Andy LV Hot Rod Build # 1196

[sethmark]

Andy, go look at my build thread. Although I’m running a different motor, I suggest that you mark it up with the corrugated and then have somebody transfer it to stainless or aluminum pipe. Additionally, try and get it out from underneath the car. It’s low enough. And just a Nick on that corrugated will leave you stranded.

[JimLev]

I received the parts to replace the corrugated hose yesterday.
This is what I originally used. I'm keeping the Gates 26502 hose.

Dscn2291.jpg

To replace the corrugated section I purchased these parts from Speedway.

Dscn4607.jpg

DSCN4608.JPG

My LS3 water pump connection is 1.5" OD
I bought this 1.5" to 1.75" adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-7812

The 3" pipe will connect to the adapter, the other end to the silicon hose, then to the 90° pipe, then to the Gates hose.
Speedway has other sizes too.

[e36m3]

Andy, go look at my build thread. Although I’m running a different motor, I suggest that you mark it up with the corrugated and then have somebody transfer it to stainless or aluminum pipe. Additionally, try and get it out from underneath the car. It’s low enough. And just a Nick on that corrugated will leave you stranded.

Hi Seth,
I looked at you build thread and like what you did with the tubing. Also I agree with not having anything hang below the frame.
thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

I received the parts to replace the corrugated hose yesterday.
This is what I originally used. I'm keeping the Gates 26502 hose.

Dscn2291.jpg

To replace the corrugated section I purchased these parts from Speedway.

Dscn4607.jpg

DSCN4608.JPG

My LS3 water pump connection is 1.5" OD
I bought this 1.5" to 1.75" adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-7812

The 3" pipe will connect to the adapter, the other end to the silicon hose, then to the 90° pipe, then to the Gates hose.
Speedway has other sizes too.

Hi Jim,
Thanks for sharing what you bought from Speedway. I had no idea you can by prebent tubes like that.
I'm going to do what you and Seth recommended, use the corrugated tubing to mock up how the lower radiator hose has to be routed and then order parts.
I might go a local muffler shop to get some thing bent up too.

Thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

Earlier this month I snapped the linkage adjuster off the passenger side lower control arm, see post 66.

FFR said the linkage adjusters were out of stock and were not sure when they'd get more in, so I figured I'd be waiting a while.

Tuesday this week I found some square tubing in my scrap metal box and thought I think that will fit on the control arm.
So I got out the mig welder and welded the broken linkage adjuster to the control arm. I'll never drive it this way, but at least now the car was back to being a roller.
I installed the control arm Friday night.
control arm welded.jpg

Sunday morning FedEx delivered these, which is great. Now I can prep the control arm and get it powder coated.
That is the way it goes sometimes...
new Control arm.jpg

thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

The directions from FFR are pretty good for the 32 grill, I only had to do a little trimming on a few parts.

Where the lower mounting tabs holes are located on the grill insert where the fiberglass overlaps.
fiberglass overlap.jpg

The end of mounting tabs I trimmed back so they would fit in further. I did this with my harbor freight electric cutoff wheel.
Grill_tab.jpg

Then I got the dremel out and had to grind a little of the overlapped fiberglass out to get the nut to fit in where it wanted to go.
I was a littel nervous about grinding into the fiberglass, but I took a little out at a time until the nut fit. Turns out it was pretty easy.
One thing this project is teaching me is patience.
Here are dremel bits I used.
dremel bit.jpg

Mounting tab installed
grill nut2.jpg

Grill on chassis
grill chassis.jpggrill drv.jpggrill pass.jpg

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

When I went to install the driveshaft with the suspension at full droop, I found that the driveshaft hit the frame.
So I followed Peter226's advice SS383-Build-33-Hot-Rod-1134 (post 150) and installed Mastercraft Limit Straps 214004 from Summit 14" eye to eye.
Simple solution and looks like it is supposed to be there, thanks Peter!

limiter.jpg

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

When I installed the T5 tranny I used the spacers that FFR sent, thinking that was the right thing to do.

When I checked the yoke to driveshaft angles with the car on the ground, the drive shaft angle was 7 degrees off from the yoke angle, not good.

After looking things over I decided to remove the spacers that FFR sent and now the tranny yoke to driveshaft angle is 2.5 degrees.
I'm running a 3 link rearend and was able to dial in the rear yoke angle easily.

My only concern is the tranny yoke to floor clearance is only 3/4". Is this enough? I plan on pinging FFR to see, but wanted the forum's thoughts too.

tranny close.jpg
tranny.jpg

Thanks,

Andy

[sread]

I'm thinking 3/4 in. should be plenty....I only have about 1/4 on mine. Those polyurethane engine and trans mounts are pretty firm and there shouldn't be that much vertical movement....




I hope.

[RoadRacer]

The directions from FFR are pretty good for the 32 grill, I only had to do a little trimming on a few parts.

Sorry for the probably dumb question, but is the 32 deluxe grill surround all 'glass?

I'd never considered/noticed that before

[cob427sc]

The radiator shell is all fiberglass.

[e36m3]

I'm thinking 3/4 in. should be plenty....I only have about 1/4 on mine. Those polyurethane engine and trans mounts are pretty firm and there shouldn't be that much vertical movement....




I hope.

Here is the feedback I got from Dave Brigham at FFR on the 3/4" clearnance of the yoke to floor.

"Yes, that should be fine, on the half body Hot Rod in the showroom you can barely get your fingers between the yoke and the floor."

Thanks,

Andy

[33fromSD]

Here is the feedback I got from Dave Brigham at FFR on the 3/4" clearnance of the yoke to floor.

"Yes, that should be fine, on the half body Hot Rod in the showroom you can barely get your fingers between the yoke and the floor."

Thanks,

Andy

Even with a really worn transmission mount you wouldn't get 3/4" of play in it....you'll be fine.

[e36m3]

I order these back in September of last year, between covid and American Racing sending CARID.com wheels with the wrong offset and then sending one wheel with damage it took until Mid March for the wheels and tire to show up. rear tires below

[e36m3]

Front tires pictures

[e36m3]

My dad had a Rupp dealership back from 1966 to 1971, reliving childhood. This is from that era. Grandson when he gets a littel older will have a blast.
He is only 15 months old, anything with wheels he is into.

[33fromSD]

My dad had a Rupp dealership back from 1966 to 1971, reliving childhood. This is from that era. Grandson when he gets a littel older will have a blast.
He is only 15 months old, anything with wheels he is into.

That pic brings back memories, had a blast buzzing around on a few of these in my much younger days ....good times, although "safety" back then was a non-thought.

[e36m3]

Catching up on the progress I've made in the last month

Here is what I did to route the lower radiator hose so it is below the chassis. I think I'll go with this, I need to make a bracket to afix the corregated pipe to the chassis just before it goes in between the coil overs.
lower rad hose.jpg
The upper radiator hose/corregated pipe will have to go, but for the first start and go kaart I'll use it.
engine.jpg
One of the heater hoses had a pinch in it, not matter what I did with the altenator location I coudl get rid of it.
heater hose pinch.jpg
To fix this I bought a Gates 28466 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose off Amazon
heater hose 90.jpg
I mounted my heater control valve on the firewall which made for pretty tight bends on the heater hose so I ordered from amazon Gates 18777 Premium Molded 180 degree Heater Hose and Dorman 47062 Heater Hose 90 degree plastic Elbow 5/8
heater hose 180.jpg

Since this work was finished I've been working on my dash layout and started running wires.

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

That pic brings back memories, had a blast buzzing around on a few of these in my much younger days ....good times, although "safety" back then was a non-thought.

Saftey is over rated, if I did something where I hurt myself it was called a life lesson. Ouch that hurt, I guess I won't do that again! Law of natural selection

[33fromSD]

Saftey is over rated, if I did something where I hurt myself it was called a life lesson. Ouch that hurt, I guess I won't do that again! Law of natural selection

When I was a kid, I totally agree, even in today's world I'm okay having my kids learning "life lessons", I'm just pointing out that in today's age you'd never be able to sell something that crewd ....we've turned into a soft society.

[j33ptj]

Catching up on the progress I've made in the last month

To fix this I bought a Gates 28466 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose off Amazon
heater hose 90.jpg

Andy

I don't know, but would an elbow on that thick heater hose not route it away from the drive-belt? This is going to flop around and get tangled??

[e36m3]

Sorry this is kind of long, but getting the fuel pressure right was kind of an adventure.

Put some gas in tank, shut off fuel pump. I added a switch under the dash in series with the inertia switch to turn the fuel pump on/off. This way when I store the car I can shut off the fuel pump and run the engine until the carb float bowl is empty.
Before first starting of engine I cranked the engine over to build oil pressure.
Cranked for a little while with no indication of oil pressure before I realized that power to the gauges is shut off with ignition key in start position.
Confirmed oil pressure.
Then turn on fuel pump and adjust the fuel regulator to 5.5psi.
Engine fired right up, Yea!!!

Adjusted the idle to 900 rpm.
The engine was idling and stalled.
If I Opened the throttle up a little, cranked the engine, and the engine would start and run, but stall at idle.
Found a large vacuum leak and fixed it. Engine builder used gray duct tape that is the same color as the intake to cover the vacuum ports on the intake I missed one piece. Glad that piece of tape didn’t sucked into engine…

Engine idles now, but then started stalling again. Then refused to start.
Walked over passenger side and noticed the fuel pressure was at zero and the pump was running.
Hmm, I thought I put a couple of gallons of gas in the tank. Then I remembered reading something in one of the 33 build threads that you need to have a few gallons in the tank for the pick up to be fully submerged in the fuel.
Dumped in the rest of the 93 octane gas I had. I had gotten 3 gallons of 93 to start the car so now all 3 gallons are in the tank.
Now have fuel pressure, but its at 7psi and I can’t turn it down any?
At this point I gave up for the night and had a couple beers.

The 5.0L engine I have is from an 86 Mustang GT. First year of the roller cam, but no spot on engine for mechanical fuel pump.
When I ordered my kit I ordered the FFR fuel pump kit, but since I’m running a carb I had to order a different bypass fuel pressure regulator from Summit. The regulator was made to handle 50 to 70 psi in the inlet and output 3 to 9 psi with the right spring in the regulator. The reg came with two springs.
After rereading the Summit fuel pressure regulator instructions, I found that the return line inner diameter had have a 3/8” to ½” inner diameter for the regulator to be able to regulate in the 3 to 9 psi range.
The FFR return line has a ¼’ ID. I thought about changing the return line to a larger one, but the return line going into the tank is only ¼” on the tank too.
I had run the nice FFR braided lines from the tank to the engine compartment.

So I bought a Holley Mighty Mite Fuel Pump that is designed to output 7psi and installed it.
Now I couldn’t get above 4psi. Time for more beer.
Ordered a Holley regulator that is designed to output 3 to 7psi.
I now have 5.5psi at the carb and a running engine!!!

But, the alternator is squealing. ☹
I’ve talked March who I bought my alternator, AC compressor, and bracket/pulley set from they’ve had me try some different tensions on the belt. The last tension I tried it threw the belt. More to come on this later.

Once I figure out how to post a video I'll post a video of the engine running.

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

I don't know, but would an elbow on that thick heater hose not route it away from the drive-belt? This is going to flop around and get tangled??

Hi J33ptj,

I do plan on changing the routing of the long heater line, forgot to mention that.

Thanks,

Andy

[FF33rod]

Quite the saga. My March pulley system was throwing a belt, finally figured out the alternator pulley was slightly off. Removed a spacer and seems fine now.

Steve

[e36m3]

March sent me a replacement alternator, I installed it and no more squealing. Good service no complaints.
I ran the engine for an ½ hour will no problems or leaks.

Here is a short video of the engine at idle https://youtu.be/1unvc6TwQVg

Thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

Trimming a body to fit is new to me so I looking for some advice.

I’ve done some trimming on the edges of the body where it slides under the firewall and I know a little more is needed.
Before I do anymore trimming I’d like to know if bottom lip of the body near the firewall should slide over the bottom of the frame?
bottom edge body.jpg

I’ve got the same situation at the back of the car too. At the back of the car with the body not able to slip over the bottom of the frame I have a 3/8” gap between the body and the frame bracket the body is bolted to. It looks like the top edge of the aluminum panel between the gas tank and the trunk will need to be trimmed to get the body bottom lip to slip over the frame. Should I trim this?
bottom edge rear.jpg
Truck bolt.jpg

Thanks,
Andy

[33fromSD]

Trimming a body to fit is new to me so I looking for some advice.

I’ve done some trimming on the edges of the body where it slides under the firewall and I know a little more is needed.
Before I do anymore trimming I’d like to know if bottom lip of the body near the firewall should slide over the bottom of the frame?
bottom edge body.jpg

I’ve got the same situation at the back of the car too. At the back of the car with the body not able to slip over the bottom of the frame I have a 3/8” gap between the body and the frame bracket the body is bolted to. It looks like the top edge of the aluminum panel between the gas tank and the trunk will need to be trimmed to get the body bottom lip to slip over the frame. Should I trim this?
bottom edge rear.jpg
Truck bolt.jpg

Thanks,
Andy

On the front, my body is even with the bottom frame, I could not go lower since it's limited by the lip on the body on top where the fire wall sits in.

On the back, I had the same as you're showing but added spacers between the flang and the body. It's been a while since I did mine but I believe the manual called for spacers, I'd have to check to be sure.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Following up on my comment, yes the manual calls for a spacer (I believe it's nylon) between the body and the bolt flang on the frame.

Jim

fullsizeoutput_57.jpeg

[FF33rod]

Fantastic that March replaced your alternator. I didn't get the accessory drive system direct from them, it was through the vendor that I got the rest of the engine parts. Alternator blew up shortly after getting everything together a year later and they wouldn't do anything for me.

Fit at the front might be different for your gen 2 vs my gen 1 but the only thing most have to trim is a very small amount on the side where it meets up with the firewall and chassis tubes, nothing at the bottom. As Jim pointed out, kit has spacers for body attachment to the frame at the rear above the wheels.

Steve

[e36m3]

Jim thanks for the feedback.

Andy

[e36m3]

Fantastic that March replaced your alternator. I didn't get the accessory drive system direct from them, it was through the vendor that I got the rest of the engine parts. Alternator blew up shortly after getting everything together a year later and they wouldn't do anything for me.

Fit at the front might be different for your gen 2 vs my gen 1 but the only thing most have to trim is a very small amount on the side where it meets up with the firewall and chassis tubes, nothing at the bottom. As Jim pointed out, kit has spacers for body attachment to the frame at the rear above the wheels.

Steve

Hi Steve,
On the alternator I called them about a 1 week before my 1 year warranty from purchase date ran out. Got lucky on that one
I still need to trim a little more around the body flange near the chassis tube.
Thanks for the feedback.
Andy

[e36m3]

It been a few weeks since I lasted worked on the Hot Rod, but I did get some time in the garage yesterday to mount the guages and lights in the my dash panel.
A guy I work with has an NC controlled plasma cutter so I drew up what I wanted the dash panel to look like. He cut it out of 1/16 cold rolled steel.
Dash.jpg

The red light is an idiot light for oil pressure. A couple of years ago a red idiot light saved the engine on my M3 at an open track day. I saw the light flash while going through a corner.
Yellow light is overheating idoit light, comes on at 200F or 210F.
Center push buttom is 4 way flasher.
Still looking for a different switch AC toggle switch.

Hopefully I'll get all the wife's spring honey do list done shortly and can start wiring the dash, the list seems to keep growing...

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

Hard to believe it has been a couple of months since I last posted, summer went by too fast.
Over the course of the summer I worked on wiring when I had a some free time, but I didn't spend to much time in the barn.

The wiring is done. I added cruise control to the car, I'll post more on that later.
The only issue I ran into with the wiring was one of the front headlight directionals worked at first and them stopped working.

I verified that I’ve had 12V on the red wire and the green wire was getting the flashing 12V signal. The DRL lights up.
I was able to switch headlamps and the problem followed the headlamp.

I sent [email protected] an email explaing the problem. Same day I got response back from Dan Golub saying they would send me out a new headlamp. The new headlamps arrived last week. Took about 2 weeks for them to show up.

Over Labor day weekend I did a little more work on the car and realized I completely forgot about adding in wires for the power windows. Hence the sort of comment...

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

Once the wiring was finished and I verified the gauges were working it was go karting time!

Things I learned.
• Brakes barely stops the chassis. Pedal is firm, but I think there is still air in the lines.
• The clutch pedal effort is way too high. I called Mike Forte planning on buying a hydraulic kit to replace the cable. Mike talked me into buying https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ffort-reducer/. It will be here this weekend so I try it out. I'm running a Centerforce2 clutch.
• Tires rub on the upper A arm at full lock. Ride height, toe, and etc all have to be set yet. Are there steering limiters avaiable?
• Carb needs tuning. All I’ve done is set the idle speed.

Using a BMW rim for a seat could be improved...
One of our older neighbors threated to call the sheriff. She thinks she is the neighborhood watch. I didn’t even run over 2K rpms… 1st time I met her, amazing how these cars bring peopel together

Here is a couple of links to video of the 1st run.
https://youtu.be/Wzh0BfweKF8
https://youtu.be/ublQmwDGjqg
https://youtu.be/AGnTAXUPSYE

[33fromSD]

Seems like a lifetime-ago that I go-karted mine but it was only last November, awesome feeling.

On the clutch, I was glad I went with Mike Forte hydraulic slave cylinder, it was easy to install and the clutch pedal feel is smooth and easy to push in. My biggest fear with the cable wasn't so much the force to push it in (reminded me a lot of my 65 mustang with the mechanical linkage for the 3 speed), it was more on reading various forums about cable life seemed pretty short, that and aesthetic of the clutch cable in the engine bay.

I have one of those neighbors too, He had a fit when I go-karted mine, was going to call the police. I have a 2015 Challenger Scat Pack with the 6.4L Hemi and it's loud and if I go to start that thing before 7:30 AM, he is on my case about wanting to call the police for noise ordinance violations. He also goes around the neighbor hood with a tape measure and measures how far people are parked from the curb and if they are farther than 10 inches away he calls the police and reports them. I feel sorry for the police, they must cringe how often he calls.

You can order steering limiters for the rack but I wouldn't worry about it too much quite honestly until you do the final ride height setting and alignment.

Great job, always a good feeling to hit a mile stone.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Sounds awesome by the way!!

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Once the wiring was finished and I verified the gauges were working it was go karting time!

Things I learned.
• Brakes barely stops the chassis. Pedal is firm, but I think there is still air in the lines.
• The clutch pedal effort is way too high. I called Mike Forte planning on buying a hydraulic kit to replace the cable. Mike talked me into buying https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ffort-reducer/. It will be here this weekend so I try it out. I'm running a Centerforce2 clutch.
• Tires rub on the upper A arm at full lock. Ride height, toe, and etc all have to be set yet. Are there steering limiters avaiable?
• Carb needs tuning. All I’ve done is set the idle speed.

Using a BMW rim for a seat could be improved...
One of our older neighbors threated to call the sheriff. She thinks she is the neighborhood watch. I didn’t even run over 2K rpms… 1st time I met her, amazing how these cars bring peopel together

Here is a couple of links to video of the 1st run.
https://youtu.be/Wzh0BfweKF8
https://youtu.be/ublQmwDGjqg
https://youtu.be/AGnTAXUPSYE

As Jim says, ignore the tire rubbing thing for now.. do a quick rough alignment or don't use full lock

As for the neighbor.. omg. Why are some people so angry all the time??!! I'm lucky to get nothing but thumbs up from my neighbors.

[FF33rod]

Sounds great!
AND... I have one of those neighbors too. Started the engine for the first time in the middle of a Sunday afternoon, so not early or late. Neighbor a few houses down and across the lane shows up around the corner of the garage yelling at me. Never met him before, didn't introduce himself, didn't comment on the car, just angrily asked if I knew it was a residential neighborhood. I told him obviously as I live there upon which he turned and walked away. Now ever time he passes the garage he revs the snot out of his ancient Datsun pickup rattle can.... Interestingly, chatting with other neighbors, no one seems to have ever actually met him. LOL.

Steve

[cob427sc]

Love the temp seat! The brakes could have some air but usually you will have a soft pedal with air in the lines. I experienced the same problem with the brakes not wanting to stop until I re-adjusted the master cylinder bias bar. This made a huge difference with the final adjustment favoring the front brakes by a lot. Now the car will stop and with some really heavy foot will lock all wheels. I do wish there was an easy way to add power brakes.

[JimLev]

Andy, what did you use for cruise control?
I’ve been thinking about getting the Dakota Digital unit.