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Thread: The Bolton Build - 818C

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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Man, that shifter and bell crank....noice.
    I took a detour on my 818 that started with a 3d printer and has resulted in a cnc router of my own just because I want to make some of my own parts. I'm not too proud to say that I have trouble conceptualizing parts to do complicated things like this, but with all those fantastic pictures you took, I have a fighting chance. I think that makes your work DOUBLE impressive. I'm also really encouraged that you managed to shorten your cables. Well done all around!

  2. #2
    Thinker of thoughts FFRWRX's Avatar
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    The power windows....working!

    This has been a huge challenge.

    I had the drivers side window working fairly well; not perfect, but not bad. So I decided to move on to the passenger side as that should be easy with everything I've leaned. Huh!

    I had the basic frame done in a few hours and spent the next 6 days cutting/welding/bending/correcting...not easy at all. But I did learn more about how all this works. The main thing was that with the drivers side window I had the glass supported at the front and rear by tracks in the door, and the center of the glass by the power window motor assembly. That is too many supports fighting with each other. And as I said previously, because of the shape of the glass, the front support can't really be close fitting to the glass. So after days of trying to get the passenger side to work, I realized what the issue was. I cut out most of the front channel that is in the door to leave the glass supported by the rear channel and the center regulator (the motor assembly). It isn't perfect, but it works pretty well now. And the glass is nicely supported when up, down, and anywhere else in the travel.

    Some tips for those that might want to try this. First thing....don't! Sort of kidding, but it is really frustrating when you realize that the shape of the glass is not designed to let the window go up and down properly. May sound strange but you'll find that out when you put some time into the windows, whether modifying them or not.

    From the video, you'll see some of these details. The front of the glass comes out of the track when the window moves down. This works well since there are still 2 points of support. I also made the bottom of that track widen out so the glass finds its way back into it when on the way up. At the rear you'll see the top of the glass comes out of that track when the window moves down. I don't think the drivers side was doing that, but there is definitely a difference between the 2 sides. On the passenger side the window can go all the way down, so obviously the track is a different shape. The window moving out of the track at the top may be fixable with adjusting the regulator angle and glass support, but it isn't too much of a concern since it does work well, and it is still well supported by the glass below that point.

    One other thing you'll see. The area of the door skin where the rubber strip contacts the glass looks all messed up. That's because it is. I cut that area out a bit too much and had to put some of the fibreglass back in. I'll smooth it down later. The tracks are lined with a felt-like material that is meant for this purpose. I bought a wide roll of it and glued it in place.

    I haven't put the seal around the roof/door opening yet. When it is in place it will seal against the new window channel. And I bought stuff made for a 1/4" thick edge.

    So now I'll go back to the drivers side and see if I can apply what I learned on the passenger side and get it working a bit better.

    I've probably forgotten some details, so feel free to ask if you think you want to try this modification.

    The video:



    Rick

  3. #3
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Looking good!
    IMO, add body work to the front edge of the window track to blend in the recess of the A-pillar to the door skin (I did on mine), it will look so much better.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  4. #4
    Thinker of thoughts FFRWRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Looking good!
    IMO, add body work to the front edge of the window track to blend in the recess of the A-pillar to the door skin (I did on mine), it will look so much better.
    I saw what you did with yours. Very nice! When watching my window go up and down I did see that the channel I made is fairly well contained within the moulding along the roof, but that area doesn't look right (the triangle at the bottom of the A-pillar is recessed in a bit much).

    IMG_2368.jpg

    I was going to mount the mirror somewhere else and reduce the gap between the A-pillar and the top of the door, but then decided not to. I'll probably make a new mirror mount piece that moves the mirror rearward a little; with that triangle area and the window channel the mirror might be blocked a little from the driver. I was thinking of making a piece to build up the triangle, but not have it attached to the door like you did. Maybe a 3D printed or CNC'd aluminum piece with a logo or something on it? Maybe the new mirror mount piece will extend the full length of that space and help seal it.

    I took a look at what my drivers side window needs to get it working better. Then went back in the house.

    Rick

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