Matt in MN's Roadster

[John Ibele]

Ready for step 1 - started to look at the F-panels and the drivers side doesn't line up so well. This lead to some measuring and it looks like the bar that runs the length of the engine compartment was welded in 1/4-1/2 inch further to the rear of the car than the passenger side. This means the radiator support and dash hoop are both at a very slight angle. Not sure if I should worry about this or not.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-not-lining-up

Hey Matt, saw your associated thread and responses. Good to post, and good feedback received. It's a typical hump to get over with the first panel or two. A recurring theme through the build is questions like these ... is it 'typical', or is there something off with what FFR sent me? You'll get dialed in pretty quickly. If something needs minor tweaking (and this one was fairly minor, actually), I'd typically have at it. But if anything was off in a major way, in retrospect ... it was me that was off, not any of the parts.

As for raised welds keeping aluminum from sitting flush: I would hit the aluminum over the weld with a rubber hammer, and with one or two blows have a panel which fit around the weld perfectly. Could always grind down the weld and recoat it for protection from rust, but the way I used was quick, easy, and turned in a perfectly acceptable result (which wouldn't been seen in the end anyway).

[mrglaeser]

Pretty Good week.

Trimmed and fitted the F-panels.




A couple coats of self etching primer


Some black on the Engine side and bed liner on the wheel side


Then on to the car

[mrglaeser]

Next we put the front upper and lower control arms on. One thing I found to be a PIA is on the upper arm on the holes toward the rear of the car there is literally no way to get a wrench or socket on the stop nut. I ended up cramming a washer in one case and a medium flat screw driver in the other - in between the mount and the nut to get it to stop spinning. Seems to have worked out ok.




Then on to the front coil overs.




I didn't see any instructions on the set screw so I just put them in loose so I don't lose them. I'm assuming there will be adjustments to make in the future and then tighten them. No real issue getting them onto the car. Not sure it would have been much fun if I didn't have some help. All those spacers, nuts, bolts, and arms to old in addition to the coil over.

[mrglaeser]

Was going to move onto Spindles, hubs, and front brakes, but I didn't know I needed spindle to strut bolts if using SN95 spindles and didn't have them. So those are on order. Also thought about doing the rear axel but I didn't have the right torque wrench with me to install the new aluminum cover so I could fill it. I figured doing the final prep of the rear axel would be easier out of the car. But I did get the spindle brackets painted.







One bummer for the day was the powder coat flaked when I torqued the lower control arm down. I'll have to cut it and do a little touch up later.

[mrglaeser]

Hey Matt, saw your associated thread and responses. Good to post, and good feedback received. It's a typical hump to get over with the first panel or two. A recurring theme through the build is questions like these ... is it 'typical', or is there something off with what FFR sent me? You'll get dialed in pretty quickly. If something needs minor tweaking (and this one was fairly minor, actually), I'd typically have at it. But if anything was off in a major way, in retrospect ... it was me that was off, not any of the parts.

As for raised welds keeping aluminum from sitting flush: I would hit the aluminum over the weld with a rubber hammer, and with one or two blows have a panel which fit around the weld perfectly. Could always grind down the weld and recoat it for protection from rust, but the way I used was quick, easy, and turned in a perfectly acceptable result (which wouldn't been seen in the end anyway).

Hey John thanks for the reply. Wish I had seen this earlier this week. Yeah I did a little trimming and I'm decently happy with the fitting.

[John Ibele]

Your post #43 ... I can't remember if this was it, but I know I found some of these to be handy at some point during the suspension installation.

Coilovers ... I'm pretty sure most folks don't ever tighten the set screw. From what I've read for the most part they don't move. My challenge was getting them to move enough ... little space to work in, and the friction was hard for me to overcome. I picked up some of this stuff, which I had read about in setup recommendations on another site (didn't find much on Koni's site). The stuff is sold in bike stores, and is supposed to work well in lubricating without picking up debris when on the road. I wanted something to reduce friction, and sure couldn't picture gooping up my shocks with anti-seize.

Looks like you're having fun out there in the car palace!

[Windsor]

Then on to the front coil overs.




I didn't see any instructions on the set screw so I just put them in loose so I don't lose them. I'm assuming there will be adjustments to make in the future and then tighten them. No real issue getting them onto the car. Not sure it would have been much fun if I didn't have some help. All those spacers, nuts, bolts, and arms to old in addition to the coil over.

Before you get too deep into the front-end build, did you verify the rebound setting on the Koni reds? Several builders have noted that the settings aren't consistent from the factory. Setting it while installed is unpleasant if not impossible.

Frank (i.e.427) has a great video on this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOCEEYdNYOI&t=18m58s

[mrglaeser]

Before you get too deep into the front-end build, did you verify the rebound setting on the Koni reds? Several builders have noted that the settings aren't consistent from the factory. Setting it while installed is unpleasant if not impossible.

Frank (i.e.427) has a great video on this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOCEEYdNYOI&t=18m58s

Hi Rob - Thank for the note. I actually watched that video mid-week and when I worked the car today I pulled out the Coilovers off and checked them before moving on. Wish that little note was in the manual. They did tell us about this in build school but I didn't write it down. So when I saw video it was a head slapper!

[mrglaeser]

Ok pretty decent weekend in shop. Last one i'm going to have until mid-April.

First as noted above I pulled the front Coil overs and verified the Konis were set correctly. Over the week I got several parts deliveries. Included were the SN95 strut bolts and nuts. So I installed the spindles and brackets.



Then I torqued the differential cover down, set the bearing cap supports, and filled the dif. Once some help got to the shop we put on the brackets on the axle. I did need to bend one out to get it to fit, and there was persuading with mallets and dead-blows involved.



On to the lower and upper control arms:


We checked the settings on the rear coil overs and assembled them. Then bolted it all to the frame. That was a lot more physical effort than I thought. I'm glad I had a hand it's probably not something that should be tackled alone.





I really like the way the QA1 control arms look. Especially the uppers:

[mrglaeser]

Also spent some time working on the front rotors (well the drivers side). It took me about six times to finally get a decent safety wire setup between two of the bolts on the Wilwoods. By the sixth pair of bolts I felt I was getting decent at them.







One down one to go.

[Fixit]

Just caught your thread...
A belated "Welcome to the Asylum!"

I'm also in MN (Mound). If you're on FB, we have a group, MN-WI Cobra Builders. I also know Mr. Ibele - he helped me unload #9365 a few years ago.

[mrglaeser]

Just caught your thread...
A belated "Welcome to the Asylum!"

I'm also in MN (Mound). If you're on FB, we have a group, MN-WI Cobra Builders. I also know Mr. Ibele - he helped me unload #9365 a few years ago.

Hey John! I'm out in Maple Grove. I am on the FB Group. Watch the FB group in a couple of weeks - I was hoping to invite everyone to a Grill Out end of April or Early May. Scott up in North Oaks and I talked about last fall. My shop space is in Corcoran and there are some pretty nice twisty roads out there for people to drive if they are willing to come out.

[mrglaeser]

Another fun weekend working on the roadster last weekend. Didn't get quite as much done as previous weeks. First I finished the safety wire for both rotors and put them on the care using some spare lug nuts. I was then able to install the Driver's side caliper. I have to wait on the pass. side as I need some different shims.






I think is funny that in the front brake kit Wilwood tells you 11 times that you should hire a professional so you don't kill yourself.

[mrglaeser]

Next was to mock up the Firewall, Dash, and heater.


Should Fit






I bought a kit from Jegs rather than FFR because it is 28,000 BTU v 16,000. I like to drive in the fall and I hope this buys me a few weeks each year.... I should also note that I'm using an FFMetal extended firewall. What a nice piece that is. Twice as think as the FFR piece and nicely fabb'd.



Time to cut...





The older one took to filing burrs the younger not so thrilled.

[mrglaeser]

I originally thought I'd cut the blower motor and pipes separately but with this unit that doesn't really work.

[mrglaeser]

On to Drilling holes and some paint









Fortunately/unfortunately I'm heading off for a two week vacation so it will be at least 3 before I can install the firewall and move on to the drivers foot box/Pedal box/steering

[cc2Arider]

Nice progress!

Craig C

[mrglaeser]

Ok I got back from Vacation a week and 1/2 ago and have been making some progress again. First riveted the Firewall in place and installed the Heater box.

[mrglaeser]

Next I fit the drivers footbox front panel to the car and trimmed it. Right before I started drilling I realized I fit the wrong panel. I'm using a Foxbody pedal box. DOH!!


So I did it again with the correct panel. Then I painted it and had a horrible run. DOH!!. So I stripped it and did it again. You know the ole saying' make it nice by doin' it twice!





I'll get that installed tomorrow I think. While I was messing that panel up several times I also worked on the pedal box.

First I took it apart and cut all the bit off the manual says to.



Then I fit it to the car - sorry no picks here. But I will say it is a lot easier getting the box in and out with no pedals installed.
After that I bent the pedals to the left to add some clearance for my feet. I found this a bit nerve racking as I didn't want to mess it up.



Assembled everything and installed loosely in the car. Once the front panel is riveted I'll come back and tighten everything.





After the photo above I took the speed control and bracket off as it caused interference with the Russ Thompson throttle pedal.

[mrglaeser]

Now I'm prepping to install the power steering rack. I purchased the Breeze centering kit. What super nice hardware that is . To bad it will be hidden by the install.





I also purchased the Moog Ends for more adjustability

[cc2Arider]

Hi Matt,

I've heard others use the Breeze centering kit...what's in the kit? Simply offset sleeves?

And at the risk of getting flamed ('cause I'm sure this has been asked many times before), why does the rack need to be centered?

Thanks in advance

Craig C

[mrglaeser]

Hi Matt,

I've heard others use the Breeze centering kit...what's in the kit? Simply offset sleeves?

And at the risk of getting flamed ('cause I'm sure this has been asked many times before), why does the rack need to be centered?

Thanks in advance

Craig C

The main benefit of the kit is to reduce bump steer. This mostly needed for donor parts. The foxbody or sn95 spindles. I don't think it as much of an issue with the FFR spindles. The second benefit is that the rack as is slightly off center and mounted a little low. This kit changes that too. Finally there some rigdity added froming to solid bushings.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/of...ter-and-coupe/

[mrglaeser]

The last week feels productive.. Though I'm not 100% happy with the results. 95%. I'll have to touch up some paint and fill in some gaps I created during fitment. But still happy to have the frame start looking more like go-kart.

I got the lower and middle steering shafts installed. Found out they didn't send me the upper shaft. Email FFR and one came today will put it in later this week.

Then most of the time was spend fitting the passenger foot box and floor, painting, and installing.












a

[mrglaeser]

This next part was probably a mistake. I fit the floor without the footbox. Which I found out later was not the way to do it.







You can see that I scraped the heck out of the front corner of the footbox/tunnel junction. Also had to trim more of the floor after paint. Still also not happy with the fit in general in that area. Going to trim some and maybe create a patch panel. After that I can touch the paint with a brush. Good news is it will all end up under the carpet.

[mrglaeser]

While waiting for paint to dry I also pulled out all the fuel tank parts and put them together so I'll be ready to install them once I get some more sheet metal work completed.





Here are a couple shoots of the outside of the Foot Box

[mrglaeser]

OK Lots of sheet metal is in the car after the last week and 1/2.

- Passenger Side/under door metal
- Driver Inner Foot box panels
- Driver Foot box Floor
- Driver Floor
- Driver Side/Under Door metal
- Driver & Passenger rear cockpit outside panels
- Driver & Passenger rear inner cockpit panels
- Rear Transmission tunnel







Created a little bracket to mount the fuel filter too, painted, and installed.

[mrglaeser]

Also installed the gas tank. it was a little bit of a pain because I had to bend some metal down. Maybe this is in the donor prep section but I didn't see this noted - I did by a new fox gas tank from LMR maybe the FFR ones don't need this. Also had to trim just a bit of metal on the front passenger side of the tank and even then the strap barely cleared.



The jack could not lift the tank high enough... so ratchet straps to the rescue. here is where the tank is bent up creating an issue getting it to sit against the metal support.





20 minutes of additional messing around and the tank was in.

[mrglaeser]

Additionally I installed the fuel pressure regulator and used some string to measure the lines. I'm going to use braided nylon -6AN lines. hope I did leave too much or too little slack in the string.





Next will be fitting the brake power booster. So it might be a while until I get that figured out.

[mrglaeser]

OK been a minute since I was on the site again. A little slower on progress. I ordered and installed the fuel lines:

[mrglaeser]

After the Fuel lines I installed a Charcoal canister from a Yamaha motor Cycle and ran the hoses for it





Chopped the frame up a little to make room for the power booster:






And now I'm prepping to enlarge the hole for the brake push rod.




I also fit the drop battery box for the truck. Just a touch of grinding. Plus marked the rivet holes, disassembled it, and painted it. But I didn't take photos. So those will come next once it's also installed.

[mrglaeser]

Ok making slow progress.

I honed out the hole for the power brake booster using a Harbor Freight dye grinder that was lent to me. Our tiny air compressor allowed me to grind 20-40 seconds then a minute to recharge, grind 30-50 seconds, then a minute to re-charge. Rinse and repeat for 90 min. But it did the job very well. I guess a bigger tank and more powerful compressor are on the x-mas list.











If I do another kit someday. Along with doing all the panel fitting at one time and sending it out to powder coat, I'm also going to cut this hole before installing parts. After cleaning everything up I tried installing the booster.. No-Go. I had purchased a 93 Cobra Brake booster and it was just to large. The steering kept hitting it. I ended up needing to get a standard V8 Brake Booster which fit pretty well.

More on this here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...learance-issue

[mrglaeser]

Once the booster was sorted out I was able to install it and the Whitby Frame Mod.






Once done with that I installed the Wilwood rear brakes.



I do need to call/contact Wilwood as the centering rig doesn't line up with the 'hub' on my axle. So not sure if I should use it get a different one or what.

I also painted, assembled, and installed the FFmetal rear battery box. That is a real nice piece of kit.









Seems the trick to getting my girls to help is letting them use the power rivet gun. They seem to enjoy the metal work the most so far.

[mrglaeser]

Whelp.... Sometimes $hI7 happens. The dolly under my roadster gave out in one corner and collapsed the back half of the rig. I was luckily not under it and the total damages are some scratches to the gas tank over and the tube frame (mostly from jacking the car up when the front was quite high and the back was on the floor).



Everything is on jack stands now. I think the fix is to make the dolly a little longer to change where the weight is centered, center the 2 x 6s the wheels are mounted on the 4x4s, pre-drill the screws to keep the wood from cracking.

Meh. Time for fireworks tomorrow. Worry about the dolly next weekend.

[mrglaeser]

Before my dolly broke I had gotten most of the brake lines run.

First I set the pushrod depth and bolted the MC down to the power booster. I also installed the line lock and proportioning valve.



Because I purchased a base kit the brake line brackets don't work with the Wilwood's and I only got them for the front - I guess donors use brackets from the car. So I made 4 new brackets and orders some c/spring clips.

[mrglaeser]

Then I started running the lines. It was the first time I worked with nickel - copper lines. It was pretty nice compared to bending the steel lines. Plus I didn't have to use any of the junctions so a few less places to cause links. I also tried this new flaring tool which worked great. I broke the 3/16 die on my 30 year old Napa kit on like the 3rd flare.



I find it funny how crazy lines look off the car.


Additionally I'm tapping holes and using 1/4" screws for the retainers just in case I need to pull things apart again. Did the same with the fuel lines.


Anyway I pretty happy with the end results.

[danmas]

Then I started running the lines. It was the first time I worked with nickel - copper lines. It was pretty nice compared to bending the steel lines. Plus I didn't have to use any of the junctions so a few less places to cause links. I also tried this new flaring tool which worked great. I broke the 3/16 die on my 30 year old Napa kit on like the 3rd flare.



I find it funny how crazy lines look off the car.


Additionally I'm tapping holes and using 1/4" screws for the retainers just in case I need to pull things apart again. Did the same with the fuel lines.


Anyway I pretty happy with the end results.

Your lines look fabulous. Your right wheel in the last picture is creeping me out.

[mrglaeser]

Your lines look fabulous. Your right wheel in the last picture is creeping me out.

Thanks danmas - if you go up a couple posts there is a picture of a broken dolly! It gave out today. No real damage to the car or people. The 2x6 the wheel was mounted to cracked right down the middle. I saw the wheel when I did the line to the rear and was planning my next move. But I guess I took a day to long. I was actually testing the stability of the setup today and it gave way. Took me an hour and half to get the frame on jack stands. What a PIA.

[mrglaeser]

Small update to my dolly giving way. Found the grease fitting for my rear lower control arm broke. So I'll have to find an extractor to get that out and replace it.

Finished the brakes. Not sure if I mentioned before but I had to make my own brake brackets.


I also put a quick polish and Everbright on the lines.


My oldest drilled and tapped the holes to mount the final line.





I will admit I had a few do-overs and bad starts creating the lines.


And that pretty much completed this phase of the build

[F500guy]

Love the white board! I just use a note book...Which is pretty boring

[mrglaeser]

I also fit two of the trunk panels thinking I would fit all of that and build my drop tank while waiting for the wiring kit to show up.




But then I received this box on Saturday afternoon.


So now I'm reading the guide, painting the fuse panel bracket, pulling out the interior insulation kit, and digging out the gauges and Sniper manuals so I can start a plan.


Also I watch i.e.427's video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiJKIfkhAOQ&t=1439s so we went a head and cut 3 brackets to lower the dash mounting screws and primed them.