Tesla Powered 33 Hot Rod

[q4stix]

Ok, sounds good. I'll let you know when I have it separated.

Just edited as you were posting. I think I'll need to take another route since I'm not moving the a-arms too

[BradC]

I got the chassis CAD file updated to match. Some areas were dead on but there were a few things off as expected. And of course correcting the problems resulted in less space not more - figures... I won't be able to keep any of the stock framework in the area below the trunk deck and behind the seat bulkhead but that's actually better. It frees up the space to make it so everything fits with better clearances - just a little more design and fab work.

Same goes for the batteries under the seats. They'll fit but not with clearance space like I wanted in case there's ever a bottom side impact. Unlikely as it is, I'd rather not chance it. There are other options to house the 26 packs I need so it's all good still.

[BradC]

Just edited as you were posting. I think I'll need to take another route since I'm not moving the a-arms too

Ok, got it.

[BradC]

Updated design accounting for the chassis CAD model adjustments. I need to finish the suspension mount flange designs and then I'll be ready to send it all out for laser cutting. Should be able to start fab work on the rear soon.

This battery layout works I think. I'll be building a box to house the batteries of course - this just shows the layout concept. I need to check it against the steering linkage path but there's still some room for tweaking the layout if needed. I'm hoping this keeps it close enough to the 50/50 weight distribution. There will probably be about 100lb more up front than with a Coyote but the Tesla motor and other components also weigh about 100lb more than than the IRS diff. and full fuel tank.

Motor Battery Layout 1.JPGMotor Battery Layout 2.JPGMotor Battery Layout 3.JPGMotor Battery Layout 4.JPG

[BradC]

Got a call today that the batteries shipped. I should get them tomorrow.

I'm just about ready to send all the suspension brackets out for laser cut. I had to make the lower trailing arm brackets removable to leave clearance for the motor installation. Should be plenty solid with 4 bolts.

Suspension Brackets 1.JPG

I kept looking at all the IRS stuff that needs to be cut out of the chassis - ugh. Estimating how much time it would take me to cut and grind it all out (probably a few days), the likelihood of me going too deep and leaving ugly low spots (highly likely), and irritating my neighbors with the noise... I decided no thank you and took it to a local fab shop to have it done. They should be able to remove it all in one piece fairly surgically so it could still be useful to someone. Maybe I can recover some of the cost having it removed by selling it. Either way I'm happy I don't have to do it myself.

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[progmgr1]

Looks like you're making great progress. The sub-frame design looks pretty good to me, but I would suggest adding a couple of dowel pins to the bolt-on bracket joint. Bolted joints don't generally like shear forces, especially in fatigue. Based on the rendering, it appears you have access to press in a pin or three.

I'm curious about the battery arrangement and enclosure design. Do you need to provide cooling for the cells or are they just stacked inside a sealed box? Do you have to take any special precautions against cell failure? I'm just wondering what the current "best practices" are these days.

Keith HR #894

[BradC]

Thanks for the input Keith. I can definitely pin those if needed.

For the LG Chem battery packs I'm using under more normal driving, with the occasional throttle mash, you don't need cooling. Most people seal them in weatherproof boxes for daily driver conversions. I'm going to have airflow running through the box just as an added measure since I don't care about major rain protection with this car. That will give me some extra headroom if I do want to rip it around. Many OEM leveraged packs (Tesla, etc..) have coolant paths so it covers a wide range of use conditions, but also adds a little more complexity for custom builds.

The BMS system will monitor each of the 96 total cells and can trigger warnings to the controller if anything goes out of voltage or temperature range.

[BradC]

I sent the brackets out for laser cutting and bending to SendCutSend. First time I've used them. I can't believe I just recently heard about it, and how reasonable their pricing is!! It was right at $200 for all 22 parts shipped. Two of them have bends. Doesn't even remotely compare in value by the hour to the time it would take me to machine them all on my CNC. Sooo much easier!

Website is really easy too: https://sendcutsend.com/

[progmgr1]

That looks like a great resource. Wish I had known of them a few years ago... What lead times are they quoting?

Keith HR #894

[BradC]

Few days supposedly - I let you know when I get them.

[BradC]

More new toys! Seeing them in person finally really helps better understand how they need to be stacked and wired. I already have a new idea for layout and box design that I'll try out in CAD.

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[BradC]

Got most of the new frame section parts cut yesterday. I stopped by to see the chassis Friday and they had the IRS section cut out, but hadn't done any clean up yet. They were able to do it as a single piece so I'll post it up for sale and see what happens. It looks really clean, much better than I could have done for sure. It should be done Tuesday.

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I sent the lower motor brace out for fab Friday and will hopefully have it early next week. I still need to make the lower control arm pivot piece / motor mount. The place closer to me where I got the chassis steel didn't carry 1.5" x 2" tube, but the place making the brace does so I'll grab it when I pick that up.

Lower Brace.JPG
LCS Pivot Block.JPG

[BradC]

Got the lower brace today. I'm impressed, they did a nice job on it. Dimensions are dead on. It was pretty reasonable at $150.

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The chassis is back too so I'll start assembling the new framework as soon as I get time.

[peterh226]

I sent the brackets out for laser cutting and bending to SendCutSend. First time I've used them. I can't believe I just recently heard about it, and how reasonable their pricing is!! It was right at $200 for all 22 parts shipped. Two of them have bends. Doesn't even remotely compare in value by the hour to the time it would take me to machine them all on my CNC. Sooo much easier!

Website is really easy too: https://sendcutsend.com/

These folks are wonderful. Fast and great quality. Pricing is very reasonable as well.

[Papa]

Wow! I'm totally impressed with the engineering. I'll be following this build to completion!

[BradC]

Wow! I'm totally impressed with the engineering. I'll be following this build to completion!

Thank you!

[BradC]

A friend of mine who knows a lot about suspension geometry pointed out that the motion ratio of the design I had wasn't ideal. The coil overs were too far inboard of the hub. Makes perfect sense now that I think about it. I was able to bring them outboard by flipping the MPP lower control arms upside down and using the Model 3 shock mount points. This makes it nearly identical to the stock FFR coil over location and I'll be able to use the mounts already on the chassis. I'll make nice cosmetic covers for the spring pockets so it will look nice.

Coil Over Adjustment 1.JPG

I guess this is technically the first part bolted on for the build!! I'll be tack welding all the new chassis structure in today. Fingers crossed everything fits up!

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[progmgr1]

Glad there was an easy solution to the shock location issue. It's good to have a second set of eyes looking over your shoulder when you venture away from the orthodox build path. Knowledgeable friends are an invaluable resource.

And, x2 on the engineering skills displayed to date!

Keith HR #894

[BradC]

Thanks Keith..

[BradC]

Got a good amount done today. This is as far as I could go because I need to re-make one of the frame parts - I got one of the compound angles backwards. Oops... My miter blade is shot so I couldn't do it today. I ordered a new one that should be here tomorrow so I'll get back on it then.

Everything went in perfect. I'm pretty surprised actually. All the measurements are dead on and it's all square and level to the chassis! It was interesting fixturing the main part I made to the chassis by myself. Nothing a few tie downs and magnets everywhere couldn't solve though.

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[33fromSD]

Great job, looks like it's coming together nicely. One question though, do you plan on welding the relief cuts the metal shop made to help bend the part in the attached pic?

Keeps the update coming, love-em!!

Jim

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[BradC]

Great job, looks like it's coming together nicely. One question though, do you plan on welding the relief cuts the metal shop made to help bend the part in the attached pic?

Keeps the update coming, love-em!!

Jim

fullsizeoutput_7f.jpeg

Thanks!! Yes, I planned on welding those up and grinding it all smooth. Just wanted to make sure no adjustments were needed before I do.

[jayguy]

Awesome work! I see you have nut-serts (riv-nuts, thread-serts, etc) installed. Are you worried about them spinning? Are you going to tack them in place as an extra precaution? I guess that would only really be a worry on bolts that required a specific torque or would be removed often enough to worry about, just wondering about it. This is all way beyond my simple bolt-on/bolt-off experience. :P

[BradC]

Awesome work! I see you have nut-serts (riv-nuts, thread-serts, etc) installed. Are you worried about them spinning? Are you going to tack them in place as an extra precaution? I guess that would only really be a worry on bolts that required a specific torque or would be removed often enough to worry about, just wondering about it. This is all way beyond my simple bolt-on/bolt-off experience. :P

Good question.. these are heavy duty ones that aren't supposed to twist. https://www.mcmaster.com/97467A727/ They're much larger diameter and took some pretty good force to set with the dual arm tool I have. Way more than the typical ones you see.

Like you said, it's not a high torque application so I think it's ok, but you never know. I was planning to machine thin Delrin bushing plates to go between the steel parts so they don't just make contact at the nut-sert flanges, but I could leave space for a couple of small ground flat welds. Might be a good idea just for extra measure.

[BradC]

Some images of what I got done today... The coil over is just hanging there with the wrong bolts for a quick visual check.

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[Nigel Allen]

Really enjoying watching and learning. Thanks for taking the time to document both the design work and the actual build, I will definitely be following along also.

This is a very exciting project.

Cheers,

Nigel

[BradC]

Really enjoying watching and learning. Thanks for taking the time to document both the design work and the actual build, I will definitely be following along also.

This is a very exciting project.

Cheers,

Nigel

Thank you!

[BradC]

All the main frame components are tacked in. Everything is plenty strong enough to support the motor and suspension for fit check as expected.

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The parts from SendCutSend shipped today and I should have them tomorrow. Looking forward so seeing how they came out.

[progmgr1]

Brad - Did you put some drain holes in the central U-channel brace? Looks like a place for moisture to collect, which couldn't be good long term...

Great progress! I appreciate your frequent updates and photos.

Keith HR #894

[BradC]

Brad - Did you put some drain holes in the central U-channel brace? Looks like a place for moisture to collect, which couldn't be good long term...

Great progress! I appreciate your frequent updates and photos.

Keith HR #894

You mean the sheet metal brace under the motor? Hadn't thought about that actually. It's not sealed up against the chassis so it wouldn't hold much water long term, but other things could get stuck in it I guess. Maybe I'll machine some openings in it. Thanks.

[BradC]

Wow. Seems well made, definitely well packaged, -- and a bag of sour patch kids!! Haha. I'm impressed.

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[BradC]

Holy crap the motor fits!!

It didn't go in the way I had planned but with a little time scratching my chin looking at it hanging almost in place I worked out a way to make it go in super easy - just remove the driver's side mount from the motor and then re-attach it once things are in place. The passenger side mount is part of the casting but the other one comes off because there's a coolant line behind it. Very simple now actually which is a load off for sure. There will be a little juggling with the coolant line if I ever need to pull the motor out but it's certainly doable.

I made a simple fixture to locate the three motor mount points and that worked out great.

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Two of the laser cut brackets for the lower drag links had the wrong angle bend, so those are being remade. SendCutSend was great about it and new parts should be here shortly. I'll be taking a week off the build out of town but I'll get back on it and start getting the suspension fit up. I think I might have some of the backordered parts from FFR too by then. Got a tracking notice for 2 boxes at 67lb so it's more than just the coilovers I ordered.

[BadAsp427]

Congratulations... this build is awesome.... Your "engineering" is crazy cool. This is stuff you find in "hot rod" magazines...

[BradC]

Congratulations... this build is awesome.... Your "engineering" is crazy cool. This is stuff you find in "hot rod" magazines...

Thank you!!

[BradC]

I'm back from vacation and got a few hours in on the project today. Driver side suspension is tacked in and seems to be all good. No binding through the full travel. I'll work on the other side tomorrow and then I should be pretty close to sending it back to the chassis shop for professional welding. I'll need to put the motor back in, throw some loaner wheels a friend mine has on the back, and set the body back down to make sure it's all where it should be first.

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[BradC]

The other side is tacked in. I put the MPP suspension linkages on (except the backordered drag links) and all seems good. There's plenty of camber and toe adjustment and everything articulates smooth. It's ready to try on some wheels and set the body on for visual check. I set the hub centerlines at 21.8" back from the rear vertical frame tube per what FFR told me so wheel spacing should be correct, but I definitely want to check it to make sure.

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[BradC]

Looks like it's good to go for final welding. The shop can fit it in next week so I'll take it in Monday.

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I've been working more on the battery layout too. After installing the steering rack and electric power steering motor, I had to change what I had before because of interferences. This layout clears everything (I think) and works with solid copper bus bars on 12 of the 13 series sets. One will need a short 2/0 patch cable from one side to the other which is fine. I think I have workable battery box mounting locations figured out now as well. The main service cutoff switch and samples of some wiring components are on order, so I can get going on more of the battery box design once those arrive.

Battery Layout 2.JPG Battery Layout 1.JPG

[33fromSD]

That's awesome!!

Jim

[BradC]

I just picked up the chassis from welding. Everything seems to have held position with the way they worked around it to balance out the heat load. They did a nice job capping off all the open ends and they actually found a weld that FFR missed on one of the front control arm plates. Kind of unexpected but whatever - things happen. It's all fixed up now.

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I can put everything together again now and take final measurements for the axles - need to have shorter ones made after pulling in the track width four inches. I was surprised to find nobody near me does that kind of work. I talked to a place in Denver last week that can do it though. The guy was really helpful so I'm pretty sure I'll go with them.

[BradC]

Super ultra high tech battery box mock up!! Seems really bulky and in the way, but according to the CAD model it fits under the hood with an inch or two clearance. I'm planning on setting the body on and mounting the grille, side panels, and hood just to make sure before I do any real fab work for the actual battery box.

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This is the box design as it stands now. There's still a lot more details to add in but it's shaping up.

Battery Box 1.JPG Battery Box 2.JPG