Success Power brakes

[Chef818]

After multiple upgrades on my manual brakes, I decided to go with power brakes and could not be happier with the result. Now the stopping power matches the acceleration.
2003 donor with Ej207 version 7
Initially I updated the stock calipers with EBS yellow stuff, better but not there.
Upgraded with equal front and rear calipers with DBA rear rotors and stock brake pads
Added Yellow stuff on the rear
Was decent but when you come in hot on a sharp turn, the brake effort was too much as you were also navigating the turn. (Upgrading to smaller steering wheel soon as you need to shift hand position to make sharp turn)
I decided to add back brake booster. I thought about the difference between JDM and USDM cars and found that a JDM brake master cylinder has the brake line connection on the other side, so I purchased one with the brake booster. A note is I would probably use a USDM booster as the vacuum line is on the right which is easier to plumb. This is wayyyyyy easier to do as you build and not go back like I did. Windshield, molding, dash board, steering column and loosening sway bar, brake pedals and clutch master cylinder to get it in. Re-routing brake lines. The triangle piece needs some love with a hammer to bow it out to make it fit. The bolts for the booster needed to be cut down to facilitate fitment at a sideways angle. Once it was in I needed to fix the threads and the tool needed to be cut down to get into the area. Initially I used the stock brake pedal hole and made a new one about 3/4” closer. Once it was all done and bled, there was no pedal travel and bakes were almost fully engaged and was hard to move the car.
Note: possibly a spacer between brake booster and firewall. I had to screw in the clevis all the way and the screw hit the brake pedal, so I had to cut it off. The clevis hole on the brake pedal is now about 1 1/2” diagonally down towards the driver. This could be a factor to making the brake feel good as you are doing opposite of the manual and this makes slightly more pedal effort to make the brakes less “twitchy”
All in all the brakes work and feel like a modern car, there is confidence in its ability, they are direct with minimal effort. The braking matches the acceleration. 969F638A-CF90-4B4D-B4F4-E61587B115F3.jpg

[carnutdave]

I tried something very similar when initially installing my brakes (JDM power booster & master cylinder, cut down studs for maneuvering clearance). I got everything to fit nicely but my sticking point was the length of the pushrod that threads onto the clevis. I found it was way too long and I would've had to cut it down and continue the threading further down the shaft to line up with the existing hole in the pedal. You mention moving that hole and I'm guessing that's how you overcame that issue? I ended up abandoning it because I didn't want to go too crazy with it. We'll see if I think it was a good decision or not because I haven't driven the car past go-cart stage. Have the paperwork into the MVC and trying to get street legal.

[maclonchas]

Can you take a few more pictures of the brake pedal arrangement that you described. I am trying to picture what you are saying here and a picture would go a long ways.

Thanks

Bill