Matt in MN's Roadster

[mrglaeser]

Probably a little soon to start a build thread, but I'm bit excited. Just ordered a Base kit today, though I guess I could say started the build 3 years ago. I picked up a Foxbody pedal box in early 2019 and refurbed it that summer.

I've been picking up parts ever since. Wish I had ordered the kit and financed it back then with inflation and price increases the interest would have seemed like nothing! Oh well was trying to be responsible and save up a bit first.

Anyway if anyone cares here's my plan. At least until I modify it a 100 times.

-Base Kit
-Mostly New Parts (Some refurbished parts: Mustang Pedal Box and Spindles)
-Small Ford
-347 Shortblock from Ford Performance
-APR 185 Heads
-Trickflow TrackMaxx Cam,
-Trickflow Rockers
-Trickflow roller lifters
-TrickFlow True Roller double Timing chain
-Canton Racing 8qt Oil Pan
-Ford Performance High Volume Oil Pump
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifold
-Holley Sniper 4150 Stealth EFI
-Holley HyperSpark Ignition
-LMR Shorty Headers (to be heat wrapped)
-TKX – Five Speed with 0.68:1 Overdrive
-Centerforce II Clutch Kit
-QuickTime Steel Bellhousing
-Cable Activated Clutch(don’t know why just want that feeling)

FFR Upgrades
1.) Powder Coating
2.) Cutouts Performed
3.) Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
4.) Power Steering
5.) Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 17” X 9” Front and 17” X 10.5” Rear
6.) Front Sway bar - Original Plan after much advice I'm removing this from my order
7.) Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
8.) Center Dash Support - After seeing this at build school decided against
9.) Trunk Gas Strut Kit
10.) Wind Wings
11.) Electrical System Completion Components(Maybe – may buy just the harness and source switches elsewhere)
12.) Moser 8.8 (probably 3.55) - Found a 89 Thunderbird Super Coupe Rear assembly to rebuild - same Gear Ratio

Other Upgrades/Modification
1.) Power Brakes
2.) Driveshaft Safety Loop
3.) Speedhut Gauges (GPS)
4.) Wilwood Brakes Front and Back
5.) Breeze Auto – Offset Powersteering
6.) Breeze Auto – Heavy Duty Radiator Support/Hinges
7.) Forte – Mechanical Throttle Linkage
8.) Forte – Windshield Release Brackets
9.) Oil Cooler
10.) Radiator Removable Protective Mesh
11.) Footbox Vents
12.) Jeg’s Hotrod heater/defroster (more BTUs than FFR for the MN Falls)
13.) Heater Electric Cutoff
14.) Drain holes in footwells with removable plugs
15.) Removable Headrests
16.) Russ Tompson Throttle Pedal
17.) Russ Tompson Dead Pedal
18.) Russ Tompson Pedal Covers
19.) 65 Mustang ignition, lights, and heater knobs (thought I came up with this on my own but just saw a posting using these parts)
20.) Some Kind of under coating
21.) Electric Line Lock
22.) Wheel Well Liners (maybe we’ll have to see once I get started)
23.) Cup holders of some kind
24.) Luggage Rack
25.) Koolmat
26.) Billet Brake Reservoir
27.) Electric Cooling fan(s) – Anyone ever try a contour fan like we do with Fox body and 69/70 Mustangs?
28.) E brake cable routing mod
29.) Side pipe covers

Styling
-Blackout as much chromes as possible
-Black Side pipes & covers (thinking of deleting from kit and ordering GasN Touring Pipes Ceramic Coated Black)
-Midnight Blue pearl, ghost racings stripes
-Tan custom interior
-Quilted Dash and Door Panels
-Contrasting Stitching
-Contrasting door pulls and ‘Oh S4!7!’ handle on the Dash
-Removable Tunnel Cover
-Marine materials to be weather resistant

Not sure when more posts will happen. I'm reading other build blogs daily now myself.
updated: 10/17/2022

20220418_214902.jpg20200418_195335.jpg20200421_170502.jpg

[John Ibele]

Welcome to the fun! And yes, we care Your build plan looks like you've got experience with Mustangs and are unafraid of taking your own path to a distinctive roadster. Good for you. You also already know you'll change your plan at least 100 times before finishing, which puts you way ahead of the curve.

I've noticed that build plans over the past few years have featured a greater emphasis on styling, handling and convenience elements rather than horsepower, torque, and go-fast aspects. I think that's all in the direction of goodness, since its just about a given than any roadster built will have more power than you need for the street, and the styling and convenience items add more driving enjoyment and distinctive looks to these cars. All a lot of words to say ... I think you're focused on the right things. Best wishes for a delivery date that doesn't slip, and short POL! Cheers, John

[mrglaeser]

Welcome to the fun! And yes, we care Your build plan looks like you've got experience with Mustangs and are unafraid of taking your own path to a distinctive roadster. Good for you. You also already know you'll change your plan at least 100 times before finishing, which puts you way ahead of the curve.

I've noticed that build plans over the past few years have featured a greater emphasis on styling, handling and convenience elements rather than horsepower, torque, and go-fast aspects. I think that's all in the direction of goodness, since its just about a given than any roadster built will have more power than you need for the street, and the styling and convenience items add more driving enjoyment and distinctive looks to these cars. All a lot of words to say ... I think you're focused on the right things. Best wishes for a delivery date that doesn't slip, and short POL! Cheers, John

Hi John,

Thanks for the welcome! My first car was a 1969 Mustang that I still tinker with and I've played with a few others. I skimmed your build and I must say that I'm aspiring to put together my kit that nicely great work. What part of Minneapolis are you in? I used to live in North East but have since moved to the Northwest Burbs.

[mrglaeser]

Well - Still waiting for the kit to come next winter. But I'm trying to collect parts as best I can. Trying being the operative word. I ordered a Ford Racing Short Block in March, it we originally scheduled for delivery in April, then May, then June, then later in June, and finally I looked today and 1/12/2023.... more than 6 months from now and 9 months form the original order.

I hope it eventually comes because to reorder it today from someone else will cost another $1200. What a strange time. So I have Heads, Intake, Cam, Timing, Valve Train, Oil Pump, Valve covers, Oil Pan, Harmonic Balancers, Full Sniper Kit, Hyper Spark Ignition, Alternator, accessory serpentine kit, and most the bolt kits. but no block to it all on.

To be clear I'm not actually complaining. I wasn't planning to build it until winter anyway, but it's a sign I'm going to have to do a lot more planning and horse training to get the car built in a reasonable amount of time. I did find another supplier that said they could ship the same short block next week at a similar price (we shall see). So I ordered it. I can always cancel one of the orders or sell the the second one for a profit I guess.

[Gizmosrcool]

Hi Matt. Welcome. I am in similar situation and have a 9 mont wait. The deal on parts is nuts and the time can be used to source and get the best deals u can. Plus read all the builds to keep it fresh and next thing u know it’s build time. Ur parts list should pop out a great roadster. Look forward to following your build. Tom

[mrglaeser]

Well I suppose 4 months between posts is long enough right?

Still waiting on my my kit. 4 months to go. But with the holidays coming up I'm sure it will go fast. Still waiting on the engine short block. Still says 1/12/2023. But picking up a bunch of other parts. Got an axel assembly from a 1989 Cougar Souper Coupe (same as a Mustang GT just slightly longer axels). So this winters project will be rebuilding all that. Ordered a 31 Spline kit, install kit (all bearing and seals), and fancy aluminum cover from LMR hoping I can reuse the Ring and Pinion. Got a nice drop of black anodized bezels from Replicar, some cooling components from Breeze, and miscellaneous other bits as well. Also picked up all the components for foot vents using marine fans.



Also in September a friend and I took a road trip to Flint to attend MOTT College's FFR Build School. What a hoot. I came away with pages of notes, had a ton of questions answered, and got to play in a shop for 3 full days without any honey-dos or responsibilities. I personally loved the experience. Is it necessary to build an FFR probably not. Most the activities we did I have done before, but it is nice to see the process, even if abbreviated, from start to finish. Just making me want my kit more and more. (I'm on the passenger side my buddy who is 6'8 wedged himself into the driver side).



Also purchased a shop space with my dad and friend so we can do these projects and take the home garage from our wives. Having it is great. I re-assembled a body buck a local builder gave to me last weekend, and this weekend I built a rolling chassis dolly. Now I need to build a work bench, build a mini paint booth for aluminum panels, and set up a shop press when I start to get at the Axel Dis-assembly/re-assembly.




I guess I also didn't mention that I actually started my first Roadster project 3 years go restoring a Foxbody footbox. But I might take it apart again as my build school instructor offer to lend me a tool to bend the pedals out to make more room for my feet.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Missed your thread the firs time around Matt but just checked it out. Sounds like you're working on a solid plan but I'll offer a couple of thoughts.

Skip the front sway bar and put the money that you don't spend on it towards a set off FFR proprietary spindles for 2 reasons. With the standard FFR supplied spring rates the roadster has moderate understeer; if you stiffen the front either via a bar or higher spring rate without a corresponding change to the rear the car will push even worse. Second reason is that the Geometry of the FFR spindles is a great improvement over either Fox or SN95 spindles with the adapter in regards to spindle axis inclination as well as bump steer. The car will drive mush better with this setup and a bonus is that you can then use the 2 piston PBR calipers and larger discs than is possible with Fox and can't be accomplished on SN95 without modification.

What ratio is in the SC rear end? If you retain it do the math and let that be the determining factor on which version of the TKX you go with; either the 3.27 or 2.87 first and .68 or .72 fifth gear.

Good luck going forward!

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

A roadster in Minnesota, sounds like fun! Looks like a very solid plan. I'm far from an expert but happy to throw out a few FWIW comments.

Love the SBF, the Coyote is an amazing engine but I'm old school

I had a heck of a time finding a decent 351W block so I ended up just biting the bullet and buying a new aftermarket one. Found it in stock so was able to get it right to the machine shop. Bought a rotating assembly from Scat and made a 393.

You might want to check that 8qt oil pan, I think it's going to hang below the frame rails which is not good.

Everyone says the Ford clutch cable is far superior to the one FFR supplies so you might check it out.

As Jeff says the front sway bar will do more harm than good.

You're putting big Wilwood brakes on a relatively light car. You don't really need power brakes and installing the booster is not an easy job. Size the master cylinders correctly and you won't have any issues stopping other than hitting the steering wheel if you forget to cinch your belts tight.

Check out the seat heaters from Forte. Not very expensive and easy to install.
https://fortesparts.com/product/cobr...proof-regular/

Electric line lock? Sounds like a way to get in trouble lol

You might check out this cooling fan and mate it to the Breeze shroud.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-105390
https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/

[mrglaeser]

Missed your thread the firs time around Matt but just checked it out. Sounds like you're working on a solid plan but I'll offer a couple of thoughts.

Skip the front sway bar and put the money that you don't spend on it towards a set off FFR proprietary spindles for 2 reasons. With the standard FFR supplied spring rates the roadster has moderate understeer; if you stiffen the front either via a bar or higher spring rate without a corresponding change to the rear the car will push even worse. Second reason is that the Geometry of the FFR spindles is a great improvement over either Fox or SN95 spindles with the adapter in regards to spindle axis inclination as well as bump steer. The car will drive mush better with this setup and a bonus is that you can then use the 2 piston PBR calipers and larger discs than is possible with Fox and can't be accomplished on SN95 without modification.

What ratio is in the SC rear end? If you retain it do the math and let that be the determining factor on which version of the TKX you go with; either the 3.27 or 2.87 first and .68 or .72 fifth gear.

Good luck going forward!

Jeff

A roadster in Minnesota, sounds like fun! Looks like a very solid plan. I'm far from an expert but happy to throw out a few FWIW comments.

Love the SBF, the Coyote is an amazing engine but I'm old school

I had a heck of a time finding a decent 351W block so I ended up just biting the bullet and buying a new aftermarket one. Found it in stock so was able to get it right to the machine shop. Bought a rotating assembly from Scat and made a 393.

You might want to check that 8qt oil pan, I think it's going to hang below the frame rails which is not good.

Everyone says the Ford clutch cable is far superior to the one FFR supplies so you might check it out.

As Jeff says the front sway bar will do more harm than good.

You're putting big Wilwood brakes on a relatively light car. You don't really need power brakes and installing the booster is not an easy job. Size the master cylinders correctly and you won't have any issues stopping other than hitting the steering wheel if you forget to cinch your belts tight.

Check out the seat heaters from Forte. Not very expensive and easy to install.
https://fortesparts.com/product/cobr...proof-regular/

Electric line lock? Sounds like a way to get in trouble lol

You might check out this cooling fan and mate it to the Breeze shroud.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-105390
https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/

Guys - Thanks for the post.

- My instructor at build school had mentioned that he didn't like the Roll Bar and I had just read up on them last night begrudgingly coming to the same conclusion as the two of you. So delete on the anti way bar.

- I already have a pair of SN95 Spindles on the shelf so I'll give them a go.

- As for the brakes - people here may not believe me but I actually ran the numbers and Wilwoods are not that much more money if you are doing a Base Kit and buying new parts yourself and skipping a donor. Which is probably the smallest minority of folks doing a Roadster. I tried Napa, Summit, OReilly's, LMR, and a few other places. If I buy all the components Rotors, Calipers, Brackets, Pads, etc the cost was surprisingly close to buying the Wilwoods on sale summer. And since I purchased the front brake kit over a year ago I got a pretty darn good deal on them. Are the over kill. Probably. But my other consideration is should I not enjoy the car as much and want to sell it after it is built - it's an option that some people will consider worth while. Boosting them may be over kill I'm still on the fence on that one.

-I've purchased the Ford Racing Clutch Cable and a Firewall adjuster, also I changed the quadrant on my footbox to an aluminum one (though the self adjusting feature would have been nice)

-Cooling I have a weird idea to use a Contour Fan Kit like the Foxbody crowd with DCC independent controller with soft start and post shutoff cooling. I have a fan on a Mustang I'm going to pull and test fit and see if I like it. I've had great luck with them - Probably overkill and not as pretty, but redundant (dual fans)

-The Super Coupe Gear Ratio should be a 3.55 just like the ones offered by Factory Five. But I actually already had plan to verify it later this month before disassembly. The TKX I'm looking at has a 2.87:1 first and 0.68:1 final - Cruising at 70s assuming I have the tire height in my model correct would be mid 2000 rpms.

-Will have to look at the heated seats. I was thinking with a good heater I could drive into the Fall most years.

[Jeff Kleiner]

- I already have a pair of SN95 Spindles on the shelf so I'll give them a go.

-The Super Coupe Gear Ratio should be a 3.55 just like the ones offered by Factory Five. But I actually already had plan to verify it later this month before disassembly. The TKX I'm looking at has a 2.87:1 first and 0.68:1 final - Cruising at 70s assuming I have the tire height in my model correct would be mid 2000 rpms.

Which year are the SN95 spindles? 1994-1995 are preferred; they have the dogleg in the steering arm which is much better for bump steer geometry; !996 and later have a straight arm. Additionally, the 1996 and later spindles will move the wheel & tire out about 3/8' farther which although it doesn't seem like much often creates tire to body interference unless you dial in more aggressive negative camber.

That would be my choice on the TKX as well. The version with 3.27 first gear coupled with a 3.55 rear end winds up creating a really short first gear combination of 11.6:1 overall; 2.87 first with 3.55 rear winds up with a much more usable 10.2:1 overall.

Cheers!

Jeff

[edwardb]

I'll just chime in and agree with Jeff regarding the spindles. I've had builds with both SN95 spindles (the "good" ones) and since then the Factory Five designed 2-piece spindles. The difference, especially when combined with power steering and the increased caster, is the difference between an OK driving car and one that is vastly improved. Really no comparison with the total lack of bump steer and how easily it cruises down the highway without feeling jumpy or darty. I get there are lots of builds with the Mustang spindles before the upgraded ones were available. And various mods to make them a bit better. But for new builds, really makes sense to figure out a way to use the newer spindles. As a percent of the total build cost, it's a minor percentage and the difference in the quality of how your car will drive and how you'll enjoy it is dramatic. Figure out a way to save money somewhere else if budget is the issue. Something you can change later if you have to. But whatever spindles you install now will likely stay there as there are other dependencies.

[mrglaeser]

Which year are the SN95 spindles? 1994-1995 are preferred; they have the dogleg in the steering arm which is much better for bump steer geometry; !996 and later have a straight arm. Additionally, the 1996 and later spindles will move the wheel & tire out about 3/8' farther which although it doesn't seem like much often creates tire to body interference unless you dial in more aggressive negative camber.

That would be my choice on the TKX as well. The version with 3.27 first gear coupled with a 3.55 rear end winds up creating a really short first gear combination of 11.6:1 overall; 2.87 first with 3.55 rear winds up with a much more usable 10.2:1 overall.

Cheers!

Jeff

I'll just chime in and agree with Jeff regarding the spindles. I've had builds with both SN95 spindles (the "good" ones) and since then the Factory Five designed 2-piece spindles. The difference, especially when combined with power steering and the increased caster, is the difference between an OK driving car and one that is vastly improved. Really no comparison with the total lack of bump steer and how easily it cruises down the highway without feeling jumpy or darty. I get there are lots of builds with the Mustang spindles before the upgraded ones were available. And various mods to make them a bit better. But for new builds, really makes sense to figure out a way to use the newer spindles. As a percent of the total build cost, it's a minor percentage and the difference in the quality of how your car will drive and how you'll enjoy it is dramatic. Figure out a way to save money somewhere else if budget is the issue. Something you can change later if you have to. But whatever spindles you install now will likely stay there as there are other dependencies.

Jeff they are 95 spindles. I was originally thinking of going with 95 Front Brakes so when I saw a good pair at a decent price 3 years ago I grabbed them

Edward I'll have to have a think on all of that. It isn't so much the budget as that I already have them, but I could probably ebay them. I do have Breeze Power Steering centering kit which I think is supposed to help. I have until Jan to make my final decision. I appreciate the input.

[mrglaeser]

Ok Only three months between posts this time. I think that is a little better. Just received an email from Factory Five today. I have one week to finalize my order! So it is getting close.

Only 2 Roadster Activities have been going on in the last couple months.

1st I built a little collapsible and moveable 'paint booth' so I can paint all the panels as I go year round. We have an ok amount of space, but there are several other cars in the shop that I share and I have no desire to overspray on my wife's Mustang, or my Friends M2. I can say this though. I hate working with 2x2s they get real wonky real fast. But I think the end result will work. I'll put a paint cloth down, move the 'booth' on top of it and then cover the top with some 2 mil plastic. The front doors can be open to any angle so I can close it off while thing dry to keep out any thing floating around the shop. There are also 3 levels I can hang the dowl to attach items to paint depending on how big they are.




Second next I build at 30"x96" work bench with a vise and table grinder.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999..._174444-XL.jpg

If anyone is curious it's w4' x d4'6" x h8'4"


(original post broken up because of too many pictures)

[mrglaeser]

Finally I got to work on the rear end. I purchased a 89 1989 t bird super coupe rear end for a couple hundred bucks. You can see it in my post above sitting next to the shelves of parts. I wish I had taken a close up of it before starting work. here is a shot after I removed all the extra suspension bits.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999..._125636-XL.jpg



I stripped all the lines, bushings, suspension bits off of it, and cut the extra brackets they weld on for the Disc Brakes (I've got Wilwood rears). I also found the ring gear was rusted and un-usable. Bummer. So I order a new ring and pinion set from LMR. I've seen housing go for more than what I picked this up for so I guess I'm still ahead. After that I pulled the gears/spool, pinion, knocked out the races, removed all seals, and pulled the axel bearings. I have a new 31 spline kit to put in from LMR which includes Axles, Spool, bearings, seals, crush sleeve, flange nut, and fluids. I also got a nice aluminum cover.

[mrglaeser]

After that off to sandblasting and powder coating.





So maybe this weekend I'll start to put parts back in.

Also look what the kids got me for Christmas!



Hopefully in a month I'll have some delivery photos and maybe I be ambition and get a video too.


Hopefully in a month I'll have some delivery photos and maybe I be ambition and get a video too.

[mrglaeser]

It's starting to happen.
- I got an email from Factory Five on Friday that this Friday is my deadline for changes!
- Still on track for 2/11.
- Sent my changes on Monday morning, received the updated invoice last night.
- Got ahold of Stewart Transportation and got on their list.

Now I just need to pay.

More axel assembly
building tomorrow and maybe Sunday.

[mrglaeser]

More Excitement!

1.) Just got off the phone with Stewart Transport and they are picking up my kit from FFR next Friday 2/17 and it should be delivered 2/21-2/23.

2.) Also my Ford Racing short block did not show up and I have a new delivery date of the first week of April, but I think this date is more reliable because a backup order I have at another supplier was changed to 1 week after that where before it said unknown.

Maybe this weekend I can finish the rear assembly build. I have the backlash where it needs to be but the pinon depth reads a little shallow. The new flange is pretty tight on the new pinion and I didn't have my puller at the shop so I could only go so far a couple weeks ago (Delay since for a Hockey tournament) Though once that is done I'll have a slight delay in completely finishing the complete rear setup as I'm waiting for the rear Wilwood kit to show up. Ordered in early December no news of when it will get shipped.

[mrglaeser]

A couple of photos
1.) Pressing the old bearing off the old pinion to get at the spacer and do measurements


2.)New Limited Slip 31 Spline Spool from Ford Racing


3.)New Ring Gear and Pinion Kit from Ford racing


4.)New Cover from LMR


5.)Pressing the new bearings on the new spool


6.)Hello Pinion Gear


7.)Assembled Spool with Ring Gear and Bearings

[DanQ]

Hi from another Minnesota builder. My 33 Hot Rod should arrive sometime in June (via Stewart Transportation) I live in Chaska, SW metro area of the TC.

[mrglaeser]

I got a call from the Stewart Transport driver.... My kit arrives tomorrow! Can not wait.

[mrglaeser]

Kit was delivered yesterday. Even though we got a little snow in the morning and it was a bit cold unloading the truck. Mark from Stewart Transport was awesome and everything went smoothly. Took less than an hour. I guess this weekend I'll be going through dozens of boxes to verify inventory.

[mrglaeser]

[mrglaeser]

In other news. My short block is further delayed. From April 5 now to September 5 at Summit or from April 8 to June 7 with Jegs. I don't really believe either supplier at this point. I don't really need it that soon, but it would be nice to have a realistic timeline.

[Blitzboy54]

This is a great thread!

A couple thoughts from my experience. 1st, that steering wheel is beautiful. 2nd I rebuilt a fox body rear end and left the quad shocks on as well as I assumed they would really be in the way. I ended up grinding them off because once in the car I didn't like the look, to each his own on that. I just wanted to give you a heads up I had a change of heart after it was installed.

I look forward to following along

[Scneal]

Congrats on your kit arriving Matt. Scott

[cc2Arider]

Awesome! I noticed you were able to use your own dolly to offload from the truck

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

What an exciting day! Why is your grass white?

[John Ibele]

What an exciting day! Why is your grass white?

... and just watch how fast it grows in the next two days.

[mrglaeser]

... and just watch how fast it grows in the next two days.

Funny Guy John! It already grew a couple inches yesterday but tonight it's supposed to be 10 times worse. Thanks for stopping by for the delivery it was great to have someone with a little experience with FFR Roadsters to help!

[mrglaeser]

Awesome! I noticed you were able to use your own dolly to offload from the truck

Craig C

One of the first things I built. I pulled the designs off this forum somewhere and it fits like a glove! My only change was to use the really tall pneumatic wheels. So it sits a foot or so taller than the specs. But I like that easier to get at the suspension work and under the frame.

[mrglaeser]

Congrats on your kit arriving Matt. Scott

Thanks Scott. You'll have to swing by sometime. John and I were talking about the late April/Early May get together you and I had discussed last fall. Keep an Eye open in the next couple weeks I'll be putting your body buck to good use. This weekend is of course inventory time.

[mrglaeser]

This is a great thread!

A couple thoughts from my experience. 1st, that steering wheel is beautiful. 2nd I rebuilt a fox body rear end and left the quad shocks on as well as I assumed they would really be in the way. I ended up grinding them off because once in the car I didn't like the look, to each his own on that. I just wanted to give you a heads up I had a change of heart after it was installed.

I look forward to following along

Thanks for the note. It's always easier to remove than to put back! The angle grinder does in 15 minuets what a welder might take hours to put back.

[John Ibele]

Funny Guy John! It already grew a couple inches yesterday but tonight it's supposed to be 10 times worse. Thanks for stopping by for the delivery it was great to have someone with a little experience with FFR Roadsters to help!

Thanks for inviting me to join in! It was great seeing the awesome car condo, and delivery days are always fun.

One of the first things I built. I pulled the designs off this forum somewhere and it fits like a glove! My only change was to use the really tall pneumatic wheels. So it sits a foot or so taller than the specs. But I like that easier to get at the suspension work and under the frame.

... and handy for getting over that 'tall white grass' Mike noted ...

[mrglaeser]

In addition to kit delivery on Monday I also pretty much finished the rear axel assembly. The only thing left is to torque down the cover(I had to order a 5.5 mm Hex socket which is a weird size) and install the wheel studs. The rear brakes have been on order since the first week of December. Who knows when those will show. But I have plenty of other things to do now anyway.
Axel and Seals installed


Fuzzy shot of side by side comparison of 28 v 31 Spline Axels. 1.23 cs 1.35 inch thickness


Axel's Slipped in


C-Clips Installed


Retaining pin and securing bolt installed


Gasket and cover hand tight (waiting on correct tool to torque)
https://mattglaeser.smugmug.com/Home...er/i-nWmVtmc/A

Forgot to take a pick of the upper bushings being installed but that is done too
I used this tool and it worked great

https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMT1/79-04-M...m-Bushing-Tool

[mrglaeser]

ok 5 hours and 40 minutes later and inventory is done.

Still to be delivered:
Certificate of Origin
Nameplate
Aluminum Center Section (steering component)
Steering Wheel Boss
1/2 Rollbar Box (4 link parts)
10' 3/4 Wire Loom
Rivet Package this is the biggest surprise these things are pretty common you think they'd have many suppliers for something so basic. Good thing i bought extras from Replicar So i can still get started right away.
4' 16 GA Blue Wire - again something pretty basic so surprising they don't have it
Ground Strap - again very common thing to be out of
5 PT Seat Harness, Black
Door Latch Fasteners
latch striker - though I did get all the other door latch parts
Engine Harness Block off plate
Dash Box
Outer Tie Rod Ends - this is a bummer as these will come up early in the build
Carriage Bolts for the Hood Hinge - Again pretty basic thing to be out of
185 Degree Theromostat Swtich

One thing I was surprised at is how nice the basic gauges are. I already have a set from Speethut and the GPS Speedo is going to be nice, but these are pretty good. Everything was packaged really well I didn't find anything damaged. I'm just glad the bookkeeping is over and next weekend we can pull the body and get going.

[Junbug]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVoZBCwftb4


ok 5 hours and 40 minutes later and inventory is done.

Still to be delivered:
Certificate of Origin
Nameplate
Aluminum Center Section (steering component)
Steering Wheel Boss
1/2 Rollbar Box (4 link parts)
10' 3/4 Wire Loom
Rivet Package this is the biggest surprise these things are pretty common you think they'd have many suppliers for something so basic. Good thing i bought extras from Replicar So i can still get started right away.
4' 16 GA Blue Wire - again something pretty basic so surprising they don't have it
Ground Strap - again very common thing to be out of
5 PT Seat Harness, Black
Door Latch Fasteners
latch striker - though I did get all the other door latch parts
Engine Harness Block off plate
Dash Box
Outer Tie Rod Ends - this is a bummer as these will come up early in the build
Carriage Bolts for the Hood Hinge - Again pretty basic thing to be out of
185 Degree Theromostat Swtich

One thing I was surprised at is how nice the basic gauges are. I already have a set from Speethut and the GPS Speedo is going to be nice, but these are pretty good. Everything was packaged really well I didn't find anything damaged. I'm just glad the bookkeeping is over and next weekend we can pull the body and get going.

Matt,
I'm a few weeks ahead of you as my kit was delivered 1/20/23, and I'm still awaiting my rivets, many of the same things as you but also the IRS fastener bolts. Exciting time to actually receive the kit after so long! Good luck with your build!
-Bryan

[mladen]

You don't have to block your build on the tie rods, and many other things. I just started the engine this week, and I technically still don't need them until I'm ready to test drive. So don't worry about it

[mrglaeser]

You don't have to block your build on the tie rods, and many other things. I just started the engine this week, and I technically still don't need them until I'm ready to test drive. So don't worry about it

That is fair. But you do need Rivets but those I got.

[mladen]

I ended up buying a bunch of Amazon when I bought the rivet gun, even before my kit arrived, so I mostly used those

[mrglaeser]

Lots of work to get to the starting point!

Put some padding on the body buck


Created a body support


Took the doors off
https://mattglaeser.smugmug.com/Home...er/i-nh96D4R/A

Took the trunk off



Took the Body off and moved it to the body buck


Labeled, photo'd, took notes, and removed all the aluminum panels




Ready for step 1 - started to look at the F-panels and the drivers side doesn't line up so well. This lead to some measuring and it looks like the bar that runs the length of the engine compartment was welded in 1/4-1/2 inch further to the rear of the car than the passenger side. This means the radiator support and dash hoop are both at a very slight angle. Not sure if I should worry about this or not.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-not-lining-up