EdwardB’s 35 Hot Rod Truck Build

[WIS89]

Paul-

Like many others, I look forward to watching another great build! I put my money on an F-9, but this should be exciting too.

Maybe the F-9 will be next, because I do think you do have an addiction; one from which we all benefit!!

Thanks for doing what you do Paul!

Regards,

Steve

[DadofThree]

Oh Boy! I'm going to start saving my money so I can buy that coupe of yours in 2023

Looking forward to following the Truck build!

[hugo-k]

I am planning building a -35 Pick up myself. Finished my Mk4 early spring this year.
Maybe silly question.
Is it possible to install a Trailer hitch on the chassis?
The tow load will be only 600-700lbs.

[edwardb]

I am planning building a -35 Pick up myself. Finished my Mk4 early spring this year.
Maybe silly question.
Is it possible to install a Trailer hitch on the chassis?
The tow load will be only 600-700lbs.

A local buddy built a '33 Hot Rod and modified the chassis to add a trailer hitch for a small trailer. Along the lines of what you're describing. But I don't know any specifics, and definitely don't know anything for the truck. I suspect the answer is yes if done properly. Especially for something that light. But I can't say based on any direct knowledge or experience. Sorry.

[edwardb]

Received word yesterday that my 4L65E automatic transmission was done. So road trip today to GearStar Performance Transmission in Akron, OH to pick it up. They were super friendly and gave me a brief tour of their place before loading into the back of our SUV. I know little/nothing about the internals of transmissions in general and especially automatics. And can't say I know too much more after the visit. But was a clean shop and seem to do nice work. They have two dynos and run them for 100 miles before delivery. Came highly recommended with good reviews. Which is why I picked them. They are super busy with a lot of work in the queue. I think I was a bit lucky to get mine in just a few weeks. It's their GM 4L65E Performance Transmission Level 3 rated at 500 HP and up to 500 ft lbs torque and has a 36 mo/36,000 mile warranty. Came with the proper torque converter, cooler, fluid, and generally looks great. All up approaching 200 lbs, so it's a chunk. Questioned the 4L60E marking on the case, but apparently the 4L65E is the same case with different internals, converter, etc. Set up for my LS3 and the FF recommended torque converter stall speed of 3500 RPM.

[wareaglescott]

Looks like a nice unit Paul. That is great they are pretty close to you and you were able to get a shop tour. Do you know if that fits right in the chassis or do you have to make some modifications to use and automatic?

[edwardb]

Looks like a nice unit Paul. That is great they are pretty close to you and you were able to get a shop tour. Do you know if that fits right in the chassis or do you have to make some modifications to use and automatic?

This is the specific transmission that Factory Five recommends with the LS engine setup. So I'm hoping little/no mods for it to mount up and fit. Find out soon enough.

[edwardb]

Today I assembled the 4L65E automatic to the LS3. First time working with any of this stuff, including bolting a torque converter to a flex plate. But carefully followed the instructions from Gearstar, plus a few Google searches, and it’s all together. Was especially easy because Gearstar already installed the torque converter, along with a temporary wood piece to hold it back in the right location. That’s apparently one of the bigger mistakes people make, e.g. not getting it pushed all the way in place. Or push it in without being aligned properly. Didn’t have to worry about either. Hopefully not to come apart again. Ready to drop into the chassis when it arrives and starting fitting everything around it. The transmission is heavy and not easy to handle when working by yourself. I put the LS3 back on the crate base it was delivered on and it's going to stay there for now. Then used my shop crane to lift the transmission and the leveler to line it up. When together pretty easily. Torqued all the mounting and flex plate bolts and should be good to go. And just in case someone thinks I missed a mounting bolt, that open hole in the bell housing doesn't have a matching threaded hole in the block. The GM instructions say eight bolts required and I have all eight installed and accounted for. Also as can be seen in these pictures, I removed the stock exhaust headers and taped over the openings. My kit order includes new headers.









Couple other updates. Decided to go with the HGM transmission controller. Was recommended by Gearstar and has a lot of positive reviews and feedback. Plus, little over half the cost of the GM/Chevrolet controller. Made the decision pretty easy. The GM controller requires a laptop. This uses an app on your phone and Bluetooth. Doesn’t matter either way for me, but kind of a cool feature. More wires to deal with when the time comes. I hooked it up and put some power on it. It’s alive and working as it should for now.



Also decided to go with the Lokar Sport Shifter. Specifically, part number ES4L60EFMP. Provides the usual shifting via a cable. But also has a sport mode where you can manually shift up and down by bumping the shifter. Same idea as a paddle shifter without the added complication. Only minor issue I had was the HGM controller didn’t have the necessary wires for the sport mode switches and nothing about it in the instructions. I was panicking a bit thinking it didn’t support. But a quick lifeline to HGM and they had the exact wires and instructions I needed to add them. A little surgery to add them into the harness, but very straightforward and ready to go. The Lokar shifter also has a park and neutral safety switch, so will be able to wire that into the build as well. Not a cheap piece, like most Lokar products, but appears to be very well made and high quality.



Finally, Gearstar sent me a video on my transmission on their dyno for final testing. Kind of interesting. Have done a little poking around learning what’s inside these things and how they work. Quite complex and this is a simple one by today’s standards.

https://youtu.be/OwE1VOTdtuc

That’s it. Pretty much running out of things to do and my completion date is still 7 weeks away. I guess that means more home projects for now. Plus driving the Coupe as long as the weather allows. Turned 1,700 miles today. Love it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey, you missed a bolt

Looking good as usual

Jeff

[Shannon4570]

Paul -

I have followed all your builds with great interest. My son and I have recently completed a build of a 1969 Camaro with the LS3 and I think you are going to love it.

https://www.camaros.net/threads/tims...getter.459263/

We opted for the one step up from yours (495 HP and 495 TQ) and it's a beast. Very simple comment but can save you some heart ache. When moving it around, test mounting etc. be very aware of the vacuum port on the back of the manifold. You will most likely use this for brakes but it can be snapped off in the blink of an eye. Good luck with your build and look forward to watching.

[edwardb]

Paul -

I have followed all your builds with great interest. My son and I have recently completed a build of a 1969 Camaro with the LS3 and I think you are going to love it.

https://www.camaros.net/threads/tims...getter.459263/

We opted for the one step up from yours (495 HP and 495 TQ) and it's a beast. Very simple comment but can save you some heart ache. When moving it around, test mounting etc. be very aware of the vacuum port on the back of the manifold. You will most likely use this for brakes but it can be snapped off in the blink of an eye. Good luck with your build and look forward to watching.

Thanks for your post and comments. I browsed through your Camero build thread. Very cool! Awesome work there. I'm pretty sure the 430 HP LS3 I chose will be plenty for how I'm planning to use the truck. But as I understand, the only difference between mine and the 495 HP version is the cam. So that would be an easy enough swap if I wanted some quick HP. But really don't expect will be doing so. Thanks for the tip on the vacuum port. I have the transmission mounted and for these builds typically go in together. So it's well protected. But I'll keep an eye on it. I wouldn't mind power brakes. Would fit the theme of this build. But I doubt there's room for the vacuum booster. So chances are that port will be covered and not used.

Speaking of the build -- the truck is scheduled for completion tomorrow. I suspect it's done now. I've requested a pic and should receive any time. Waiting for Stewart to provide pickup and delivery dates. Hopefully will be my Christmas present. And hopefully an early one! I've also ordered the wheels and will show those when received. Should be soon. Wrapping up home projects and winterization and a few projects on the Coupe. I'm ready to get started on the truck.

[progmgr1]

I wouldn't mind power brakes. Would fit the theme of this build. But I doubt there's room for the vacuum booster. So chances are that port will be covered and not used.

Paul - I tried to cram the Whitby power brake system https://www.whitbymotorcars.com/prod...-kit-complete/ into my Hot Rod, but the Coyote just takes up too much space. Your results may differ though, with the smaller LS engine. I suggest you call Jeff Collins at (336) 389-0904 to verify that his system will fit. Whitby has apparently installed the system in several Hot Rods with SBC or LS engines, just not with the Coyote.

I just bought a booster/MC assembly from Summit that has a 7" dia. booster and am now trying to shoehorn it into the Hot Rod. The pumpkin fits fine, but the MC is a full size GM style unit with built-in reservoirs and the brake lines interfere with the engine side covers. I'll probably have to tilt it a little to fit properly. I also have to fab a bell-crank type assembly to convert the pedal motion to the correct stroke. Of course, you avoid all these issues if you can make the Whitby system work in your truck.

Have fun with the new build! I look forward to watching your progress. Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

Last Saturday, 12/5/2020, was my production completion date at Factory Five. Final payment completed the week before. Today I received this picture of the truck in the rack waiting to be picked up. Stewart is scheduled to do just that next week, and they're estimating to be at my place on Saturday, 12/20/2020. So a nice Christmas present! Received word my Wilwood brake package is on the way. No word yet on the Moser axle, but it's ordered. Should be hearing any day about my wheels. Lots of moving parts to one of these projects. But most of you know that already. I've tinkered with the Coupe about as much as I want (or need) to. Finished the last of my promised home projects. So let's get things going. Next post will hopefully be with a big semi in front of our house and the truck in the garage shop.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Fun stuff!

Jeff

[ydousurf]

Awesome Paul! I'm sure the entire forum will monitoring the progress all along the way. I see you've gone with the chassis as (naked) bare metal per your build plans, any decision yet on the color? Anyway all the best, not that you will need it. Looking forward to another top-notch build coming from the edwardb garage!

Dj

[edwardb]

Awesome Paul! I'm sure the entire forum will monitoring the progress all along the way. I see you've gone with the chassis as (naked) bare metal per your build plans, any decision yet on the color? Anyway all the best, not that you will need it. Looking forward to another top-notch build coming from the edwardb garage!

Dj

Thanks! No decision on the powder coat color yet. Or the body color. For some reason many think it could be red. We'll see. But lots of "help" on the home front to be something different.

[FFinisher]

You are going to love the LS. Everyone knows How I feel about the Coyote. But when I build my truck it will be an LS. I am building one now for a customer, have built two other pickups with the LS, so nice and compact.

[nuhale]

If you're going Chevy does that mean this one will be BLUE???

Looking forward to following your build!

[GoDadGo]

Thanks! No decision on the powder coat color yet. Or the body color. For some reason many think it could be red. We'll see. But lots of "help" on the home front to be something different.

Without a doubt, this will be one of the finest trucks upon completion.
Whatever color you choose, I'm sure it will be elegant and refined.

[P100DHG]

I'm late to this party. Oh man Paul how exciting! Hotrods leave endless possibilities of customization. How are you imagining your design?

I think one thing that will make it stand out is some custom coatings on your suspension components and brakes. Then tie those elements throughout the car. Any ideas with this?

One of the best parts of an LS is how clean you can get the wiring and plumbing. Also so many options for intake and rocker/coil covers. Vintage look, modern look... So many choices.

Obviously these things develop with time and then there is how far does one take it pushing the design, then editing down ideas, or even how much to reveal about your design decisions up front or let your audience sit on the edge of their seat waiting for the next update, etc. I know I will be.

Great part about any hot rod is it's uniqueness and the details. Have fun and good luck!

[edwardb]

Oh man Paul how exciting. Hotrods leave endless possibilities of customization. How are you imagining your design?

I think one thing that will make it stand out is some custom coatings on your suspension components and brakes. Then tie those elements throughout the car. Any ideas with this?

One of the best parts of an LS is how clean you can get the wiring and plumbing. Also so many options for intake and rocker/coil covers. Vintage look, modern look... So many choices.

Obviously these things develop with time and then there is how far does one take it pushing the design, then editing down ideas, or even how much to reveal about your design decisions up front or let your audience sit on the edge of their seat waiting for the next update, etc. I know I will be.

Great part about any hot rod is it's uniqueness and the details. Have fun and good luck!

Thanks for the comments and encouragement. I have lots of ideas but nothing firmed up yet. Expect to start making some decisions once it gets here and start mocking things up. Speaking of that -- my delivery is delayed due to weather and a situation with the driver. Right now my truck is in the Stewart trailer and it's stopped at the first delivery in NH. Hopefully will be here mid next week. Stewart has been doing a good job keeping me informed. In the meantime, my Moser axle arrived. Not my first solid axle build but my first using one from Moser. Just from appearances, it's very nice. Today I received my Wilwood brakes. So have some parts to play with while waiting for the full kit delivery.

[nelsond003]

Planning my next build now, trying to start in the March timeframe. My MKIV was super fun, and my plan was to build the coupe next, but that truck is calling my name. Hopefully you can give me some advise on which one was "funner" to do. Cheers, Donny

[rponfick]

Your kit should be arriving soon. Anxious to see how you tackle the hardest part of the assembly (in my opinion), the infamous door hinge fitting. I have been letting mine sit for 6 months hoping it would fix itself, and the arrival of a C8 didn't help.
Looking forward to your build.
Ralph

[edwardb]

Planning my next build now, trying to start in the March timeframe. My MKIV was super fun, and my plan was to build the coupe next, but that truck is calling my name. Hopefully you can give me some advise on which one was "funner" to do. Cheers, Donny

Loved our Roadsters. Love the Coupe even more. But a more challenging build. Way too early to say how the truck compares. Give me a year or two.

Your kit should be arriving soon. Anxious to see how you tackle the hardest part of the assembly (in my opinion), the infamous door hinge fitting. I have been letting mine sit for 6 months hoping it would fix itself, and the arrival of a C8 didn't help.
Looking forward to your build.
Ralph

I hope it's arriving soon!! Still waiting for Stewart to overcome some issues. It's on the road somewhere. I've seen and read about those door hinges. Every build has some challenges. We'll see what happens.

[edwardb]

Well, I said the next post would be pictures of the delivery. Unfortunately, not. Between the big snow in the east, a driver issue of some kind, plus Christmas, didn't happen. Latest promise is next week. Tuesday or Wednesday. Seems more likely but we'll see once it's in my garage. Meanwhile I'll post another brief update since I seem to have a little time on my hands.

As mentioned before, my rear axle arrived from Moser. Got it out of the coffin-like crate it came in and resting on some wheel dollies. Didn't come with any instructions. Only very general information and a tag that said no lube inside. Searched the forum and elsewhere for lube recommendations and seemed to be all over the place. Different weights, yes/no on synthetic, yes/no on friction modifier, etc. So went right to the source and sent a message to Moser. Received an answer in about an hour. Good service. Their recommendation? Non-synthetic 80W-90 gear oil. 2.5 - 3 quarts of total fluid. 3 - 4 ounces of Ford XL-3 friction modifier. Fill process: Through plug hole on the side of the rear end. Fill to hole. Specifically said they use Lucas non-synthetic 80W-90 Heavy Duty Gear Oil. So that's what I'm going with. Easy find on the Lucas gear oil. Not so much on the friction modifier. So ordered some on Amazon. Shipped immediately, but now in the USPS Christmas package black hole. Will get here eventually. No sweat for now obviously.

My brakes also arrived from Wilwood. The fronts are the exact 6-piston setup I have on the Coupe and also had on the 20th Anniversary Roadster. The rears are similar to the single piston ones I had on the #7750 Roadster. But with the brackets provided, and the matching mount points on the axle, slightly different orientation. Good news is the top bleeder is pointing up. So don't have to take the caliper off to bleed like on #7750. That was strange (and a pain). Other than the endless cautionary and legal notices included in the Wilwood boxes (their lawyers must get paid a lot...) their instructions are excellent. Just need to read them closely. I assembled the rear brakes and wrestled too long with the spacing of the calipers to the rotors. I was installing with the main mounting bracket step toward the inside as shown in the diagram. Just didn't work. Then found the fine print that said for some offsets (2.50 vs. 2.61) it's necessary to flip the bracket around and switch sides so the step is on the outside. That did it and everything fit perfectly with the shims provided. I didn't measure it, but these axles must be the 2.50 offset. So the rear axle with brakes is ready to install. Obviously can't assemble the front brakes that far. But did bolt the rotors to the hats, did the 155 inch-pound tightening on the mounting screws with a touch of red Loctite. Then did the safety wires. Need to do that more often than every couple years. Took a few practice pairs to get the hang of it again. Second assembly took about one-third the time as the first. Below is the obligatory safety wire picture. That's it. Really do hope the next pictures are with the truck in my garage.

[edwardb]

It's here! One month to the day after completed at Factory Five, Stewart delivery my truck kit. Cold and and a bit snowy, plus after dark. So a little interesting. But the driver was great, my buddy Greg came over and helped, and we got it done. All 31 boxes, plus the body/chassis assembly, plus the various glass pieces since I'm doing full fenders, running boards, etc. The initial POL (backorder list) was about 1-1/2 pages. But a bunch of it was filled before the shipment went out. So not terrible. Although several fairly significant parts (spindles, rear control arms, tilt steering column, etc.) so I'll get right on following up with Factory Five. Quick review of the glass parts look pretty decent. Should be a fun project. But also probably the most complicated one I've done yet. We'll see. Inventory starts tomorrow.

[Rsnake]

Congratulations Paul! I am sure it was a tough wait.
Did you see anything else in the truck?

[edwardb]

Congratulations Paul! I am sure it was a tough wait.
Did you see anything else in the truck?

I sent you a PM. Yes, headed your way.

[Rsnake]

Thank you Paul!

[edwardb]

Spent the last three days doing the inventory, lots of studying, and arranging everything. I use the inventory for more than just counting parts and checking them off the list. For stuff that I don’t recognize, which is a lot on this kit since it’s different than what I’ve built before, I review the build manual, test fit where I can, etc. Slows this step way down, but IMO is an investment in later during the build. Learned a lot in the process. I also use this time to clean up fabricated parts a bit if necessary. The parts that Factory Five makes are typically very precise and well put together. Not sure if laser cut, or CNC plasma, whatever. Probably depends on the material. Far from an expert on that subject. But in almost all cases, have little “nibs” left behind. Plus sometimes have rough edges. I take a little time to file or sand with the stationary disk sander. Just adds to the neatness of the overall build. Plus, those little buggers can draw blood. Ask me how I know. I'll be doing the same thing on parts already mounted on the chassis.

One thing that maybe bears repeating for new builders, even though talked about on the forums a lot. In case you didn’t know, there are A LOT of parts required for one of these builds. Staying organized is a big part of what it takes IMO. Factory Five does a good job of putting all the parts in (basically…) logical boxes and documenting exactly what’s in each box. In my case there were 31 boxes. I put the box/part listing in a 3-ring binder and check off each item as it’s inventoried. Then I put each part back in the box it came in. For any POL items, I put them in the box where they were intended to be in the first place and also mark that on the list. I have all the boxes lined up in a storage room in our basement and can go to whatever box is needed to retrieve parts as required. Using the printed listing to find, plus I mark on the box what’s generally in it. Some guys scan the list and put in their computer. Even though I'm a (supposedly...) geeky former IT guy, I haven't done that or found it necessary. I'm OK with the paper in this case. I’m lucky to have enough storage space to do this. But recommend the same if you can. I see guys mixing up boxes, putting everything in totes, etc. I’m sure it works for some. But not how I approach it. Oh and by the way, congrats to whoever has the packing paper concession at Factory Five. Good grief.

Overall, I’m pretty pleased with the part situation. The Parts Order List (POL) that was initially part of my shipment was about 1-1/2 pages long. But they made another run for parts before it went out the door and filled a bunch of them. That’s standard practice. But in this case all but 18 line items were filled. So I’m left with probably the shortest POL of my builds so far. Unfortunately, the rest of the story is a few of them are needed right away. Front spindles, rear LCA’s, the whole packaged aluminum box, and a couple hardware related suspension parts. But there’s plenty I can do for now.

As far as missing or defective parts, reasonably good results there too. I only have 8 line items to follow up with Factory Five. Couple of parts that just weren’t in the boxes even though listed as shipped, a couple of mixed hardware items, and some missing under floor aluminum that was supposed to be on the shipped chassis but not there unfortunately. Probably my biggest issue is one of my front fenders is defective IMO. Took pictures. I’ll be following up with all of the above. Based on history, I’m confident they will take care of each of these.

Some observations FWIW after going through everything.

This is the first time I’ve ordered a kit without the optional factory chassis powder coating. Several reasons which I’ve mentioned before. I’ve got a couple minor mods in mind. Depending on how things go with mockup. Since a lot of the chassis is exposed, even with the fenders and running boards, I wanted the chance to clean things up before powder coat. But as luck would have it, there’s surprisingly little slag or spatter overall. Good job Factory Five. What’s there I’ll clean up. But most importantly, I’m just not a big fan of the satin black they’re using now. Not sure what color powder coat I’ll end up with. I’m thinking maybe a silver or glimmer color. But could be gloss black. We’ll see.

I’m super pleased to see the glass that came with the kit. One of the big challenges that I had with the Coupe was the Jaguar vintage windshield did not have the black border (frit) so was a lot of work (and drama) to mask it off, apply, and how it looked when done. All turned out OK. But I was lucky to have some pros in our local club that assisted. For the truck, the glass is all custom, and the front and rear pieces have the frit already applied along with the usual modern rows of dots inside the border. So will need primer as usual when installed. But nothing that needs to be masked or will show. I checked the fit and looks really good. Plenty of clearance and sit tight in the openings. The front glass is slightly curved (matches the body OK) and the rear glass is flat. The door windows are normal with no border but are also tinted.

I can see right away the doors are going to be one of the major efforts for the build. The usual fitting to the body. Plus others have commented about the mods required to the supplied hinges. Large SS pieces that have to be cut and drilled. Power windows are part of the kit. Another first for me. Between the door frames, the hinges, the latch, the power windows, there are two of the large boxes of parts! Aluminum templates are provided for the various cutouts, which is a nice touch. Will be interesting.

Spent some time checking the LS motor mount setup and the LS headers provided. Looks good so far. Dropping the LS and automatic trans into the chassis will be one of my first steps once I get organized.

Overall, I’m very pleased with the quality of the parts provided. IMO, Factory Five is stepping up a bit here. Where in the past I might have upgraded or had to buy additional, they’re included with the kit. Examples: Full LED lighting front and rear, solid state flashers, door cards, floor mats, roll bar padding, a decent set of gaskets that maybe can get the doors waterproof, 3-point belts (most suitable for this build), even a rivnut installation tool since there are a number of them used for the body and bed. I was also surprised and pleased to see the inside of the bed is completely steel lined, including a massive (and heavy) piece of SS sheet for the floor. Not planning to haul gravel back there (!!) but nice to see it's robust. Also pleased with the seriously strong running board supports provided.

One of the questions I've been asked and wondering about myself is whether the truck will fit into my 16-foot Serpent Express. At this point, really not sure but I have my doubts. With the Coupe parked next to the truck, I can see that even though the truck has a much longer wheelbase, they're about the same overall length. But the truck is roughly a foot taller. No surprise there. But if height isn't an issue, I suspect width might be. Especially with my build having full fenders. Will find out at some point of course. I probably shouldn't have been, but surprised the truck easily fits under the full height setting of my Bendpak lift. I though the cab might hit the cut-off bar at the top. But it's not even very close.

Finally, one other observation based on the context of my past life in large companies and manufacturing. The Coupe had a significant number of custom fabricated parts. Many more than the previous Roadsters. This kit is the same. A whole bunch of custom designed and fabricated parts. It’s amazing to me that a small company like Factory Five can churn this stuff out and at this quality level. Credit to them and their team. But also can’t overlook modern productivity tools like CAD, CNC equipment, etc. Interesting stuff. To me anyway.

That’s it for now. Some more organization and clean-up and I’m going to start digging in.

[Papa]

Nice introduction to the start of your build, Paul. I'm looking forward to following your progress on another build. I still have the itch to do a coupe, but need to get a few more years of work out of the way so I can retire and hopefully do another build at that point.

Dave

[JohnK]

Very nice! Glad to hear the frame is pretty clean. FWIW - the best way I found to remove weld spatter before I had my roadster frame PC'ed was with a cold chisel like this one. It reaches into all the little nooks and crannies easily, and all the little weld spatter balls just pop right off - most by hand but the really stubborn ones with a light tap of a mallet.

[progmgr1]

But most importantly, I’m just not a big fan of the satin black they’re using now. Not sure what color powder coat I’ll end up with. I’m thinking maybe a silver or glimmer color. But could be gloss black. We’ll see.

Paul - FWIW, I also went with a bare chassis for my Hot Rod. I suggest you check out Prismatic Powders for your color selection. They have an extremely broad color / texture / special effects range and IIRC, sell sample swatches at a reasonable price so you can get a better feel for the final result. I haven't made my final selection yet, but am leaning hard toward "Shimmer River" PRB 1502 / River. Good luck with the build! I'm looking forward to another tip-filled build thread.
Keith HR #894

[Jeff Kleiner]

Paul,
RE: fitting into the SE, don’t rule out the possibility of backing it in so that the cab is under the high point of the structure. Some time before you have to work that out though! Meanwhile I’m going to enjoy following along as the build

Jeff

[Erik W. Treves]

Paul.

I will tell you my only issue when I trailered the Truck to SEMA... it isn't only height in your case.... the width with the running boards. I think if I recall I had about 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 inches of clearance at the front of the rear fender and running board.... it made me very nervous going down the road initially since ANY flex in the sidewalls would have meant immediate destruction of the running board. The extra sidewall I had with the drag radials didn't help either. Anyway just something else to think about .... way later

[edwardb]

After completing my inventory and reviewing my POL and handful of parts issues with Factory Five, I’m thinking some patience is going to be required. They are clearly slammed with orders and supply chains all over are hurting. Plus, the warehouse was just down a week for inventory. Obviously will stay in touch and hopefully I’ll see some parts coming my way soon. But going to take the advice I’ve given others a number of times and stay busy working around those items. I don’t expect to run out of things to do for some time.

So with that, first up I spent several days cleaning parts and cleaning the chassis. All the little “nibs” off cut parts as I mentioned before. Both loose in multiple boxes plus all over the chassis. They are nasty and you really want them gone. Then did clean-up on welds. Nothing extreme. Just knocked out all the splatter I could find (which wasn’t bad) and smoothed any obvious blobs. A carbide burr in a die grinder works well. Then gave everything a solvent wipe-down and went to something more constructive. Since my chassis, along with various suspension parts, is bare (no powder coat) I’m going to mock up the front and rear suspension, the engine/trans, and the major interior components to determine the best location and layout for everything. If any cutting (more on that later) or modifications are required, I’ll do that first. Then back apart, get everything coated, and back together for good. So, I’m not using any grease on the suspension components for now and only finger tight on bolts where I can. I’m not tightening any of the lock nuts. While not necessarily one-time use, I just prefer to not be taking them off and on more than necessary. Hopefully only once. If I need a lock nut tightened, I dig a regular nut out of my hardware junk drawer (we all have one, right?) and use that for now. I’m bagging and tagging the final assembly lock nuts as required. Yeah, a little extra work but how I’m approaching it.

First was mocking up the front suspension. I’m missing spindles and an adjuster for the LCA’s. So not able to complete it. But enough for my purposes at this point. Really not much to say. What I have went together fine. Can see where I’m at in this pic, plus the LS engine mounts that I was checking at the time, and the electric power steering. The chassis has two sets of holes for the suspension. The build manual says the top set is for a lower ride height (4-4.5”) while the bottom set is for a higher ride height (5.5”). But no other real direction. Since this is a pure street cruiser plus I'll have full fenders and running boards, decided to go with the bottom set and higher ride height. That also means trimming one of the LCA tabs on the frame, shown in the manual, because it interferes with the bottom location of the steering rack. So probably at the point of no return on this topic.



Next up, I dropped in the previously assembled LS3 and GM 4L65E auto trans. I test fit the Hooker LS headers that came with the LS installation kit from FFR. Looked to me like they wouldn’t be in the way when installing the engine, so left them on. Sure enough. No problem at all. I’m sure going to miss wrestling with header bolts after the engine is in. Hear that Roadster and Coupe? The all aluminum LS3 isn’t super heavy. But with the auto trans it’s a chunk. Working by myself, pushed and tugged and got it into position. Doesn’t take a real extreme angle and there’s quite a bit of clearance at this stage. So actually went in pretty easily.





Right away ran into my first issue. The front of the transmission mounts on the frame interfered with the rear corners of the 4L65E auto trans. Having the trans either above or below the mounts wouldn’t work. Clearly some metal had to come out. Before doing that, checked and double checked my motor mounts to make sure I didn’t do something stupid. Checked out OK. The LS instructions for those from FFR are very clear. And based on other pictures I’ve seen, the engine was in the right location. It would have had to come forward 3/4" or so to clear the mounts. And things are already relatively tight up front. So, trimming a little at a time, finally arrived at the right amount. Then found the 1-1/8” spacers provided for the GM mount were also too long. Pushed the trans up too high. The fiberglass cover rested on the edges of the trans instead of reaching the cockpit floor. So, calculated they needed to be 1/2". With those changes, everything looks good. These pictures show how the trans now fits by the mounts. Wouldn't have been a big deal to touch up the trimming if it had been powder coated. But still nice not to worry about it.





I’m happy with where everything sits for now. I can adjust further by changing the spacers (again) at the trans mount if needed. While not big deal, I really can’t explain why the engine/trans didn’t fit without some massaging. The LS3 and 4L65E auto trans is supposed to be a supported combination. As it sits now, the engine/trans is 2.2 degrees down toward the rear. I won’t be able to tell too much more until the rear suspension is hung and driveshaft is in. No rear LCA’s, so that’s not happening now. Hoping to find the pinion angle is OK and the driveshaft is the right length. Speaking of that, the provided 38-1/2” driveshaft is practically comical after the stubby driveshafts used on previous builds.

I did find the heater hose connections at the front of the engine are close to the frame. But should be OK. Pictures I see in other LS builds look the same. I had to rotate the thermostat housing 180 degrees. It was a hard interference against the frame in the stock position. I’m assuming this is expected and I’ll be able to route the hose OK. But haven’t seen this mentioned anywhere.



I’ve also confirmed the power steering electric assist motor hits the oil pan. Not a surprise since this is documented in another LS build. I have the part numbers of two different LS swap pans that are supposed to provide clearance. I’ll check a little more and get one ordered. I have a $250 rebate from my LS3 crate (thanks Chevrolet) that will soften the blow. That makes it a clean sweep. Every single build has required an aftermarket oil pan.

Finally, on a totally different note, every build is an excuse for new tools, right? I’m actually not expecting too many new tools on this build since previous builds have provided plenty of excuses already. But one thing I’ve wanted was to get a real brake and replace the little 30” Harbor Freight bending brake I’ve been using. I’ve fabricated a bunch of parts with that thing. But it’s extremely basic and has limitations. What I really wanted was a box and pan brake. Would have really come in handy for some of the parts I’ve previously made. I found a NIB Woodward Fab WFBP2420 24" Box and Pan Brake on eBay for less than list price and free shipping. Went for it and now in my workshop. Date code is a couple years old. But that’s OK. It’s brand new and with a few test pieces works perfectly. Would really have liked the 36” version. But 2-1/2 times the price and over 400 lbs to drag to my basement. Just wasn’t warranted for the few times I might need the extra width. Put it on a H-F stand. Solid and looking for something to make with it.

[FFinisher]

Paul, if the turn the power steering motor vertical you can spare the expense of the new pan. I have used straight thermostat housings on my LS builds .

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well it looks like I have a new favorite thread to check every morning! This is getting fun now

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Well it looks like I have a new favorite thread to check every morning! This is getting fun now

Jeff

Is It Because It Is Chevy Powered?

All kidding aside, if the Truck and 33-HR share the same front clip, which I think they do, then I can say first hand that the LS fits a lot better than the SBC.
The crank pulley is pretty darn close to the steering rack (3/8" Clearance) by comparison on my friend's 33-HR that sports a BP 400 SBC.
I'm sure everyone will be watching as this machine comes together.

This Will Be An Excellent Execution For This Platform As We Watch Paul Work His Magic!

[edwardb]

Paul, if the turn the power steering motor vertical you can spare the expense of the new pan. I have used straight thermostat housings on my LS builds .

Wow, great comments and thanks for watching over my shoulder on the build. I'll look for a straight thermostat housing. Kind of thought maybe something like that existed.

You're absolutely right. The power steering motor clocks around to vertical and fits up fine. Thanks for the suggestion! Any concerns about how close the motor is to the header? Maybe only an inch or less of airspace there.