Big washers in front suspension hardware pack?

[Mastertech5]

What are the big washers in the front suspension hardware pack for? Logic says they are for mounting the grill/ radiator assembly, but I can't find any reference to them in the manual. There is a picture showing bolting the grill assembly to brackets but not showing putting those brackets on. Am I missing something? Are there a set of instructions that come with the grill? I don't have that because I haven't ordered the stage 2 body kit yet.

[Papa]

Not sure on the 33, but there are some large washers in the Roadster kit that get used to fill space on the lower control arm attachment.



The washers are used so that you don't have slop between the bushing and mounting tab and also so you don't deform the tabs when tightening the bolts.

[Mastertech5]

Thanks Papa but I didn't need them for that. Why wouldn't they send me eight if I happened to need one for each control arm mounting point, unless they send the same pack no matter what kit you are building. Any Hot Rod guys out there have an opinion? Thanks

[edwardb]

Don't have the 33. But nearly done with the truck, which has the same front end. Those aren't for the lower control arms like the Roadster. Different LCA's (no option for donor parts) and no additional spacers required. I don't remember large washers like you're describing and don't see them in my truck build manual either. Looked through the pictures of my build. Nothing there either. I don't have them on the mounting bracket for the radiator/grille. That bracket is captured under the front UCA bolts which already have large flange nuts. No additional washer required. So, I don't know...

[FF33rod]

Picture? what size bolt do they fit on?

Steve

[Mastertech5]

Picture? what size bolt do they fit on?

Steve

They look like they would fit on the 16mms bolts for the control arms. About 2 inches in diameter. 4 in total.

IMG_20220915_153536_hdr.jpg

[mmklaxer]

The rear mounts of the LCAs are by design wider to accommodate OEM control arms. So you may likely need them on the rear mounts. the fronts are a tighter fit, though welding may cause the metal to flex. Some folks have found the need to spread out the mounting tabs, others use those washers to take up space. I think 2 are wider and 2 slightly narrower IIRC.

The FF Build video mentions it if you go online.

[edwardb]

They look like they would fit on the 16mms bolts for the control arms. About 2 inches in diameter. 4 in total.

IMG_20220915_153536_hdr.jpg

I initially thought that too. But the provided bolts aren't long enough to capture both the radiator/grille brackets and the washers. The threads wouldn't make it all the way through the nuts. A related hint from my build experience. The radiator/grille brackets are adjustable (slotted) and once located, it's critical they stay there. Not necessarily easy by only tightening the upper control arm bolts. Once I had finalized mine, I drilled a hole through the UCA bracket and pinned the bracket locations. The brackets already have a hole that appears to be for that purpose. But not mentioned in the manual.

The rear mounts of the LCAs are by design wider to accommodate OEM control arms. So you may likely need them on the rear mounts. the fronts are a tighter fit, though welding may cause the metal to flex. Some folks have found the need to spread out the mounting tabs, others use those washers to take up space. I think 2 are wider and 2 slightly narrower IIRC.

The FF Build video mentions it if you go online.

True for the Roadster. This is a 33 Hot Rod. The front suspension has different components and not set up to accept donor (OE) control arms. So no allowance needed for the added width. Clarified in previous posts.

[FF33rod]

So I've looked at both the gen 1 and an earlier version of the gen 2 manual and can't find reference to these in either, at least not as it relates to the front suspension or the grill assembly mounting.

I did end up putting a washer on each side behind the radiator mount that is attached with the upper control arm bolt in order to push the radiator assembly forward a bit as I had interference with the fan shroud and the inboard ends of the suspension and needed a hair more space. However, that's not in the manual and is only 2 washers.

Sorry, can't be more help

Steve

[Mastertech5]

Thanks all for your responses. I'm sure there is more hardware given than is needed by what I've read about people having cans of leftovers. The manuals are lacking in some details for sure. The nose cone mounting under the grill still shows a Gen. 1 one piece nose cone and from what I've seen, the Gen.2 are two separate pieces.

[33fromSD]

Thanks all for your responses. I'm sure there is more hardware given than is needed by what I've read about people having cans of leftovers. The manuals are lacking in some details for sure. The nose cone mounting under the grill still shows a Gen. 1 one piece nose cone and from what I've seen, the Gen.2 are two separate pieces.

I glassed my nose cone together to make one piece. Much easier to install and fit (& finish).

20210225_103030.jpg 20210225_065005.jpg


Jim

[Mastertech5]

Did you fit them and trim to fit first of after you glassed them together. Getting the angle right must have been tough.

[33fromSD]

Did you fit them and trim to fit first of after you glassed them together. Getting the angle right must have been tough.

Mine were messed up, they were too short; FFR was willing to send new pieces but I just elected to fix the ones I had, so there wasn't a lot of trimming to do. The greenish pieces in front in the first pic above was new material l needed to add.

But to answer your question, first I bolted the together (you can see three bolts in the 2nd pic above), then I mounted the nose cone to the 33, then I riveted a thin aluminum strip to the cone matching the missing material, took it off, added mold release to the back side of the aluminum, added glass, let cure, remounted it to the 33, trimmed/cleaned up edges to make sure the fit was nice, drilled holes for mounting to the grill, then removed & glass the two section together.

Once everything was cured, I sanded down the glass, did final body work / prep, primed, painted & cleared.

20210306_073808.jpg 20210306_073814.jpg 20210402_070153.jpg

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Mine were messed up, they were too short; FFR was willing to send new pieces but I just elected to fix the ones I had, so there wasn't a lot of trimming to do. The greenish pieces in front in the first pic above was new material l needed to add.

But to answer your question, first I bolted the together (you can see three bolts in the 2nd pic above), then I mounted the nose cone to the 33, then I riveted a thin aluminum strip to the cone matching the missing material, took it off, added mold release to the back side of the aluminum, added glass, let cure, remounted it to the 33, trimmed/cleaned up edges to make sure the fit was nice, drilled holes for mounting to the grill, then removed & glass the two section together.

Once everything was cured, I sanded down the glass, did final body work / prep, primed, painted & cleared.

20210306_073808.jpg 20210306_073814.jpg 20210402_070153.jpg

Jim

Nice job! When I was watching Street Rod Jim's video his were also to short. Then I read somewhere about the tilt back of the grill, that guys were laying it back too far. Haven't got there yet so we'll see. Thanks for the info.

[33fromSD]

Nice job! When I was watching Street Rod Jim's video his were also to short. Then I read somewhere about the tilt back of the grill, that guys were laying it back too far. Haven't got there yet so we'll see. Thanks for the info.

I read that too, but unfortunately the grill being laid back too far was not my problem. FFR thought at the time either I got nose cone pieces that were previously trimmed too short and returned or there was a defect when they were made. They had batch problem at one point in time early on in Gen2 production. Rather than waiting on new ones to show up I just taught myself how to do fiberglass.

In some cases Fiberglass is easier than metal work but a lot messier in terms of dust & prep.

Jim

[JimLev]

I tipped my grill all the way back and then found out (after it was too late) that the belt line on the sides of the hood needed to be trimmed down a lot in order for the front of the hood to fit into the top of the grill. It was a lot of unnecessary work that wasn’t needed if I didn’t tip the grill all the way back.
Look at the belt line in this pic. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing, it’s just different.

77D641CF-8C33-4302-952D-C6F2B6452F16.jpg

[Mastertech5]

I tipped my grill all the way back and then found out (after it was too late) that the belt line on the sides of the hood needed to be trimmed down a lot in order for the front of the hood to fit into the top of the grill. It was a lot of unnecessary work that wasn’t needed if I didn’t tip the grill all the way back.
Look at the belt line in this pic. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing, it’s just different.

77D641CF-8C33-4302-952D-C6F2B6452F16.jpg

I think it looks good that way! The taper adds style.