Hard Shifting TKO 600

[bnelson]

I got my 427 all in and got the interior done with exception of the new center console. Got it fired up and took for test drive and could hardly get it to shift. When clutch is in it totally disengages (can sit without brake on) but when trying to shift to any gear its almost impossible without really forcing it. Anyone have any advice?

[edwardb]

Still sounds like maybe your clutch isn't disengaging all the way. What fluid are you using? Tremec: "For all TKO 5-speed models, TREMEC recommends TREMEC HP-MTF, GM Synchromesh or Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF." I used Genuine GM Fluid 88900333 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid in mine. From Summit. Some mistakenly use Dexron III ATF.

[bnelson]

Thanks edwardb. I used the exact same thing. 88900333.

[Andrew Davis]

Aargh!
Why do the FF5 instructions spec out 2.64 qts. of Mercon/Dexron III for TKOs in appendix D?
Sorry, just a bit confused by some of the conflicting instructions and info. As is, putting ATF in a manual trans is un-natural, though I understand the physics. Just making me aware of my age I suppose. Thanks guys.

[edwardb]

Thanks edwardb. I used the exact same thing. 88900333.

That's worked for me. I'd still recommend trying to adjust the clutch and see if that changes anything. TKO's can be a bit stiff when new. Takes a thousand or two miles to break in. But still shouldn't have to be forced into gear like you're describing.

Aargh!
Why do the FF5 instructions spec out 2.64 qts. of Mercon/Dexron III for TKOs in appendix D?
Sorry, just a bit confused by some of the conflicting instructions and info. As is, putting ATF in a manual trans is un-natural, though I understand the physics. Just making me aware of my age I suppose. Thanks guys.

Quote above is directly from the Tremec website. Very specifically says NOT to use ATF fluid in the TKO. Has to do with the material used in the syncros. Too bad that's what the FFR instructions say. Don't be confused. Take the mfg's word.

[bnelson]

Ive got the hydraulic throughout bearing. Set up with clearance recommended in instructions. Man if I have to take the front end apart and pull this engine and trans again I'm gonna cry like a little baby

[edwardb]

Ive got the hydraulic throughout bearing. Set up with clearance recommended in instructions. Man if I have to take the front end apart and pull this engine and trans again I'm gonna cry like a little baby

If you set the HRB per the instructions, that's not something you want to change. Wilwood pedal box? Running the pedal all the way to the floor or against a stop? Adjust the stop? Or you could raise the pedal to get more throw. Another option is a larger MC to get more throw. But the clutch not completely disengaging is just a guess and you can't exceed the throw spec of the HRB.

[bnelson]

If you set the HRB per the instructions, that's not something you want to change. Wilwood pedal box? Running the pedal all the way to the floor or against a stop? Adjust the stop? Or you could raise the pedal to get more throw. Another option is a larger MC to get more throw. But the clutch not completely disengaging is just a guess and you can't exceed the throw spec of the HRB.

Yes. The Wilwood box that came in kit. I'll double check. I set the pedal to 1/4" past disengagement per the bearing instructions. I'll try running the stop all the way down and see if it changes anything. Thanks for the advice.

Bruce

[VIRGIN MIKE]

my experience with the tk600 / hydro clutch is that it requires slightly over an inch of throw from the slave to get easy shifts, had to go to a larger master to get the pedal even with (down to) the brake pedal; feels to me like about half of that distance is used up before the pressure plate began to disengage (beginning with no slack) wish I could find definitive info on the subject

[bnelson]

my experience with the tk600 / hydro clutch is that it requires slightly over an inch of throw from the slave to get easy shifts, had to go to a larger master to get the pedal even with (down to) the brake pedal; feels to me like about half of that distance is used up before the pressure plate began to disengage (beginning with no slack) wish I could find definitive info on the subject

That seems to be correct. I bottomed out the stop and re bled everything and shifts pretty smooth. I am reading where it takes about 1K miles to really break it in but I can deal with it the way it is. Also figured out you don't shift these things like an old rock crusher. Where you had to maneuver the shifter into the next position. Just open palm it and it finds the next gear. Sure am happy I'm not pulling engine and trans this weekend! Thanks all for the suggestions

[Andrew Davis]

Thanks Paul, the 88900333 is on order.
Thank goodness for the forum knowledge base.