Mark's '35 Truck Build Extended w/Gen 3 Coyote

[mkassab]

OK, here's the final prep.... Part 2 of 2 of the Bedside Rails and Stakes.

The first couple of pics show the general layout of the rails and all clamped in place so I can now drill the holes to fasten them all together. I'll use ss screws, nuts and washers. I'll also put a washer between the rail and the stake to allow a some air gap to help prevent and moisture being trapped between the wood.





In the next pic below, you can see how the FFR Bed side Stake Pockets will cover the wood stakes. With all this mockup, it will allow me to epoxy the Stake Pockets in place on the Bed Side for final bodywork and paint.



To hold the stakes in place, I'll drill 2 holes into the stake from the inside bed side. On the backside of the stake, I'll counter sink a T-nut. I'll show details later once I'm finished the mockup.



Mark

[mkassab]

I was asked in a PM to show the hardware I plan to use.

For the Rail to Stake, here's the inside view:



Rail to stake outside view with acorn nut:



Bed Side to stake inside view



T-nut on the outside hidden(blind side) by the Stake Pocket. I still need to counter sink the T-nut so it's flush with wood stake



Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday was spent taking the fenders and running boards off as there is no longer a need for them now that they are fitted and ready for final body work.

This also allowed me to remove the engine side covers to install the louvered vents. I first made a template of the vents and tapped the opening. I used a jig saw to cut out the opening and flat file to clean up the cut.

Lewis.... when you come to get the oil cooler and fan, I'll give you the template if you decided to order the same vents

Next, I used some popsicle sticks for the gap between the side panel and the backside of the vents. Taped them in place both front and back.







Then I removed the vent tabs that will hold the vent in place. I used 40 grit on the fiberglass and the backside of the tab. I drilled three holes in each tab to help with a secure bond (copied Paul's process) and cleaned both surfaces with acetone. I used the 3M epoxy used in earlier posts to set the vent tabs and clamped in place.





Now, I can start the bodywork on the radiator cowl, hood, cab and doors while it's still all mounted on the chassis. Once I get the panel's surfaces matching, I can then remove all the fiberglass from the chassis for final bodywork, primer and paint.

This is bitter sweet for me and it's the first time doing body and paint on one hand and nearing the finish line on the other.

Stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

Over the weekend, I tore down the body off the chassis and I'm now diving headfirst into body prep.

My first focus will be the cab and removing the LizardSkin that didn't stick to the inside of the cab. This time around, I'll grind to clean and scuff the interior fiberglass then wipe down with acetone before reapplying the two LizardSkin products (i.e., Sound and Heat)





I'll also cleanup the wiring





After basic body panel prep for initial filler and flat sanding, I'll start the various primers and final sanding before paint.

I've never done body and paint before, so it's a learning experience for me. I have a lofty goal to be complete with paint and body back on the chassis by end of May, 2024. We have a trip planned for the first week of May.... so, I have approx 7 weeks to meet my goal. Then my next goal will be the truck is complete before we go on our next trip mid to end of June.

Stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

Quick update.

Striping the old, flaking LizardSkin product was easy in some spots and very difficult in others. I ended up using my pressure washers to strip the difficult areas.... worked well. As I was cleaning, I was also thinking about the final finish for the roof of the cab. I decided to add some wood strips (ferring strips) to attach the roof cover to.

I simply ripped 1/2" strips from a 1 x 4 pine board and glued them in place with 3M 5200 polyurethane and weighed the strip down to match the contour of the roof.



I'll then cover the wood ribs masking tape and respray the cab with the two LizardSkind sound and heat products.

More later on all this,

Mark

[mkassab]

After cleaning and scuffing the cab's interior, I changed my mind on the LizardSkin. I had other sound and heat options from other builds I've done. And to be very honest, after my bad experience with LizardSkin peeling off and my plan to glue my interior cover to the side walls.... well, I was very concerned about the interior side cover not staying in place because of my fear LizardSkin would fail over time.

I first cleaned all the interior surfaces again with Acetone. Then proceed with a Dynamat type butyl rubber backed by aluminum foil.



Then I covered most of the foil backed butyl rubber with this product.



This material is about 1/2" thick, heavy dense foam backed by a very sticky adhesive. Both the butyl rubber and foam will be great for sound, vibration and heat.



I also covered the back panels with the foam mats.



Lastly, I cut 1/4" lauan plywood to fit the roof that I'll cover with the diamond padded vinyl for the finish look and a fiber material for the sides. I'll add this after painting. Then I'll set the completed interior cab back on the chassis. It's much easier to do the interior while the cab is off the chassis.



Some of you may be wondering why the gap in front of the plywood. Well, you may recall from earlier posts I made an overhead gauge panel that fit tight to the cab's roof.... so, I had to leave room for the gauge panel to fit

Stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

Since I'm doing my Cab's body work and paint off the chassis, I had to build a frame system for the bottom of the cab to stiffen it up, with the cab to be up off the ground and be able to move it easily by myself.

Came up with the design below



I didn't want to drill holes in the cab's base, so I used fender washers to hold the cab to the wood frame



In the picks below, note the long front to back runners.... they are 30" apart, the same as the moving dolly I have. I simply clamp the dolly to the frame to hold in place while I roll the cab where I want it. Then, I can unclamp it, lift the front of the cab to tilt backwards and simply remove the dolly for a firm cab stance on the ground for sanding, etc.





When I'm done with body and paint, I'll place the cab on my lift's arms to complete the interior while comfortably standing inside the cab. I'll also use the lift to lower the cab back on the chassis.

More to follow,
Mark

[mkassab]

During my body work on the bed side panels, I had to add some "parts". You might recall that I bought from FFR the Stake Pockets option. Well, by installing the pockets you hide the rear mounting area and, thereby, can't access the mounting button head screw. So, my fix was to install a couple rivnuts to each of the rear side panels so I can install the screws from the inside vs the outside.

Since the side panel has pretty thick fiberglass and the upper hole also had the ss wrap, the standard rivnut wouldn't work, i.e., not enough grip area was exposed for proper rivnut expansion..... so, I found this type of rivnut which worked out great.



In the next pic, I bonded the stake pocket to the bed side with 3M's High Strength Repair Filler (HSRF). I scuffed up the bed side and stake pocket mounting surfaces with 40 grit and applied the HSRF to the stake pocket and pressed on the pockets to the bedside. 30 min's later, I was cleaning up the HSRF that squeezed out. I'll show the finished panel later in another post.



More to follow,
Mark