Matt in MN's Roadster

[mrglaeser]

Love the white board! I just use a note book...Which is pretty boring

It's my consulting background. Way to many planning/brainstorming sessions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mrglaeser]

Ok well since my dolly had collapsed a couple weeks ago I thought I should rebuild it. This time I made it 10 inches longer, changed the rear support so I could place it closer to the rear, centered the 2x6s on the 4x4 rather than having it offset to the outside, and pre-drilled the holes for the lag bolts. Should I ever build one again it will be by stacking 2 2x6 and 1 2x4 and using longer bolts. The car is much better balanced, is easier to push around, and seems to be all around in better shape. It did take little extra to get the rebuilt dolly back under the car.



Started on the harness next. I painted the fuse panel - panel and installed it. I used some small hinges to hold it on the Cab side and I'm looking for some way to latch the side in the foot box.







I didn't take a photo, but I also installed the brake switch, ground, inertia switch, and ran the Alt/Starter wires through the firewall. Next I plan to run the front and rear harnesses. I'm going to wait a little while on the dash.

I also had purchased some switches I thought looked cool and tested plati-dipping them black. But I don't like the results so I think I will probably end up a couple additional swtiches from FFR.


Notice the holes get filled in. Additionally the plasti-dip makes it impossible to get the retaining ring on an off (switch is too big coated) - so impossible to install.




I plan on having switches for 2 vent fans, Radiator fan override, line lock, and hazards (though I'm not sure how I would do this one - maybe jumper the wires off the turn signal?). Also I'll have a blower motor rotary switch and a rotary switch to set how open the valve is to let heat flow to the heater core. The plan is just to extend the dash in the center to house these switches.

[mrglaeser]

I also moved the fuel lines a little this week - after looking at John Ibele's (John thanks for the loan of some tools) car I realized there was no way the lines wouldn't rub the bellhousing and need a small re-route behind the 3/4 bar.



Additionally I picked up some poster board to mock up a drop trunk. And I fit two more trunk panels.

[mrglaeser]

Well chipping away at different areas of the car at the same time. Must be a ADHD kicking in. I ran the rear harness through the transmission tunnel and the trunk area. It took awhile as I'm planning a drop kit and the normal installation guide says to run everything through the middle, but I won't have that area as the plan for the drop trunk is about 26 inches and get close to the fuel pump area of the tank.





Then I ran the headlight part of the harness, installing the bilge fans so I could run the wire in the loom.


I found these large plugs on amazon and cut holes for the loom.

[mrglaeser]

Between electrical components I also started prepping for the drop tank. I fit the upper trunk aluminum. I had to cut out the FFMetal battery box cover, cut a couple groves for the screws that hold the battery box together, and trim out some metal for the drop trunk.







Next I decided to take out the DS angled 3/4 square tube. I'll cut around the PS side 3/4 square tube for the box, but I wanted most of the area to be easier to get in and out.



Finally I made a bracket to secure the DS footbox inner sidewall to the Round tube/fram. It was driving me crazy that it didn't attach to anything.





Now I'm working on building a power harness. The Holley Sniper wants a direct connection and I'm adding Engine bay light, trunk lights, 2 power ports, 2 USB plug in ports, a powered valve to control the hotness of the heater, 2 bilge fans, and line lock. So quite few items not provisioned for on the Harness that need power. At the same time I will be templating an under dash switch panel, templating the drop tank, and cutting some heat insulation for the dash(before I can't get at it anymore). So lots to do.

[mrglaeser]

Just some small stuff going on.

I wired in the LED Trailer Converter.
Put some lava mat along the firewall and used some trim adhesive to mount the heater valve servo control and LED trailer converter.








Yes I mix Blade and Bullet connectors... Ran out of one kind and didn't want to take 1/2 hour to go get more.

[mrglaeser]

Next I tackled creating a power run. A single four gauge to run to the starter/relay and two ten gauges. One ten gauge for the Sniper EFI directly to the battery and one for the USB power, normal power ports, bilge fans, line lock, and heater valve servo.

[mrglaeser]

Additionally I fed a black ten gauge wire into the main hardness and ran it from the battery to the engine bay for the Sniper EFI


Ran the main Ground from the battery


And installed tabs on the dash hoop to move the mounting screws down an inch or so to make them more easily accessed with the body on.




Finally I installed the rear USB and 12v Power ports

[zee]

The power port / USB port there is a great idea I never thought of. Passengers would rather have the port close to them to charge their phones! I shall copy this .

[mrglaeser]

The power port / USB port there is a great idea I never thought of. Passengers would rather have the port close to them to charge their phones! I shall copy this .

Yeah I think now days you can't have enough power ports!

[Blitzboy54]

FYI, it looks like you are running the LED converter for LED lights. I noticed on your picture of the fuse box you are using non grounded relays that look like for standard lights. If you run LED lights you will need an LED relay like this one.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Like I said I was only looking at a picture, you may have an LED compatible relay already but just a heads up to take a look.

[mrglaeser]

FYI, it looks like you are running the LED converter for LED lights. I noticed on your picture of the fuse box you are using non grounded relays that look like for standard lights. If you run LED lights you will need an LED relay like this one.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Like I said I was only looking at a picture, you may have an LED compatible relay already but just a heads up to take a look.

Thanks for the note Blitzboy54 - I actually do have the LED flashers I just didn't put them in yet. I installed the fuse box as it came in the wire harness kit. I ran most the wiring but haven't done the connections yet as I'm doing a drop truck mod. But since the kits aren't available at the moment I'm fabbing my own. Hoping to get back to wiring in a couple weeks.

[mrglaeser]

Working pretty slowly lately. A lot of 'Life' and 'Work' going on keeping me out of the shop. But still got a few things done.
First I put in an LED light for the trunk and ran power for it. I'll add a switch once the body is on. I also wired the power to the rear power ports.






Now on to the drop Trunk

First I fit the lower trunk floor section and drilled for rivets


Then I pulled the passenger side fuel tank strap using a ratchet strap to keep the tank in place.


Next I cut the panel and one of the cross members out for a drop trunk

[mrglaeser]

Next I modeled the panels with poster board. A little harder than I expected because it sagged so much. Next time I'll stick with cardboard.






yeap that is scrap brake line trying to take the sag out of the new floor.



I bought 3 sheets of aluminum just in case. I haven't done much fab and I'm sure I'll find uses for the aluminum sometime anyway. I was able to layout all the templates on a single sheet.

[mrglaeser]

John Ibele was nice enough to lend me his 36inch sheet metal brake


I picked up a lot of deep clamps from harbor freight after completely botching a bend with cheaper plastic ones (remember I bought 3 sheets of aluminum. Whelp it came in handy when I needed to recut a new piece)

[mrglaeser]

[mrglaeser]

So not sure I would design the drop trunk the same way again. I was trying to maximize space, and because I have a solid axle and 4 link setup I could cut further back. I also cut all the way over to the 3/4 tube on the drivers side. This required a lot of weird shapes and extra bending. Should I do one again I think a simple box will suffice.

Anyway hopefully this weekend I can cut the hole for the access panel. Do all the drilling for rivets and move on to the Breeze cubby modification. Once that is fitted I can start painting and installing it all. Hopefully it won't take all month to get there.

[F500guy]

Very nice work!

[mrglaeser]

Still working on the trunk. A lot of painting. Will have the assembled photos probably next week. Here is a shot of the weird little corner cover I needed to create for the drop trunk - one of the reasons I would make it different next time.





Besides that started to mock up and fit the dash
Knocked out the little tabs to increase the size of the two gauge holes and temporarily put some gauges in to see (They are not in the order I want them in for the final assembly)


I drilled the holes bigger for the horn, ignition, light switch, and heater controls. Plus added a hole for the turn signal left of the gauges and indicator light above the wheel.

[mrglaeser]

I'm using 66 Mustang ignition switch and light switches and wanted to use two similar knobs for the heater controls. So i ground down the shaft on the fan speed switch to test fit a Mustang knob and it worked.









Will do the same for the hot-cold solenoid control next. Finally I played with cardboard and modelled out a switch panel for all the accessories (foot box fans, hazard lights, radiator fan override, and line lock).





I should be able to knock out the aluminum version next week.

[John Ibele]

Great progress, Matt! Drop trunk looks great - structural impacts aside (not sure about the impact of removing the one brace but I’m sure you considered it carefully), you’re going to have some nice additional storage space there. And you provided a good example for all those folks who want the space, and don’t have Russ’s fine product to purchase.

And the switch panel comes to life! I love seeing builders’ design sense become a reality. So cool to watch it take shape.

[mrglaeser]

Great progress, Matt! Drop trunk looks great - structural impacts aside (not sure about the impact of removing the one brace but I’m sure you considered it carefully), you’re going to have some nice additional storage space there. And you provided a good example for all those folks who want the space, and don’t have Russ’s fine product to purchase.

And the switch panel comes to life! I love seeing builders’ design sense become a reality. So cool to watch it take shape.

Thanks John! I've been having a time with your metal break. Now I see places for additional brackets and changes everywhere! I'm really pleased with how it's coming out.

We talked about that support in Build School for a while and the consensus there was that it should be ok. But if comes out of square or causes issues I'll let everyone know.

[mrglaeser]

Now for some fun... well its all fun really. Making the swtich panel. Step one draw out the template onto some metal.



Then cut the shape out little by little


Drill holes


and bend




put the goodies in for a test fit


I plan to cover the panel in the same material as the dash otherwise the rivets would be lined up better.

[mrglaeser]

Here is a more complete dash mock up.

[mrglaeser]

Additionally I put in 500 or so rivets and attached all the trunk paneling.

[Fixit]

Looking good! Great progress!
This may give you some ideas about your trunk illumination

[mrglaeser]

Looking good! Great progress!
This may give you some ideas about your trunk illumination

Thanks Fixit. I didn't even think about illuminating the cubby. (Slap to forehead). I bough two roles of LEDs so I can go crazy if need be. As for wiring I was running a 10ga always hot for other accessories and just tapped that for my trunk (possibly cubbie) light, USB power, and standard power port in the back. The front end of the circuit will get it's own fuse and run engine bay lighting, footbox vent fans, linelock, another USB powerport, and an additional standard power port. I did think of using the radio wiring but incase everything was running at once decided on a larger dedicated power supply. I also ran a 10ga for the Holley Sniper setup, so lots of direct battery power.

[mrglaeser]

So the last two weeks have been mostly making brackets and fitting the dash. Hopefully next week I can the dash rapped the I can start that part of the wiring.
-built some brackets similar to IE427 recommendations to screw the dash into hopefully lowering the screws so if need by I can remove the dash with body on.
-modified the heater register brackets that came in my generic Jegs kit
-created fire wall support brackets so I can mount the brake reservoirs on the firewall as I am running a Mustang pedal box and power brakes
-created custom slimmer brackets than come in the kit to tie the dash in at the bottom as my switch panel was adding some weight and I felt might make the dash do funny things.



Two brakets rivet to the outside of the hoop that supports the dash, then I tapped them for some M5 bolts because I found some bucket washers I liked.


3 Brakets under the hoop


here is the bolt and washer combo.




I also installed rivet nuts so I could attach the switch panel. Here everything is screwed in rather than being held by clamps

[mrglaeser]

Here are the heat registers and brackets under the dash






please ignore the extra hole where the switches are mounted those were to reduce weight not a bad measurement I promise.


and finally the Firewall support




I also mocked up an Oh---Sheesh handle on the passenger side but need to make those brackets now. Good news is the same M5s fit the 4 screw holes for the handle. So I got that going for me which is nice.

[mrglaeser]

No onto the most important part of any build. Cup Holders



nothing surprising in the this work. Marked everything from the underside and cut some holes.



I did decide to take some of the tunnel and mount it fixed and make part of it removable. The fixed part will host a power port, a USB Power port, and the power shutoff.

[mrglaeser]

After watching some more i.e.427 videos I decided I wanted some brackets for the dash OH SH!7 handle. I made them out of steel to give the best reinforcement

[mrglaeser]

Couple of shots of the cockpit mocked up.

[mrglaeser]

For some heat mitigation I purchased some Basalt based heat shielding. Made some templates, cut it out, and stuck it to the footboxes.






I've also heard from some local builders that a lot of sand and junk gets into their trunk. So I used some aluminum tape and covered any place I saw light through.




Additionally I mocked up the air ducting... there isn't much room left now. The longer line (the part sagging in this photo) that goes across will actually be zip tied toward the firewall.

[Fixit]

Looking very nice... lotsa progress!

Thinking about the tape on the trunk seams... It probably won't live too long in the environment of the wheelhouses. Invert your idea. Tape the seams inside the trunk (assuming it will be covered by carpet), and squooge a bead of silicone or seam sealer into the gaps/grooves on the wheelhouse side.
Here's something to think about as well.
I had to slightly massage them (heat gun) after the car was Kleinerized, but it didn't take much.

[mrglaeser]

Looking very nice... lotsa progress!

Thinking about the tape on the trunk seams... It probably won't live too long in the environment of the wheelhouses. Invert your idea. Tape the seams inside the trunk (assuming it will be covered by carpet), and squooge a bead of silicone or seam sealer into the gaps/grooves on the wheelhouse side.
Here's something to think about as well.
I had to slightly massage them (heat gun) after the car was Kleinerized, but it didn't take much.

Thanks Fixit. I am doing some on the inside as well, there are places though it's not sticking that I need to give a good scrub to. I wasn't sure or not if it will last but figured it can't hurt. As for the rubber covers. Yes great idea. John I just did that as well. But I'm far enough away from the body going on that it will be a while. I had also seen these in the past https://vraptorspeedworks.com/mk-4-w...ell-liner-kit/. So once I have the body on I'll stick my head in there and decide how I want to proceed.

[mrglaeser]

Moving On....

After watching another I.E.427 video where he forgot to put in the brackets for the trunk support I figured I better get after now whilst the body is off. I then realized I had not cut holes for the air shocks to pass through in the cubby hole wall. So I cut them out.

Measure 100x cut once


two hole saw cuts to start for each side


yay glad to use this bit again. I thought I would only need it 4 times, now I'm up to 8


here's the driver side all worked out




I also tried to figure out everything I need powder coated. Took apart the indicator lights, tail lights, leman's cap, hood/trunk latches, trunk hinges, and pulled a bunch of other stuff out of boxes. Sent the current list to get an estimate.

[mrglaeser]

I also put in the courtesy lights and a light in the cubby. I used some specially designed crimps for LED light strips. Much easier than soldering like what I did for the trunk.

Here is a close up of the crimp


Just cutaway the rubber on the LED to expose the copper contacts as if you were going to solder.


Slide the clip over the contacts, strip your wires slide them in, and press the two metal strips down into the plastic retainer.








The cubby hole uses the same power supply as the trunk and has it's own switch installed on the bottom of the 3/4 bar. The front I wired to the circuit in the Ron Francis Harness.
I'm not sure what they were thinking with that part of the harness it reaches all the way to the passanger door practically. I pulled the Courtsey light wires and cut them down to clean things up a bit. Not sure but I'll probably cut the other wires down. I'll use the heater power for sure, maybe the wipers power side can be repurposed for the footbox vents, the radio line looks to small for the line lock but I'll have to look up the amp requirements.

[mrglaeser]

ooofda - Spent the last few hours in the shop working on covering the trunk area. I went a little different than most people. I tend to like to do longer drives and rallies so I normally have spare parts and fluid in the trunk. Because I'm a clutz I also tend to spill said fluids. So in stead of carpet I went with vinyl similar to what a mid 60's Chevy might have. I got lucky and a friend of mine gave me some tips and trips on upholstery, but I still made a few mistakes.

-First I only spayed the trunk and not the back of the material, and I used too much adhesive on the first piece. After a few minutes the piece was not really adhering. So I got out some boards and clamps and forced it to stay in place for 24 hours. This fixed the mistake.
-Then I had a learning curve on spraying the 3M adhesive and made quite a mess.
- I have a couple gaps I'd rather not have, but once the body is on they'll disappear
- I realized the complicated drop trunk shape caused an extra seem I could have avoided with a simple box
- I need to get a little better with a utility knife.

That said I'm actually very pleased with how it came out. I still need to do the cubby and cover the fuel pump access panel.

[mrglaeser]

I also put sound deadening on the rear wall. Next week I'll put the pre-cut breeze pieces in the passenger side.


I'm also really excited as my short block should ship on Monday. I've only been waiting 19 months.

[Railroad]

Check your cubby hole opening trim. It might not fit over the sound deadening and carpet too. It's easier to trim back the area now.
Nice work.