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Thread: Bob's Daytona Build

  1. #81
    Senior Member rhk118's Avatar
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    Are those vents on the hood functional, ie help the stack get some air? Looking great Bob!

  2. #82
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    Yes. They are made by Run Cool (see hoodlouvers.com). They come powder coated, but I elected to paint them (and the rivets) body color.

    I really installed them to help keep the engine bay a little cooler. I opted for this louver configuration (as opposed to one larger one on the bump) as I am running an Eight-Stack. Engine bay cooler == induction air cooler == good :-)

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  4. #83
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    Last post for a bit: This is the last build item before chasing a title, which starts Wednesday. The windscreen.

    Windscreen.JPG

    Installing is a little tricky, as there is little clearance all around (which is good in general), and there is some difference in curvature of the glass vs the windscreen frame. Test fitting is a good idea. Be careful, as glass will nick a fresh paint job without provocation. You need a buddy for this task.

    I used a 3M urethane fast cure adhesive. I installed a 1/4" x 1/4" high density foam tape around the inside of the fiberglass pinch weld to minimize any squeeze out, AND to raise the windscreen to provide a smidgen more edge clearance and better align the surfaces of glass and body.

    I was joking this morning about the old quip "What's the difference between the chicken and the pig at breakfast? The chicken is involved, but the pig is committed." When you squeeze the trigger of a powered caulk gun loaded with urethane adhesive, you are committed! Haha

    Hoping to get tags on this blue baby before the snow flies. Winter will have me applying stripes, futzing with bonnet and door alignment, resolving a differential fluid weep, installing mesh panels (maybe), installing door cards, and any of a number of potential items I discover during shake-out this Fall. And, waiting for Spring :-)

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  6. #84
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    p.s.: 1 year and 3 days from Stewart delivery ...

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    IMG_1697.JPG

    Running quite well: Have run the engine up to about 4500 rpm on the back roads. Holding a steady 185F coolant temp running up and down the hills in 85 degree weather. Handling is predictable and stiff. I am not throwing the rear end around [yet]. It is loud, but not as loud as it could be if I hadn't installed some side pipe baffles

    Steering wheel not quite "square". A bit of time needed on the tie rod ends
    Need to find time and place to center headlights and running lights, and then I'll affix headlight covers.
    I leaned out the fuel mixture via Holley Terminator X settings. Will continue to play with this a bit until I find the sweet spot. I'd be glad to share TerminatorX global config file setting is there is interest
    I'm going to drop the right front of the bonnet about 1/4"
    There's mesh to install on the bonnet as well
    Door cards in the forecast, and a slight trim needed on the PS door striker post
    The Mosier rear end has a slight weep through the gasket. I'll live with this until mile 3,000 or some such and set a new gasket with fluid swap.
    I've got the Go-Pro mounted and the Valentine radar detector installed :-)
    A bit more brake bedding to do. With my initial balance bar settings, I wasn't grabbing enuf rear brake. IMO, an interesting test of brake balance (in the absence of a skid pad) is looking at how fast one erases disc brake paint ;-)
    Clear bra needs be installed before I get too many more miles in ...

    Waiting on VIN assignment ... [Jeopardy music track inserted here ....]

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  10. #86
    Junior Member MetalManiac's Avatar
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    Hey LateApex,

    I'm building my Gen 3 right now with an old 302 small block. I am wondering if you can provide a photo of your throttle pedal mounting location? I'm using the pedal provided with the kit and want to see how others attached it before I start drilling holes. Seems like the cable overlaps the steering column in some positions.

    Thanks!
    ~Chris

  11. #87
    Junior Member MetalManiac's Avatar
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    Hey LateApex,

    I'm building my Gen 3 right now with an old 302 small block. I am wondering if you can provide a photo of your throttle pedal mounting location? I'm using the pedal provided with the kit and want to see how others attached it before I start drilling holes. Seems like the cable overlaps the steering column in some positions.

    Thanks!
    ~Chris

  12. #88
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    This is a bit of a challenge given pedal spacing in that rather tight foot box AND a general desire to keep the radius of any bends of the throttle cable to the max.

    You can assemble this pedal backwards, and the "tang" is soft, so you can bend it to help set the pedal where you want it. It took a few iterations (false starts) for me to land on my setup.

    Here is a (lousy) photo inside the footbox. You can see how I set this up bass-ackwards:

    IMG_1703.JPG

    I sent the cable "through" the rightmost upright frame member, to the PS of the steering shaft. This frame through hole is not bad in some ways, as one has more solid interface to deal with for the cable end than sheet aluminum. Here is a photo from the DS front wheel well:

    IMG_1705.JPG

    Hope this helps.

    PS: It's a good idea to play with this design point _before_ one starts buttoning up the sheet metal (IMO). As an aside, it is a great idea to affix any sound / heat dampening material and carpet to the foot box panels _before_ buttoning up those panels too :-)

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  14. #89
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    BTW, throttle action feels really smooth for me in these first couple hundred miles of break in. Pay attention to the pull angle on the cable so that with the full range of motion of the pedal / pedal tang the pull is straight and does not bind at full throttle. This informs exactly where that cable hole needs be through the frame member

  15. #90
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    Just sayin' that you can mount the carb backwards (if carb'd) and the cable can take a less tight radius curve(s).

    Dave

    Gen III Coupe #17
    15,000 miles...

  16. #91
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    Good point Dave.

    I am outfitted with an eight-stack, and modifying the cable pull angle involves some bell tower machining that I opted out of ...

  17. #92
    Junior Member MetalManiac's Avatar
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    Oh wow, thank you for these photos. This saves me probably several hours of time!
    It looks like you have the cable pivot on the right side of the pedal (close to the wall) so I can try for that.

    I'll be using a Holley Sniper but haven't looked at where to route it yet.
    I already put the aluminum sheet on so that will complicate the sound deadening operation (doh!) but if it's impossible I'll just drill out the rivets and re-install them.

  18. #93
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    Not impossible. You just have to get upside down, and crawl into the footwell, wish you had the flexibility of an octopus, and avoid sticking the butyl or contact adhesive on your forehead - Haha!

  19. #94
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    LateApex,

    I have read through your thread now several times and I see many ideas that I might incorporate in my build once I recieve it in Jul 2023. I was originally set to get a roadster, but could not get away from the look of the Coupe and did not want to take on someone's unfinished GTM project. I am going with an LS3 crate engine/TKX combination, but have been struggling with the 3 link versus the IRS rear end. I know there are strong opinions on both sides and just wanted to get your impressions of the 3 link rear suspension since you now have it put together, installed and driven the car past the go kart stage.

    Thanks
    Bill

  20. #95
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    3 Link impressions

    LateApex,

    I have read through your thread now several times and I see many ideas that I might incorporate in my build once I recieve it in Jul 2023. I was originally set to get a roadster, but could not get away from the look of the Coupe and did not want to take on someone's unfinished GTM project. I am going with an LS3 crate engine/TKX combination, but have been struggling with the 3 link versus the IRS rear end. I know there are strong opinions on both sides and just wanted to get your impressions of the 3 link rear suspension since you now have it put together, installed and driven the car past the go kart stage.

    Thanks
    Bill

  21. #96
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    I really enjoy the 3-link setup on my Coupe. As a background, I have a front sway bar as well, set at the middle of the adjustment range, and I have the kit provided coil overs (default springs). I have a 347 SBF with the TKO-600. My Coupe is perhaps a little bit lighter than average, as I decided against installing A/C, heating and side windows. Power steering by Armstrong, with related caster settings.

    I am in CO, and an outing almost always involves a run up one of the many canyon roads in the area. I am still breaking in the engine (maybe 900 miles a.t.m.), so not pushing things too hard yet, maybe twice the posted on some of those roads. No sliding or drifting, but maybe .85 G's. I built this coupe to title it and drive it on the backroads, but at some point I will introduce it to open track days

    The ride is stiff, it is flat in the corners, and really feels planted accelerating through a turn. Ride is likely not as comfortable as what the IRS can provide. Or as heavy, or as expensive. Installation was very straight-forward. Unfortunately, I do not have a reference point: This is the only Coupe I have driven.

    Hope this helps Bill. Happy Holidays!

    ... Bob

    p.s.: Sorry I did not see this post until just now ....

  22. #97
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    Bob,

    Thanks for your opinion and description of your driving observations to date. No worries on you getting back to me. I appreciate you making the time to answers my questions.

    I am all over the place on the suspension and other options. I do know I will need the AC in Florida and envy you about the hill climbs and twisties. I would have to drive a long ways to find any hills close to what you are talking about here in SW Florida.

    Thanks again. I hope you and your family have happy holidays!

    Bill

  23. #98
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    You being in FL reminded me of an item I overlooked in my build, which is window tinting. I had taken for granted that some UV / IR shield would be layered in both windscreen and hatch glass. Not so. So much easier to apply BEFORE installing the windscreen :-) Along with some visor tinting ...

    I bounced around a lot on options and features to add after my FFR purchase was placed. FWIW, and maybe a bit of a guideline, major kit parts purchased from FFR and Factory Five Engines amounted to $49580. The other big ticket item was the Eight-Stack system from Inglese which was approximately $7000. Total parts cost was ~$60000. So big ticket items amounted to 95% of parts.

    Paint was another $9500. I did most of the body work

    New Tools was ~$3200. Of course, we hardly need an excuse to buy tools :-)

    And then there are local taxes and registration. Death and taxes are the only certainties in life :-)

    What you can insure this car for is a whole discussion of itself ...

  24. #99
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    Bob,

    Thanks for your perspective on the build and costs. I am vary aware of the costs of building this car are not for the faint of heart. I turned down buying a new C8 because I wanted the challenge as I go into retirement. I am building this car as a bit of therapy and learning after a bad two years of health problems for my wife and I have endured. I realize this adventure will not be an investment for future earnings, but an investment in doing something that I can be proud that I accomplished.

    Thanks

    Bill

  25. #100
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    Tale of the Tape

    P.O. placed with FFR: 3/19/2021
    P.O. placed with Blueprint Engines: 3/21/2021
    Blueprint Engines delivery: 7/9/2021
    P.O. placed with Eight-Stack Systems: 7/20/21
    FFR Kit Complete in Wareham: 8/7/2021
    Eight-Stack Systems delivery: 9/10/2021
    Delivery by Stewart Transport: 9/22/2021
    Last MIK / POL items received: 4/17/2022
    Go-kart: 5/21/2022
    Body work / paint complete: 9/9/2022
    Build "Complete": 9/25/2022
    State Patrol road readiness inspection: 9/29/2022
    60-day Temporary plates: 10/10/2022 - This is where the driving fun starts
    VIN assigned: 12/12/2022
    VIN Plate affixed by State Patrol: 2/2/2023
    Coupe titled and registered: 2/8/2023

    I thought this might help others who may be evaluating building a kit. I am no pro, nor particularly fast, and there are a few places where I might have whittled some time out of this process.

    It took 13 months to receive last of POL / MIK items after placing a P.O. for a complete kit.

    It took me a year and 3 days from receipt of first items from FFR to "completion" of the build. Completion begs a little definition, as there are still things on my To-Do list. It really means when I could move forward with the legal bits of putting the car on the street.

    It took four and a half months to get the VIN assigned, the vehicle titled and license plates on the vehicle.

    When I started this process, I was a bit naive about the calendar time needed to complete the build. I probably put 20 hours a week into the physical building of the car. I parted out the paint work (but did most of the body work), which was a good decision, as throwing paint (well) is not in my wheelhouse. There was a lot of waiting, and waiting, and building bits out of sequence, with the inefficiency that brings.

    But now, I am on my way into the shop to affix the plates on the car. And it is 47F and sunny outside, which is quite balmy by Colorado Winter standards, and I'll be waking up the neighborhood a little bit with a couple of fast laps on my favorite roads :-)

    p.s.: It was a very interesting last week when I went to have a VIN plate affixed under the bonnet by the CO State Patrol. I had finally gotten the call from a CSP investigator that a time slot was available. I had joked with him over the phone that my third temporary registration had expired, but as the local CSP office was maybe 3 miles down the road, I'd likely just sneak on down on an expired registration to have that VIN plate hammered home (as opposed to yet another trip to the DMV for yet another temp tag). But as I thought about this a bit a day before that CSP visit, I imagined that all of my friends would tell me that going to the state patrol barracks to get a VIN affixed with an expired registration would be one of the dummest things I could do - Hah! So I went down and got my 4th temporary tag. I know almost everyone at the local DMV by name, and we are now trading Christmas cards.

    So I show up, and my investigator is there, as well as another patroller who is in training for an investigator role, and the Master Sergeant of the CO state police. They were all very impressed with the vehicle, and an all-around great group of guys. The sergeant had actually spent a fair amount of time doing VIN assignment for various vehicles at the Shelby American Collection Museum around the corner. As I goosed the car exiting the barracks parking lot, I imagine each was wondering when we might meet again ;-)

    Signing off .... Have fun with your builds, and have fun on your roads!!
    Last edited by LateApex; 02-08-2023 at 03:09 PM.

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  27. #101
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    Thanks for that timeline, mine is scheduled for completion at FF in July, retirement scheduled for December, so timing should work out nicely.

  28. #102
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    Hi,
    Could share the changes to the wiring diagram, and software?
    I am in the process of planning my build, and will be using many of the componnents you are.
    Regards
    Jeff

  29. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilkrod View Post
    Hi,
    Could share the changes to the wiring diagram, and software?
    I am in the process of planning my build, and will be using many of the componnents you are.
    Regards
    Jeff
    I was considering buying a decent schematic software package to document (and share) my changes, and actually approached the Ron Francis team to ask for whatever digital form they used to create schematics in their manual, and was told that FFR drew those schematics up and they had no CAD files to share. My follow up request to FFR for the same drew no response. Without a starting point, I would have to create all this from scratch, and it is not worth my time to do, mostly as the changes are not that significant; this was more of "document one's work" idea.

    PM me with any specific changes you are considering, and I'll share whatever might be useful.

    There are two basic areas I made mods to, being hijacking some of the column wiring used in the '33 Hotrod for the RT column-mounted turn signal, and other bits related to integrating a Fox-body Mustang version of the TerminatorX as part of my Eight-Stack induction, which has different wiring, for example in the IAC.

    I am not spending much time on the forum these days, as Spring is springing, the Coupe is done, and I have miles to go before I sleep :-)

  30. #104
    Senior Member rhk118's Avatar
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    Question Bob - Roughly how much room do you have between the Weber intake and the Hood? Are you doing anything for air filtration on your Webers? I have the same intake as you and seems there are 4 options - Run them wide open, Pop-on screens, K&N-type individual mesh inserts, and ITG-type larger covers - appreciate any thoughts you have.

  31. #105
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    Hi Hank -

    I am running the pop on screens, or "rock guards" as some friends have called them :-) Jim Inglese provided me with contact info for stack specific filters proper. See https://bbrfilter.com/ My stacks (and I believe yours too) are Weber 48IDA. Price this time last year was $400 for a set

    The biggest clearance issue is between the rear stacks and the front lip of the cowl, which is an artifact of the "mid-front engine" design by FFR - the engine mounts are located farther rearward than say for example the originals and certain other replicas. I love the resulting weight distribution but with the 8-stack, one must run the shortest stacks.

    One of these days, I'll figure out a mesh filter solution

    Happy New Year!

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  33. #106
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    So, it is "Winter'ish" which is code for refreshing some design bits.

    I decided to re-layout the dash so I can see all the gauges on the dash panel:

    IMG_2137.jpeg

    I built the gauge panel using 1/8" Carbon Fiber Sheet. This stuff is very stiff, and eliminates 95% of the dash flexing without some support to the tranny tunnel.

    I found these 1/4 turn bonnet "locks":

    IMG_2138.jpeg

    They are not a lock per se, but you need a key to open. I had tried some Triumph Spitfire era bonnet locks, but they are 1/2 turn and don't work with the inner panel of the Type '65 bonnet liner, and are just Krap. These are robust, fully stainless steel, ..., etc.

    Next up is NACA ducting on the roof to help vent air "out" of the cabin, smoothing the contours of the rear quarters where the "big ears" were, and placing some louvers (that match my hood louvers) in the place where the cheesy "stock" AL grills are. This is a gut-check, as it requires throwing more paint on a finished body (and the first cut into the roof on a finished car is "puckering" :-)

    The project that keeps on giving - don't mind this at all actually :-) I like being in the shop working on this car. Almost as much as I like driving her!
    Last edited by LateApex; 03-05-2024 at 05:14 PM.

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  35. #107
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    Hi Bob,
    Where did you find the locks? I have been looking for something like those.

    Thanks,
    Brent

  36. #108
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    E-bay actually. Search for "Quarter Turn Cam Lock Latch. Seller is Owach Hardware. It is a solid product. I had to use a vise to bend the latch for the unique profile needed for mating with the bonnet latches, but am very pleased. These are very robust (not cheesy like the Brit offering for Spitfires, GT6 bonnets ... ). The key is a little big for hanging on a key chain ... more like for the tool bag you might have stowed behind the PS seat ...

  37. #109
    Senior Member rhk118's Avatar
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    I like these a lot Bob...but the 12 year old in me wants to mess with them with the tempting "do not touch" sticker there!

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  39. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhk118 View Post
    I like these a lot Bob...but the 12 year old in me wants to mess with them with the tempting "do not touch" sticker there!
    Hank, I laughed when you posted this comment. So appropriate.

    I actually had good intent when I stuck these where I did. Just South are the exhaust pipes. I actually got snake bit by the side pipes once; just a touch mind you, and I should know better.

  40. #111
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    I just installed these NACA ducts in the roof line:

    IMG_2164.JPEG

    Intent??? To exhaust cabin air and to create a bit of air flow through the cabin.
    Why??? There is no venting of air "out" of the cabin in the design, but this is needed IMO. All other cars on the road have some venting scheme, otherwise AC and Heating systems would be anything but efficient.

    I decided to visit this mod / hack after getting the car on the road (and painting it). It was a bit of a butt clench to cut these holes in a perfectly good roof - Hah!

    I also decided to make the process of removing / installing my side windows a 5-minute process:

    IMG_2161.JPEG

    IMG_2163.JPEG

    IMG_2165.JPEG

    What would we do without rivnuts ?

    Hope you are all enjoying Spring too. Enough car twiddling for a bit :-)

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