Steering wheel spacers

[LateApex]

Does anyone have a lead on steering wheel spacers for FFR steering wheels (English style six-bolt 62mm PCD?) I'd like to keep the dash visor, but there is insufficient knuckle clearance with the ~ 1" dish steering wheels available from FFR.

Thx in advance!

[michael everson]

Why can’t you just pull the shaft on a little further?

[LateApex]

Why can’t you just pull the shaft on a little further?

It really needs to come out at least an inch. There is not that kind of slack in the linkage.

I have also integrated the RT turn signal stalk. That is somewhat fixed on location to the upper bearing bracket. So stretching the shaft results in a gap, which is not a great look. Ideally, a spacer would match the finish of the stock two-piece hub / boss / center section.

[Ted G]

A removable device will move it about an inch.

[Ltngdrvr]

Yeah, a short quick release hub will give you the spacing.

[edwardb]

x2 on the steering wheel quick release. Really helps getting in and out, although for me mostly just the getting out part. Many of us have used the NRG SRK-400. Probably you've seen several threads. It adds 15/16". I actually cut down my RT turn signal assembly so it only added 7/16". So there are options. But one piece of advice. I'd sure wait until you're far enough along to mock up your seats, sitting position, etc. before locking too much of an extension, no matter what you do. Also, I didn't install the dash visor on mine. For multiple reasons. Have driven our Coupe now 4,000+ miles and there are zero issues with not having the visor. No glare on the gauges or whatever. It's basically just an appearance item and sort of like the originals. FWIW.

[LateApex]

Thanks guys! You've given me a couple of options to play with :-)

[michael everson]

maybe Russ could make you one that matches
Mike

[LateApex]

maybe Russ could make you one that matches
Mike

That's a no-go.

I've decided to go down the NRG path. It's width is exactly what I am looking for, with the removable steering wheel benefit :-)

[LateApex]

Just wrapping up the NRG installation. Pretty straight-forward, although took a bit more time than I had imagined.

There are three pieces from NRG involved. Let's call them the Hub interface, the Collar and the Steering Wheel Interface. Modifications are made to the Steering hub, the Hub Interface, the Steering Wheel Interface and the Steering Wheel. They are as follows:

Steering Hub:[LIST]
The existing holes for mounting an FFR steering wheel need to be countersunk to accept the flat head Phillips head screws that normally secure the steering wheel to the Steering Hub and Middle Section (where the threads are located). These are now re-purposed to secure the Hub to the Middle Section. One should assure that the flat head screws are not proud of the hub surface, so that the Hub / Hub Interface has a flat interface.

I took about three threads (~ 3/16") off the FFR supplied flat head screws to assure no interference with the RT turn signal assembly after one uses those same screws to secure the Steering Hub to the Middle Section. A little Loktite was applied. This mating will never need to come apart.

The hub needs to be drilled and tapped for an M5 x 25mm socket head cap screw that will secure the Hub Interface to the Hub. This is straight-forward, alignment issues or jigs notwithstanding. For alignment, I used the proven method of wrapping suitable large-*** sockets (pls pardon the jargon), with masking tape or other thicker adhesive materials found in my shop, like Teflon strip, and the old eyeball alignment technique.[/LIST)

Hub Interface:

• The back of the interface (back is in the direction of the front wheels) needs to be cut off. This is an easy process that involves a bench vise, a hack saw and a bench file.
  The two small screws that hold the Hub Interface to the Collar need to be ground a bit with a Dremel Tool, else they are proud of that nice flat surface you just created. and the Hub Interface will rock on the hub
  Be careful taking the Hub Interface out of the Collar (after one removes those same two small screws). The brass pin that is part of the Collar locking scheme has a small (but very sproingy) spring that can instantly achieve escape velocity. Note that reassembly of Hub Interface to Collar benefits from a thin machinist's ruler of feeler gauge. That spring is a slippery sucker :-)

Steering Wheel Interface:

• The back of the Steering Wheel Interface also needs to be "reduced". It is about 1/8" proud, and will interfere with the Hub unless it is trimmed down. Again, this is an easy application of bench vise, hack saw and flat file.

Steering Wheel:

• This needs to be drilled and countersunk to mate with the bolt pattern of the Steering Wheel Interface. I used M5 x 20mm flat head Philips head screws. The options for alignment have been discussed in various build forums, and must of course be reflected in how the back side of this gizmo has been mated with your steering hub

And Then The Surprise :-)

• You will find that the FFR Steering Hub Cap, yes the one with the thin rubber O-Ring, does not fit correctly with your new Steering Wheel Interface. It pushes past the steering Wheel opening and then rattles around as the i.d.: of the Steering Wheel Interface is larger that the o.d. of that same O-Ring. This is easily solved with some 1/16" Teflon Adhesive Strip, normally found in 1/2" widths, trimmed down to 3/8" wide, and applied to the inside of the Steering Wheel Interface.

I'd be glad to add some photos if that would be helpful.

Yet another one of these build steps that seemed simple and became a day-long effort. But nice to solve the puzzle and wrap up this part of the build :-)