Do you have inspection there, just wondered if it will make it thru (if you do) with the cage bar at the windshield or if they will way it's obstructing.
Seems like SCCA rules say it has to be street legal.
Do you have inspection there, just wondered if it will make it thru (if you do) with the cage bar at the windshield or if they will way it's obstructing.
Seems like SCCA rules say it has to be street legal.
We have inspection in Ohio. Before I ordered an R model, I called to confirm this would be okay and the answer was no problem. Fingers crossed for when I go to get this done
Dang it, I wish my hood had an interior panel. It looks so much better than without it. Probably a lot stronger as well.
Looking good GT_Rich!
My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021. I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.
Did some assembly last night. It's starting to hit me that the car I've visualized for the last 20ish years is sitting in my garage, just about ready to go race.
Right now it's a lot of in your face red, but I plan to cover a good chunk of that up with vinyl. The in lays on the front bumper will be black, and there will be a wide black stripe down the center of the car with thin white stripes on each side of it. Then, of course, Kenda Tires livery all over the car.
Looks really nice GT_Rich! Which projector headlights did you go with?
My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021. I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.
GT_Rich, coming along nicely. I would assume that since this is still a build in progress, you don’t know how well that custom bracket and Brembos in the back work? I’m considering something similar for my mark3 roadster. Are you willing to share the design file and source where you got them fabricated?
GT_Rich, coming along nicely. I would assume that since this is still a build in progress, you don’t know how well that custom bracket and Brembos in the back work? I’m considering something similar for my mark3 roadster. Are you willing to share the design file and source where you got them fabricated?
I am hoping to race this coming weekend. Will let you know. I have no problem sharing it.
The look of this car is pretty much finished. Vinyl stripes, sponsor decals, correct wheels. I raced it last weekend and overall was very satisfied. I'll start posting race updates in separate threads. I guess this build thread is "done". Received kit in September and finished in March. Under 7 months! All work done by me in my home garage, including body work and paint.
Not completely sorted out yet but showing lots of potential. Since you asked I will give more detail. The Brembo calipers I am using were explained elsewhere, but the fronts are from a 2013 Caddy ATS and the rear are from a 2015 V8 Camaro. Rock Auto sells them new for a fair price. Rotors are 2003 Cobra front rotors (I use the same rotor front and rear, 13" vented). Pads are Hawk HP Plus. Master cylinder is 3/4" front and 5/8" rear. The bias is very good. I am near halfway on the balance bar right now so plenty of available adjustment
I have two issues at play. The first is I can't get the darn bleeders to completely seal up. Such a stupid problem. All 8 bleeders seem to "weep" a little when hot and under hard braking. The rears have seemed to stop after torquing them really tight while hot. On the fronts I wasn't comfortable going any tighter so I swapped to a brass bleeders, hoping it will conform a little on shape and also expand with temperature similar to aluminum. I will find out tomorrow. Second issue is I am getting a touch of what feels like pad knockback but it might be leaking fluid. TBD.
My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021. I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.
Another brake question. I’m also looking at installing a cable adjuster for the balance bar. I noticed in your pictures it looks like you went straight out the side of the foot box then back through the firewall with yours. Did you cut a slot in the aluminum to allow for fwd/aft movement of the balance bar, or just drill a hole? It looks to me I would also need to notch the front right mount for the pedal box for clearance. Just curious how you went about it.
Another brake question. I’m also looking at installing a cable adjuster for the balance bar. I noticed in your pictures it looks like you went straight out the side of the foot box then back through the firewall with yours. Did you cut a slot in the aluminum to allow for fwd/aft movement of the balance bar, or just drill a hole? It looks to me I would also need to notch the front right mount for the pedal box for clearance. Just curious how you went about it.
I cut a slot after brakes were bled and final pedal height was determined, as all this matters. I cut the slot intentionally tall so there was room for weatherstripping above and below the cable. I used the same stuff as used to seal radiator ducting to nose. And, yes, I also had to notch some of the pedal mounting on the frame. I did all of that before mounting the aluminum panels.Screenshot_20230717_224719_Gallery.jpg
Last edited by GT_Rich; 07-17-2023 at 09:48 PM.
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
Thanks, you've confirmed my thinking on how that would work if I go that route. I'm also looking at using one of the Tilton 90 deg. adapters to keep the cable run inside the foot box. I'd put it on drivers right, and run the cable almost straight back to the dash. Or... as straight as possible to wherever there is room to mount the knob. I haven't mocked up the dash yet.
Thanks, you've confirmed my thinking on how that would work if I go that route. I'm also looking at using one of the Tilton 90 deg. adapters to keep the cable run inside the foot box. I'd put it on drivers right, and run the cable almost straight back to the dash. Or... as straight as possible to wherever there is room to mount the knob. I haven't mocked up the dash yet.
I tried that adapter. I could not get it to work. Just not enough room.
I tried that adapter. I could not get it to work. Just not enough room.
Same here. The 90 degree adapters do not work. What I have works really well. It's smooth enough to operate during an autocross lap.
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
Good to know. I guess I will not waste time and money trying the adapter then. Do you feel like your weather strip solution is effective keeping the heat out? The only other choice seems to be no adjuster, and removing the top of the foot box to make any needed adjustments. Which.... for street driving would probably be just fine. For changing track conditions and fine tuning on a given day, the cable is obviously the way to go.
FWIW, I mounted my balance bar adjuster on the left, near the fuse box. I had to grind / shorten the coupler and shorten the balance bar so that I cleared the clutch lever and the tranny tunnel AL, while still yielding all the balance adjustment one might need. One of many "hacks" :-) The trick is to clear the clutch / master cylinder so that there is no rubbing or interference with the cable when one is operating clutch or the brake
I'll dig into my build thread and/or photos - I though I had posted on this hack previously ...
FWIW, I mounted my balance bar adjuster on the left, near the fuse box. I had to grind / shorten the coupler and shorten the balance bar so that I cleared the clutch lever and the tranny tunnel AL, while still yielding all the balance adjustment one might need. One of many "hacks" :-) The trick is to clear the clutch / master cylinder so that there is no rubbing or interference with the cable when one is operating clutch or the brake
I'll dig into my build thread and/or photos - I though I had posted on this hack previously ...
I see in this solution you cut some off the balance bar. I don't love that. In my first few months of racing I've used more than 6 turns of adjustment. It's nice to have all of the adjustment to account for things like pad changes or pushrod length changes.
As far as the weatherstrip goes, it works well. I don't notice any additional heat coming in
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
[QUOTE=GT_Rich;532884]I see in this solution you cut some off the balance bar. I don't love that. In my first few months of racing I've used more than 6 turns of adjustment. It's nice to have all of the adjustment to account for things like pad changes or pushrod length changes.
Rich, this is quite interesting. Can you elaborate a bit how you modified bias over those first few months, and what the root of those needed changes was? For example, are you applying more bias now to the rears or the fronts? Is tire wear a factor? I had assumed that with appropriate calipers and correct master cylinder sizing, the amount of adjustment needed would be less than 6 turns (Hence I lopped off some of the balance bar instead of going through the tranny tunnel)
Note to self: Go find a skid pad or big-A$$ vacant parking lot and do a better job of calibrating my bias :-)
I see in this solution you cut some off the balance bar. I don't love that. In my first few months of racing I've used more than 6 turns of adjustment. It's nice to have all of the adjustment to account for things like pad changes or pushrod length changes.
Rich, this is quite interesting. Can you elaborate a bit how you modified bias over those first few months, and what the root of those needed changes was? For example, are you applying more bias now to the rears or the fronts? Is tire wear a factor? I had assumed that with appropriate calipers and correct master cylinder sizing, the amount of adjustment needed would be less than 6 turns (Hence I lopped off some of the balance bar instead of going through the tranny tunnel)
Note to self: Go find a skid pad or big-A$$ vacant parking lot and do a better job of calibrating my bias :-)
Thanx for the insight!
Before I even talk about my recent experience I'll share some general info I've learned on other cars. Lots of things change brake bias. Spring rates, shock damping, camber settings, pad compounds, tire compound, track surface, track speeds, driving style, etc. We run an event every year where the first day is a road course with speeds around 130 mph and the next day is an autocross with speeds in the 60s. The road course usually needs 2 or 3 turns more front bias because your transferring more weight to the front when you are stopping from a higher speed. If you put on new pads at only one end of the car, your bias will likely swing all the way to that end until they full bed in. Those are just two common examples.
In my case, I put together a completely unproven brake package. To my knowledge, the rear calipers I am using have never been used on an 8.8 rear end. They are GM calipers for a late model Camaro with Brembo brakes. Furthermore, the rear is still a c-clip axle and folks will say fixed calipers on a c-clip rear are a bad idea.
The c-clip issues were difficult to overcome. I had two different center plugs (the axle keeper plug on an Eaton TrueTrac) machined before I achieved zero axle end play, which is a must. During that time, I lengthened the rear master cylinder pushrod in an effort to bandaid the problem. It definitely helped certain situations but the bias and pedal feel was still inconsistent. My bias was probably 60 percent rear.
I then added a 10 psi residual valve in the rear circuit and this further minimized my pad knockback, which i believe was due to axle deflection under cornering loads. The first event with the residual valve was eye opening (and a** puckering) as the car wanted to spin on corner entry everywhere. I turned the bias to full front and it was still tail happy but drivable.
For the next event I re-baselined my master cylinder pushrod lengths. Basically back to exactly as recommended by Wilwood. I was immediately locking the fronts and had to put in 2 turns of rear bias to get it right.
All this tuning has been with our local autocross club that runs courses about 75 mph. It feels good there but might not have enough front bias for a road course. We run one next month and I will lengthen the front MC pushrod between sessions if needed.
With all that said, my suggestion to anyone that is serious about tracking a car is to have as much brake bias adjustability as you can possibly get.
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
Here you go. Unfortunately cutting the door frame is the only option. The door still feels really solid.
Rich
Coupe R with a 427 SBF
Tremec TKX close ratio, 3 link rear suspension, 3.27 gear
Built for 200 treadwear autocross and time attack
Sponsored by Kenda Tires
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Originally Posted by James Morse
