SBC Build

[eaglecook]

Hey guys,

Sorry for the Noob question, but I am trying to get a few decisions made and am confused about a couple of things. I'm putting in an 383 Stroker and from what I've read, I'll need to use a special oil pan so it doesn't hang too low. In one thread, I saw a link for an oil pan from Summit and when I checked it out, it said specifically that it would not work with a 383 stroker. Thoughts? Anyone that has one of these motors in their '33 got any input? Also, I'll be running A/C and have read that I'll probably need to mount the compressor in a different location. Any help is appreciated..

Doug

[Papa_Jack]

Doug. I have a Gen 1 with a BluePrint SBC 383 stroker and there are no issues with the standard SBC oil pan hanging too low. I'm running a March front drive with serpintine and it tucks in the AC and alternator very nicely though you do have to move the motor back about 3/4 inch so to clear the rack and pinion steering. Others may be running other front drive and or V-belts and can address if alternate mounting configurations are necessary.

[Indigo808]

Doug,
I am also running a SBC 383 – DART block. No oil pan issues. I believe you will find that you need to move the engine back at least ½ inch to clear the steering rack. Be careful with the distributor and header choices. I believe you can find some good references for those that work in the forum. I also have a March serpentine with AC and alternator without a problem. I found I could not run a belt tensioner. It would hit the frame. So I recommend looking for the model without one.

[eaglecook]

Awesome, thanks guys. I really appreciate you help.

[wrp]

Sorry for the delayed response. I had a single piece 350 assembly stroked to 383. There was a discussion about the pan fitment due to the longer stroke. The issue was the clearance of the rods to the oil pan, especially near the oil pan gasket area where the stroke comes closest. In my understanding they have to machine the block a bit in some circumstances. Those with Blueprint or any of the other top of the line engines, that is probably already done in the build process. I am guessing the warning messages are for guys like me that would go out and buy an oil pan and bolt it up without checking the clearance. Are you doing the build yourself or do you have a shop assembling the long block? I’d definitely check with an engine builder.

Engine-2.jpgengine-4.jpg

[eaglecook]

Thanks WRP. I was going to do the build, but circumstances changed and I no longer have the room so I'm going with West Coast Engines. A little less expensive than Blueprint and a little better warranty.

[peterh226]

First question is do you have a Gen 1 or 2. Please add some basic information to you signature and we can all provide more help. For the original Gen 1, the shorty headers varied and the fitment on the passenger side was inconsistent. Also the setback with the engine mounts depended on the pulleys. For the Gen 2 they now use Ram horns and different mounts and everything fits ok. However, the original instructions for these new mounts were wrong side to side and the engine would be mounted to high. I’ve got quite a bit on my build blog here. Spent way too much time on the exhaust.

[wrp]

I m interested in whether you have a Gun I or Gen II. On the Get I it isn’t a simple bolt in fit