Restoration/upgrades of FFR3490, MK2 built in 2002.

[Jrmotorsports55]

I started documenting the restoration/upgrading of this car that I purchased in Dec of 2021. It was originally built in 2002 using the donor method and I am going through it to make it look more authentic.

At this time I am going through the dash and removing the mustang switches/controls and changing to Lucas switches.

Follow the process here as I will be posting videos of the process on a regular basis.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...6mVHNS3FsRV76S

Thanks,

Jason

[Jrmotorsports55]

Making progress on re-doing the dash to have the authentic switchgear vs the donor Mustang parts under the dash. I still need to wire it all but so far I am VERY happy with the results.

IMG_5713[1].jpgNOBC4497[1].jpg

[jrcuz]

Looks good! I'm also following on your youtube channel.
JR

[Jrmotorsports55]

Looks good! I'm also following on your youtube channel.
JR

Thanks. Many more updates/upgrades planned for the car. Once I get this dash wiring sorted out I'll be moving on to the brake upgrades. I plan on replacing all of the gauges as well, just not in the current budget as I have 2 other project vehicles I am working at the same time.

Jason

[JohnnyB]

Looks good! I'm also following on your youtube channel.
JR

Ditto.. Nice job, I'm enjoying the heck out of the videos.

[Jrmotorsports55]

Ditto.. Nice job, I'm enjoying the heck out of the videos.

I appreciate it!

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. I have the turn signals and hazards wired and working.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted, Lucas headlight switches are now wired and working. I also cleaned out some un-needed wiring behind the dash.

[jrcuz]

Getting my coffee ready to watch new vid. Did I see you are in Cleveland? I'm originally from Springfield.
JR

[Jrmotorsports55]

Getting my coffee ready to watch new vid. Did I see you are in Cleveland? I'm originally from Springfield.
JR

Thanks. Yes, 15 mins south of down town CLE, in Seven Hills, OH. I appreciate you following along. I'm actually heading out now to resume work on the Cobra as we got a lot more snow than I expected overnight so the Gladiator work I had planned is being put off until it thaws out.

[Jrmotorsports55]

Just uploaded a new video. All lights are working now, did some more wiring clean up, mounted the Mustang fuse box, and found out the heater is going to be a problem with my new switch set up. Enjoy!

[jrcuz]

If you end up removing the heater you may want to consider seat heaters.
JR

[Jrmotorsports55]

Yeah, we'll see. Going to look at other heater options or possibly modifying the existing unit. More to come on that front.

[Jrmotorsports55]

I had an idea of what I wanted to do with with the existing heater and did some on line searching and found a solution that someone else did which was exactly what I was thinking. Here is a link to his site with photos, basically putting the blower motor on the engine side of the firewall and flipping this unit upside down so the defrost ducts point down. Downside is that there will be no space for a glove box unless I do a custom unit.

https://cobra.spintime.org/assypics3.html

[jrcuz]

Looks like a good fit.
JR

[Jrmotorsports55]

Looks like a good fit.
JR

Yep, need to use the existing holes in the firewall, so that should do the job, pretty much what I was thinking before I found the photos. Will solve my gauge clearance issues as well. Only other downside is that the heater portion will only be on the pass side, but that's more for my wife anyway.

[weendoggy]

Yep, need to use the existing holes in the firewall, so that should do the job, pretty much what I was thinking before I found the photos. Will solve my gauge clearance issues as well. Only other downside is that the heater portion will only be on the pass side, but that's more for my wife anyway.

Route one of the "defrost" ducts (or both from a plenum) to your side of the car into your footbox. I have that same heater on my MKI and use it this way (I only get one duct), but it heats the foot area just fine. I have some pictures on my site in the wiring and body sections when I did my frame off. Heated seats are a must as well.

[Jrmotorsports55]

Yeah, that is what I was thinking as well. One duct to my foot box, other add 2 defrost vents and split between the other duct to get heat reflection off back of glass. Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear it worked for you as well.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Heater is out and disassembled. Discussion of relocation and leak repairs. Enjoy!

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video uploaded. Making progress on the heater relocation.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video uploaded. Heater unit is now braced and solidly in place. Making progress.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video uploaded. Pulled the intake manifold to reseal it and found some new issues to fix.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video loaded. I repaired the damaged threads in the lower intake, replaced the fuel injector connectors, reinstalled most of the top end parts that were previously removed, and found some new issues with the custom expansion tank/thermostat housing.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Overview of my upcoming brake upgrades as well as prepping the parts for install. Also went back to work on the custom heater box install as I received the fittings I had ordered to plumb the heater.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. The rear drum to disc conversion is complete using 11.65 cobra rotors and 45mm tbird calipers via a few adapter/mounting kits and some customization. Next up is the front brakes/master cylinder/proportioning valve and retrofit lines.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Installed the 94-95 Cobra master with Maximum Motorsports conversion lines as well as reman front calipers, Hawk Street 5.0 pads, and Russell braided stainless lines.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Continuation of work on the modified heater core, as well as more work on the brake upgrades.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Have I told you how much I hate dealing with brake lines. Finally think it’s holding pressure and all leaks resolved.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Finished up plumbing the heater unit and started reinstalling the cooling parts. Had to use some creativity to repair the stripped out lower thermostat bolt hole in the intake that was installed on the engine.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. The engine is back together and she runs. Custom heater works great. Brake leaks are all fixed. Now I have to relocate the battery and my thermostat housing is leaking.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. I repaired the pitted thermostat flange and reinstalled the housing and degas tank using Dow 111 o ring sealant on my CSR Performance swivel housing. Also installed my Auto Meter mechanical water temp gauge and made some adjustments to the dash wiring. Finally, I added a stainless 90 to the heater core hose that was stressed and pushing against the firewall grommet to avoid a possible run through down the road.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Relocation of the battery to the trunk pretty much done and I found that the thermostat housing is still leaking. Next up will be pulling that back apart.

[johnnybgoode]

New video posted. Relocation of the battery to the trunk pretty much done and I found that the thermostat housing is still leaking. Next up will be pulling that back apart.

You could use a coarser grade of sandpaper to help cut the aluminum faster. I use 320 on a flat wood sanding block. I wouldn't polish the surface either. There are two O-rings on those water necks, make sure you replace them both. The flange O-ring can get compressed and lose its seal. Replacing usually does the trick. You should not need to use any sealant with those necks, I've had very good luck with them installed dry.

You can also use a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the system to 16lb. and see if it holds and/or spot any leaks.

Good Luck. Scott

[Jrmotorsports55]

You could use a coarser grade of sandpaper to help cut the aluminum faster. I use 320 on a flat wood sanding block. I wouldn't polish the surface either. There are two O-rings on those water necks, make sure you replace them both. The flange O-ring can get compressed and lose its seal. Replacing usually does the trick. You should not need to use any sealant with those necks, I've had very good luck with them installed dry.

You can also use a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the system to 16lb. and see if it holds and/or spot any leaks.

Good Luck. Scott

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, it was a brand new housing and o rings and leaked pretty good. I pulled it off after running it once or twice and then did the lapping/jb weld fill of the pits, and reused the o rings as they had no signs of damage, and the leaking was much less, but still leaking. Pulling it back apart this weekend and will do some more lapping and will use rougher paper as you recommended. I have new o rings as well. I have the newer style neck, one large o ring for the t stat and one small for the bypass fitting. The old one that I removed had a different setup.

I do have a pressure tester and will likely try that before refilling again.

Thanks.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Pulled the coolant tank and thermostat housing off and attempted to stop the leaks. I failed. It still leaked. Permatex Right Stuff won out in the end.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. The coolant leak is finally resolved. Also got a few smaller items installed.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Finished up adjusting/bleeding brakes and hooked up e brake. Final mounted the battery in the trunk. Installed drivers floor vent and ran duct to the heater box.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. In this video I install my Auto Meter Cobra fuel level gauge, wire in the gauge lights to the vintage dimmer switch, mount a custom bracket and install my hazard switch and heater output control switch.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. The dash is back in and started cleaning up the interior.

[Jrmotorsports55]

New video posted. Polished the Moto Lita steering wheel, finished up cleaning up the interior wiring, and started cleaning up the front lighting wiring. Enjoy!