Anyone have any pics of what they worked up for a clutch safety switch?
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Anyone have any pics of what they worked up for a clutch safety switch?
Really did not find a good solution, this was open for me a long time as Iwas adding this after finish, but here is a picture, a micro switch below my clutch stop and works well.20200620_182523.jpg
Mostafa
I used the Mustang clutch switch that deactivates the cruise control, had a couple used ones laying around. Looks like it's out of production though?
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9837A/Clutc...-Mustang-82-95
I also looked at the 02 Camaro clutch switch, seems like it would be simple to incorporate just above or below to the pedal stop.
Component #29 here
Last edited by beeman; 06-21-2020 at 07:51 AM.
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
I have no idea what pedal box the GTM uses, but I see a willwood pedal in that pic. I assume you've seen how it works on the 33? There's a small bracket drilled and riveted to the box. The switch looks a little different nowadays with 2 open-when-pressed and 2 closed-when-pressed pins coming from switch, but concept is the same.
clutch-switch1.png clutch-switch2.png
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Thanks for all the quick replies guys!! Definitely getting the brain juices flowing to figure this out. Keep the ideas or pics coming if you have them.
I used GM part # 21021083 which is a combination clutch/ignition safety switch and a travel stop. I fabricated a bracket for it that allows for adjustment for the travel stop. IMG_5066.JPGIMG_5096.JPG
dlud,
Awesome, thanks for the details and photos!!!
Yea I was wondering how that switch mounted. Now I know, but looks like nobody has one other than eBay and it’s twice what everyone else has it listed for.
I bought mine off Ebay for about $25. Maybe check here: https://www.gmpartsoutlet.net/oem-pa...witch-21021083
I was looking at the Borg Warner switch for $7.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...170/3999122-p?
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
I've never had one on any car I've built and have never missed having one.
I agree sort of with you, the only reason I did it was due to how my wring works is as there is no physical direct switch and was more for redundancy than protection for starting the car in gear.
Mostafa
We'll all be stranded in the puddle, and you'll be driving out of it with your starter
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
Interesting to hear some have simply bypassed this and are not using it. I guess its not as big of a deal as I thought?
I can picture many bad things happening without one...
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
So....someone is used to driving an automatic, gets in and just turns the key with someone standing in front of or behind the car...
Especially with a push button starter...
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
That's my thought, although I don't plan on really letting anyone drive my GTM. I'm even worried about a valet somewhere although I'll pay what ever they want to be one of those guys that's car is right out front.
I just called up my buddy about 30 minutes away, who bought a completed GTM, to see what his situation is. He let me know that for him he has to have his foot on the break to disengage his security system to start his. Sounds like they wired in a ground signal along with his brake light switch on his GTM. With this at least you have to have your foot on the brake to start it.
I know modern cars with push button start you have to have your foot on the brake to start it.
Just make sure you are in neutral before starting I guess.
For me, it's instinctual, if it's a manual car the clutch gets pressed before starting. I've never encountered a manual car that didn't require the clutch pedal fully depressed to start.
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
Personally, I would prefer a neutral switch on the gearbox as this would then be a safety for a remote start setup. I have driven quite a few stick shift vehicles in my life and my 2005 pickup is the only one I can recall having the clutch safety switch. I think it is more a CYA thing for the manufacturer than anything.
I actually use the starter in gear method of moving the race car quite a bit. I would not like not being able to do that and having another switch in the system is just another thing to go bad, electrically.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Last edited by beeman; 06-24-2020 at 09:33 PM.
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
I fabbed up a simple bracket to hold two switches on the Wilwood pedal box. One for clutch bottom (safety switch) and another for clutch top (cruise control).
The switches are readily available and have connectors for normally open or normally closed operation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I know this is a bit old but I used Willwood pressure switches directly off the master cylinders
20190712_161407.jpg
Couple of thoughts here... First is that it looks like those switches are actually two switches in one unit so you should be able to do what you need with just one switch unit instead of two. Second is that you likely need to make accomodations for travel changes as the clutch wears. My thought would be to use a levered, rollered type arrangement so that the pedal travel is never limited by the switch.