Nick's LS427 Type 65 Build in Europe

[nick729]

After many delays, seems like my kit will finally reach me in about 2 months’ time. Reserving the spot for my build diary.

I have previously built 2 Lotus7 based kit cars but got rid of them after driving them both for less than 1,500 miles, very fast and fun cars, but something just did not sit right with me. Hopefully, this will not be the case with this kit ��
I do not intend to properly track the car (maybe an occasional track day or 2), nor do I want the car to be very civilized - this is just an obnoxious summer weekend car.

My expectations for this build is to have everything I need to complete the car and I intend to have it completed for the summer. If anyone notices something which is not in the list below, but is needed to complete the build - please let me know (getting parts to this part of the world is not easy and I don't have patience)!

Specs:
60744 - Powder coated chassis - Black
60510 - Coupe GPS Metric Gauges (kmh)
16787 - LS Mounts
16813 - Headers: LS-series stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
16038 - 31 Spline 2015 IRS 8.375" Driveshaft
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, and side openings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
16799 - Power steering kit
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
60737 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
60377 - A/C – Heater- Defroster for 302/351W
60364- Coupe Interior Black Carpet Package, pre-cut
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
60371 - Coupe Side Windows
60831 - Gen 3 Coupe Floormat
60835 - Coupe Sound Insulation Kit
12453 - Battery Cutoff Switch
16116 - Front Swaybar
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
15812 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
15996 - Upgrade: Double Adjustable KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks (set of 4)
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
60850 - 12.88” 201215 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
33015 - Hotrod/Truck LED Headlights
80856 - Race Side View Mirrors
BLUEPRINT ENGINES BUILDER SERIES 427CI PROSERIES STROKER CRATE ENGINE AND T56 MANUAL TRANSMISSION | GM LS3 STYLE | DRESSED LONGBLOCK WITH FUEL INJECTION | ALUMINUM HEADS | ROLLER CAM | DELUXE DRESSED LONGBLOCK W/ PULLEYS POLISHED - BLACK 625 HP / 565 FT LBS

Other parts:
Russ Thompson Turn-signal system
Holley 12-132 455lph in-tank fuel pump
Nuke Performance/Fuelab Fuel pressure regulator
Nuke Performance/Fuelab in-line Fuel filter
RedHorse PTFE AN6 SS lines and fittings (no hard lines)
Oil Catch can (TBD)
Back-up camera (Autovox v5 Pro, Wolfbox G900 or similar)
Wheel spacers (TBD)
Tyres - 275/35 and 315/30, (r888r, Pilot Sport Cup 2 or similar depending on availability)

Plans for the build:
Leather interior
Custom switches and A/C controls
Additional sound insulation
Powder coated panels
Depending on choice of body colour (considering Candy Apple Red, Verde Mantis Green, Arancio Bruciato Orange), might need to paint wheels and exhausts.

Any suggestions and tips are very welcome!

[jgray]

After many delays, seems like my kit will finally reach me in about 2 months’ time. Reserving the spot for my build diary.

I have previously built 2 Lotus7 based kit cars but got rid of them after driving them both for less than 1,500 miles, very fast and fun cars, but something just did not sit right with me. Hopefully, this will not be the case with this kit ��
I do not intend to properly track the car (maybe an occasional track day or 2), nor do I want the car to be very civilized - this is just an obnoxious summer weekend car.

My expectations for this build is to have everything I need to complete the car and I intend to have it completed for the summer. If anyone notices something which is not in the list below, but is needed to complete the build - please let me know (getting parts to this part of the world is not easy and I don't have patience)!

Specs:
60744 - Powder coated chassis - Black
60510 - Coupe GPS Metric Gauges (kmh)
16787 - LS Mounts
16813 - Headers: LS-series stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
16038 - 31 Spline 2015 IRS 8.375" Driveshaft
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, and side openings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
16799 - Power steering kit
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
60737 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
60377 - A/C – Heater- Defroster for 302/351W
60364- Coupe Interior Black Carpet Package, pre-cut
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
60371 - Coupe Side Windows
60831 - Gen 3 Coupe Floormat
60835 - Coupe Sound Insulation Kit
12453 - Battery Cutoff Switch
16116 - Front Swaybar
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
15812 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
15996 - Upgrade: Double Adjustable KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks (set of 4)
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
60850 - 12.88” 201215 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
33015 - Hotrod/Truck LED Headlights
80856 - Race Side View Mirrors
BLUEPRINT ENGINES BUILDER SERIES 427CI PROSERIES STROKER CRATE ENGINE AND T56 MANUAL TRANSMISSION | GM LS3 STYLE | DRESSED LONGBLOCK WITH FUEL INJECTION | ALUMINUM HEADS | ROLLER CAM | DELUXE DRESSED LONGBLOCK W/ PULLEYS POLISHED - BLACK 625 HP / 565 FT LBS

Other parts:
Russ Thompson Turn-signal system
Holley 12-132 455lph in-tank fuel pump
Nuke Performance/Fuelab Fuel pressure regulator
Nuke Performance/Fuelab in-line Fuel filter
RedHorse PTFE AN6 SS lines and fittings (no hard lines)
Oil Catch can (TBD)
Back-up camera (Autovox v5 Pro, Wolfbox G900 or similar)
Wheel spacers (TBD)
Tyres - 275/35 and 315/30, (r888r, Pilot Sport Cup 2 or similar depending on availability)

Plans for the build:
Leather interior
Custom switches and A/C controls
Additional sound insulation
Powder coated panels
Depending on choice of body colour (considering Candy Apple Red, Verde Mantis Green, Arancio Bruciato Orange), might need to paint wheels and exhausts.

Any suggestions and tips are very welcome!

Hi,
I grew up in England and very much wanted a Lotus/Caterham 7. For several years I was looking at the Dutton Phaeton which was a popular kit in the 1980s. But then I came to California and three decades plus passed and I have finally pulled the trigger on a Daytona. Mine will arrive in February/March so I will following your build with interest! I plan to use a hot 302 - it looks like a quad twin weber carb could be the setup I go with. I rode in one a couple of weeks ago that had a 302 and it was lots of power. Yours will be a beast!

[nick729]

Boy was i wrong on the ETA on my coupe... After many set backs, and exceptionally frustrating customer service experience in dealing with FFR my coupe is nearing the European shores. I expect to take delivery of my coupe sometime in late January, depending on how long the customs procedures will take (it's a lottery). Anyways, not worth going into details on what went wrong i am just happy it is finally over.

Went ahead and bought some of the missing bits for my kit:

Fuel Pressure regulator - Fuelab 535 + pressure gauge
Fuel filter - Fuelab 10Micron 127mm
Autovox v5 pro back-up camera
Tyres - i was looking for semi-slicks and the only ones i managed to find in the required size (275/35 and 315/30) were Nankang Sportnex AR-1. Cup2's or R888r at least in EU do not have both sizes available and i did not want to have different tyres front and back.

Things i still need to source:
Oil catch can - i want to see the engine first, to decide which one to pick and what fittings will be needed on the engine side
Fuel Lines and fittings - AN6 PTFE lines and fittings, but need to see the car in person, to decide where and how everything will mount and what angle fitting i will need.
Wheel spacers
Fuel pump relay kit - since the FFR supplied relay/fuse for the fuel pump is only setup for 15amps, i will have to buy a relay kit for the pump since is requires 30amps. I am thinking that Holley 12-753 relay kit makes the most sense in this case.

[GoDadGo]

A Monster It Will Be!

.........Soon Another Dark Side Factory-5 Will Be Born!

[nick729]

Just received an unexpected Christmas present

20221222_180319.jpg20221222_191717.jpg20221222_192044.jpg20221222_202630.jpg20221222_215727.jpg

Props to FFR for packaging, the crate itself is held together by long nails, which makes it difficult to disassemble (the fact that the OSB was wet and soft didn't help). My last kit car, came with a similar crate but it was from plywood, and wood screws were used instead of nails, which is a lot more convenient and very fast and easy to take apart. I guess there is always room for improvement Also, the crate is very long and heavy, but the only way to lift the crate with a forklift is from the ends of the crate, meaning that you need a forklift with extra long forks. Open slots from the side of the crate for the forks would really help.

Anyways, since it was impossible to offload the crates into the garage, getting everything inside was a mission and a half. Took about 2 hours to remove all the boxes and carry the frame into the garage, but the 2 of us managed it. Getting the body off the car was quite difficult though, i would recommend having at least 3 people for that, the sides were a tight squeeze, so not looking forward to putting it back on.

Missing parts:

• Double adjustable Koni shocks
• Rear Hatch Glass
• LS headers with fasteners
• Some other less important parts

Overall, very pleased to finally have the kit in my garage, looking forward to start working on it in a few weeks time.

[lewma]

Congrats Nick!

[nick729]

Almost done with inventory check, only a few boxes left!

Decided to start the assembly process, however i ran into a problem straight away. I have the optional power steering rack from FFR, this is what i received:
20221225_112833.jpg

Seems like 2 sleeves are missing, as in the manual there are 2 metal sleeves visible in the photos which are used inside the 4 supplied bushings. Also, there is a bushing with a sleeve already in the rack itself, but the sleeve is very large compared to the bolts supplied. There is no mention of any sleeves in the Steering Rack Assembly packing list either.. Any thoughts?

[Namrups]

I would suggest completing your inventory before attempting to start your installation.

I looked back on my inventory sheets and found a listing for two 2.45" spacers (part # 15514) under a heading of "Steering System Hardware". (In my case box 1) The power steering rack was listed under a heading of "Power Steering Components". (In my case box 23)

Find part number 15514 and see if they are what you need. Hope this helps.

[nick729]

I would suggest completing your inventory before attempting to start your installation.

I looked back on my inventory sheets and found a listing for two 2.45" spacers (part # 15514) under a heading of "Steering System Hardware". (In my case box 1) The power steering rack was listed under a heading of "Power Steering Components". (In my case box 23)

Find part number 15514 and see if they are what you need. Hope this helps.

You are a lifesaver! I'm not sure how i managed to miss that, since I went over the packing list a few times.. Thank you!

Steering rack is now in place.
Lower and upper control arms are also in place. Some of the issues i ran into:

• Lower control arm - had to install the rear bolt first, since it was impossible to align the bolts as per manual instructions. I am missing the nuts, so i can't tighten them.. Also, there are 4 large washers provided, 2 of which are used as a spacer for the rear bush. Where do the other 2 go? On the rear nut?
• Upper control arm ball joint - one of the ball joints is damaged, the grease nipple hole has a large dent, damaging threads and thus making it impossible to screw the grease fitting into the ball joint. Will try to rethread the hole, if that fails i'll get a replacement ball joint.
• Upper control arm bolts - anyone know what type of bolt are meant to be used for the upper control arm (attaching to the mounting flange)? There are no bolts in the Upper control arm box, and the manual does not say..?

I am just loosely fitting everything to see how it all comes together until the shocks and other missing bits arrive

20221225_193445.jpg20221225_181454.jpg20221225_191451.jpg

[Alan_C]

Congrats, just caught your build thread. Nice shop, plenty of room. Looking forward to seeing the build progress.

[Namrups]

Upper control arm bolts: 1/2"-20 x 1 3/4" flange head bolts - 4 required - part # 15138

I am building a FF coupe. I received my coupe before the inventory system change at FF. I am in the process of listing my inventory list (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ory-parts-list) so that those with the new inventory system can possibly cross reference it.

I used aftermarket ball joints and have the two FF ones still on my shelf. Not sure how to get them to you in Europe though.

[nick729]

Upper control arm bolts: 1/2"-20 x 1 3/4" flange head bolts - 4 required - part # 15138

I am building a FF coupe. I received my coupe before the inventory system change at FF. I am in the process of listing my inventory list (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ory-parts-list) so that those with the new inventory system can possibly cross reference it.

I used aftermarket ball joints and have the two FF ones still on my shelf. Not sure how to get them to you in Europe though.

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

[Namrups]

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

I am copying my list just the way I received it. I am not listing which list goes to what box as I'm sure that is different in every case. You are going to want to get a full set of SAE sockets and open end wrenches from 3/8" thru 1 1/4". You will also need a hub nut socket. Not sure what size that was because I borrowed it from my neighbor. Two of each of the wrenches is my recommendation. A crescent wrench or two are also helpful.

[burchfieldb]

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

I am also missing hardware from the hardware kit that is not in the inventory list. This is the list from FFR of what should be in your hardware pack. This is not the rear IRS kit, that is a seperate kit, that I also do not have.

Screenshot_20221225-221135_Yahoo Mail.jpg
20221225_221225.jpg

[burchfieldb]

This is what you should have in the IRS fastener kit for the rear.

20221225_221951.jpg

[Namrups]

What a nightmare. That new list doesn't show any 1/2"-20 bolts. I guess they could have changed to 1/2"-23 but the 1 3/4" length isn't even shown. Scratching my head.

[burchfieldb]

What a nightmare. That new list doesn't show any 1/2"-20 bolts. I guess they could have changed to 1/2"-23 but the 1 3/4" length isn't even shown. Scratching my head.

After looking at your list, the new list doesn't show the fasteners and also doesn't show what sub assembly they go to. Which is really confusing, since the manual doesn't always call out the fasteners, and only shows a picture. The list I provided above does have part numbers, but the hardware kit I got does not have any corresponding part numbers on the bags. My kit was missing all 1/2 inch fasteners, but it was supposed to have them. I recieved my coupe at the end of September, so after the new system was put in place. Hopefully things improve, as I am missing a fair amount of parts. I check in with them regularly and also have them send me updates of what they have on my missing parts list, which did not match mine. I can only imagine the nightmare they are having to deal with, having worked in manufacturing myself for a number of years. I know they are trying to work through it, as I regularly get reply emails after 7pm at night, which is the same time for them.

[burchfieldb]

Do you guys know what box your Le Mans gas gap was in? I didn't recall seeing it and didn't see it listed on the inventory sheets?

[Namrups]

Mine was in box 2B.

[nick729]

Finally completed my inventory check - what a nightmare! 18 parts missing, some of which are needed early on in the build; shocks, diff bushings, control arm bolts etc. I have a feeling there will be some issues with bolts/nuts, as it seems that some of them are not even on the inventory list, so i won't know what i am missing until i get to it, like in the case of the upper control arm bolts/nuts.

Anyways, had my first mess up... Was getting started on assembling Wilwood brakes and somehow managed to get mixed up on the torque values and tried to torque the small rotor bolt to 81nm (60ft-lb) instead of 17 in-lb. You can guess the outcome. ~100$ mistake
20221227_214649.jpg

Luckily, since you can access the bolt through the back, i just used a small drill bit from the back which bit onto the leftover bolt and it unscrewed itself..

Did some shopping; got SAE socket set, 12 point sockets for the rotor bolts, and a set of SAE open end wrenches, but failed to find any inch drill bits. After searching everywhere, just decided to buy the closest metric matches:

• 3/32 (2.38mm) - 2.5mm
• 1/8 (3.175mm) - 3.2mm
• 9/64 (3.571mm) - 3.8mm
• 3/16 (4.7625mm) - 4.8mm
• 7/32 (5.56mm) - 5.5mm
• 1/4 (6.35mm) - 6.5mm
• 5/16 (7.93mm) - 8mm
• 7/16 (11.11mm) - 11mm
• 1/2 (12.7mm) - 13mm
• 5/8 (15.875mm) - 16mm

Surely the slightly larger drill bits will be just fine?

Planning on doing the IRS tomorrow as far as i can get with the parts i have

@burchfieldb - mine was in BOX4 along with Secondary body fasteners, Battery/Tray components, Misc Electrical Parts.

[Namrups]

Use a #10 drill for the 1/8" rivets and a #30 drill for the 3/16" rivets. I ordered my bits from Aircraftspruce.com.

[burchfieldb]

Finally completed my inventory check - what a nightmare! 18 parts missing, some of which are needed early on in the build; shocks, diff bushings, control arm bolts etc. I have a feeling there will be some issues with bolts/nuts, as it seems that some of them are not even on the inventory list, so i won't know what i am missing until i get to it, like in the case of the upper control arm bolts/nuts.

Anyways, had my first mess up... Was getting started on assembling Wilwood brakes and somehow managed to get mixed up on the torque values and tried to torque the small rotor bolt to 81nm (60ft-lb) instead of 17 in-lb. You can guess the outcome. ~100$ mistake
20221227_214649.jpg

Luckily, since you can access the bolt through the back, i just used a small drill bit from the back which bit onto the leftover bolt and it unscrewed itself..

Did some shopping; got SAE socket set, 12 point sockets for the rotor bolts, and a set of SAE open end wrenches, but failed to find any inch drill bits. After searching everywhere, just decided to buy the closest metric matches:

• 3/32 (2.38mm) - 2.5mm
• 1/8 (3.175mm) - 3.2mm
• 9/64 (3.571mm) - 3.8mm
• 3/16 (4.7625mm) - 4.8mm
• 7/32 (5.56mm) - 5.5mm
• 1/4 (6.35mm) - 6.5mm
• 5/16 (7.93mm) - 8mm
• 7/16 (11.11mm) - 11mm
• 1/2 (12.7mm) - 13mm
• 5/8 (15.875mm) - 16mm

Surely the slightly larger drill bits will be just fine?

Planning on doing the IRS tomorrow as far as i can get with the parts i have

@burchfieldb - mine was in BOX4 along with Secondary body fasteners, Battery/Tray components, Misc Electrical Parts.

Yep, mine is missing and FFR said it did not print on the inventory list for some reason. They are going to add it to the list of missing parts. I also was missing the tee for the rear brake line, so I picked up one of those today. Like you, I am a little worried about what else is missing that is not on the list.

[nick729]

Use a #10 drill for the 1/8" rivets and a #30 drill for the 3/16" rivets. I ordered my bits from Aircraftspruce.com.

If i am not mistaken (which i might be) but i think you meant, #30 for 1/8" rivets and #10 for 3/16"?

1/8" Drill bit is 0.1248" or 3.1706mm (as per manual)
#30 Drill bit is 0.1285" or 3.2639mm (your recommendation)
I got 3.2mm (0.1260") drill bits, which are in the middle.

3/16" Drill bit is 0.1872" or 4.7555mm (as per manual)
#10 Drill bit is 0.1935" or 4.9149mm (your recommendation)
I got 4.8mm (0.1890") drill bits which is also in the middle between the two.

Differences between the FFR Manual, your recommendations and what i bought are very small. I am hoping that they are small enough not to have any impact. It is always much easier to buy local, since buying from the US takes around 2 weeks to reach me due to customs clearance...

[Namrups]

If i am not mistaken (which i might be) but i think you meant, #30 for 1/8" rivets and #10 for 3/16"?

1/8" Drill bit is 0.1248" or 3.1706mm (as per manual)
#30 Drill bit is 0.1285" or 3.2639mm (your recommendation)
I got 3.2mm (0.1260") drill bits, which are in the middle.

3/16" Drill bit is 0.1872" or 4.7555mm (as per manual)
#10 Drill bit is 0.1935" or 4.9149mm (your recommendation)
I got 4.8mm (0.1890") drill bits which is also in the middle between the two.

Differences between the FFR Manual, your recommendations and what i bought are very small. I am hoping that they are small enough not to have any impact. It is always much easier to buy local, since buying from the US takes around 2 weeks to reach me due to customs clearance...

Your right .... my bad.

[nick729]

Had a little tinker time after the new years, so had a crack at the IRS. I can't really put anything on, as i don't have the front bushings for the diff and no shocks either. Assembled the upper and lower control arms, as well as toe adjustment arms.. However, something is not right with the toe adjustment rod end. It is impossible to put the provided nuts on the rod end. It is the right size, but it just won't screw on. The linkage adjustment uses the same type of nut, and i can use the rod end nut on the linkage adjustment no problem, but the same nuts won't go on the rod end no matter what. Am i missing something obvious or what is the deal? 20230101_191951.jpg

Had a crack at safety wire. After a few tries, it is a fairly easy and simple process. 20230101_220226.jpg20230101_231855.jpg

Cut down the spindle ears as per manual, which was a lot harder than expected.. Initially tried it with sawzall, with different blades (wood, metal etc.) ended up just ruining them all, so got the angle grinder and problem was solved

[David Ferguson]

I think that linkage adjuster consists of a right-hand and left-hand threads. The nuts with the groove on them are probably left-hand thread. You may need right-hand jam nuts for the rod ends.

[nick729]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 20230107_232954.jpg

[Namrups]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 20230107_232954.jpg

I have not gotten there yet but I believe one of the other pieces is also used to connect to the fuel filler when you mount the body. Page 512 of the online manual shows it.

[bjblock]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 20230107_232954.jpg

The fuel tank strap fasteners should be in the Coupe Fastener Pack. I had some pieces missing from the fastener pack as well and after a week of back and forth e-mails I was able to get this inventory for the fastener pack, which includes part numbers. The tank strap bolts are PN 60503 and the nuts are 60381.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Mine had everything except the 1/2"-20 bolts/nuts for the front upper control arms and the 10" L-bolt, which actually came with the E-brake hardware.

[Namrups]

I took another look at my inventory and BJBLOCK is correct on the part numbers of the strap fasteners.

[nick729]

The fuel tank strap fasteners should be in the Coupe Fastener Pack. I had some pieces missing from the fastener pack as well and after a week of back and forth e-mails I was able to get this inventory for the fastener pack, which includes part numbers. The tank strap bolts are PN 60503 and the nuts are 60381.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Mine had everything except the 1/2"-20 bolts/nuts for the front upper control arms and the 10" L-bolt, which actually came with the E-brake hardware.

Thanks for the info, i do have these.. If it wasn't for your info there is no actual way of knowing what bolts are meant to be used for the tanks straps...

Also, the bolts don't fit the tank strap loops (rear of the frame), should i just hammer them in? The bolts are slightly larger than the loops they are meant to go through

On the same note, are lug nuts for the wheels provided with the kit? I don't remember seeing them when taking inventory and i cannot find them now...

[bjblock]

Namrups thread with his inventory list has been very helpful for me to figure out which fasteners are needed for a given step.

I had to open up the loops on the tank straps to get the bolts to fit. I used a punch with a handle that was slightly larger than the bolts and hammered that through the loop to open them up just enough to get the bolts through. On the other end of the straps, I had to use a longer bolt for the left strap like many others have had to do as well.

I didn't get lug nuts with my kit, but I also didn't order wheels through FFR.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for the info, i do have these.. If it wasn't for your info there is no actual way of knowing what bolts are meant to be used for the tanks straps...

Also, the bolts don't fit the tank strap loops (rear of the frame), should i just hammer them in? The bolts are slightly larger than the loops they are meant to go through

On the same note, are lug nuts for the wheels provided with the kit? I don't remember seeing them when taking inventory and i cannot find them now...

I used a larger punch, put the strap in a vice, and opened them up by bending the punch around. I accepted the fact that they were going to need to be repainted, as well as one side of my strap had no paint.

[Namrups]

My lug nuts were in one of the FF wheel boxes. 1/2"-20 open acorn lug nuts part #16221 20 required

[nick729]

My lug nuts were in one of the FF wheel boxes. 1/2"-20 open acorn lug nuts part #16221 20 required

Found them, they were in the box with wheel accessories (not on the pack list).

[nick729]

Received some of the fuel system parts:
FueLab Fuel pressure regulator -6AN 535
FueLab Fuel filter 10micron -6AN
some -6AN fuel fittings and adapters
20230111_204302.jpg

I am not using any hardlines for the fuel system and went with -06AN RedHorse Performance PTFE black hoses and black RHP fittings for it with Holley 12-132 455lph fuel pump. Still need to decide the best way to route the hoses and where to mount the regulator.

Finished assembling Wilwood rotors, I was dreading doing the safety wires on them, but surprisingly I can say I enjoyed it a lot

After consulting with Paul, I decided to order Howe Racing 22320S Upper Ball Joints, since one of the upper ball joints came damaged, might as well swap the out for something better along with Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boots and Energy Suspension 9-13101G Tie Rod End Dust Boots, thank you Paul!

Got my dyno results for the Blueprints LS427. Untitled1.jpg

FFR is being extremely slow with their answers, sent in my Missing Parts list more than 2 weeks ago - still have not received a reviewed list or info on when to expect shocks, diff mounts or LS headers.. Looks like it will be a while until i can finish suspension...

Any suggestions on what I should assemble next while waiting for the suspension parts and hardware?
20230111_204157.jpg

[burchfieldb]

Received some of the fuel system parts:
FueLab Fuel pressure regulator -6AN 535
FueLab Fuel filter 10micron -6AN
some -6AN fuel fittings and adapters
20230111_204302.jpg

I am not using any hardlines for the fuel system and went with -06AN RedHorse Performance PTFE black hoses and black RHP fittings for it with Holley 12-132 455lph fuel pump. Still need to decide the best way to route the hoses and where to mount the regulator.

Finished assembling Wilwood rotors, I was dreading doing the safety wires on them, but surprisingly I can say I enjoyed it a lot

After consulting with Paul, I decided to order Howe Racing 22320S Upper Ball Joints, since one of the upper ball joints came damaged, might as well swap the out for something better along with Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boots and Energy Suspension 9-13101G Tie Rod End Dust Boots, thank you Paul!

Got my dyno results for the Blueprints LS427. Untitled1.jpg

FFR is being extremely slow with their answers, sent in my Missing Parts list more than 2 weeks ago - still have not received a reviewed list or info on when to expect shocks, diff mounts or LS headers.. Looks like it will be a while until i can finish suspension...

Any suggestions on what I should assemble next while waiting for the suspension parts and hardware?
20230111_204157.jpg

I started temporarily putting on the sheet metal panes, drilling the holes, and holding them in place with Clecos. Installed my pedal box, installed the gas tank, fuel filter and lines, assembled the door frames and associated parts, installed the reservoirs, and ran my brake lines. You can use the photo's from Paul's build to estimate where the frame mounts go for the brake lines. I also installed my steering parts after doing the sheet metal panels. Going to finish up the brake lines and then possibly start laying out the electrical.

[nick729]

Looks like it's sheet metal pane time for me then. Question related to the sheet panes - my plan is to powder coat them all black/dark grey, should i just powder coat all of them, or are there any panes that should not be coated for some reason (or there is no point in coating them). I am using the carpets, and sound deadening/insulation from FFR.

[Nigel Allen]

With all the wet weather around you, it's likely worth doing all. Make sure you drill them first.

Cheers, Nige

[nick729]

With all the wet weather around you, it's likely worth doing all. Make sure you drill them first.

Cheers, Nige

I don't plan on driving it during less than perfect conditions, but seems to me that i should just go ahead and coat them all

Borrowed the idea of painting control arms and other suspension bits from @Namrups build. My initial plan was to use Duplicolor Metalcast Series Spray paint, that give a deep anodized color, however, after trying to source paint, my plans were quickly shattered. Duplicolor Metalcast series is not available in Europe and since it is classed as a hazardous item, no retailer will ship them to Europe (Summit, Amazon etc...). Will have to visit paint shop and see what options i have, but looks like i will have to get custom mixed spray cans for the suspension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18Lm...el=FordMercGuy

Idea is simple Red Metallic paint for the control arms (Coupe will most likely be some shade of Candy Apple Red) - 3x prime coat, 3x top coat and 2x lacquer. Should be more than adequate in terms of durability for the occasional drive in good weather. Still haven't decided if i will paint the rear cover of the diff, but if i do, i will most likely paint it black. As for hubs and spindles, I think I will be more conservative and go with black, to go with the black Wilwood rotors and also with the rear spacer which I have yet to buy.

Got an email from FFR yesterday in terms of my missing parts, turns out my kit is actually one of the very first kits that were prepared in the new system. As it turns out, some parts/hardware are not on the pack lists and therefore missing, so they are going line by line and double checking what parts are not on my list.. Just my luck!