"Voodoo Magic" SEMA Build - Day 42 - Done - Let's go to SEMA

[Erik W. Treves]

Mark

1. Could the headers have been installed on the engine out of the chassis and then lowered in? (this will help me on my build plan)

I would just plan on installing the headers as you put the engine in - like normal full length header installs the headers are just laying in the engine compartment as you place the engine in

2. What size wheels (including offset) and tires used?

255/45/18's Toyo's - not sure on the wheel spacing but FFR is pretty consistent with the 6.5 BS since it's all mustang stuff - running 1.5 spacer in the back

3. What size are the Stage 8 bolts (thread size and length)? Also, what style lock flange on the Stage 8, e.g., the tear drop lock flange or the crescent shape ones?

Tear drop spacers - I just went on Summit and looked up coyote header bolts


I'll reverse my motor mount bolts for header clearance..... Will you suggest to FF to add that to there install manual? Is there enough room for header glass wrap?

Yes there is room to put header wrap - as far as reversing the mounts.... anything is possible I suppose - the motor mounts only bolt to the block one way on the coyote - the brackets can be reversed - but then you would need a new driveshaft and I am not sure how you would do the lower radiator hose - the crank pulley will be VERY close to the steering rack, you will need another transmission mount as well for the chassis. The exhaust bends will be in the wrong places - so those would need to be redone as well. So basically it would seem to me on the back of the napkin planning that this wouldn't be as simple as flipping motor mounts - it's a full custom install.... I am not afraid of it myself - but one would need to go into this plan eyes wide open... in the end the current FFR headers fit - but it's your build plan and FFR gives you 2 doors to walk through - book build or custom build.... I rarely walk through the book build door myself....

[mkassab]

Mark

1. Could the headers have been installed on the engine out of the chassis and then lowered in? (this will help me on my build plan)

I would just plan on installing the headers as you put the engine in - like normal full length header installs the headers are just laying in the engine compartment as you place the engine in

2. What size wheels (including offset) and tires used?

255/45/18's Toyo's - not sure on the wheel spacing but FFR is pretty consistent with the 6.5 BS since it's all mustang stuff - running 1.5 spacer in the back

3. What size are the Stage 8 bolts (thread size and length)? Also, what style lock flange on the Stage 8, e.g., the tear drop lock flange or the crescent shape ones?

Tear drop spacers - I just went on Summit and looked up coyote header bolts


I'll reverse my motor mount bolts for header clearance..... Will you suggest to FF to add that to there install manual? Is there enough room for header glass wrap?

Yes there is room to put header wrap - as far as reversing the mounts.... anything is possible I suppose - the motor mounts only bolt to the block one way on the coyote - the brackets can be reversed - but then you would need a new driveshaft and I am not sure how you would do the lower radiator hose - the crank pulley will be VERY close to the steering rack, you will need another transmission mount as well for the chassis. The exhaust bends will be in the wrong places - so those would need to be redone as well. So basically it would seem to me on the back of the napkin planning that this wouldn't be as simple as flipping motor mounts - it's a full custom install.... I am not afraid of it myself - but one would need to go into this plan eyes wide open... in the end the current FFR headers fit - but it's your build plan and FFR gives you 2 doors to walk through - book build or custom build.... I rarely walk through the book build door myself....

On the last item.... I wan ONLY referring to reversing the bolts as I noted, i.e., the bolts enter the mount from the rear side with the nuts on the front side to give more room between bolt head and header.

Thanks Mark

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks for the clarification......I would not do that since removing the bolt would require the header to come off - and I put the headers on before the mounts - so it isn't possible - there is room - it's just close - as long as it doesn't touch it's good - you could change the nut type and go to a metal lock nut versus as nylon lock nut - they tend to be shorter and narrower...

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 29 alignment completed

[GoDadGo]

You'll Make It!
You Always Do!
You've Got This!

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 30 - We have lights - 1 month went by pretty quick!

[DonImbimbo]

Hi Erik,

Really enjoying the video series.

Day 25 question

In between the topside and underside aluminum sheets, FF still has the insulation sheets? Reason for me asking is on my 35 order they wrote a note saying "no longer available".

Thanks again for the video documentation.

Don

[Erik W. Treves]

I am tracking your question from the thread you started on that topic... there was another insulation with the old floor - I am also going to guess that that is what is discontinued since mine came with the sandwich construction floor as did Paul's truck which is the non-stretched version.

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 31 - We have Seats and foot room!

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 33 - closing in on it - interior carpet going in and some other stuff...

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 34 - Test drive complete - waiting on body!

[Salty Chief 35]

That motor has a very unique sound. Very cool!!!
Respectfully
Jeremie

[Erik W. Treves]

That motor has a very unique sound. Very cool!!!
Respectfully
Jeremie

I think it really needs an X-pipe - and I think the chambered mufflers need to be swapped out... but I think it sounds good in real life- -I imagine at 8000 RPM it will sound amazing.

[GoDadGo]

That motor has a very unique sound. Very cool!!!
Respectfully
Jeremie

....Ditto On The Unique Sound!

Not sure if I like, but it is cool none the less.

[mkassab]

I think it really needs an X-pipe - and I think the chambered mufflers need to be swapped out... but I think it sounds good in real life- -I imagine at 8000 RPM it will sound amazing.

On my '35 build, I'll install the H pipe. I like the sound better and it's suppose to help increase torque at lower RPMs.... at least that's what I've read and experienced in past builds (although they weren't Coyote engines)

Mark

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think it really needs an X-pipe - and I think the chambered mufflers need to be swapped out... but I think it sounds good in real life- -I imagine at 8000 RPM it will sound amazing.

Regarding the X pipe…I remember talking to Jim Schenck about the flat plane engines in a roadster or Coupe and his comment was “If you exhaust the right bank and left bank separately through individual sidepipes without a crossover pipe it’ll sound like 2 fart can Honda’s going down the road”

Jeff

[Erik W. Treves]

I can confirm presence of a fart can.

[Erik W. Treves]

Chassis wrap up discussion - and the plan for paint!

I don't think I covered my "big feet" mod to the pedals - so here is a picture of the cut down pads.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks for the update Erik! Plan sounds good You’re preaching to the choir here regarding paint prices…it’s gotten pretty nuts…everything from the bottom (cleaners and filler) all the way through to the top even including buffing compounds.

Good luck with the final push!

[Erik W. Treves]

Yeah the paint cost was nuts! I think it was $3800+ for just the color! That's a 300% increase that I am tracking- I just paid $27 for a bottle of Loctite!

[wallace18]

Paint is crazy right now. Most people have no clue to the cost of a proper paint job.

[Erik W. Treves]

Getting close to color.... hope to move the truck to the body shop on Friday!!

[RuffShod]

I like the scorched tan look. Clear coat it and call it good!!!

[mkassab]

Hi Erik, what starter is on your coyote?..... is it the standard Ford starter,? can you provide me a brand and part number?

Thx Mark

[Erik W. Treves]

ford coyote starter nothing special about it

[Erik W. Treves]

So - we need to finish up the truck next week and I am waiting on paint - so figured we need some more stress - let's rip out the exhaust and build a custom one....

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks and sounds good E! Much better Can the parking brake cables be routed above the mufflers and still have a proper approach to the calipers?

Jeff

[mkassab]

Hi Erik.... sounds better for sure. I'm thinking of going with an "H" pipe crossover vs "X".

Three questions:
1. Did you consider the "H" pipe crossover?
2. Why did you choose the "X" pipe crossover?
3. Is the FF exhaust 2.5" diameter?

Thanks Mark

[Erik W. Treves]

Jeff - I am not sure the cable will go over the exhaust with enough clearance for the rebound - I need to add some supports to the rear of the muffler to keep it from dropping. If I angle the muffler up a bit I end up with tons of room... so I will just add a couple metal straps today while I am letting the water drain out of it for the thermostat housing change. I am happy about the way it sounds and was in a rush to hear it yesterday...

Mark - the GT350 sound in the OEM car is an X-pipe... and we all love how that sounds... that's what drove the decision

[FF33rod]

Sounds much better Erik, can't wait to see the painted cab!

Couple of quick questions if you can:
- any vendor part number info on the x pipe upgrade to the exhaust
- looks like you upgraded the wire gauge on the battery cable to the front (much heavier gauge that I got in the '33 kit at least), what did you go with?
- also looks like you added a negative/ground wire instead of using chassis, correct? gauge?

Thx!!
Steve

[Erik W. Treves]

Steve

The X-pipe is a universal Stainless X-pipe from summit.

The whole battery cable deal is me and "history" with troubleshooting issues I had in years past and repeated approach to use the smallest battery I can... With the fuel injected cars and typically the ECU it is still amazing to me that the ground can play such a huge part of how well the car runs... to that end I really over engineer it I think ... but I am running "easy bend" 0/1 battery cables - you can find them anywhere - amazon for example has some excellent kits.... I do run a dedicated power and ground to the starter and the starter bolt - this grounds the engine, ECU, Battery and Starter all to the same source..... I then run RF harness from the starter and then ground that to the frame. I also run a small ground from the engine to the chassis to service anything that needs a ground that isn't the ECU or starter.... For the starter circuit I do not use the chassis any more... it works... but have decided to do it this way for several builds now.

[mkassab]

Steve

The X-pipe is a universal Stainless X-pipe from summit.

The whole battery cable deal is me and "history" with troubleshooting issues I had in years past and repeated approach to use the smallest battery I can... With the fuel injected cars and typically the ECU it is still amazing to me that the ground can play such a huge part of how well the car runs... to that end I really over engineer it I think ... but I am running "easy bend" 0/1 battery cables - you can find them anywhere - amazon for example has some excellent kits.... I do run a dedicated power and ground to the starter and the starter bolt - this grounds the engine, ECU, Battery and Starter all to the same source..... I then run RF harness from the starter and then ground that to the frame. I also run a small ground from the engine to the chassis to service anything that needs a ground that isn't the ECU or starter.... For the starter circuit I do not use the chassis any more... it works... but have decided to do it this way for several builds now.

First, I agree with Erik totally.... I even go to another level, e.g, ground each head to the block and block to chassis. This ensures good ground for the spark plugs/ignition. I also run a ground from the alternator housing to one of the heads. Lastly, any place you can run some heavier gauge wire, e.g., Alternator to battery is always good (especially for the long runs for the trucks (i.e., alt up front and battery in back. In this cast, you can run the alt to the starter /battery lug).

Mark

[mkassab]

....repeated approach to use the smallest battery I can...

Erik.... you comment of using the smallest batter you can:
1. are you referring to physical size, weight, Amp Hrs, cold cranking Amps, or what?
2. Why?

Thx Mark

[Erik W. Treves]

- highest AMPS - lowest weight, smallest footprint

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 38 - no time for videos today - prepositioned the truck over to the painter yesterday - started a noon today - this is right out of the gun - still have to cut and buff.... cab is fully installed and connected to the firewall - nose is completely in...

[wallace18]

Looking good! I do like red, LOL.

[GoDadGo]

Lets Go All The Way!
To SEMA That Is!
Looking Really Good Mr. Treves!

[jayguy]

Looks Amazing! Can't wait to see it with the bed on too.

[Erik W. Treves]

Day 39 - I am beat - got a lot done today - door windows tomorrow and some other odds and ends while we wait for the bed..... tick tock...

[Erik W. Treves]

here is the walk around and discussion Day 39