txboiler 9968 Build Thread - front suspension and passenger sheetmetal
After years of wanting to build a Factory Five Roadster the process started a couple months ago. Ashleigh, my 17 year old daughter, who for years has wanted to help me with the endeavor, joined me for the build school at Mott Community College. After an awesome weekend I ordered the complete kit the following Tuesday. The kit completed the week before Christmas and should be delivered this week by Stewart.
We are planning the following basic build
Complete Mk IV Kit, 3 Link with Moser 8.8, vintage low back seats
Blue Print 347 EFI with TKO600 & Hydraulic Clutch, with Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage
15" Halibrand w/ Wilwood Brakes from Gordon Levy
RT drop truck mod and throttle
Breeze radiator shroud, mount and fwd battery box
Ashleigh is contemplating doing a build thread of her own; One that provides the perspective of young female builder. Sound off if you think there is a young, or female audience, on the forum that might benefit from this.
Since we are in Indiana, and less that an hour from the Moser facility, we received the differential a couple weeks ago. The brakes arrived from Levy last week. Today we started assembling the rear rotors. We ran into a easily resolved problem right off the bar. The studs were not seated all the way and the rotor hats would not seat properly.
Reached out to Gordon and typical with his awesome customer service I got an answer back quickly. It validated what I was thinking: use some washers and lug nuts and torque them down to seat the studs completely.
Very nice! Our daughter helped with the build and used the experience on her college entrance exams. She graduates RPI MechE this coming May.
Also... consider replacing the rear axle lower control arms with the ones from Breeze.
FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
"Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller
Welcome TXB, I'm in central Indiana too!
If you ever need a hand with the heavy lifting or anything else, feel free to contact me. Happy to help.
Good luck!
John
Gen 3 Coupe #334 received 11/4/21. Coyote, IRS, TKX, Wilwoods
'02 GT donor, 4.6 sohc, Received #5488 on 5/29/06. 3-link, ps, pb. Hoosier Cobra member (Hoosiercobra.com)
Welcome TXB, I'm in central Indiana too!
If you ever need a hand with the heavy lifting or anything else, feel free to contact me. Happy to help.
Good luck!
Thanks John I appreciate the offer. We are on the north side of IND.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Today was an awesome day; one that I did not waste time figuring out how to rotate and post pictures from the iPhone. Eric from Stewart arrived right in time and had awesome communication starting 24 hrs out.
Ashleigh, Jennifer (chair of the finance committee and obviously my better half) and I all had a blast helping unload the truck.
60 minutes drama free minutes later I was headed back to work (uh....I so wanted to start inventorying and starting the process!!). I was happy to see the wheels shipped and Eric pointed out the radiator box. He said that is the first time in a while he has delivered that box.
After work I got home and looked at the POL. It was 3/4 of a page with half the items included in box 22 and 23. Based on recent build threads this seems to be an improvement over recent deliveries. The two major items on the POL are the LCA and power steering rack.
If those were on your POL please let me know how long it was before you received them?
It was good to see a fellow Build School class mate’s Roadster (Noah k) on the same truck. Looking forward to building very similar cars at the same time.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Congrats! Your build looks similar to mine, and, like you, I ordered mine immediately after finishing the build school last January. You are going to have a blast! There is a post somewhere on the forum about how to get pictures to orient properly, just search for it. I look forward to following your progress.
MKIV Complete Kit #9822 l BluePrint 347 EFI l TKO600 l Power Steering l Heater/Defrost l Build Thread
Thanks for sending the photos of my mine in the trailer. Eric is supposed to be here at 10am tomorrow, sleep seems futile I am so excited. It is definitely nice having our similar builds starting about the same time. I will try and get my act together after delivery to start a build thread too.
Welcome to the asylum!
By all means have your daughter start her own build thread on here. A little estrogen around here would be welcomed (IMO).
My Roadster is currently being "Kleinerized" about an hour SW of you.
A few suggestions from another 1st-time builder:
- No question is a dumb question
- Look through the build threads... Somebody's been-there-done-that, or you'll find more ways to spend your money.
- Highly recommend building a chassis dolly cart, elevated if possible (your back will thank you)... and an elevated body buck/parts storage rig.
- Copy your inventory log sheets, and tape the copy to the box of parts. Then you don't have to go digging.
- Start a logbook/binder. Tear off the part #'s, etc. of "outside" parts or materials you acquire, and put 'em in slip-covers in the binder.
- Get a supply of Hi-Light'rs, and a pack of those "sign here" sticky tabs. Mark up your assembly manual. A big "X" through steps completed, a sticky-tab on the page where you need to go back and do something.
- These things aren't an IKEA "snap/screw together it'll look like the picture on the box" kit. There is some work & fabrication involved.
- Get a model builder's "paint pen" from a hobby shop/HobbyLobby/wherever. Put a daub of paint on each bolt/nut that's final torqued & done.
- Have Fun!
- When it starts kickin' yer Azz (and it will!)... walk away from it for a couple of days. Clean the shop, Clear your head.
- Have Fun!
Thanks for sending the photos of my mine in the trailer. Eric is supposed to be here at 10am tomorrow, sleep seems futile I am so excited. It is definitely nice having our similar builds starting about the same time. I will try and get my act together after delivery to start a build thread too.
Daddy O. I hope the delivery went smooth. I look forward seeing your build thread.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Welcome to the asylum!
By all means have your daughter start her own build thread on here. A little estrogen around here would be welcomed (IMO).
My Roadster is currently being "Kleinerized" about an hour SW of you.
A few suggestions from another 1st-time builder:
- No question is a dumb question
- Look through the build threads... Somebody's been-there-done-that, or you'll find more ways to spend your money.
- Highly recommend building a chassis dolly cart, elevated if possible (your back will thank you)... and an elevated body buck/parts storage rig.
- Copy your inventory log sheets, and tape the copy to the box of parts. Then you don't have to go digging.
- Start a logbook/binder. Tear off the part #'s, etc. of "outside" parts or materials you acquire, and put 'em in slip-covers in the binder.
- Get a supply of Hi-Light'rs, and a pack of those "sign here" sticky tabs. Mark up your assembly manual. A big "X" through steps completed, a sticky-tab on the page where you need to go back and do something.
- These things aren't an IKEA "snap/screw together it'll look like the picture on the box" kit. There is some work & fabrication involved.
- Get a model builder's "paint pen" from a hobby shop/HobbyLobby/wherever. Put a daub of paint on each bolt/nut that's final torqued & done.
- Have Fun!
- When it starts kickin' yer Azz (and it will!)... walk away from it for a couple of days. Clean the shop, Clear your head.
- Have Fun!
John. Thanks for the suggestions. Some I have already implemented and others I will will definitely be implementing. I spent most of today finishing a body buck that will be hoisted to the ceiling. I had not planned on a dolly but less than a week into this adventure I think one will be made soon.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Couldn't give up the 2nd bay, so a sawed off body buck, some pulleys & para-cord. (I think the rig weighs more than the body).
I have 13 ft ceilings and couldn’t convince the better half that a lift be ideal. Lift the body and buck in place and use ratchet straps to secure and then lower the lift (that would solve the need for a Dolly as well. 😀. I guess that will be for the next build.
I estimate the body is 90 lbs and the buck is about 75. (Still have mastered the photo rotation....maybe I should have Ashleigh do that. 😂
Does anyone know how much the roadster body weighs?
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
We have been making progress over the past week or so. We have inventoried all the boxes and there were some parts missing; but true to what I have seen, elsewhere on the forum, the team at FFR has been great in handling these shortages. The body is removed and safely hoisted to garage ceiling. Thankfully we have 13 ft ceilings in the garage and I was able to store it above the garage door and still be able to open it. Although Ms Txboiler said it must hang over my car not hers !!
While Ashleigh and a friend were visiting a college campus (prospecting for next year) I spent yesterday marking sheet metal panels and removing them. I plan to use the "brushed aluminum" look in Yama-bro's build thread. Today, Ashleigh assembled the front Wilwood rotors, including the safety wiring....that was her first time and she nailed it.....not having to redo any of hers. I completed the rear rotors and had to redo one of my safety wires.... Ashleigh claims it is do to her smaller hands and patience.....she is probably correct. I am happy that she is as excited about this build as I am; more importantly she is having fun.
Since the LCAs and Rivets were on my POL, I plan to focus my attention on building up and installing the rear axle, fuel tank, and drop trunk mod. Does anyone see a problem with starting with these items? I will then shift my attention to laying out the F panels applying the brush aluminum look to the engine bay side and applying a bed liner to the wheel well side.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a product to use on the wheel well side? I have looked at several and they all appear to be the same, but I am wondering about what prep others have used to prepare the aluminum. Sure there is the standard solvent clean and paint prep, but have others etched the aluminum, used primer etc.
After I have the F panels prepped I am going start with some of the sub assembly work (pedal box, shocks, etc)
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
I started to build up the Moser rear axle that I got with the complete kit. I was installing the Torque Lok brackets and had no problems with the PS. When I was installing the DS I could get both the shorter "Side" bolts installed, but the back side of the bracket was rotated down (when viewed from the back to the front) and the shock bolt would not go into the hole on the bracket welded to the axle. It was approx 7/8 of the hole mis aligned. I tried to use a brass drift to align the hole but it was too far. I removed the bracket and used a 1/2" drill to removed powder coating from the inside of the "shorter" side bolt holes.
This helped significantly. I can now get the inboard shorter bolt and the shock bolt through the torque lok axle brackets. The out board shorter bolt hole is misaligned by approx 1/8 hole (upper hole on the first photo below). I was thinking of drilling a 1/2" through the through the backet and enlarging the hole on the axle bracket . Looking for suggestions before I do so.
If you're doing the dropped trunk mod, absolutely do the "Kleiner Mod" for the rear QJ, Overrider/Bumperette, Whatever. Do a search and you'll find out about it.
What it comes down to is replacing the bumper nuts (that will be buried and in-accessible after dropping the trunk) with a bolt and threaded coupler mod. The threaded coupler will be accessible in the trunk area for accessing the fasteners for QJ's, Overriders.
Hey TXboiler, I'm in Lafayette Building a base kit with a 2004 Mustang GT Donor, it's a slow go, but I just hit page 180 on the manual, working on the fuel tank install. I'd love to compare notes with your build sometime. Where exactly are you?
Hey TXboiler, I'm in Lafayette Building a base kit with a 2004 Mustang GT Donor, it's a slow go, but I just hit page 180 on the manual, working on the fuel tank install. I'd love to compare notes with your build sometime. Where exactly are you?
Scott Walker
Scott. I am on the north side of Indianapolis. I am in Lafayette quite often for recruiting and other meetings with Purdue. I also have family in Brookston. We can definitely meet up and review notes. PM me any time
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Good to hear another Hoosier is doing this craziness. I'm currently in the planning phase, eagerly lurking everyone's build threads. Like you, I will need to hang the body from the garage ceiling to maintain peace in the homestead. Where did you get your pulleys? Did you add any other "safeties" to the system, or just the rope? How tough is the body and buck to raise and lower?
Thanks for the info
I'm excited to follow along with your build! Mine should be arriving hopefully within a few weeks. Our builds are similar and it will be nice to follow along with yours!
Where did you get your pulleys? Did you add any other "safeties" to the system, or just the rope? How tough is the body and buck to raise and lower?
Thanks for the info
Jeff
Jeff, I bought two kayak storage kits from amazon (link below) and modified the body buck to 1) lighten it up and 2) have cross bars (2x4s) to allow the body buck to be hoisted from four corners. the pullies I bought are rated at 175 lbs each and have a built in lock mechanism. The lock mechanism was "iffy" so I did not rely soley on that. After the body was hoisted up, it was secured to 4 separate eyelets anchored into the ceiling joists (these were each rated at 160 lbs). I used 4 nylon ratchet straps to secure it. There was enough mechanical advantage in the pullies that the load was easily hoisted by myself and my daughters boy friend. He and I held in in place while my daughter and wife each hooked up the two straps on their side. The hole process took less that two minutes (I already had the straps set to the correct length and hanging from the ceiling). My ceiling are about 13" which was at about the max of the rope that came with the kit.
Would love to see pics of the body buck and it raised in the air. Thinking about the same set up.
Hope these help. I can't find one with just the buck, but I modified a design I found on the forum (can not recall which post). To reduce the weight, I modified the shape of the headers that did not come in contact with the body. I tied the forward and read header boards together with 2x4s and 3/8" carriage bolts. I used scraps from the plywood headers to stiffen up the entire assembly and to prevent racking and twist when lifted.
probably the most frustrating aspect of this build is uploading photos to the forum. I have followed the directions (or so I think ) but the preview thumbnails show up in random rotations. If I click on the thumbnail in the post the photo shows correctly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
The out board shorter bolt hole is misaligned by approx 1/8 hole (upper hole on the first photo below). I was thinking of drilling a 1/2" through the through the backet and enlarging the hole on the axle bracket . Looking for suggestions before I do so.
Also... consider replacing the rear axle lower control arms with the ones from Breeze.
I have noticed that the rear lower control arms appear to have been updated to cost aluminum pieces, replacing the tubular welded assemblies pictured in the manual. I am not sure when they replaced these with the current one. Is your recommendation based on the old welded ones or the current cast ones?
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
I took the day off yesterday to start the build in earnest. I made a paint booth out of left over PVC pipe and fittings, plastic, heat lamp and hvac filter. Works great and no overspray of note. I am using it for miscellaneous pieces that will not get powder coated and when I spray truck bed liner on the wheel well panels.
We finished building up the rear end and after one trip to Ford parts counter and two trips to Home depot we were able to get the caliper brackets installed. The plan tomorrow is to lift the axle in place with a motorcycle lift. When removing the panhard bar frame mount from the chassis I noticed there was an approximate 1/4" gap between DS brace that gets drill the plate on the rear of the round tub. I don't remember this gap when attending the build school. I also notice that the holes between the 4 bolts (2ea on DS and PS) that mount the panhard bar frame mount appear to be "pulled". my thought is that if this gap is not typical, I could try to straighten these holes and see if the gap closes. I am concerned that this might change the geometry of how the panhard bar attached.
Does this look normal (beside the photo being rotated (fwd is down and up is to the left)....I think i am going mad trying to figure this out....maybe I should leave posting the photos to the teenager!!)? 01-30-21 Panhard bar a.jpg
We also go the F panels drilled up? Still waiting on rivets from the POL, so I am going to order some black rivets from McMaster-Carr since panels will have truck bed line applied.
I had the old ones, but the new design has the same fixed geometry. I would replace them if it were my build.
FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
"Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller
It has been a couple days since I last posted on the progress and I feel like I have worked around the shortages on the POL (main drivers being front LCAs and Rivets). I have focused on the rear end and have installed the axle, 3 link assembly, and shocks. Everything is torqued and torque striped. I have progressed to the Wilwood pedal box assembly and have a couple questions. I followed the instructions and pictures in the manual, marking the hole location for the brake and clutch switch from the rear side of the flange and installing the bracket on the front side.
when I do this, two problems. 1) I have to adjust the switch all the way forward to make contact with the pedals. 2) the clutch switch contacts the rear bracket that attached to the master cylinder studs and 3/4" tubes.
I am thinking of switch the switch brackets to the forward side of the flange. This should provide more adjustment as well as eliminating the interference between the clutch switch and the bracket. Does anyone see any problems with this?
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
I made some progress over the weekend and implemented some of the ideas that I saw on other Build Threads. I decided to going with the brushed aluminum look on the engine bay panels (While planning the build I saw this method on Yamabro's build thread and I believe he referenced this back to Jeff Kleiner). I treated the bushed panels with Sharkhide. I decided to paint the wheel well and underside of the floor panels with Rustoleum Black bed liner. I saw this look on Papa's Build. I had several panels that were damaged in shipment and tested both the brushed aluminum and application of bed liner on these. I found that using Red scotch brite gave the look I was going after. I also tested application on bed line to bare aluminum, aluminum scuffed with red scotch brite, and aluminum scuffed with red scotch brite and primed with a self etching primer. The last had the best adhesion and did not scrape off. It took about about 35-45 extra minutes of prep time before the bedliner could be applied, but most of that was waiting for the 30 minutes after primer was applied.
I also got the brake master cylinders and the rest of the pedal box installed. I will be installing the hydraulic clutch, but have not found those Instructions yet. I am assuming that the install is the same as the brakes master cylinders; can someone please confirm?
I do need to go back and adjust the switch brackets. I ended up placing the brackets on the forward side of the flange, but as you can see with the switch all the way forward it does not contact the clutch arm. In the photo the clutch master cylinder is not installed, but I anticipate the same thing will happen with the clutch as on the brake pedal. I have the master cylinders installed and that switch is barely engaged and the pedal is contact the 3/4 inch tube. Plan the bend the switch bracket about 10-15% forward. This will help ensure the switch is engage when the pedal have no pressure on them and allow for the brake to be adjusted so that it does not contact the cross tube.
I opted to go for the brushed look on the bracket and frame for the pedal box and clear coated. I also replaced the black oxide bolts with stainless steel to prevent the corrosion that others have documented in the build threads. I must say the local Ace is a great source of hardware and has a much more extensive selection that the other Big Box stores....friendly service and they refill my propane tank for the garage heater.
Finally, since I am still short the LCAs I started to install the passenger footbox. I will work on laying out the rivet pattern, drill and clecoing that up this week.
I will then lay out and fabricating a thicker forward firewall before moving on the fuel tank install. As mentioned earlier I plan to do the Kleiner quick jack modification
Oh and the engine arrived last week......for now the crate makes a great standing work bench.
Continuing to make steady progress, or atleast it feels like steady progress!!
I started the week by making tapered shims to place between the brake/clutch switch brackets and the pedal box frame. I considered bending them, but I was uncertain if they would crack due to temper and thickness. I made the shim out of 0.125" thick by 1/2 wide aluminum stock. I cut two pieces approximately 3" long. On one of of the pieces I drew a guideline on the profile, placed them side by side in a vice, and hand filed the taper. The taper was approximately 0.030" to 0.125" over 1".
Prior to cutting them to length I stacked them and back drilled the hole from the bracket. The taper positioned the switch more forward and in line with the pedal arc.
Mid week I got an email from FFR that some items from my POL were being shipped. Two of those being the LCAs!!
The passenger side fwd and aft brackets were aligned properly, only requiring one shim washer to be installed on the aft bracket. I did have some challenges with the driver side forward LCA bracket. The space between the fwd brackets needed to be opened up approximately 0.050". I used the process documented on other build threads (edwardB and Yamabro's....i think is where I saw it); a piece of all thread two washers and two nuts placed between the flanges and tightened. After opening up the fwd flange I was able to get the LCA in position. The aft bolt went through but the fwd bolt was catching on the rear hole. I posted the situation on the roadster forum and got several pieces of advice. I ended up using Jeff Kleiner's suggestion of driving it in with an impact wrench. It took a fair amount of pressure but the thread finally "bit" and pulled the bolt through.
I then tackled the UCAs. Taking the advice of others I wire brushed the threads on the ball joints and UCA, applied thread locker and installed as described in the manual with little drama. I have been reading on several build threads that is is recommended to shorten the rear sleeves on the UCA. This will allow for more caster that will be required with the power steering setup. I will shorten these this week and hopefully get them installed before the weekend. I believe this post summarizes the issue quite well.
She got the F-Panels installed and worked on the passenger foot box and transmission tunnel pieces. We got the passenger foot box drilled up an clecoed. This week we plan to deburr, clean and scotch brite the engine bay side of the panel to apply the "brushed" look.
Last edited by txboiler; 02-21-2021 at 08:55 PM.
Mk IV 9968 complete kit, 3 Link, PS, 15” Halibrand, Wilwood Brakes
Blue Print 347, TKO600
Your thread has helped me so far on my build. Thank you! I'm so jealous you got your LCA!!!
I'm still waiting on my master cylinders. I assume, as did you, that you just install the clutch master cylinder just like you do for the brakes, but I'm intrigued to hear what others who have actually done it say.
I am also trying to figure out the switch on the brake and clutch. After reading your build thread I ended up installing the switch bracket on the pedal side of the flange as you did (that was a hassle because my hole wasn't perfectly straight and the holes didn't like up. Ooops).
Now, this is the part I'm trying to figure out, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Also, I'm sharing how I think it works so others can help me if I am misunderstanding. As I see it, the switch should be pressed when the clutch or brake pedal is at its resting position. When you lightly press the brake, it should disengage from the switch which will then turn on the brake lights. Same idea with the clutch so you can start the vehicle. What I can't tell in your pictures is if the pedal is in the fully released position or if it is an engaged position? Since I don't have the master cylinder yet (and haven't filed and bled my system), my pedals like to sit almost fully engaged and they don't touch my switch. However, when I lift the pedals I think it hits the switch. I will check this next time I get to work on the car. If my switch isn't engaged, I will use your nifty shim trick.
You also said your clutch switch was hitting the mount. Did you get that figured out? Mine was too, but if I rotated the switch it cleared the mount by a slight amount.
I'm going to be following your thread since our builds are so similar. Keep up the good work and enjoy the time with your daughter. I wish mine was older, but at 6 and 8 they lose interest after a few minutes. I guess the next build will be with them!
Your thread has helped me so far on my build. Thank you! I'm so jealous you got your LCA!!!
I'm still waiting on my master cylinders. I assume, as did you, that you just install the clutch master cylinder just like you do for the brakes, but I'm intrigued to hear what others who have actually done it say.
I am also trying to figure out the switch on the brake and clutch. After reading your build thread I ended up installing the switch bracket on the pedal side of the flange as you did (that was a hassle because my hole wasn't perfectly straight and the holes didn't like up. Ooops).
Now, this is the part I'm trying to figure out, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Also, I'm sharing how I think it works so others can help me if I am misunderstanding. As I see it, the switch should be pressed when the clutch or brake pedal is at its resting position. When you lightly press the brake, it should disengage from the switch which will then turn on the brake lights. Same idea with the clutch so you can start the vehicle. What I can't tell in your pictures is if the pedal is in the fully released position or if it is an engaged position? Since I don't have the master cylinder yet (and haven't filed and bled my system), my pedals like to sit almost fully engaged and they don't touch my switch. However, when I lift the pedals I think it hits the switch. I will check this next time I get to work on the car. If my switch isn't engaged, I will use your nifty shim trick.
You also said your clutch switch was hitting the mount. Did you get that figured out? Mine was too, but if I rotated the switch it cleared the mount by a slight amount.
I'm going to be following your thread since our builds are so similar. Keep up the good work and enjoy the time with your daughter. I wish mine was older, but at 6 and 8 they lose interest after a few minutes. I guess the next build will be with them!
Hineas...thanks for following along. I was impressed with the amount of work you, your brother and nephew all got done in a week!
As I understand it the brake and clutch switches work are you mentioned (I am not certain if they are normally open or closed and how the circuits work for the brake lights/clutch...but I would imagine they are normally open when the switch is engaged)
In my photos the pedals are "released". I do not have the clutch master cylinder installed yet. I have installed the brake MCs per the manual and the brake pedal still contacted the 3/4" cross tube. I adjusted the threaded rod on the MCs to pull the pedal off the bar and that has left approximately 2 threaded exposed inside the clevises on the balance bar. The photo below shows how the pedal is hitting the 3/4 cross tube (but this is before I installed the tapered shims). I will see if I can get better photos this evening when I get to the house (not sure if you saw this post on the main forum section). The second photo how I have the pedal height set now with about 0.015 to 0.020 clearance between the pedal and 3/4 inch tube 02-14-21 Pedal switch 1.jpg
Tx. You are coming along quite nicely. I went back and forth about Powder coat or brushed AL with sealing. I decided to go with brushing my AL and then sealing with Sharkhide. It turned out nice IMO. As for Ace... I have visited them more now than I ever had LOL!
Last edited by nucjd19; 02-22-2021 at 10:59 PM.
FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal. www.covespringsfarm.com
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Originally Posted by cnutting
Ashleigh claims it is do to her smaller hands and patience.....she is probably correct. I am happy that she is as excited about this build as I am; more importantly she is having fun.
