Tesla Powered 33 Hot Rod

[BradC]

Sounds like maybe you found the solution you wanted but in the future you may want to look at magnetic bi stable latching relays. These are designed to stay in an open or closed state without continuous current.

Steve

Thanks for the suggestion. So far the new switch seems to be doing the trick.

[BradC]

Well I got the car out on the back road by the chassis shop Wednesday for maybe 45 minutes of test runs. Got it up to about 45-50 mph without any issues. Acceleration is incredible. It pins you back pretty hard both from a stop and rolling. I only had the battery charged to maybe 50-60% still so it will just get better at full charge. It hooked up a lot better than it did in my court which has a bunch of small pebbles from the crap seal job they did a few years ago. Brakes were fine, but I forgot to dial up the regen braking and play around with it - ugh. I know it's working though. I wasn't able to do much higher speed cornering but I did swerve it back and forth pretty hard on the road and handling seemed great. Not surprising though since I didn't change the front suspension, and the rear is still using the FFR coilovers. Took it over some bumps (pot holes aren't hard to find in CA) and everything was fine in terms of vertical travel. No creaks or pops even though I still only have two bolts holding the body on.

I have a few more small things to do in the next week and then I'll tear it all apart and get it over to the body shop.

The front fenders I got look nice but they bounce around a bit more than I would like. It's coming from both the fender itself and from the mounting bracket. This morning I made stiffener plates out of 1/8" G10 for the back side and that made a huge difference. Eliminated most of not all of the weakness on the fender side. I think they're pretty good now but I'll spend a little time this weekend looking at ways to stiffen up the steel brackets.

IMG_4031.jpg

[Mastertech5]

Looks like you're getting out the little gremlins and getting stuff to work on your terms.

[FF33rod]

Hey Brad. The FFR fenders use an L shaped bracket attaching to the inside of the fender in 2 places, makes it quite solid.

Also, a heads up on rock chips - with the bicycle style fenders, the front wheels kick up all sorts of crap including pebbles and other items that chip the front of the rear fender and, when turning, the side of the car. To help reduce it, get the rear of the front fenders as close to the ground as you can. I cut mine to about 4 inches I think it was and it was way too high, added black mud flaps to extend them about 1" off the road and that really helped

Steve

[BradC]

Looks like you're getting out the little gremlins and getting stuff to work on your terms.

Tryin' to!!

[BradC]

Another thing I wanted to get done before it goes to paint is the center console. That way I can get it over to an upholstery shop with no rush. This is just an armrest mostly with one, maybe two, cup holders and vinyl padded pockets in the front and back for my phone and any papers that need to stay in the car. I debated about making a door on it but I just don't need to store anything in my toy car. I had that storage on my Camaro and I never put anything in it. The upholstery will look cleaner without a door too.

This is the design:

Center Console.JPG

A friend of mine is a cabinet maker so he had tons of scrap MDF and the tooling to make nice joints. We did all the straight cutting this morning at his place and then I machined the parts with rounds on my CNC. Need to let the front curved part sections glue overnight (they're pinned with dowel too) and then once I get the cup holders I ordered I'll decide on location and machine the hole(s). Once it's all glued/screwed together and set I'll take it back over to my friend's place for outer sanding and to router the rounds on the edges. The console will slide hook on a part I'll make bolted to the car floor and then have screws that secure to the top of the 12V battery box. The cup holder holes will be my access for bolting it down. Should be secure enough plus it's bolstered by the seats a bit too.

Parts cut and joint slots added:

IMG_4039.jpg IMG_4038.jpg

Sitting in the car:

IMG_4040 (1).jpg

Machining the front curved parts and the rounds on the side panels:

69672489122__0F87700C-F101-4351-A5B8-6D179CB28A52.jpg 69672993914__2F52DAB9-213F-4908-9CA9-728DC91DCE96.jpg

Clamped to cure overnight:

IMG_4044.jpg

Total cost so far - $15.07 for cup holder inserts. Ha! I love projects like this.

[BradC]

Hey Brad. The FFR fenders use an L shaped bracket attaching to the inside of the fender in 2 places, makes it quite solid.

Also, a heads up on rock chips - with the bicycle style fenders, the front wheels kick up all sorts of crap including pebbles and other items that chip the front of the rear fender and, when turning, the side of the car. To help reduce it, get the rear of the front fenders as close to the ground as you can. I cut mine to about 4 inches I think it was and it was way too high, added black mud flaps to extend them about 1" off the road and that really helped

Steve

I know - unfortunately it's not possible to go down low in the rear with these fenders though. They're form over function. I'll have impact resistant film on the body in problem areas and cross my fingers it does ok. Thanks for the input!

[BradC]

I have the car almost torn all back apart now. I have to drop the motor still and then I'll put the ugly stock Tesla rear suspension parts on for now so I can work on Cerakoting the MPP stuff while it's gone. It was good to go through the process of a full disassembly because it highlighted some problem areas. I made a bunch of changes to wire routing mostly so reassembly will be cleaner, and also to make any later maintenance work I end up needing a bit easier. It heads to the body shop on Thursday!

[Papa]

Maybe FFR will invite you to display the finished product next year at SEMA? It could be a great opportunity for them should they ever decide to offer an EV of their own.

Dave

[jayguy]

They had an EV hotrod way way back in 2009, would be cool to compare the 2 though, old EV tech versus newer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpqvpqklyk0

[BradC]

Maybe FFR will invite you to display the finished product next year at SEMA? It could be a great opportunity for them should they ever decide to offer an EV of their own.

Dave

That would be really cool! Who knows.. I talked to Dave Smith about it at SEMA last year. Was hard to gauge what he thought about it but I could understand him being hesitant to show something they don't produce. There was the new SEMA Electrified area though that could definitely use more cars this year.

[BradC]

They had an EV hotrod way way back in 2009, would be cool to compare the 2 though, old EV tech versus newer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpqvpqklyk0

Yeah, I saw that car in my research for this project. Very cool for the time, and things have come a LONG way since then. Thanks for posting the link!

[jayguy]

You bet! I saw that one in person that year, and talked to Jim S. in the booth, but still haven't been able to get my own kit ordered. I really like what you're doing with yours, and can't wait to see it all done.

[BradC]

That would have been cool to see that one. They put a ton of work into that build. I bought my packs and all the electronics - but they built them from individual A123 cells AND designed all the control and BMS systems. Crazy.

Thanks for the feedback on mine. I'm really looking forward to getting on the final assembly. It should be about 5-6 weeks before I get the chassis back, week or two getting that blasted and powder coated, and then I can start assembly. It should work out just right by the time the body is done - I hope.

[BradC]

All ready for the body shop tomorrow. Glad I kept the Tesla suspension. I almost got rid of it all.

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Back to a big pile of parts - at least all the body panels that have been laying around are out of here.

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[BradC]

Dropped off! The body panels are all in the shop.

IMG_4069.jpg

[Mastertech5]

Can't wait to see the final product!

[BradC]

Little bit of refurbishing on some parts today. I media blasted the Tesla rear rotors and then had them turned a couple thou (they weren't warped, just ugly). A little high temp caliper paint to match the front rotors and they look brand new. I need to bake them at 200F for an hour to set the paint still though. I'll let them out-gas for a day or so and hopefully it won't ruin our kitchen oven - I hear divorce attorneys are expensive so hopefully it's fine. Ha

IMG_2932c.jpg IMG_4079.jpg

Same with the calipers. This is before and after glass bead blasting. It leaves a really nice finish. I'll see if it holds though. I may need to coat them with the high temp paint but I'll leave it as is for now and see how it lasts. I did the caliper frames too. They all look brand new too.

IMG_4075.jpg

The front calipers were new and looked pretty good in bare Aluminum but the bead blasting made an improvement there too. The caliper frames are steel so they needed the high temp paint to match the calipers. I'll have to bake these too.

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[DanQ]

I see the Stewart Transport truck in the photo of your cul-de-sac. I have a 33 HR kit coming sometime in June, and I live in a street with only one way in and out, with a cul-de-sac also. Can the Stewart truck make that turn around OK? I measures ours and it is 90' diameter, or 45' radius. If he cannot turn around in ours, he would have to back out onto a busy 45 MPH road. Just wondering how well he can get into out neighborhood and turn around to get out.

https://www.google.com/maps/@44.8205...!3m1!1e3?hl=en

[BradC]

Looks like my court is about 80ft diameter. The driver was able to turn around no problem so I think you should be ok.

[33fromSD]

Big Rigs can turn pretty sharp, should be fine.

Jim

[BradC]

More small stuff getting done while the car is gone..

The center console is sanded all even and the corners rounded with a router. I'll take it over to the upholstery shop next week.

IMG_4091.jpg

Cover plates for the lower control arm spring pockets are machined. These will either be black or the color of the control arms. Not sure yet.

IMG_4092.jpg

I took the battery pack panels with the striped Cerakote fail over to a professional place the other day. They had a minimum job price that was higher than what they technically should cost to coat, so I threw in all the MPP rear suspension parts as well. That will save me a bunch of time on those. I wasn't looking forward to doing them anyway. Still a very reasonable price for the total of 18 parts I'm having done and well worth it not having to prep and coat them myself.

[BradC]

As with any project car, picking the color is a chore. I've been going through tons of options the last few weeks. Originally I was thinking Washington Blue but there really isn't a standard paint code for it, being a 30's Ford color. There are no cars I know of to go look at in person, my body/paint guy said we'd have to spend time (and money) doing mixes and spray outs, plus it's a darker color which I don't think I want again. So I think the blue is out..

I'm pretty sure I want to go with a modern non-metallic lighter gray. It'll go well with my wheels, the FFR black interior, and the Cerakote Titanium color. There are several versions from different manufacturers - all with repeatable color codes which is a plus. Some flop green and some flop blue in certain lights which I don't think I want, so as of now I'm leaning towards a Mercedes Alpine Grey. I went and looked at this car at a dealer here the other day and it's a really nice version.

IMG_4084.jpg IMG_4083.jpg

This car was only $200k in case you wanted to pick one up for a spare weekend car...

[progmgr1]

Yeah, I've been seeing what I call "dove gray" on a lot of small sedans over the past year. Everything from Audis to various Japanese and Korean cars. I really like the color and think it looks kind of classy.

Keith HR #894

[Dan Cooper]

I've been planning this build for quite a while now and things are finally starting to get real. Sold my finished previous project car two weeks ago so I have the budget and space freed up for a new one. My 33 Hot Rod build date is just a month away now too. I picked up the rear drive unit I found for the project yesterday which is the first physical part in my possession - so I think I can officially start the build thread!

After months of researching feasibility of what I want to do I've nailed down the high level design of this project. I've done enough internal combustion projects and I wanted a completely new challenge, so this one is gonna be electrified. Here is the high level plan:

Motor:
Tesla Model 3 Performance rear drive unit. This seems like the best option for the 33 after researching and evaluating several options. I was lucky and found a really clean 980 motor (performance version) from a 2018 Model 3 with only 27,400 miles on it at a local dismantler. This has a 265KW (~355Hp) max output with the controller I'm looking at, and of course instant torque. Should be more than enough power to destroy the rear tires on command in what I think will end up being a 2500-2700lb car.

Rear Suspension:
I spent hours and hours working to see if any rear transverse electric motor would fit in with the FFR IRS setup, even with modifications, and it's quite clear that it just won't work. Factory Five took a look at the options I was considering as well and they came to the same conclusion. So I'm on my own for the rear bouncy part that holds the wheels. I considered using the entire Model 3 rear subframe/suspension but the track width is just too wide and it would look like kind of a hack job IMO. So, what I'm going to do is ditch the Tesla subframe and fab up the rear chassis for the Model 3 IRS. I'll 3D scan the complete rear subframe to make accurate CAD files, move the pivot points in to shorten the track width, and then redesign the rear of the chassis to accept the motor and suspension. This is pretty ambitious for me and I've had a few 'what the hell am I doing' moments - but I'm confident I can do it.

Batteries and other stuff:
With great help from Michael Bream at EV West in southern CA, at this point I'm planning on their LG Chem Super Cell battery packs. They will be wired 13 or 14 in series, 2 parallel which will get the required 400V and should provide about a 130ish mile range. That's plenty for a car like this. My top motor controller right now is the EV Controls T-2C. AEM has a really nice setup for the Model S motor but according to them they're not working on support for the Model 3 unfortunately. I'm still undecided on the BMS and charger.

Images and more to follow...

Brad, I am really impressed with what you have done. I too have been interested in the 33' project with the Tesla motor. I have emailed EV West a few times, Michael suggested the Small Tesla motor. It seems like trying to get some good dimensions from FFR is a challenge. I understand that because they are building the chassis to sell based on their engineering. What I was trying to find out based on your experience was if the Small Tesla Motor would fit into the IRS they offer as an option. I am trying to determine which way to go so I can configure my kit. I am not an engineer, but have built a few ICE projects. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan Cooper

[BradC]

Brad, I am really impressed with what you have done. I too have been interested in the 33' project with the Tesla motor. I have emailed EV West a few times, Michael suggested the Small Tesla motor. It seems like trying to get some good dimensions from FFR is a challenge. I understand that because they are building the chassis to sell based on their engineering. What I was trying to find out based on your experience was if the Small Tesla Motor would fit into the IRS they offer as an option. I am trying to determine which way to go so I can configure my kit. I am not an engineer, but have built a few ICE projects. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan Cooper

Hi Dan,

I went through several possible motors as options scoping this project out - including the Tesla SDU and LDU. Nothing would fit within the FFR IRS. None were even close actually which is why I did what I did. I settled on the Model 3 because it was the best fit IMO once I abandoned the FFR IRS. It has great power and is a more efficient motor than the SDU/LDU. Plus there were nice options for upgraded suspension components.

In my investigations I took some measurements from a friend's Cobra, got some actual 33 IRS measurements from a member on this forum, and had feedback from FFR engineering. I sent Jesper at FFR a few motor CAD models I found for rough check since I didn't have a model of the 33 IRS and he agreed nothing was even close. The suspension pivot points are just too narrow, having been designed to only clear a differential. I looked at things like rotating the motor and modifying the IRS - nothing was viable.

I think EV West is working on a Mustang based IRS kit for the SDU. A friend of mine is doing a '73 Capri and he's researching options too. Michael told him about that but I don't have any details and I'm not sure where it is in terms of readiness.

Whatever you decide on, if you do a rear motor electric build I wouldn't bother ordering the FFR IRS. Just go with the basic 4 link. That leaves you the most options for something custom.

[Dan Cooper]

Brad, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. I didn't want to order my kit and figure it out the hard way that what i wanted to do would be a bigger challenge than I care to get into. So what I understand is just order the basic 4 link with out the rear end. EV WEST now lists the Model 3 kit in their catalog. I am sure their are more things to order and fabricate to get this to fit the chassis. Thanks for the information.

[BradC]

No problem.. Not sure if you read this earlier but I actually ended up with the IRS frame by accident. It was irritating because it cost to get it removed cleanly but it also gave me a chance to look at it up close. Easy to verify though what I had already sorted out that there's just no room for a transverse motor.

I'll look forward to seeing what way you go with it. If you do a build thread and think about it let me know. I'd like to follow it.

[Dan Cooper]

Brad, The last several days I have been going through your build. I am very impressed with your talents and attention to detail. I agree with your thoughts on a previous post about the crate motors. It makes sense to eliminate the extra rotating parts and make room for batteries. That is also why I would like to do a rear motor install. I understand you have a lot of time and effort in designing and CAD work in several areas of your build. I was wondering if you would be interested in working with me on the motor install being you have the engineering worked out. I realize your time and effort is worth something. Let me know if you would like to email, text or phone call to discuss this. Thanks Dan

[BradC]

Thank you for the comments!

I'll send you a PM..

[BradC]

I went out to see the car today. It's an hour+ away so I'll only do that every few weeks probably. I had to take some small parts I made to them too. Doesn't look like much progress but they've done a lot of work fixing up the bad glasswork on it and reshaping some problem spots. Exactly why I took it to a place that's done lots of FFR cars before. They've already seen and made all the common problems and mistakes on cars before mine! Haha It's almost at the point now where they're ready to put the body back on the chassis and fit up all the panels. Should be another 3 weeks or so and I'll go back to pick up the chassis. That's when I'll get busy again for sure.

IMG_4112.jpg IMG_4111.jpg IMG_4110.jpg

[BradC]

Got the center console back from upholstery. I haven't painted the 3D printed phone pocket on the front yet but it will be black. It's been too cold and rainy here to paint.

IMG_4120.jpg

[IanN]

Thank you for the comments!

I'll send you a PM..

Brad, The last several days I have been going through your build. I am very impressed with your talents and attention to detail. I agree with your thoughts on a previous post about the crate motors. It makes sense to eliminate the extra rotating parts and make room for batteries. That is also why I would like to do a rear motor install. I understand you have a lot of time and effort in designing and CAD work in several areas of your build. I was wondering if you would be interested in working with me on the motor install being you have the engineering worked out. I realize your time and effort is worth something. Let me know if you would like to email, text or phone call to discuss this. Thanks Dan

Count me in too! You're work on this is awesome and I think there will be several people who want to follow in your footsteps.

[BradC]

Count me in too! You're work on this is awesome and I think there will be several people who want to follow in your footsteps.

Wow - ok. Appreciate the feedback! I hadn't even thought about this until Dan's post but I'm open to it. I'm working on putting together something now for the motor and suspension. PM me if you want to discuss it more.

[BradC]

After some discussions with EV West I've decided to change up my dash display plan. I'm going to ditch the iPad option and go with the AEM CD7 CANBUS display. The iPad option for the T-2C controller is pretty cool, but also kind of limited. I want to use the new CAN shunt resistor that EV West is working on to make my battery state of charge display more cleanly integrated (that's how all this started...) and the CD7 will work out much better. It has fully user customizable UI so I'll have unlimited options for how I want it to look and I can have switchable pages for the more secondary information. It also has an odometer function which is something the T-2C/iPad doesn't have. I'll have to sell the GPS speedometer I bought but this will be a much nicer setup. I tend to change my mind a lot and iterate my way to final designs so this will give me endless flexibility. It's also just a little smaller than the iPad mini which will fit better in the center of the 33 dash anyway. It's an added expense I wasn't planning on but such is life with custom cars...

CD7-1.jpg

This is a cool video EV West sent showing it in a custom application keeping in line with the originality of a VW Thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQaLoDVmMVs

[Tom Veale]

Hi Brad,

Obsessing over color and style seems to be something pretty common. I drove myself to a greater level of insanity doing that. Remember that #007 was one of the first of FFR's Street Rods to be finished and licensed for the street, so I didn't have a lot of pretty, finished ones from which to get ideas.

- First, I wanted to go 2-Tone, partly because there were so many beautiful two tone cars in the '30s. The other reason was that I felt the car's 'billboard' of tall, rather flat sides needed a break. I visited the car museum in Las Vegas (can't remember the name) that was left-overs from the old Harrad museum, I think. They had a dozen or more '30s cars with beautiful two tone paint schemes. It also reminded me that those cars also had two tone paint on the Wheels. Hence my choice for painted Steelies.

- Okay, next was attempting to find the right way of dividing the two tones in a way that honored the '30s cars but was a bit more 'modern' in concept. I don't know how many sketches I did and photocopies of the car's outline that I colored with marking pens, but it was a lot. Then I got thinking about all the math and science I've used in my life and came up with a "Sine Wave" curve for the divider.

- I had no idea of how I was going to shape the sine wave on the car's exterior but Bob Gibson of Total Auto Body had the technique. I sat in a chair watching and he laid on tape where I wanted it to go. He then took big sheets of paper and covered the side. Next he used a pencil to make a Grave Rubbing of the tape line. A few minutes of careful scissor work along the pencil line and we had a template for the other side of the car.

Attached are some of the sketches and also ideas I got from looking at '30s cars. Also, I found asking opinions of my ideas really didn't help!!!!

Color choice and style will haunt you until you make a decision!

:-)

Best wishes,
Tom Veale
Blue_on_Blue.jpg
Gray_MossGreen.jpg
Red_On_Browh.jpg
DiamondRacingWheels_02.jpg
33_cream_claret.jpg
33_Rod_HTP2.jpg
33_Rod_HTP3.jpg
33_Rod_HTP4.jpg
33_Rod_RQtr3.jpg
IMG_20130927_140743.jpg

[33fromSD]

Hi Brad,

Obsessing over color and style seems to be something pretty common. I drove myself to a greater level of insanity doing that. Remember that #007 was one of the first of FFR's Street Rods to be finished and licensed for the street, so I didn't have a lot of pretty, finished ones from which to get ideas.

- First, I wanted to go 2-Tone, partly because there were so many beautiful two tone cars in the '30s. The other reason was that I felt the car's 'billboard' of tall, rather flat sides needed a break. I visited the car museum in Las Vegas (can't remember the name) that was left-overs from the old Harrad museum, I think. They had a dozen or more '30s cars with beautiful two tone paint schemes. It also reminded me that those cars also had two tone paint on the Wheels. Hence my choice for painted Steelies.

- Okay, next was attempting to find the right way of dividing the two tones in a way that honored the '30s cars but was a bit more 'modern' in concept. I don't know how many sketches I did and photocopies of the car's outline that I colored with marking pens, but it was a lot. Then I got thinking about all the math and science I've used in my life and came up with a "Sine Wave" curve for the divider.

- I had no idea of how I was going to shape the sine wave on the car's exterior but Bob Gibson of Total Auto Body had the technique. I sat in a chair watching and he laid on tape where I wanted it to go. He then took big sheets of paper and covered the side. Next he used a pencil to make a Grave Rubbing of the tape line. A few minutes of careful scissor work along the pencil line and we had a template for the other side of the car.

Attached are some of the sketches and also ideas I got from looking at '30s cars. Also, I found asking opinions of my ideas really didn't help!!!!

Color choice and style will haunt you until you make a decision!

:-)

Best wishes,
Tom Veale

Yup, color choice was the hardest part on mine too. At some point you just take the leap of faith. In my case it was a little easier since I painted it myself, so if i didn't like my choice I would just redo it for the cost of the paint and my time which still wasn't cheap (~$4K for material) but still cheaper than the $10K-$25K you going to pay a body shop to do it.

Jim

[BradC]

Hi Brad,

Obsessing over color and style seems to be something pretty common. I drove myself to a greater level of insanity doing that. Remember that #007 was one of the first of FFR's Street Rods to be finished and licensed for the street, so I didn't have a lot of pretty, finished ones from which to get ideas.

- First, I wanted to go 2-Tone, partly because there were so many beautiful two tone cars in the '30s. The other reason was that I felt the car's 'billboard' of tall, rather flat sides needed a break. I visited the car museum in Las Vegas (can't remember the name) that was left-overs from the old Harrad museum, I think. They had a dozen or more '30s cars with beautiful two tone paint schemes. It also reminded me that those cars also had two tone paint on the Wheels. Hence my choice for painted Steelies.

- Okay, next was attempting to find the right way of dividing the two tones in a way that honored the '30s cars but was a bit more 'modern' in concept. I don't know how many sketches I did and photocopies of the car's outline that I colored with marking pens, but it was a lot. Then I got thinking about all the math and science I've used in my life and came up with a "Sine Wave" curve for the divider.

- I had no idea of how I was going to shape the sine wave on the car's exterior but Bob Gibson of Total Auto Body had the technique. I sat in a chair watching and he laid on tape where I wanted it to go. He then took big sheets of paper and covered the side. Next he used a pencil to make a Grave Rubbing of the tape line. A few minutes of careful scissor work along the pencil line and we had a template for the other side of the car.

Attached are some of the sketches and also ideas I got from looking at '30s cars. Also, I found asking opinions of my ideas really didn't help!!!!

Color choice and style will haunt you until you make a decision!

:-)

Best wishes,
Tom Veale
Blue_on_Blue.jpg
Gray_MossGreen.jpg
Red_On_Browh.jpg
DiamondRacingWheels_02.jpg
33_cream_claret.jpg
33_Rod_HTP2.jpg
33_Rod_HTP3.jpg
33_Rod_HTP4.jpg
33_Rod_RQtr3.jpg
IMG_20130927_140743.jpg

Thank you! Yes, color is always a huge decision. I need to decide final within probably two months.

How have those McQueen fenders worked out for you in terms of rock chips on the rear/side? Do you have protective film on it?

[Tom Veale]

Hi Brad,
I covered the rear fenders with a protective film that's done a remarkable job. It's not going to prevent a chunk of broken concrete from doing some damage but generally it's pretty good with small stuff, bugs and cow manure!
If the front fenders had been a bit closer to the ground I think I'd get a bit less stuff thrown against the sides and rear fenders. I don't think I'm ready for Mud Flaps! Rounding corners where there's pebbles and sand, some will get tossed in the side window opening.
I've really loved your build here on FFForum. I recently linked it to a web site where I follow all things "Cars." They were discussing wrecked EVs and what should be done with their guts. I suggested they look at what you've managed with the Tesla 3 running gear.
Best wishes,
Tom Veale

[BradC]

Thanks, that's pretty in line with what I was expecting with these fenders. I'm ok with the form over function sacrifice with them. I was planning to have film done on the rear fenders and maybe the sides of the car.

Appreciate the comments on my build!!