How do I solve this without having to throw this whole kit out? I wish I would have ran across an issue like this in the forum before. Hopefully someone has solution or at least someone may see this and know it has issue. IMG_1926.jpg
If I have to purchase another one what have others used that works?
Last edited by Jeff33Ford; 07-17-2022 at 02:17 PM.
Don't know why I did not think of inverting the alt. If I shorten the ground nut on the back if the Alt. and make a new tensioner center section, I think I can make this work. Just have to figure out how long of a belt and buy a new one. Hopefully this will not interfere with the body in any way. I will be using the side panels. If I get it to work, I will post final pics. IMG_1929.jpg
Hey Jeff, when I was building my 302 I had the alternator low-mounted like you did and sharp eyes told me to flip it just as you figured out. If you need anything in the way of different spacers to make it work a call to CVF will fix that. Their support is great and the main reason why they have me as a customer for life now.
You should be able to flip the lower bracket so it curves up instead of down.
Also make sure you have a late-model style thermostat housing that exits 90-degrees up, not the early-type 15-degree.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I suggest that you be cautious inverting the alternator. The built-in fan is highly directional - if you spin it backwards it will not pull as much cooling air through the coils, leading to overheating and early failure. FFR recommended mounting the alternator inverted for Coyote installations in the Hot Rod, but they also recommended an alternator designed to spin the opposite direction from stock. Maybe you can change the drive belt to spin the alternator the correct direction?
I was able to get away with using the existing tensioning strut rod, but I also got a new (likely shorter) belt.
I routed the heater hoses behind and on the side of the alternator so mine sticks out a bit further thus the longer tensioning strut rod. I also needed a longer belt.
Jeff, I just realized that you are running the same pully set-up as me.
In my case all I had to do was get some different spacers to get everything to line up and as previously mentioned, a shorter belt.
For hose routing I was able to take the one barb fitting out of the water pump and insert a brass 45 degree street elbow in between. This left lots of room underneath the alternator for the one hose. The other hose comes out of the water pump and makes a sharp right angle turn into the thermostat housing.