Inner CV boot wants to slip off?

[beeman]

What did I do wrong? The inner boot wants to slip off even with just rotating the axle...
Thanks!
Dave

[Bob Cowan]

You put the clamp in the wrong spot. The edge of the clamp should be right up against the ridge in the rubber.

[beeman]

Thanks, it seemed like it wanted to go there, I'll adjust it. Do I need to completely getting the grease off that part of the boot and flange or is that not a big deal?

Is it OK if I put the vss ring on the driver's side axle or does it have to be on the passenger side?

[Bob Cowan]

It's not a big deal. If you take a look at the metal flange, you'll see that a bubble flare right under where your clamp is. By moving the clamp to the edge, you'll get it past that flare, and it will hold in place.

As for the vss ring, I have no idea.

[KGTM]

Thanks, it seemed like it wanted to go there, I'll adjust it. Do I need to completely getting the grease off that part of the boot and flange or is that not a big deal?

Is it OK if I put the vss ring on the driver's side axle or does it have to be on the passenger side?

Why are you doing VSS ring? should just use the sensor on wheel hub. that is what I use and works fine.

[beeman]

I have the C5 PCM, it uses a sensor on the transmission that FFR has you incorporate with a FFR provided ring on the inner axle... Do I have another option that my PCM can interpret?

[KGTM]

I thought you are using crate engine and its ECU controller, not sure about C5 PCM, if 3 wire the most likely hall sensor and wheel hub sensor will not work, but if two wires then most likely reluctance type then it could work.

Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Beeman,

I had the same issue with my G96 and found these CV joint caps to replace the Porsche caps that had the same problem. The one on the left is the original and the one on the right is the one with a lip to help boot stay. They work much better.

IMG_0191.jpg

[jamesfr58]

Dang, forgot to post where I got them if interested. A link to the item is posted below, I got them from Parts Geek and they work great no more slipping off.

https://www.partsgeek.com/kxlj1dz-po...=Ad+group+%231

[beeman]

Appreciate it, James, I may just order those. Link isn't working for me, do you have a part #? I'll probably get some different band clamps too, the Porsche ones don't seem as strong as the GM ones..

[jamesfr58]

Beeman

Here is the part number: W0133-2746870 and sorry the link did not work. Attached is screen grab from PartsGeek showing the part and part number

CV Flange.JPG

[jamesfr58]

Dave

I did have the same issue and it would slip off just rotating the tires by hand. I tried many time to get it to stay but to no avail, so went to searching the net to find a better way or part that would allow the boot to stay on the flange and the part above is what I finally found after a lot of searching. I works well with the lip that allows the clamp to tighten on the other side and keeps the clamp from slipping off. I also ordered the thin CV clamps that are like hose clamps and tighten with worm gear screw they worked better as well. Can't remember if I got them from PartsGeek, Pelican Parts (Porsche parts supplier) or somewhere else but they are thin like the clamps you crimp of but made as a replacement for the crimped one on the Porsche transaxle. I was on the web site looking it up again and put a new link below, hope it works!

https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ss...46870&x=16&y=4

[crash]

We run these on the race track...

http://myraceshop.com/930_CVs.html

There is no picture, but the "One Piece GKN Design" is a preassembled boot and flange like what you are showing there. We have had very few issues and none since we added a double round of safety wire and also recrimped the clamp before final assembly.

One other thing, we don't attach the small end of the boot to the shaft. We actually put a small amount of lube on there and use no clamp. This allows the small end of the boot to "float" and therefore not help in trying to pull the boot off the flange.

[rolfer]

i had the same issue, this is what i used: A1C5AF52-C3FB-432F-B44B-CC42092B1AF4.jpg

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1472 they are the more expensive ones but i did not want them coming off again.

[beeman]

I appreciate all the input!
Ordered Mike's option from myraceshop. Glad to hear I'm not the only one who couldn't make the Porsche boots work...

[Bob Cowan]

One other thing, we don't attach the small end of the boot to the shaft. We actually put a small amount of lube on there and use no clamp. This allows the small end of the boot to "float" and therefore not help in trying to pull the boot off the flange.

I do this also. Otherwise it gets twisted up. Not sure why that happens.

Also, I put 1-2 heavy duty zip ties in the middle of the boot. It gives it more high speed stability, and helps prevent tearing.

Until I figured out these two tricks, I went through a few boots.

[crash]

I do this also. Otherwise it gets twisted up. Not sure why that happens.

Also, I put 1-2 heavy duty zip ties in the middle of the boot. It gives it more high speed stability, and helps prevent tearing.

Until I figured out these two tricks, I went through a few boots.

We did have some issues with boots tearing early on, but once we wrapped the exhaust with Lava Wrap and put an extra heat shield in the area of the CVs, we have had no further issues with what appeared to be the boots "ballooning". I would think putting the zip tie on there might introduce a another stress point of potential failure where the clip is? We do not do as you do, but it does make sense...just like what is done with boosted flexible hoses on turbo systems.

I might mention that we also vent the boots. We tried a number of ways to do this. We used the red little squirter tubes from WD-40 stuffed under the outer boot area for awhile, but now I just drill a vent hole in the boots were there is already an indentation to suggest this on these new boots. I don't think this is necessary for a street driven car, but we do vent our boots on the race car.

[beeman]

Got my inner CV boots from Crash/myraceshop. Everyone do yourself a favor and get these before you assemble your axles, saves pain and mess of inevitably swapping them in. 55mm bolts without the VSS tone ring gives 2-3 threads through the inner flange. Mike provides the flange doubler (replaces the dog bones). On the driver's side, the vss ring acts as a flange doubler, with the 55mm bolts, I have 1.5 threads through the inner flange. Didn't use the 60mm bolts I bought.

Bolts from McMaster Carr



Mike's boot on top, comes pre-assembled to his flange.



Cleaned out the bolt holes and flange threads with degreaser, dab of blue Loctite, torque spec is 60 ft-lb, Torque Seal seals the deal.

[Shoeless]

Just the thought of breaking mine apart and deal with that greasy mess gives me anxiety LOL. Glad you got that sorted out AND glad I had similar one piece boot flanges to start with.

[MTSCustoms]

I had a lot of trouble with those boots. The trick is to really clean the inside of the boot and the metal ring it clamps to right before you clamp it. If there is any grease it will just slip right off as you tighten it,