BeePea's Build Thread! - Heater Question

[BeePea]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

[JB in NOVA]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Yep, I had the same problem. I replaced those with slightly narrower stainless steel bolts that slid through the retainer rings more easily. You can see one of them in the bottom right of this picture:

[NYMike]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Yep. Same problem here as well. Ours were close enough that we were able to thread the bolts through them as if they were tapped. Not ideal but it worked.

[BeePea]

Interesting, thank you both. I need a portal to the local Ace to save me 5 min of driving each way.

Anyone know what the record visits in a day is? I have hit 3, I'm sure there are many more than that.

[NYMike]

Interesting, thank you both. I need a portal to the local Ace to save me 5 min of driving each way.

Anyone know what the record visits in a day is? I have hit 3, I'm sure there are many more than that.

Wouldn't that be nice... Would be a perfect job for a hopefully soon to be completed roadster.

[Blitzboy54]

My black fuel strap bolts are too large to fit through the fuel strap ring, is that something others have seen as well?

Same as the others. Although JB has BY FAR the better solution I reamed the holes with a drill bit to clear out some of the powder coat and re formed the strap hole a bit with a hammer.

I wish I had asked the question because smaller bolts is clearly a better solution.

[egchewy79]

I got a cheap ball joint socket (It's a chrysler 59/64" socket) on amazon for like $20 and used an air impact wrench to remove it. I had a 2' breaker bar waiting on standby just in case. Applying some heat with a torch helps as well. If you run a wire wheel to remove the black coating on the BJ threads it slides in easily.

[BeePea]

Actual updates and not just questions!

Been making good progress on the build. Trying to keep up with Mike and Jessie's build pace, but it's not possible!

Like most, I've been in a tough space with my POL list, limited to no suspension parts and my box 15 (gas tank) was given to the wrong person, so it had to be mailed back to MA, then back over to WA where I am. On the good news front, I got my IRS parts and my box 15 this week, so I am looking forward to completing those parts where I can.

What I've been doing in the meantime...

Picked up a triple reservoir from Summit, fabricated a bracket, and mounted it. At first I wanted to run the hoses behind the bracket to keep it looking clean, but the more I think about it I think maybe it would be better to run them under the reservoir so I can access it later if needed.





Got my differential vent hose installed with vent cap, still need to clean up some of the POR that broke through my painters tape.



I've had some real issues with the Mevotech ball joint getting in place, so I picked up the Moog K772 ball joints. I test fit one and it fit so perfect I wanted to cry.



I now need to take my other UCA and back out the evil Mevotech ball joint (with blue loctite), it took heaven and earth to get it threaded 90% of the way in before it wouldn't go anymore, I can't wait to try and get it back out. Going to look for some loctite remover, leverage a hairdryer, and rent a ball joint socket to try and tackle it all.

Since I've had to wait for a lot of stuff I've been working my panels. It was at this point where I thought it was starting to look like a car.



For some reason the paint didn't come out great on the outer rear panels, but then I remembered that this will all be covered and all I'm doing is protecting the metal at this point.

Drop trunk installed, I did so a little too far back and thus couldn't get the the drop trunk lip over the hole I cut to rivet it in, however I did manager to get it square under the vertical line from the upper trunk, so what I will do is cut out a vertical piece of metal from my firewall and use that as my entire back trunk wall, this will give the appearance that from the upper trunk it will just go straight down to the bottom. (plus it will all be covered in carpet)



Thank you everyone for reading and providing input as well as answering my questions!

Blake

[Railroad]

Just a caution, the fluid level of the reservoirs needs to higher than your master cylinders.
I cannot see your master cylinders, but most reservoirs usually end up somewhere close to the top square tube.
Nice work on your car.

[BeePea]

Just a caution, the fluid level of the reservoirs needs to higher than your master cylinders.
I cannot see your master cylinders, but most reservoirs usually end up somewhere close to the top square tube.
Nice work on your car.

Thank you, I eyeballed that today and I felt good about it, but I'll confirm it tomorrow to be sure!

[BeePea]

For the life of me I cannot get my knuckles into the lower control arms in my IRS, getting the control arms needed a lot of help from my dead blow hammer, but the knuckle can pivot and it's just not going in. Any suggests would be much appreciated.

[NYMike]

For the life of me I cannot get my knuckles into the lower control arms in my IRS, getting the control arms needed a lot of help from my dead blow hammer, but the knuckle can pivot and it's just not going in. Any suggests would be much appreciated.

We struggled for a while with that and then I got mad and bent the tabs on the lower control arms out a bit with an adjustable wrench. Freaked my dad out and probably not the best thing to do, but it worked and the bolts sucked it back together.

[BeePea]

We struggled for a while with that and then I got mad and bent the tabs on the lower control arms out a bit with an adjustable wrench. Freaked my dad out and probably not the best thing to do, but it worked and the bolts sucked it back together.

For better or worse, that worked!

[Fman]

I had to use a spreader rod on many of the connections, they will pull back together when tightened down.

[BeePea]

Can people check out the drivers IRS side install? All finger tight until I get the okay from you all.

[NYMike]

Looks like ours. You might want to get the hubs installed before you lock everything down. You may not be able to get to the bolts in the back easily with the axle shaft in the way.

[BeePea]

Looks like ours. You might want to get the hubs installed before you lock everything down. You may not be able to get to the bolts in the back easily with the axle shaft in the way.

Thanks for the tip, I had stud issues on the spindle today, need to get the hardware I've seen posted here, then I'll install the spindle/hub

[BeePea]

Am I using the wrong hardware here? I cannot get this in and I'm using the forum tricks I saw here previously. It just spins out of my vice when I try to crank it down to pull it through.

[NYMike]

They're really tough to draw in like the manual suggests. We tried it and gave up and used a hydraulic press. Do you have a piece of pipe or a deep socket that can fit over the threaded portion of the stud? Not sure if it will be strong enough but you might be able to use your vice to squeeze the studs in against the pipe like a press. This is how we set up ours.

[D Stand]

F5D11C12-9803-4CBE-979A-0A47FF739581.jpeg

Am I using the wrong hardware here? I cannot get this in and I'm using the forum tricks I saw here previously. It just spins out of my vice when I try to crank it down to pull it through.

If you want to bring your parts up here to Bothell, I would gladly help you press them in.

Dale

[edwardb]

I've done a number of these. I assume you're using a socket wrench to turn the nut and draw them in? I tried that once. When I applied enough pressure to where I thought it would move, came out of the vise every time. Didn't matter how tight I tried to make it and at some point I don't like messing up parts in a vise. I did two things that worked for me: (1) Liberally coated the washers and nuts with grease. Plain old chassis grease works fine. (2) Used an air impact wrench. Doesn't have to be in the vise in fact works better if you don't. I just push it into a couple of rags holding by hand and the impact wrench pulls them right in. Short of that, I'd get them pressed in. Can't go wrong that way.

[BeePea]

Thanks everyone for the replies and confirming I'm not crazy. Going up to D Stands place here soon to talk shop and get these guys installed.

[jiriza84641]

Looks good!

[BeePea]

Updates!

Got the IRS fully installed, thanks to the forum for help there! All bolts are torqued, I did my best on the four bolts from the spindle to the hub, space was limited there.

If folks recall, I had gotten the FFR supplied ball joint into its socket about 85% of the way (with blue thread locker), and getting to that 85% was a real struggle. Well I went and bought the Moog ball joints and tested it on my open socket and it went in like butter, now to remove the other ball joint. I ended up buying from Amazon a ball joint socked (local auto stores did not have them to rent) and between it, two vices, and my torque wrench, I was able to free it from the socket. Used a paper towel to wipe the inside threads clean, dropped the Moog ball joint in and it went in without a problem. Yay!

Went over and met D Stand, he lives about 30 min away and we talked Cobra shop for a bit, he was able to help me press my studs into the hubs, was much appreciated for the help and we had a good chat about his build and what he has learned.

I've mounted the rear Wilwoods and put all the pieces together, things looked to fit fine with shims, am I missing something here or is this normal? I've taken it all apart again and just put in the red threadlocker to mount the hat to the rotor. I'll give that a day to dry (overkill I know) then do they safety wire (also overkill, I know).

I've got all my main panels done (prepped, fitted, drilled, and painted) and am getting close to permanently attaching the trunk metal so that I can mount the gas tank. Notorious JK trunk mod installed as well. In the tank is the Holley 340 in-tank fuel punk from Forte.

Also got my front battery mount, that is being painted before install, and I ordered a set of Hot Rod Fuel lines, and fittings, as well as the Breeze radiator products and offset bushings for the powersteering rack.

Lots of progress and I'm feeling good about where I'm at!

[BeePea]

I forgot to ask, I need a third 90 degree barbed fitting for my triple reservoir, where I can pick one up? On a similar note, do people normally connect at the bottom of the reservoir so it can be maintained with the body on, or behind it for ease of connection to the footbox and cleaner lines?

[toadster]

I forgot to ask, I need a third 90 degree barbed fitting for my triple reservoir, where I can pick one up? On a similar note, do people normally connect at the bottom of the reservoir so it can be maintained with the body on, or behind it for ease of connection to the footbox and cleaner lines?

I sometimes get parts from Summit, but recently Amazon has had some good deals and it shows up in a day, depending on the size that you need

Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs

my connections are on the bottom of the reservoir, I used the 90-deg parts to keep the lines from getting too close to heat sources

[BeePea]

I sometimes get parts from Summit, but recently Amazon has had some good deals and it shows up in a day, depending on the size that you need

Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs

my connections are on the bottom of the reservoir, I used the 90-deg parts to keep the lines from getting too close to heat sources

ordered, thank you!

[Blitzboy54]

I've mounted the rear Wilwoods and put all the pieces together, things looked to fit fine with shims, am I missing something here or is this normal? I've taken it all apart again and just put in the red threadlocker to mount the hat to the rotor. I'll give that a day to dry (overkill I know) then do they safety wire (also overkill, I know).

Shims are definitely normal. If you add a picture I can take a look, but I used them to get my calipers centered in the back

[BeePea]

Shims are definitely normal. If you add a picture I can take a look, but I used them to get my calipers centered in the back

Here is my caliper without shims mounted.

[BeePea]

I ended up adding one set of shims to the caliper mounting posts and that did help the rotor glide when turned

[jiriza84641]

I added shims to raise the caliper, it was hitting the rotor when turning it by hand. it looks like you won't need the shims, so take another look at it and turn rotor by hand to verify you have no drag!!

[Blitzboy54]

The pic they look slightly out of center. Once shim is probably right

[BeePea]

no drag on the brake calipers, just the parking break, which the instructions say is the way to go? Seems odd to me, I must be missing something. Should I install the parking brake cables before or after the engine/trans install? Or does it not matter?

[BeePea]

Another question, should I try to adjust my rear camber now, or is that something to wait on for me to get the car off the jack stands and on the ground?

[edwardb]

Another question, should I try to adjust my rear camber now, or is that something to wait on for me to get the car off the jack stands and on the ground?

Does Factory Five have some starting dimensions in the manual? (I don't remember plus mine are not very new.) If so, use those for starters. But beyond that, no, don't try to adjust. Means very little unless you're on the ground at ride height. Same for the front BTW.

[BeePea]

Does Factory Five have some starting dimensions in the manual? (I don't remember plus mine are not very new.) If so, use those for starters. But beyond that, no, don't try to adjust. Means very little unless you're on the ground at ride height. Same for the front BTW.

Got it, I'll double check for initial alignment. What about the parking brake cables, should those go in now, or after the engine/trans install? Maybe it doesn't matter?

[edwardb]

Got it, I'll double check for initial alignment. What about the parking brake cables, should those go in now, or after the engine/trans install? Maybe it doesn't matter?

Technically doesn't matter. But probably a little easier before the engine/trans is in place. Easier to hook up the cables at the handle. Gets pretty tight in the tunnel with the transmission occupying most of the available space.

[BeePea]

Technically doesn't matter. But probably a little easier before the engine/trans is in place. Easier to hook up the cables at the handle. Gets pretty tight in the tunnel with the transmission occupying most of the available space.

Great, thanks!

[BeePea]

Fuel line routing question:

is it okay to run my fuel line in this fashion, then up on the outside of the frame tube?

[BeePea]

Installed front brake lines. Will mount them to frame later today or tomorrow, it can sit flush no problem, and will once mounted.

Was real dumb and had the brass connector past my bend on my first bend, so I pushed it back to somewhat straight to move the fitting back to the end, then re-bent it. Looks a little chewed up, but not too bad (and hidden).