10" adjustable tube, front lower suspension 35 truck

[davidshearme]

I have checked twice with FFR and they assure me that the tube is 10" and not the 11" as stated in the build manual. With the bushing sleeves correctly oriented and the caster(7 degrees) and camber (-.50)set to spec, both rod end threads are extended to their max and very close to falling out. What am I missing here?
I also built the 33 Hot Rod and the adjustable tubes on it are 11" and have them set to spec without issue.

[Pat Landymore]

I’m wondering if you have a set of the older “short tab” bushings? That would make your suspension tubes an inch short.

The short ones that I have left over measure like this:

83C7ED78-8BE2-4F49-9363-B45299FE452F.jpg

The new ones have a tab that’s an inch longer so everything works out.

Hope this helps

[davidshearme]

Just checked the length of my tabs. The tab itself is 1-7/8" to the centre of the hole. Do you have the 10" or 11" adjustable tubes?

[Pat Landymore]

I have the 11” tubes…with the longer tabs as you have…hence my punk a$$ super negative camber as shown below. LOL 😂

Rather like it…not interested in disassembling suspension (for the fourth time) and cutting right now…there may be a few more drive to work mornings here. ( for what is worth… it was - 6C last here night… brrr 🥶 )

84429E48-EE3C-4C05-A47B-0A3C0FD3EDF7.jpeg

So honestly I have no idea what’s going on with yours…

[Pat Landymore]

I’d give FFR another call…

[davidshearme]

Thanks for your response Pat. I will carry on with trying to find a resolution even if I have to fabricate my own.
Great photo of your truck...looks menacing. Is it turboed and what engine?

[Pat Landymore]

Yes, it has an 88mm turbo on a 460 cube big block Chevy. Definitely a beast! 😁

[FFinisher]

This change was made with the GEN II hot rod chassis. Short tabs use long tubes, long tabs use short tubes. Simply put, if you have the foam floor, you should have long tabs and short tubes. If you do not have the Foam floor you should have short tabs and long tubes.

[FFinisher]

Just checked the length of my tabs. The tab itself is 1-7/8" to the centre of the hole. Do you have the 10" or 11" adjustable tubes?

1-7/8 tabs should have 10 inch tubes

[davidshearme]

Thank you for the confirmation. Your explanation is much clearer than the response from FFR tech support

[Pat Landymore]

Has anyone been able to achieve FFR’s stated camber specs with the long lower tabs plus the longer tubes and just have adjusters screwed in all the way?

My kit was an ‘earlier new style’ (sn# 0059) which means I have the foam floor but I initially received the short lower tabs and longer tubes; meaning I was unable to use the lower holes for desperately needed ground clearance.

After a few of us complained, I was shipped a set of the longer tabs. FFR never said anything to me about other tubes (or cutting) so just installed the long tabs assuming they had things figured out. Now I’m not sure…

Or if you cut yours, did you cut to the spec given in the FFR email? (that I never received BTW…) Those specs are 10” for the double threaded tube and ??? for the tube welded to the lower ball joint. One of the dimensions given in the email is a lot more than an inch difference…and that doesn’t make sense to me.

My truck is for sale but that doesn’t mean I’m not still working on it trying to make it better! 😁

Any and all input welcome.

Thanks!

Here is an image from the manual that came with my truck:

1AA800DC-6352-4CF5-9758-3193E6B5160F.jpeg


Here is an image from the FFR email I referred to:

612E9A80-5092-4CD5-945E-D137A3DE5907.png

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Pat, I am right there with you (ser#75), long tabs and tubes, too much camber - I think caster is OK but no more adjustment. going to see if I can cut tubes enough to get in spec and still have enough contact surface - I'll let you know

OK, got both passenger side CAs off, now to cut:
10" = ½ off each end, of the front CA
1" off the rear CA = leaves almost an inch of threads - seems like that should be enough?

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks for responding Mike.

I’m going to cut the right hand thread end only of my 11” tube by 1/2”. Can’t recall which thread the ball joint tube is…hoping right hand also. Way easier to find a tap if I need one. Will cut it by 1/2” also to start.

Good luck!

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Pat the rear CA is left hand, I do have the tap for it, going to screw in the tap past where I plan to cut; then back out to clean threads

(left hand tap info: GTD ¾ - 16 NF HS. H3 LH USA J2519) I can loan you the tap when I am done if needed I think it cost around $75.

[Pat Landymore]

Really appreciate the offer Mike. Problem is freight… to—-then back from Canada…would be at least $20-25 each way.

I have a local buddy that’s built a couple of rock crawler’s and thinks he has the correct sizes. He was actually here this morning going thru my left over AN fittings for a future trade.

Thanks again for the offer tho!! 👍🏼👍🏼

[Pat Landymore]

And thanks for the info re the tap and the rear LCA!

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Got the passenger side done; thankfully less drama than I was expecting. Cut ½ off each end of the now 10" arm, and a real short inch off the rear CA, used a hose clamp as a fence and cut with an angle grinder no thread issues.

[Pat Landymore]

That’s good news Mike!

And an awesome suggestion to use the hose clamp…will be borrowing that idea for sure. 💡👍🏼

Thanks!