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Thread: FFR LS 3 headers in a roadster

  1. #1
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    FFR LS 3 headers in a roadster

    I want to know if there is anyone out there who has purchased and installed the headers FFR sells for an LS 3 engine in a roadster? I have an LS 3 in my roadster and wonder if that is the best option. I'm guessing there are no other headers out there "made to fit" such an application. Of course a good machine shop can custom build them.

  2. #2
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    I'm using 5.3 truck headers turned to point forward on my LS1 roadster. I fabbed an undercar exhaust, but it would be easy enough to make a connection to the sidepipes from there as well.

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    LS1, TKO600, IRS, no scoop, undercar exhaust. Delivered June 14, 2017, First start December 31, 2017, Registered and Titled Sept 12, 2019.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    I want to know if there is anyone out there who has purchased and installed the headers FFR sells for an LS 3 engine in a roadster? I have an LS 3 in my roadster and wonder if that is the best option. I'm guessing there are no other headers out there "made to fit" such an application. Of course a good machine shop can custom build them.
    If you are using the FFR LS mounting package the headers are probably the way to go. Otherwise, having just gone through this situation myself, I would recommend finding a shop local who will build the headers on the car.

  4. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Dennis,

    If Factory-5 sells a header for the LS application then that is likely the best and easiest option.

    Steve

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    The FFR LS Roadster exhaust is 4 into 4, stainless steel, 47mm (1.85") OD primaries, formed ball collector with O2 bung, and polished. I believe (Please verify) they shaped them based off an LS block to the 4.6L Ford mount using a single plate adapter. I don't believe it is a two piece sliding adapter and probably about 1/8" thick. I don't know how yours is mounted but hopefully this may give you an idea where the engine sat when they designed their headers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
    If you are using the FFR LS mounting package the headers are probably the way to go. Otherwise, having just gone through this situation myself, I would recommend finding a shop local who will build the headers on the car.
    Hoooper, thanks for your response. Why would you have a shop build them? A local shop wants $2500 for them. FFR's are $850.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Hoooper, thanks for your response. Why would you have a shop build them? A local shop wants $2500 for them. FFR's are $850.
    I was saying using the FFR headers would be the way to go. Otherwise, if you arent using FFR headers (I completely changed the engine location so FFRs wouldnt work) having a local shop would be the better option. $2,500 is an outrageous price for custom headers to side pipes in this vehicle. Maybe in some difficult tight engine bay or for complete set including side pipes, but not for just headers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
    I was saying using the FFR headers would be the way to go. Otherwise, if you arent using FFR headers (I completely changed the engine location so FFRs wouldnt work) having a local shop would be the better option. $2,500 is an outrageous price for custom headers to side pipes in this vehicle. Maybe in some difficult tight engine bay or for complete set including side pipes, but not for just headers.
    Hoooper,
    Thanks for the clarification. I really don't have any other option. I'm curious as to whether you had your headers ceramic coated. It looks like it's going to cost $350-$400. i wonder if others think it is worth it. From what I've seen online, stainless headers run about 870 degrees and ceramic headers on the same engine registered a mere 258 degrees. That would significantly reduce engine bay temps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Hoooper,
    Thanks for the clarification. I really don't have any other option. I'm curious as to whether you had your headers ceramic coated. It looks like it's going to cost $350-$400. i wonder if others think it is worth it. From what I've seen online, stainless headers run about 870 degrees and ceramic headers on the same engine registered a mere 258 degrees. That would significantly reduce engine bay temps.
    I am still in my build but I am going to be ceramic coating my headers and pipes black. The heat will be a bonus but the color is my main reason

  10. #10

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
    (I completely changed the engine location so FFRs wouldn't work.)
    Assuming you moved your engine forward, then how far forward did you place your LS Engine within the chassis?
    Is the engine centered (Front to Rear) with the side pipe body openings?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Assuming you moved your engine forward, then how far forward did you place your LS Engine within the chassis?
    Is the engine centered (Front to Rear) with the side pipe body openings?
    I moved it BACK as far as possible while still fitting the TR-6060 with the factory trans tunnel upper front brace. It is about 2" to the passenger side. The side pipe openings are about even with the furthest forward exhaust port. There is a 7.5" diameter dry sump tank between the front of the thermostat, which is on the front of the water pump, and the upright x member. You can sort of see in this picture the location

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    Last edited by Hoooper; 02-02-2021 at 03:04 PM.

  12. #12

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I was hoping you might be able to Cheat-A-Little on the headers like I did for my SBC set up.

    https://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/im...modified4.html

    I used the SBC version Schoenfeld #161-33 on my car.

    Schoenfeld may be able to assist you with flanges, tubing, bends & collectors.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-02-2021 at 04:56 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member jkrueger's Avatar
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    I used LS3 (BBK #40200 for a 2010 Camaro) headers on my LM7 and now 6.0L block in my Daytona. I mounted the headers so they dumped forward and made a short "J" pipe from the header to side pipes. I bought the flanges and exhaust pipe from Summit and cut and fitted it my self. When I put the 6.0L in I cut off the collector flange and re-mounted it at a better angle so it didn't come so close to the frame rail. I haven't yet, but I plan to send them out to get ceramic coated as well.

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    Last edited by jkrueger; 02-03-2021 at 09:59 AM.
    Factory Five Type-65 Coupe:"Race Spec" coupe, Ordered 1/12, picked-up 5/12, roller 5/12, first start 10/12, finished 4/13
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  14. #14
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    Now that FFR sells headers that work with the side pipes, side pipe opening locations, and the motor mounts I really dont see a reason to use anything else unless you are planning to create your own setup/locations like I did.

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