Brandon's 818R Build

[RPGs818SNA]

I had to cut ½” off the welded rod, but only on the passenger side, to get to the recommended street values of -0.62 camber and 3.5 caster. Weird.

My best discovery was that I could adjust the caster and camber by measuring from the spindle nipple to the firewall or frame. Reducing the nipple to frame distance by 0.03” increases the negative camber by 0.1 degrees. Reducing the nipple to firewall distance by 0.03” increases the caster by 0.1 degrees. With that information I could measure camber, determine what change I wanted, figure out how far to move the spindle, move it, and measure again, and be pretty close. Adjusting caster is the same, except when adjusting the turnbuckles, you have to keep the distance to the frame the same so as to not change the camber.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is a picture of my Upper A_Arm when I was at the same point as you. In hindsight, I wish I had put two small holes in each turn-buckle so i could verify I was getting enough thread engagement.

a_arm.jpg

[blomb11]

Thanks Bob for the feedback super helpful! I may add the holes because I was wondering that same thing during my adjustments. I am going to star with -2* camber all around and adjust from there. On the fronts I need the negative camber to try to clear the 235 tires. I think I am still going to have to trim the inside of the fenders or raise the car up another 0.25".

[blomb11]

It feels like it took forever to get the car aligned. Well it was pretty out of whack and then had to review the forum on how to cut the UCA links. I cut off 0.5” from both welded rods, 0.25” from both rear threaded rods on both sides, cut both long links by 0.25”, and then both short links by 0.5”. I don’t think cutting the short links was completely necessary. I built wooden blocks with Masonite panels to allow the adjustments to be easier. I also picked up a wheel alignment kit from Amazon which seemed to work well. Getting the strings set up the first time was tedious, but now I know the distances so it’s easy to setup. Which I did about 5 times ha. I was able to get it set with an initial alignment and will see how it feels after a shake down. I ordered 12mm spacers so the rear so I can adjust the rear bump. With 10mm spacers I am stuck because there is only a 0.018” gap between the wheels and each rear trailing arm. The lower lateral arms are not parallel so hopefully the spacers will let me even them out.

Alignment specs:
Front left and right
Caster = 4.9*
Camber = -2.0*
Toe (in) = -0.036”

Rear left and right
Caster
Camber = -2.0*
Toe (in) = -0.0625”

I also got the rear license plate frame and lights installed as I get ready to begin the registration process.

IMG_0585.jpg IMG_0586.jpg IMG_0600.jpg IMG_0601.jpg

[driveslikejehu]

With folks talking about clearance, I had to remind myself what I did. I can’t remember how the VCP modified trailing arm is supposed to go but I ended up offsetting the front of the trailing arm as shown to clear the tire. I cut one of the spacers, and there's a washer on the inside between the lug and bushing.
On the rear I ended up with 5mm spacers instead of 10 to give clearance to the fenders, with 245/40-17. I was fighting fender to engine cover gap and tire clearance.
Maybe its jacked up, but it only changed the trailing arm geometry ~1.5deg and I have clearance thru full range of motion.
trailing arm offset.jpg

[blomb11]

My issue is the upper arm maybe I am calling it by the wrong name. The lower VCP trailing arm I clear no problem with 10mm spacers but it’s the upper that I need to get more clearance from. There are too many adjustments!

[Bicyclops]

I had to push the upper arm (and the trailing arm too) over all the way with the spacers on the outboard side much like Jehu is showing for his. The length of the upper one is what parallels the lateral arms.

Ed

[blomb11]

That’s actually a better idea than using larger wheel spacers. I followed the manual too closely and didn’t think outside the box like you both. I will give it a shot.

I drove the car around the block and it feels pretty solid but I didn’t get up past 40 mph. The negative camber in the front helps a lot but the 235s still rub turning. Especially a high speed corner I imagine it will run more. I am still considering sanding down the inner lip on the front fender to add clearance.

[Bicyclops]

Outside of the box is pretty much where I live if only because I have so little automotive build experience. I don't even really know what I don't know.

I've got 215/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S on 18x8 Enkei TS10 wheels with 45 offset and 10mm spacers and I rub on the inside at full lock. Outside no problem. I'm running 255/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S rear on 18x9.5 x 45 TS-10 and 12mm spacers. My closest to rub is my Caddy Brembos and the upper arm right at the rim on the rears. I've got aftermarket tubular trailing arms and I even bent them a little more for clearance. I think I could actually get 275s in there. Incidentally, we test fit my wheels on my nephew's build and his OEM bent metal trailing arms actually have a little more clearance than mine. Surprised me.

As for spacers, others have said - and I think it's pretty important - you must have extended studs. I used the ARP 12x1.5 set meant for a Mitsubishi Evo, I think.

I need to do some autocross to find out if I really need more tire patch. I haven't really been able to break it loose. We did some super twisties today and I ate my buddy's Cobra up. This on a road he's done dozens of times and it was my first. He's got a ton more low end torque, but can't stay with me in the corners and I'm still just learning how to drive this car. ;-)

Ed

[blomb11]

Outside of the box is pretty much where I live if only because I have so little automotive build experience. I don't even really know what I don't know.

I've got 215/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S on 18x8 Enkei TS10 wheels with 45 offset and 10mm spacers and I rub on the inside at full lock. Outside no problem. I'm running 255/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S rear on 18x9.5 x 45 TS-10 and 12mm spacers. My closest to rub is my Caddy Brembos and the upper arm right at the rim on the rears. I've got aftermarket tubular trailing arms and I even bent them a little more for clearance. I think I could actually get 275s in there. Incidentally, we test fit my wheels on my nephew's build and his OEM bent metal trailing arms actually have a little more clearance than mine. Surprised me.

As for spacers, others have said - and I think it's pretty important - you must have extended studs. I used the ARP 12x1.5 set meant for a Mitsubishi Evo, I think.

I need to do some autocross to find out if I really need more tire patch. I haven't really been able to break it loose. We did some super twisties today and I ate my buddy's Cobra up. This on a road he's done dozens of times and it was my first. He's got a ton more low end torque, but can't stay with me in the corners and I'm still just learning how to drive this car. ;-)

Ed

Nice! I want to get the car out on the road to really drive it and see how it feels.

I have the extended lugs and VCP trailing arms on the rear. I am going to try flipping the upper trailing arm spacers tomorrow night to see if that helps before trying the 12mm spacers. Hopefully then I can increase the upper arm length to even out the adjustable lower lateral links. On the fronts with 235s at full lock the wheels hit the firewall on both sides so I need to install the lock rings I have to limit the travel. Fine tuning at this point which is a cool stage to get to.

I have Enkei TSV 17x8 +38 with 235s on the fronts and 18x9.5 +38 with 265s on the rears.

[Bicyclops]

The 38mm offset is more in line with reality so you can probably get by with less spacer as long as you can clear the calipers. I was looking to do 17s in the front but couldn't find matching brand/model tires for the rear. I know that pure racers will scoff at my Michelins, but they are sticking pretty well on these canyon roads and I don't worry too much when I cross the fairly frequent wet patches. So far the 215s have been plenty on the front and the only time I rub them is when I do a u-turn. I usually end up with a t-turn. Oh well. The skinny sidewalls seem to help with grip in the turns. I don't feel any flex, but I do feel every pebble and crack for sure. Saw a rock the size of a head on the road yesterday. Wouldn't want to try that one. Easy enough to drive around it fortunately. There's been a lot of road closures from mud and rock slides around here lately. Canyon roads + rain. I'll probably complain when it dries out and gets hot.

Getting it pretty much complete enough drive a lot really is a different world. You're gonna love it. This really is a supercar on a budget. Mine will never have the fit and finish of a McLaren or a Ferrari and would get smoked by them anyway, or maybe even by a good driver in a Boxster, but for the bucks? I'm having fun. Getting tuned next week. Gonna do E85 flex fuel.

Ed

[blomb11]

I have the jug filled with E85 sitting in the garage. I need to add it in and see how much of a difference that goes. On 91 the car already pulls hard so I assume it will be even crazier with E85 on board! I need more space than the neighborhood to try it though

[Bicyclops]

Unless it's tuned for it and a flex fuel sensor telling the ECU real time ethanol content, it'll be maybe 30% too lean.

Ed

[blomb11]

I offset the spacers outboard on the connection of the upper trailing arm to the rear spindle. I now have a 0.25” of clearance from the link to the wheel which is awesome! No need for 12mm spacers just had to think outside the manual (thanks again). I also adjust the rear bump to be 0.15* in (rear lateral link lower than front link). The alignment is all set for now until a shakedown or more miles.

[blomb11]

Well the P0021 cam position timing error CEL came back and I sent a data log to my tuner to confirm I need to check the oil filter screens on the AVCS oiling lines. I checked the one to the turbo oil feed when I was rebuilding but I didn’t know Subaru has a service bulletin that says to remove the oil screens. Oh well this was my first engine rebuild. I am going to have to remove the intake manifold and the rear timing cover to get to them. Kind of a pain and a setback.