Need some opinions

[33fromSD]

I have BluePrint 302 engine w/ a Tremec T5 in my 33, when I was under the car this morning checking out the shocks I noticed a drip of oil (Bluish in color due to the break in oil) on the bell housing. Only a drip, not even a spot on the floor.

It's not coming from tine intake or valve covers up top which leaves rear main, cam seal, oil galley plug or fly wheel bolts behind the bell housing. Also not coming from the oil pan. The issue is there is no quick access panel in the bell house plate, BP never installed one and I'm not sure why. I'm going to remove the starter this weekend and use an endoscope camera to see if I can figure out where its coming from. just being dead center in the bell housing though I'm guessing rear main.

To the more experienced engine builders is it possible that the seal has not sealed yet and due to only have a little over 100 miles on it, is this something that could cure itself or do I have the start of a bigger issue?

Not sure what I'm going to do yet, I'd rather not rip out the whole engine / tranny (disassembling half the car to do it) if I don't have to. BP of course is telling me to pull the tranny and look behind the engine, normally that is easy, but in this car, not so much.

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Jim

[cob427sc]

I have BluePrint 302 engine w/ a Tremec T5 in my 33, when I was under the car this morning checking out the shocks I noticed a drip of oil (Bluish in color due to the break in oil) on the bell housing. Only a drip, not even a spot on the floor.

It's not coming from tine intake or valve covers up top which leaves rear main, cam seal, oil galley plug or fly wheel bolts behind the bell housing. Also not coming from the oil pan. The issue is there is no quick access panel in the bell house plate, BP never installed one and I'm not sure why. I'm going to remove the starter this weekend and use an endoscope camera to see if I can figure out where its coming from. just being dead center in the bell housing though I'm guessing rear main.

To the more experienced engine builders is it possible that the seal has not sealed yet and due to only have a little over 100 miles on it, is this something that could cure itself or do I have the start of a bigger issue?

Not sure what I'm going to do yet, I'd rather not rip out the whole engine / tranny (disassembling half the car to do it) if I don't have to. BP of course is telling me to pull the tranny and look behind the engine, normally that is easy, but in this car, not so much.

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Jim

The leak could be any of the above mentioned sources but my experience is it most likely is the rear main seal. It won't be easy to locate the actual source with the engine/transmission attached due to the lack of visibility in there even with your scope. Additionally, unless the engine was just run it will be hard to distinguish the source as the oil will quickly run away down the block. There are dye materials that can be added to the oil to help locate the leak. Personally, I would run the car for at least several hundred miles and see if it goes away/gets worse before tearing the car apart.

[33fromSD]

The leak could be any of the above mentioned sources but my experience is it most likely is the rear main seal. It won't be easy to locate the actual source with the engine/transmission attached due to the lack of visibility in there even with your scope. Additionally, unless the engine was just run it will be hard to distinguish the source as the oil will quickly run away down the block. There are dye materials that can be added to the oil to help locate the leak. Personally, I would run the car for at least several hundred miles and see if it goes away/gets worse before tearing the car apart.

That's my thinking too....I have a 3 year warranty on the engine from BP so I may just run it this year before I store it and all the way through next year and if it is still there then pull the motor / tranny next winter. I'm "hoping" it cures itself though. Not a bad leak at all, just annoying knowing the car is brand new.

BP already has a documented ticket started on it for tracking.

Jim

[mburger]

You are positive it isn’t the very rear of the valve covers? (Sorry, had to ask) I didn’t think mine were leaking and was thinking the worst, but double checked the far back side and sure enough, a small leak that worked it’s way down with a single drop.
BTW, nothing to do with your issue, all BP oil is blue, not just the break in. No idea why.

[33fromSD]

You are positive it isn’t the very rear of the valve covers? (Sorry, had to ask) I didn’t think mine were leaking and was thinking the worst, but double checked the far back side and sure enough, a small leak that worked it’s way down with a single drop.
BTW, nothing to do with your issue, all BP oil is blue, not just the break in. No idea why.

100% Positive it's not from the valve covers or intake, I had to take pics for BP to document the issue for their files so I attached them here too.

I wish it were from up top.

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Jim

[narly1]

Finding any potential fluid leaks is partly the reason why I am planning to run my engine on a stand before it gets anywhere near a car.

Also check for leakage around the "feet" of the rear main cap where it mates with the block.

Earl

[33fromSD]

Finding any potential fluid leaks is partly the reason why I am planning to run my engine on a stand before it gets anywhere near a car.

Also check for leakage around the "feet" of the rear main cap where it mates with the block.

Earl

Hey Earl

Not sure that would have helped in this situation. When I installed the engine in the car, I did the suggested 30 minute break-in from BP running the engine at varying RPMs throughout. No leaks, then I go-karted it several times before the body was put on, no leaks. All of the above would have been the right time to easily pull the engine if there were leaks, but there were none.

I also know at mile #50 (I now have 100+ on the car) I put it up on the lift and checked various bolt torques as well as did a walk through looking for leaks, there was nothing seen.

Given what I mention above, an engine run stand would not have done me any good. I actually have one when I do my own engine rebuilds but in this case, the chassis became the engine run stand.

I should also clarify, this is not a drip, drip, drip type of leak, it's one oil drop on the bell housing every time I run the car, that's it, nothing more. Nothing ever on the floor, oil spray / splatter elsewhere underneath the car.

Jim

[svassh]

Hey its an old car, they all leaked in 1933

[narly1]

Also worth checking that your PCV house is in order and that you don't have internal pressure building up somewhere that's forcing oil outwards.

Earl

[ProStreet1]

What oil, weight wise do they use or suggest during break in and what weight oil do you have intentions on running? The current oil synthetic?

[cob427sc]

I have a 1958 Buick Nailhead in mine and the rear seal leaks all the time. Old Buick mechanics tell me it's normal, that's why they put a drip hole in the bottom of the torque convertor cover. It does make a small puddle whenever I stop but most annoying is the fine mist of oil that has covered the undercarriage after a couple hundred miles.