I'm fairly new to this forum and very glad to be here to document my ’35 Truck build.
I've been asked by many to document my '35 build, as I’ve done with all my previous builds (I referenced two at the end of this post). I'll keep this thread updated along the way... so it may end up being a bit long. So subscribe to this thread (via the "Thread Tool" above) to come along for the journey and share my experiences.
I also want to say I’ll shamelessly “borrow” ideas from many on this forum and acknowledge them, e.g., Paul (aka EdwardB), Frank, Erik, Tom W, Bruce, etc. (too many to list). Afterall, a great idea is a great idea. Why reinvent the wheel? With all I’ve learned from this forum's members….. hopefully what I can share can help others as much as the help I've received.
Background on the Build Strategy:
The intent of this build is clearly a bit over the top (some might say), with modifications being the key focus. I want a modern chassis, suspension, braking, steering, tires and comforts, but with a pretty much "look" of the original ’35 Ford pickup. I intend to choose colors that represent this time period.
So, this truck will be a modern chassis/suspension, the engine will be a Coyote 5.0 Gen 3. Since this truck will be my daily driver, I waited until Factory Five offered their Gen 2 Truck with the extended cab. This power plant will drive through a Tremec Magnum T56 6-speed w/ double OD manual trans and a Moser posi-track rear end, Wilwood big brakes front and rear, power rack and pinion steering and hydraulic driven clutch, upgraded Koni double adjustable shocks are part of the mix also. The '35 will also have automated air conditioning, backup camera in the rear view mirror, GPS driven Dakota Digital Speedo, cruise control, Ceramic coated or wrapped headers and exhaust, 2.5" stainless steel dual exhaust extended to the rear of the truck bed, and additional gauges (i.e., some of my gauges will be custom made by Speed Hut to match the Dakota format/backgrounds, e.g., Oil Temp, Vacuum, Clock and Fuel pressure). I also plan to do some light towing... so I'll add a 2" receiver hitch, backup lights, air bags & compressor, electric brakes, etc. For my truck bed, I planning on a Black Walnut wood with high gloss finish. For the '35’s interior, I'll be fitting new leather bucket seats from Wise Guys, , building my own console with a lot of “built-ins”, along with modern stereo system/speakers, intermittent wipers, tilt steering column/wheel, security system, tinted windows, etc.
Lastly, for the first time, I’ll do my own body and paint. I’ll purchase an inflatable paint booth to help me. It won’t be a really big one, as I’ll paint all in pieces vs put together on the chassis. I also intend to inflate the paint booth inside the middle bay of my garage. I’ll gain new experiences doing this; I can truly say “I did it”, should save my $$$s and I can sell some of this after I’m done.
General Preparation
Introduction
In this thread, I’ll share what I did to get prepared for the build. To get off to the best start you can, with the least negative impacts to your build, you’ll need to prep, research and prep some more.
Where will you work?
I’m very fortunate to have a good size 3 car garage (40’wide x 30’ deep), with very good lighting, as part of our house that I can use as my build space. This space is insulated and I have air-conditioning and heat (with two ceiling fans to help circulate the air).
The space is fully finished with workbenches. The walls have 28' of cabinets. The floor is polished and sealed/epoxy coated concrete (now, that’s a good project for all of you!). It’s really is worth the effort, No Concrete Dust ! I also have a large number of mechanic tools. I have all the floor jacks, jack stands, 2-Post car lift, air compressor and air tools, grinders, 2-ton engine hoist, MIG & Tig welders (both steel and aluminum), Plasma cutter, impact and torque wrenches, hand and power tools, etc. etc.
Some ask, “Why” I do all this work to document and share the experience?... simple answer is I've gained so much knowledge from others in many different forums for all the car builds I've done. Therefore, me documenting my builds in detail is my way to "Pay it forward".
So, stay tuned and I'll start the updates. I ordered my ’35 truck back in late July 2022 with a planned ship date of April 2023. I’ll work this project starting now with ordering parts/upgrades before truck order receipt since many items take weeks or months to receive (either due to backordered parts or being custom made). I’ll take tons of pictures and share what, why, how, etc along the way.
I also hope to receive feedback, both good and bad, suggestions, questions and comments of the build and why I did it that way… are there alternatives I should have considered, as an example.
Thanks and I'm happy to have each you follow along this journey.
Woo-hoo.. I just learned how to copy the BB code to get full size pics in my posts.
In North Carolina, you're allowed to used past/old license plates that match the year of your vehicle. I was lucky to fine a very good '35 NC plate on eBay for my truck. It's made of steel, a little wider and not as tall as today's plate.
Over the past weeks, I've been searching the web for an "Old Timey" vehicle color to be somewhat "Period Correct". I wanted a color that would standout and not be typical of the vast majority of colors others pick for vintage/classic automobiles.
Well, I've found that color scheme from a Good Guys car winner. It has several colors... light pastel green, a darker emerald green, gloss black and tan pin strips.
In this picture, it shows the overall colors of the body, beltline, wheels, fenders & running boards.
This next picture, is a closeup of the wheel.... darker emerald green to match the beltline, the tan pinstripe around the rim, gloss black between the wheel and hub cap, chrome hub cap to match the chrome mirrors, door handles and headlight buckets that FF supplies with the kit. I even ordered the same wheels from Wheel Smith and they will powder coat the wheels in Emerald Green and the Gloss Black hub cap mount ring. The wheels will take about 8 weeks to receive.
Up next is a shot of the beltline with the emerald green overlaid on the light pastel green with tan pinstripe. I'll use the '35's beltline on the cab, doors, hood, and bed sides. I also really like the beltline sweep up in front of the windshield on the cowl.
And lastly, a closeup of the beltline and sweep up on the cowl.
Stay tune.... parts are starting to come in and I'll share the key items and why I chose them.
Parts 1, Fuel charcoal vent, Dif cover, fuel line, horn and side steps
Quick update.... A few items came in and I also decided to go ahead and make my Fuel Charcoal canister (credit to Paul, aka EwardB).
First pic is of some parts, Moser Differential cover. It's a beefed up heavy aluminum cover that also supports the bearing end caps. I cleaned it with acetone and clear coated it to prevent oxidation. In addition, the Ahooga Ooga horn, SS braided black fuel lines and "Ford" side step plates also arrived.
Question: does anyone know how to prevent gear oil leaking past the bearing end cap bolts?.... e.g., do I use some sort of pipe thread sealer/ Teflon tape? And, is there a particular brand I need?
Next up, the fuel pump hanger and electric fuel pump. I went with the same parts Paul did since I know he did his homework and used this setup before. The pump will supply the lpm and psi needed for the Gen 3 Coyote engine. The hanger has the larger 3/8" tubing vs the standard 5/16"
And last, again following Paul's lead, I made my charcoal canister fuel tank vent. The only difference from Paul's is I went with 3" PCV coupler. For the inside top and bottom I used fish tank charcoal filter pads to prevent the added activated charcoal filler the fills the void between the top and bottom end caps from coming out. As you'll see clearly in the last pic is I used two SS screws in the 3" coupler to hold the endcaps in place (vs glue) to allow for activated charcoal change in the future if needed.
As more "stuff" shows up, I'll share. Again, my goal here is to have all I need for the build... when that time comes. Also, many items just take a lot of time to show up, e.g, seats, wheels, hood side cover vents, instrument cluster unit, etc. I'm also making a master wire diagram that uses Factory Five's wire diagram as a basis and then adding all my additional items to it... more on that later. The process of advance planning and ordering really gets your head into the game and will help eliminate "some" of the surprises. As you all know who has done projects like this before, you'll get surprises and issues most every day that will have to be dealt with in some form or another.
I spy a nice '51 grille on the wall in one of them pics!
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
Here is a pic of my '48, shes gone now but I love that era of the F1's!!
Subscribed IMG-20130922-00220.jpg
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
Air Bags, Alloy Brake lines, fire ext and electrical items
A few more items showed up yesterday.
In the first pic below, it shows the Air Bag parts I bought. As I said in my intro above, I intend to do some light towing (and to be on the safe side), I'm going to fabricate some mounting brackets and install an air bag system. The psi gauge, on/off switch and pressure relief valve will be taken apart from the under the dash mount from the factory and I'll install into the center console I'll have to fabricate. Based on all the pictures of the truck frame and the rear end I've seen, I'll have the room needed to install the air bags. I have a trailer hitch that's meant to bolt onto a OEM track frame that I'll cut up/modify to work on the "35 truck frame/body. I also have an electric brake module and 7-pin socket I'll be installing and will provide more info on all that later. The air compressor enclosure will most like go under a seat or truck bed (all TBD).
Also arriving were some other misc parts. Going clockwise starting at the 12:00 position are some misc electrical USB plugs. I'll also install a standard 12v cig socket. I also plan to install a power outlet above the windshield.... I plan to install several items that will need power in that area, e.g., review mirror that's self dimming with a backup camera display in the mirror, a forward looking Garmin camera recorder, and a universal garage door opener I'll install into the roof lining I'll be making. At the 2:00 position are the leather straps and associated hardware for the hood hold down, door pulls and stops (I've already put high quality leather treatment on the leather to help withstand exposure to rain/sun/elements. At the 6:00 position is two 25' rolls of a nickel/copper alloy for the 3/16" brake lines. What makes this type of brake line desirable is it's ability to withstand corrosion and it's workability. At the 9:30 position is the rollbar mountable fire extinguisher (thanks Paul for the idea) and lastly at 11:00 are two iPhone doc stations. Not only can I charge the phones, but I'll use the phone for GPS/Navigation. My radio will also support hands free use of the phone via Bluetooth connection or wired via the radio USB port.
Just a quick update.... I received the windshield wiper and washer systems.
First picture is the Deluxe windshield wiper system I bought from Speedway. I believe the "thing" that makes it deluxe is the variable speed/pause wiper switch with push button washer function. I also bought the upgraded CNC aluminum wiper arms.
The next picture below is the actual washer fluid bottle/pump, hoses and directional squirt nozzles. I have no idea where I'll mount this, but I want to hide it as much as possible while still easily access able for refills and service.
Lastly, I received a notice from UPS of the pending delivery of the Aluminum hood side panels vents.... I'll share them once received.
Engine Side Cover Vents, Lizard Skin and Truck bed liner
A few more items showed up yesterday.
First up, I received my engine side cover vents. I had then clear anodized which should help with preventing corrosion. These will allow the small engine compartment to dissipate some heat and I think they look good and period correct. I also plan on wrapping the headers/exhaust pipes and shields atop the mufflers (I have this stuff on order also).
This last pic shows two products, 1) Lizard Skin, a heat and sound proofing system with spray gun, and 2) Raptor protective coating and spray gun (like truck bed liner). I'll spray the Lizard Skin in the cab (e.g., cab body, floor, door interiors and firewall). I may also do the underside of the hood and engine side covers. For the Raptor product, I'll spray the underside of the 4 fenders and running boards. I'll most likely also spray the underside of both the floor pans and truck bed.
Oil & Gas radiators, cooling fan and Backup Lights
In this post, I'll share my intent and thoughts why. Some of the parts in the picture below I've had laying around the shop and I plan to incorporate them into my '35 build.
At the 12:00 position, is a radiator I'll use for oil cooling. The fan at the 9:00 position will draw cold air over the oil radiator. The fan will be triggered from my Dakota Digital cooling fan controller. The Dakota Digital cooling fan controller can operate two fans and can be set with a "turn-on" temp. Fan 1 will trigger my front coolant radiator fan while Fan 2 will trigger the oil cooling fan. I'll mount this oil radiator/fan somewhere under the truck bed.
At the 3:00 position is a oil flow block thermostat. When the oil temp is below the thermostats "Open" setting, the oil from the engine will just loop back and return to the engine. Since I'm going to use a Coyote engine, it will have a remote oil filter adaptor..... therefore, the output from the engine oil will run to the remote oil filter. The output from the remote oil filter will run to the oil thermostat block and then the return output of the oil thermostat will run back to the engine (refer to the diagram I drew up below). Once the oil temp exceeds the temp sensor's setting, the thermostat opens, it will route oil to the oil radiator, then back to the oil thermostat and back to the engine. The oil thermostat block will also house the oil temp sensor that a gauge in the cab will display the oil temp (note it's installed in the picture).
Regarding the gas "return line" radiator at the 6:00 position in the picture, I'll install a bypass with 3 On/Off ball valves (again, note the diagram below). This is probably not required, but I had it and will use it and install close to the gas tank under the truck bed.
At the 4:30 position, are two LED backup lights and the bracket that attaches to the hitch receiver I'll install. This way, the backup lights will not only work as normal backup lights, but I also install a switch that I can turn them on while the truck is off or in neutral to illuminate the trailer hitch area.
In the center of the picture, are two more items.... a radiator cap thermometer and a lockable gas fill tank cap. My hope is I can mount the gas filler on the side of the truck bed vs through the truck bed wood floor.
I thought I'd share a few more items that came in:
1. Windshield mounted rearview mirror with built in display for the included rear camera. The mirror is also auto dimming. I'm not sure where I'll mount the camera as I'll have to try a few locations when building the truck.
2. Electric Brake controller with variable brake pressure and a 7-pin trailer connector
3. Third brake light. I'll mount to the rear cab above the window. This LED unit has the "red" 3rd Brake light in center and two outside "white" bed lights. I'll connect the bed lights to the separate "Ignition only" +12v hot source with a lite switch.
Hopefully my wheels and seats will come soon. The Dakota Digital (DD) main gauge cluster (pic below from DD web site) is backordered until Jan 2023.
With all the supply chain issues, one has to order "stuff" well in advance..... just nuts!!
Pic above shows the rearview mirror and camera, elec brake controller, 7-pin socket for trailer and the 3rd Brake light
Here is the main gauge cluster I ordered from Dakota Digital (DD). I ordered the dark face one as shown. The center screen can display a lot of different items from all the Dakota Digital addon modules I ordered, e.g., Cruise Control, compass, outside temp, info from the Coyote engine controller OBD II interface module, GPS digital speed, Tire pressure from the TPMS, etc. I'll document more during the build and installation.
Lastly, the DD has the ability for me to change colors for the backlighting.... here's just one night color.
I already bought the Vintage Gen II evaporator and the Dakota Digital Automatic controller (see pics below). I'll also purchase AC kit from FF but won't use the evaporator or manual controls that comes with it.
I did document some of this in a separate thread, but I wanted to include it in my build thread for anyone following along to see a complete picture of the build.
Here's the head unit that controls the A/C & Heat for the set temp.
In the pic below, the entire Dakota Digital DCC-2200 module package is shown.... 3 air temp sensors, one temp prob that goes into the evaporator, fan control module for the evaporator fan, etc.
I already bought the Vintage Gen II evaporator and the Dakota Digital Automatic controller (see pics below). I'll also purchase AC kit from FF but won't use the evaporator or manual controls that comes with it.
I did document some of this in a separate thread, but I wanted to include it in my build thread for anyone following along to see a complete picture of the build.
Here's the head unit that controls the A/C & Heat for the set temp.
In the pic below, the entire Dakota Digital DCC-2200 module package is shown.... 3 air temp sensors, one temp prob that goes into the evaporator, fan control module for the evaporator fan, etc.
Thanks, Mark
Nice. That's true OE level with the automatic climate control.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I decided to go with a Manual Transmission, Tremec T56. In doing my research, I'm going with the Model 11011 which has the 2.97 1st gear ratio and a .5 ratio in 6th gear/Overdrive. This should be well suited for the Coyote engine and the Moser 3.55 rear end/differential combo.
One thing I found about this transmission is it has a Reverse Gear lockout solenoid. To open the solenoid to allow for the shifter to get the transmission into reverse requires a +12v input to the lockout solenoid. Some opt to remove the reverse gear lockout like a "normal" manual transmission.... but, I understand 5th and Reverse gears are very close, therefore, the reason the lockout was put there by Tremec. I also read where some hook the brake light to this lockout solenoid, but that means the solenoid is exercised every time the brake is pressed... this is not a good option for me. So, I chose a gear shift knob with a push button switch. I'm going with the Hurst shift knob pictured below. I'll power the shifter switch from the output of the brake light switch (see diagram below) that will feed the +12v to the lockout solenoid. So to put the trans into reverse, I'll have to press the brake, press the red button on the shift knob then put shifter into reverse.... Clean and simple solution.
Regarding the alternator, A Honda Civic alternator or clone must be used. Honda alternators basically come in 70 Amps size and must run counter clockwise (CCW). I did fine one rated for 80 AMP....
Then, I discovered this alternator to be a direct replacement for the Honda alternator that is CCW and rated for 160 AMPs. I just received it last week. It came with all the test data sheets showing the volts and amps by RPM. The alternator spins around 3 to 4 times more RPMs than the engine RPM due to its smaller pulley.
I assume you know there's another option for the T-56 reverse lockout, although you didn't list it. American Powertrain has a module (their part number ELUN-10013) that senses speed via the transmission's built-in speed sensor and activates the relay allowing reverse only when you're not in motion. So you have nothing to do. It's automatic and seamless. Have one in my Daytona Coupe and it works perfectly. Highly recommended. I don't know that the reason Tremec installed the reverse lockout function has anything to do with how close reverse is to 5th. Lots of other transmission have similar combinations. What it does is completely "closes the gate" past the 5th and 6th shift path. As long as the lockout is active, you can be as aggressive as you want moving the shifter that direction and 5th is always up and 6th is always down. No chance of getting into the reverse gear. It's nice. I like it a lot.
As for the T-56 ratios, I have the 2.66 1st and .63 6th in my Coupe, although with a 3.73 diff. Also a Coyote. I'm very happy with the combination. Wouldn't change anything. Ran the numbers for your combination (https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php) and even with the 3.55 diff, your choice seems a little short for me in 1st and long in 5th and 6th. Mine runs out of 1st quickly, and so will yours. The Coyote loves to rev. At the very least, you may want to consider the 2.97 1st version. As for 6th, granted .50 will give you a nice low RPM at highway speeds. Maybe too low? You may find yourself shifting out of 6th when the speed reduces a bit. Again, the Coyote loves to rev and is very smooth and quiet even at 2,000+. A slightly higher 5th also gives you a nice mid-range cruise ratio when less than highway speeds. No wrong answers because the Coyote is very flexible and with a flat torque curve. But thought I'd share my experience.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-23-2022 at 04:12 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I assume you know there's another option for the T-56 reverse lockout, although you didn't list it. American Powertrain has a module (their part number ELUN-10013) that senses speed via the transmission's built-in speed sensor and activates the relay allowing reverse only when you're not in motion. So you have nothing to do. It's automatic and seamless. Have one in my Daytona Coupe and it works perfectly. Highly recommended. I don't know that the reason Tremec installed the reverse lockout function has anything to do with how close reverse is to 5th. Lots of other transmission have similar combinations. What it does is completely "closes the gate" past the 5th and 6th shift path. As long as the lockout is active, you can be as aggressive as you want moving the shifter that direction and 5th is always up and 6th is always down. No chance of getting into the reverse gear. It's nice. I like it a lot.
As for the T-56 ratios, I have the 2.66 1st and .63 6th in my Coupe, although with a 3.73 diff. Also a Coyote. I'm very happy with the combination. Wouldn't change anything. Ran the numbers for your combination (https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php) and even with the 3.55 diff, your choice seems a little short for me in 1st and long in 5th and 6th. Mine runs out of 1st quickly, and so will yours. The Coyote loves to rev. At the very least, you may want to consider the 2.97 1st version. As for 6th, granted .50 will give you a nice low RPM at highway speeds. Maybe too low? You may find yourself shifting out of 6th when the speed reduces a bit. Again, the Coyote loves to rev and is very smooth and quiet even at 2,000+. A slightly higher 5th also gives you a nice mid-range cruise ratio when less than highway speeds. No wrong answers because the Coyote is very flexible and with a flat torque curve. But thought I'd share my experience.
Thanks Paul.... I dig a little further and check out the American Powertrain part.... Mark
Well, I pulled the trigger and made a really big Summit Racing order, $21k+ to purchase the Coyote, Tremex T56 six speed manual trans, Engine control module, QuickTime bell housing, Tilton billet Dual dick clutch, Tilton Billet fly wheel, Tilton Hydraulic Throw-out bearing electric, starter, 304 SS exhaust parts to have the exhaust exit the rear of the truck bed, 304 SS "H" pipe for the exhaust, electric emergency brake (I'll delete the hand e-brake) and lots of misc. things. I'll report out on all that when it starts to come in. My WiseGuy leather bucket seats should be here soon and I'm still waiting on the wheels. I also order some parts from Factory Five that should be hear soon, e.g., Coyote A/C package, Moser rear end, Wilwood Brakes, Coyote engine install kit, etc.
Pic 1 below shows the garage door opener I'll install. I'll fabricate an upper front roof panel to hold the opener, clock and a few more items (e.g., switches, gauges) to help keep the dash cleaner. More on all that later.
Pic 2 below SS Tie-Down loops.
Pic 2 shows the polished stainless steel (marine grade) tie down loops. I'll attached one to each corner of the wood bed. My wood bed will be fabricated in such a way so I can lift it out of the bed after I release some attachment points. I also want to try to have the gas fill cap located on the right rear bed side panel to keep the wood bed "whole" and without anything attached to it except the SS tie downs.
Well, my Tilton package showed up last night.... i.e, Tilton's kit with billet chromium flywheel and ST-246 twin disc clutch for the Gen 3 Coyote engine and I also ordered the Tilton Hydraulic throw-out bearing for the Tremec T-56 6-speed transmission. This is quality stuff and all parts on CNC'd milled billet and Zero stamped steel. The Clutch and flywheel are specific to each other (and specific to the Coyote) with a raised lip on the flywheel to center the clutch housing to (the video below shows this clearly shows this)...... I've used the Tilton throw-out bearing before, but never the flywheel/clutch kit. It has great reviews with a very "streetable" clutch disc organic compound with ~850ft-lb torque load.
After cleaning the Tilton Billet Chromoly Flywheel, I mounted it to the crankshaft with the Tilton supplied ARP bolts torqued to 70 ftlb. I also installed a Ford Performance needle bearing pilot bearing.
The pic below shows the Ford Performance Needle Pilot Bearing installed.
Here, I'm ensuring the flywheel clutch surface is square to the QuickTime bellhousing mounting flange the Tremec T56 6spd manual trans will mount to. It was well within spec at only 2 thousandth (.002") out
As I tighten the Tilton twin disc ST-246 Billet clutch assembly down to the flywheel @ 1/4 turn on each mounting bolt at a time, to ensure even square mounting, this picture shows the point with the clutch centering tabs aligning with the flywheel's centering ridge ring.
In this shot, the tabs are now seated and flush with the flywheel and torqued to 35 ftlb.
Once the clutch was installed, I then checked to ensure the crank & clutch where centered relative to the bellhousing/trans mounting flange. I then rotated the crank and the measurements again were well withing spec at only .002" out. This ensures the trans input shaft and the crank/clutch were in spec and aligned properly.
With the Tilton ST-246 clutch and the Tremec T56 part 11010, I had to trim the trans pilot tube from around the input shaft by 1/2".
Before trimming, here's the process I used to verify the measurements.
First, I measured the length of the pilot tube from the mounting face of the trans.... it's ~3"
Then I measured the distance from the bellhousing mount face to the top of the first clutch disc... it's ~2.3"
So the next step was to cut/shorten the pilot tube by 1/2" to ensure a gap from the end of the pilot tube to the clutch disc. Starting cut here with a cutoff wheel.
Pilot tube cut. I did some light filing to remove any burrs.
I'll be installing Tilton's Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing, starter and trans after the holiday and I'll post pics soon after.
Happy Thanksgiving to all..... we're off to your youngest sons house for the holiday in the Tampa FL area.
Mark
Tilton Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing, Trans and starter install
I've finished the clutch, trans, engine and starter install. To complete it, I installed the Tilton Hydraulic throw-bearing to the output shaft of the Tremec T-56 6-spd transmission.... aftermeasuring the distance from the Trans mounting face to the clutches' fingers (~3"), you subtract .125" (1/8") for clearance from the bearing face to the clutch fingers. Once this was completed, I mounted the trans to the engine bellhousing.
Pic 1 shows the inside the bellhousing... i.e., throw-out bearing and clutch face/fingers.
This shot shows the two hydraulic lines coming from the throw-out bearing... the top one is the blead line and the bottom one with the red dust cap is where the master cylinder for the clutch will connect to.
Full side shot of trans/end
Lastly, the Ford Performance mini starter is installed..... I learned a lesson here... There are two starters for the Coyote engine.... a two hole mount for Auto Trans and a 3 hole mount for manual trans. I've never seen any other engine family with two different starters based on installed transmission.
Wheels and seats have been delivered.... pictures to follow soon.
I received my wheels, wheel trim rings and V8 stamped hub caps from WheelSmith. Quality and service are both very high. I had WheelSmith powder coat the wheels and trim rings. The hub caps are heavy polished stainless steel with a stamped V8. I wanted the stamped V8 to match the gloss black powder coated trim rings to pull it all together. I still plan to pin strip the rims and I'll post that later.
First, I scuffed up the V8 part of the hub cap. I found that jeweler files worked best..... if I used sand paper or Dremel attachments I risked scratching the other area of the hub cap. Once I have all four hub caps scuffed, I cleaned with Acetone.
I used Gloss Black Signs Painters 1Shot lettering/pin strip enamel paint. It flowed out well and covered in one heavy coat. As usual, the camera highlights the reflections that the naked eye doesn't see..... i.e., looks much better in person. Once paint fully cures, I'll polish and put a good coat of polymer "wax" like I'll used on the complete body paint. Zaino is my favorite product.
Here's 2 pictures showing the stack of 4 wheels with Hub Cap, trim ring just sitting on top for a "visual".
OK.... for those that want to try pin-striping themselves.... it's very easy with the Beugler pin-striping tool. It comes with various size pin-strip widths and even double pin-strip wheels..... Again, crazy easy to use and get pretty professional results. Below you'll see the wheels I just did. I cleaned the outer rim of the powder coated wheels with pre paint cleaner and Isopropyl Alcohol. I used Tan Sign Painters 1Shot enamel paint and no thinners. The tool comes with adjustable guide bars. I use one to ride the outside of the rim while painting pin-strip 1. For pin-strip 2, I removed the guide bar and just kept the tool riding against the inside lip of the rim. I also bought a 12" Lazy Susan at Lowes, laid a piece of plywood on the Lazy Susan while I held my hand still with the tool and rotated the wheel clockwise with my left hand. I'll also use this Beugler tool to pin-strip the beltline on the cab and hood. For more info on the Beugler, check out YouTube videos as it does all sorts of things I can't get into.
First two pictures are me doing pin-strip 1
Pics 3 and 4 show the second pin-strip being applied.
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Originally Posted by Salty Chief 35
