It has begun, time to add another build to this forum that is a wealth of knowledge to everyone building one of these. Below are the details of my build:
Type 65 Complete Kit
Wilwood Brakes
Wood Steering Wheel
Carpet Kit
Nose Scoops
Side Windows
IRS 3.55 Center Section
Hydraulic Clutch, with Forte’s External Hydraulic Clutch Kit
Unpainted Frame
Heat and AC
Power Steering
Sparco Grid Q Seats - These will have custom leather covers that I plan on sewing. I plan on tying some HVAC ducts to each seat and making them heated and cooled, using metal grommets as the ventilation passage through the covers.
Parts to Order/Select
Gauges
Wheels and Tires
Fuel Safe Fuel Cell - I am still trying to decide if I am going to go this route. Not sure I can pass inspection with it, since they are not DOT approved.
Wipers - I am planning on using the Specialty Power Windows one
1972 Ford 351 Cleveland, bored to a 393 and stroked
- Heads - Trick Flow Power Port 195
- Valve Covers - Blue Thunder Competition Series covers
- Roller Rockers - Trick Flow, TFS-53400621
- Cam - Lunati Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam
- Grooved Cam Bearings - TMeyer
- Lifters - Street Performance Hydraulic Roller Lifters from Lunati
- Manifold - Edlebrock 7564
- EFI: MSD Atomic 2
- PRW billet steel flywheel
Scat Rotating assembly: 1-94412BE
- Scat 9000 series crank 3.85” stroke
- Scat forged steel I-beam rods
- Autotec forged pistons 4.030”
- Total Seal file to fit rings
- King main and rod bearings
- Scat harmonic dampener
Oil Pan and Pickup - Kevco F608 and F608-1
Melling M-84AHV
Rollmaster Timing Set
ARP hardware
TMeyer - Timing cover, distributor clamp, thermostat, pointer, and fuel block off.
March Performance Serpentine Kit
Ansen Air Cleaner
Kit ordered January 20th, 2022
Kit Received September 24th, 2022
I have a decent number of parts on the POL, but the main missing item is my hardware kit to attach everything. So I will be focusing on mounting sheet metal panels for a while.
How is everyone attaching their steering shaft flange bearing. Outside over the front footwell sheet metal, between the frame and front footwell sheet metal, or on the inside of the footbox mounted through the frame? The manual is not really clear.
Last edited by burchfieldb; 10-09-2022 at 11:05 AM.
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
Another fun Coupe build. Will be interested to watch. For the steering shaft flange bearing, I put mine on the inside of the footbox front. On the outside, the u-joint hit the bearing. Inside or outside doesn't matter once it's in place. Whatever fits the best. I don't know what to make of whatever that is on the Wilwood MC's. Doesn't look good. Hard to know what's inside although they're not hard to take apart. I'd sure be following up with Factory Five on those. Minor point -- you have 2.55 ratio on your IRS pumpkin in the first post. I'm sure you mean 3.55. (Not that I'm remotely immune from typos. )
Last edited by edwardb; 10-09-2022 at 11:58 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Another fun Coupe build. Will be interested to watch. For the steering shaft flange bearing, I put mine on the inside of the footbox front. On the outside, the u-joint to hit the bearing. Inside or outside doesn't matter once it's in place. Whatever fits the best. I don't know what to make of whatever that is on the Wilwood MC's. Doesn't look good. Hard to know what's inside although they're not hard to take apart. I'd sure be following up with Factory Five on those. Minor point -- you have 2.55 ratio on your IRS pumpkin in the first post. I'm sure you mean 3.55. (Not that I'm remotely immune from typos. )
I also got my kit a few weeks ago - making progress on aluminum panels until fasteners and a few other items arrive (got two left rear spindles and a 3-link rear fastener pack instead of IRS).
I was also going to start the pedal box, but noticed I'm missing is the brake and clutch switch mounts (p/n 14788 according to the manual). I didn't even see them on the inventory or POL. Did you get those with your kit?
I also got my kit a few weeks ago - making progress on aluminum panels until fasteners and a few other items arrive (got two left rear spindles and a 3-link rear fastener pack instead of IRS).
I was also going to start the pedal box, but noticed I'm missing is the brake and clutch switch mounts (p/n 14788 according to the manual). I didn't even see them on the inventory or POL. Did you get those with your kit?
Nope, I am also missing those. I don't think they were on my POL either. I had about a half of page of parts not on the POL.
I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.
Greetings fellow Buckeye, You definitely got my attention with the word Cleveland. I too am building one of the "other 351s" for a roadster. Your engine build seems lot like mine. I'm still in the parts gathering phase with it. I'm planning a 393 inch lower RPM pump gas engine. (like 10:1 and 5800 rpm max. )
I am curious as to your compression/cam specs.
Greetings fellow Buckeye, You definitely got my attention with the word Cleveland. I too am building one of the "other 351s" for a roadster. Your engine build seems lot like mine. I'm still in the parts gathering phase with it. I'm planning a 393 inch lower RPM pump gas engine. (like 10:1 and 5800 rpm max. )
I am curious as to your compression/cam specs.
I calculated 11:1 compression ratio, which is a little higher than I wanted. I called Trickflow about it, and they said the aluminum heads can handle it all day long. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have a whole spreadsheet with all of the parts I ordered for it. It took me a lot of digging and calls to vendors to find what I needed.
I calculated 11:1 compression ratio, which is a little higher than I wanted. I called Trickflow about it, and they said the aluminum heads can handle it all day long. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have a whole spreadsheet with all of the parts I ordered for it. It took me a lot of digging and calls to vendors to find what I needed.
Very good cam choice I think. Your engine sounds great. I have always been told that alum heads will tolerate a full point of compression more than iron heads due to it being able to absorb more heat and not have hot spots.
Please Keep us in the loop as what your fuel octane requirements are when road worthy.
Very good cam choice I think. Your engine sounds great. I have always been told that alum heads will tolerate a full point of compression more than iron heads due to it being able to absorb more heat and not have hot spots.
Please Keep us in the loop as what your fuel octane requirements are when road worthy.
I went with the raised port speedmaster heads. I bought the bare heads and using quality valve train parts. I've got more than a few weeks of work in my off time in these head castings. My Cam is a Howards hyd-Roller 232/240 @.050 .594/.611 lift 110 lobe separation. I haven't yet bought my rotating assembly. I'm shooting for 10.2 to 10.5 to 1 compression.
I went with the raised port speedmaster heads. I bought the bare heads and using quality valve train parts. I've got more than a few weeks of work in my off time in these head castings. My Cam is a Howards hyd-Roller 232/240 @.050 .594/.611 lift 110 lobe separation. I haven't yet bought my rotating assembly. I'm shooting for 10.2 to 10.5 to 1 compression.
Nice! You will likely want some pistons with more dish than I have or you will be in the same boat. Although you may be alright, since I have 60cc chambers and you have 64cc. Let me know if you use the Kevco oil pain and studs for the mains. You have to get a particular ARP stud to attach the oil pickup to. That one was a bit of a bear to get right. I also did the TMeyers oil galley modification and cam bearings, with a high volume oil pump. The oil pressure at idle is 85 psi and 100 psi when giving it gas, both at the front and back of the oil gallies. If you still need a water pump, I have an extra one that is new and painted black with Eastwood ceramic engine paint. I couldn't use it with my serpentine kit. If you are interested, I can get you the details on it and cost.
I was able to get some more time in the garage this weekend and managed to get the front suspension mocked up. I did use the Moog tie rod ends, they worked really well. I had a small issue with one of the lower ball studs spinning when putting the nut on, I end up chasing the threads and it went right on.
It's been a while since I posted, mainly been working on items that are already well documented on the forum and waiting for hardware. I got most of it, except for the long M16 IRS bolts. I ended up buying them from Bel Metric, got tired of waiting. They have a really nice selection and good prices. I decided to cover the top of the engine bay with aluminum, like others have done. Was able to get a
blade for nonferrous metals that I could use on my track saw. It made short work of it and cut like butter. My plan is to use dimpple dies to form around the metal holes for the reservoirs to come up through. I also decided to add some strength to the firewall by backing it up with 3x1.5 inch aluminum channel. This will support the wiper motor, my mechanical throttle linkage, power distribution blocks and the harnesses. 20230212_165045.jpg 20230212_165301.jpg
I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.
My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021. I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.
Made some headway this weekend and was able to get the engine in and got the body back on. Although it looks like I am going to have the same issue as Scott, my air cleaner is also sitting to high. 20230305_180702.jpg 20230305_180209.jpg
I also noticed that my oil filter is really close to the engine mount. Has anyone used the remote oil filter mount? I would be curious to hear about peoples experience with it? 20230305_180247.jpg
Made some headway this weekend and was able to get the engine in and got the body back on. Although it looks like I am going to have the same issue as Scott, my air cleaner is also sitting to high.
..........
I had honestly thought iImight get in the same spot. (Cleveland here as well. ) I thought maybe just something Just a bit bigger as in a "Boss 429 type" hood scoop?
I may in the same boat sometime in the future., so I have to ask What intake manifold are you running?? If you ever have the carb off please stick a straight edge off across the carb pad and get the measurements to the bottom ends F&R of the intake to block
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
I also noticed that my oil filter is really close to the engine mount. Has anyone used the remote oil filter mount? I would be curious to hear about peoples experience with it?
I've ran them on a few other vehicles, they are very nice lets you run the filter completely out of the way and horizontal for cleaner changes. Also lets you run the largest Ford filter the [FL-299 Motorcraft] = [Wix 51773[ = [Napa 1773](also a wix)
I had honestly thought iImight get in the same spot. (Cleveland here as well. ) I thought maybe just something Just a bit bigger as in a "Boss 429 type" hood scoop?
I may in the same boat sometime in the future., so I have to ask What intake manifold are you running?? If you ever have the carb off please stick a straight edge off across the carb pad and get the measurements to the bottom ends F&R of the intake to block
I've ran them on a few other vehicles, they are very nice lets you run the filter completely out of the way and horizontal for cleaner changes. Also lets you run the largest Ford filter the [FL-299 Motorcraft] = [Wix 51773[ = [Napa 1773](also a wix)
I am running the Edlebrock 7564 manifold. Although I have since found that there is a shorter one, which may have helped the situation. https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-...gine-2750.html. Although this one does not have the air gap and is more like the factory intake.
No plans to remove the efi throttle body, but I will see what measurements I can get.
I am running the Edlebrock 7564 manifold. Although I have since found that there is a shorter one, which may have helped the situation. https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-...gine-2750.html. Although this one does not have the air gap and is more like the factory intake.
No plans to remove the efi throttle body, but I will see what measurements I can get.
I have a used Edlebrock 2750 intake. It needs cleaned up bit if you are interested. PM me if so.
To add on to Cobra Daytona Build's aerodynamics work, I decided to tackle the back end and close off the wheel wells and the underside of the rear body. Right now I have done the cardboard/aluminum flashing templates and then will transfer this to aluminum panels. Let me know if anyone sees anything wrong with this, that I am not realizing?
More updates. I made some templates to close of the inside of the transmission tunnel. The plan is to use some low pressure polyurethane foam between the inner and outer panels to help with noise and heat.
I also decided to address the gas filler angle issue. I originally was looking at the Breeze locking cap, but wanted something less expensive and also something that changed the angle of the filler barb. I found a marine one on Amazon for $28 that has a 45 deg angle on the filler barb. This allows the tube to slip by the roll cage and go straight down to the tank filler neck elbow. I was able to disassemble the gas cap and chuck up the mount plate in the lathe, to cut off the straight barb, and make the hole larger for the new barb. I made a spacer to pull the filler up in the cap and to bring it further away from the roll cage bar. I put an o-ring around the filler barb and put one in a groove on the underside of the space, so gas can't leak down into the body.
Loving the clean up of the transmission tunnel. Well done! I am probably late to reply to this, but having attempted similar modifications in the transmission tunnel, the fill panels closest to to the seat belt mounts will interfere with the original inner aluminum panels. Also required bending a line in the original panel right behind that.
I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.
Got the molds cut for the dash out of EPS foam and started laying up the fiberglass today. This is going to take some time to finish, not a quick process and super messy.
Not yet implemented, but planning on foil backed foam cut to width/taper with some lines on silicone adhesive on both sides. I have some pieces leftover from another project (roof on the house) that are "fire-rated". Don't know if it really makes a difference. The foil does seem to add some R value and hopefully with the both sides of the paneling "loosely" connected via the adhesive, it will deaden the drum effect the panels have with minimal weight. I looked at the spray stuff, but decided against it (at least currently) due possible expansion of the panels (I know there are low pressure options) and the mess it makes if you ever have to tear into it. However, as I don't have the other fill trimmed yet, we will see how much of an exercise in frustration that leads to...
I was able to make some more progress on the dash this weekend. Got it rough sanded, fit, and mounted in the car. Now that this is done, I will finsh sanding it, and cover it with leather.
I like the look you're doing with the dash. Much less of a kit look too
Keep posting because it's giving me more ideas (as if I needed more ideas on my build haha)
Thanks. I probably have 50 hrs in laying it up and making the molds. Fortunately I have access to a CNC router at work, so that made short work of cutting the molds.
With the passing of Russ, I decided to bulid my own column mounted turn signal. Since at the time there was not another alternative. I have been chipping away at this for several months when I have found time in between family stuff after work. I used the kit that Speedway sells and only ended up using the turn signal part of it.
I had to increase the length of the FFR provided steering shaft, to clear my dash. So I decided to machine an extension, tap the end of it, and the end of the FFR shaft. I used a long set screw to fasten the two together and will weld the two togther, once I verify everything is aligned. I also machined a column cover tube and mount, which slides into the back of the turn signal switch. This will hide all of the wires as well. The mount plate for the tube replaces the two spacers, provided in the kit, that go in between the steering shaft bearing and the frame of the car.
This also made it possible to use a 6 hole cover for mounting the steering wheel, since I could place the mounting holes where I wanted them and not have to work around the FFR holes in their adapter. I picked this one up from Ebay.
The center was originally a horn, but it didn't fit in the FFR steering wheel hole, so I cut off the back side of the button and glued the remaining plastic parts together.
For the turn signal stock, I cut the one off of the VW switch, added some JB Weld to fill in the cavity, and then drilled a hole for the new stock. I machined the new stock out of aluminum and used a piece of stainless tubing for the rod. I tapped the end of the aluminum and added a button. This will be used for high and low beams. I got the button from Amazon. It is really nice and has a stainless housing.
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Originally Posted by Higgybulin
