Need some help on trans tunnel cover

[EZ$]

So, I'm trying to get my tunnel cover ready to upholster in vinyl, and I've run into a snag, not with the covering, but fitting the cover itself. I have a T5 with an S10 mod, so the shifter is forward. The tunnel cover that came with the kit was cut for the standard shifter location, so I put one of the hole plugs provided, and riveted it in place. I wanted the aluminum cover to act as a fire stop since I planned on using a piece of plywood as a cover over it so there would be a smooth surface to place the vinyl on. During the initial fitting of the plywood cover I had the cable disconnected from the brake handle, a Lokar unit, so I could pull the handle all the way up. With the handle in this position I could slide the handle into the slot I had cut, and get it into position. Problem was, I couldn't figure how I was going to get the cable reconnected after mounting the cover. I don't believe there is enough space to reach up from underneath. With the handle connected to the cable, it can only be pulled up a couple of notches, and when I try to swing the tunnel cover on, it's not possible to get the handle in the slot to rotate into position.
My question is to those that have installed a tunnel mounted brake handle. How were you able to get the cover in place with the handle mounted, and the cable connected? I've spent way too many days trying to figure this out including fabricating a number of options that ultimately have failed, and I need this completed to be able the install the carpet on the sides of the tunnel, since I don't think I'm going to be able to overlap the carpet with the aluminum.
As a note, I've considered getting an FFMetals new uncut tunnel cover, and eliminate the plywood, but I don't think that will make it any easier to install. I'm also considering trimming the turn down on the original tunnel cover to a minimum to make it a bit less bulky, but again, I don't think this will help with the install.

All ideas will be entertained as I am at my wits end.

[JohnK]

Is it possible to leave the cable connected at the handle and disconnect the other end of the parking brake cable, so the handle will be free to swing all the way up and then reconnect the other end once the tunnel cover is in place?

[EZ$]

I'm using the T-Bird rear brakes that came with the IRS. From what I remember it was a b***h getting the cables in the calipers when the other ends weren't connected to anything. Not sure I could do it if the cable is connected to the handle. I was trying to figure a handle mount that I could feed the handle, with the cable connected up through the slot, and then bolt it in place from above. I'm afraid I'd need too big of an opening at the top that the boot wouldn't cover. As I typed that, I had a thought of maybe bolting the rear handle mount, so that the handle could be rotated up to allow the cover to be put in place, and then use a pin with a cotter key, or ???, to secure the front by raising the front of the cover once in place. I just don't know. I guess I'll head back out to the garage, and see if I can try that.

[egchewy79]

agree w/ john. if you have a lokar clevis, you can loosen that up, and disconnect the cable from the rear caliper and reattach the cable once the tunnel is on.

[EZ$]

OK, so I continued to try some different things. Ended up raising the front mount about 3/4". Between that, and pulling up the handle as much as I could, I was able to manuver the cover over the handle, and get everything in place! The handle is a bit higher than I was hoping for, but I can live with that. I can finally move forward to finish the interior, and start on some of the other items that will get me closer to completion. Now there's something that I never thought I would say. Thanks guys

[Al_C]

Looks like you got the handle/cable problem solved. I'd like to offer a suggestion to get rid of the plywood. Cover the aluminum patch (over the original shifter hole) with body filler (e.g. bondo) and feather the edge. This will smooth out the edge and once covered, you will never see the transition. I did this on mine, then glued 1/8 inch padding to the tunnel cover and then glued marine vinyl (version 1). Version 2 stripped everything and replaced it with 1/8 padding and leather.

[EZ$]

Al, I kind of hosed on that one. I jacked up the cuts to the aluminum cover, so it's going to take more that some body filler to fix this one! Actually, I'm liking the way the wood worked, and once it's covered I'm hoping it looks great, but we'll see. After all, I am the one doing the work!