Mark's '35 Truck Build Extended w/Gen 3 Coyote

[mkassab]

A few misc items to update on.... yesterday was a bit of a light day.

First, continuing with the brakes.... I decided to go with a Tilton 3 chamber reservoir for the Front, Rear and Hydraulic Clutch brake fluid. Also, I wanted better brake bias control with a separate WilWood unit vs relying totally on the WilWood built-in pedal box brake bias adjustment. I'll be adding a Hurst Roll Control Solenoid (i.e., brake line lock) to the rear brakes for hill assist with clutch usage (we live in a very hilly area and my wife is a bit worried using the clutch... so this is my solution vs using a automatic transmission and allowing me to have my Tremec 6 speed manual trans).



I also ordered and received an upgrade to the coilover shocks... i.e., needle bearing thrust washer bearings vs using the plastic Delrin single flat washer FF supplied. The needle bearing washer are so much better and makes it much easier to adjust the coilovers under load. The picture below shows the plastic washer (left) and the needle bearing thrust washer (right). Picked them up on Amazon.



Lastly, I'm using an electric emergency / parking brake from E-Stopp. I'll mount this unit above the gas tank. I'll document its installation in the next post.



I'm also swapping out the 3/4" Clutch WilWood master cylinder with a 13/16" Clutch WilWood master cylinder. In reading many posts, this seems the recommended way to go.... HOWEVER, I'm really not sure why??? I'd love to hear from anyone if they have further insight to the reason for the clutch 13/16" master cylinder.

Stay tuned...
Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Another quick update.

I wanted to really focus on the Brake "system" install.... but needed parts prevented that. Those parts should be here by weeks end. However, I did get two brake items installed.

First, The electric emergency brake, E-Stopp. The next few pic shows the install. The main unit I installed upside down above the gas tank. I made and welded some simple mounting tabs:



This next pic shows the "cable" end view:



I mounted the Hurst brake line lock to a rear cross brace. I'll run the brake line from the Wilwood bias control to the brake line lock, then from the line lock to a T block then out from the T block to the left and right rear brakes



I received my front Koni dbl adj coilover shocks Sunday.... so I installed the "lubed" thrust needle bearings and applied Anti-Seize to the alum threads of the shock base.



Lastly, I also received my oil cooler radiator with pull fan unit. I'll also mount it above the fuel tank. In the next post, I'll show more of the entire oil system and how I laid it all out.



Today, I'll continue with the Oil System install.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday, I focused on the oil filtration, Temp control unit and oil cooling system mounting. I also started to make my Stainless Steel PTFE hoses.

First, the layout. The picture below shows the layout I'm implementing... it's an "Earl's" chart, but I'm only using Earl's Thermostat control unit.



I then installed Aeromotive remote oil filter adapter to the driver's side lower firewall. I'll make a hose for output of filtered remote oil filter adapter to the input of the FF supplied remote oil filter Coyote block adapter.



I then mounted the Earl's Oil Thermostat control block to the side rail under the cab. The temperature sensor/wire you see will drive a Dakota Digital Oil Temp gauge in the cab. Earl's Performance oil thermostat will ensure quick warm up under cold weather conditions. This unit will control oil temperature like a thermostat controls water temperature in your cooling system. It's designed for use with engine oil coolers and starts to open at 160 degrees fully open at 180 degrees. The "Output to Engine" port will have an oil line from this port to the input port of the remote oil filter. The "In from Engine" port will come from the "Out" port of the FF oil filter Coyote block adapter.



On the "Output to the Cooler" port of the oil thermostat I added an AN-10 adaptor with a 1/8" npt port where I installed another oil temp sensor.... However, this sensor will connect to a Mishimoto Electric Fan Controller. The purpose of this Fan Controller is to turn on/off the remote oil cooler radiator fan. The Mishimoto Fan controller will allow me to set a temp to turn on/off the cooler fan from a range of 150* to 240* (deg). Therefore, the reason I added this fan control unit is if the oil temp being sent to the cooler radiator is at or below a temp I set, the fan won't turn on since it's not needed.... but if the output oil temp is above the set temp, the fan will turn on. I'm planning a set temp of ~195*.



Here's a pic of the Mishimoto Fan controller. I'll mount it back under the truck's bed... most likely next to the Hurst Brake-Line lock.



I'll continue to make my SS PTFE oil lines and mount the oil cooler radiator unit above the gas tank.

Stay tuned
Thx Mark

[mkassab]

In addition to making all my oil hoses, I fabricated and mounted my Oil Cooler Radiator/fan above the gas tank.

In this picture, I have the mounting tabs cut, tapped and attached to the Oil Radiator shroud. I then used the clamps to hold in place to the frame and now ready to tack weld in place. What I had to consider here was the ability to unscrew and remove the oil radiator in the future if ever needed.



This shot shows the mounting tabs & bar welded in place.



And a shot showing the puller fan under the oil radiator.



Lastly, the Mishimoto Fan controller will be located next to and under the Hurst Brake line lock



Today and tomorrow, I should be receiving more brake line parts to allow me to get this part of the build mockup completed by this weekend. Last night UPS delivered my 13/16" WilWood clutch master cylinder.... so that will get installed today along with the Coyote clutch switch.

Much more coming....

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

My two AN-10 180* fittings for the remote oil filter adapter came in and allowed me to complete the Oil AN-10 lines. So with a total of 5 oil lines, I now have connected the Oil Coyote Block adapter, remote oil filter, Oil Thermostat and the Oil Cooler Radiator. I ordered some AN-10 fittings that will allow me to pressure test my lines for any leaks. This kit consist of two parts... 1) an AN-10 male plug and 2) an AN-10 plug with a standard air valve stem. You just attached the plug on one end of the line, the plug with the valve stem in the other end of the line.... apply air pressure (I'll do 150psi because that's the max of my air compressor) then put the line is water to check for leaks/air bubbles. I'll show that when I receive them.

The top fitting is the "In" from the remote oil filter and the bottom fitting is the "Out" to the Oil Thermostat "In".



During final build, I'll clamp down all the lines. The way I configured them, the Oil Lines are well away from the Exhaust Headers.



The oil line in the rear (closest to the fire wall) comes from the "Out" of the oil thermostat to the "In" of the remote oil filter.... and the oil line to the front is the filtered oil "Out" to the "In" of the engine block adapter.



I received the WilWood clutch master cylinder with the larger bore of 13/16". I swapped it out for the 3/4" one and also installed the Coyote clutch switch and tab on the clutch master cylinder push rod that will depress the switch to tell the ECU the clutch is depressed. I also attached an AN-3 fitting to the mstr cyl to connect the SS braided brake (clutch) line to the hydraulic Tilton clutch slave cylinder. I had to purchase an AN-3 to AN-4 male adapter fitting for the AN-3 line to connect to the "In" line of the slave cylinder... so all set now and completed (except to bleed the line during final assembly.



Lastly, as I start to make my own brake lines using the copper/nickel line that was in a coil, I purchased this brake line straightener. it works great! I just had to hand straighten a little so I could start the "coiled" line in the straightener and that was it.



Today I'll spend most of my time making Brake Lines.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Short update. Yesterday I was completing my Oil, Gas and Brake Lines. A little boring and not picture worthy. I did mount a large Holly 10 micron gas filter. Attached to the gas filter housing is a one way valve for fuel flow. The one way valve came with my gas line kit.... so I stuck it in. I used a couple 1.5" SS T-Hose clamps for the filter.



I'm also installing, by the battery somewhere, this Painless battery switch/solenoid. It will be activated by a "momentary" button switch in the cab.... i.e, one depression will cause a disconnect and the next depression causes a connect. I'll hide this button switch under the dash... kind of a "security" device. Off the "hot side" of the switch, I'll run constant 12v power for devices that always needs power, e.g., radio, clock, etc.



Today, I'll be mount the fuel regulator, radiator overflow, windshield washer canister/pump, horn, etc.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Light day yesterday... Quick update.

I installed the Radiator overflow in the only place it would fit, then the Windshield washer canister and pump combo unit followed by the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. With the Coyote engine, there isn't all that much room!!! So it's a bit crowded to get it all to fit. I had to make a bracket to mount the windshield washer unit to it that will raised it off the firewall about 1" to allow for the fuel lines and AN fittings to the fuel pressure regulator to run behind it. Coming off the fuel pressure regulator is an AN fitting with a 1/8"npt tap in it to allow me to install my fuel pressure regulator sensor for my fuel pressure gauge. Then, off this AN fitting will be another smaller 10 micron fuel filter. From there, I'll have to make my last short fuel line. I ordered a 3/8" quick disconnect to 6AN male fitting that will connect the the Coyote's fuel rail. I'll have that later in the week.



Here's a better shot to show the radiator overflow tank install



On a Side Note: I received my replacement bushing sleeves for the rear lower control arms. The originals were 12mm ID and should have been 14mm ID. I understand recent deliveries of other's kits have had this same issue. So, I removed the 12mm ones only to find out the 14mm replacements are ~1/8" too long. I didn't feel like it yesterday to deal with it.... so that's one of my first tasks this morning.

Also, I'm expecting a FedEx delivery today with most of my MIK/POL backorder items in it. Fingers Crossed!

[mkassab]

OK.... Need some help here.

I started the build of the front radiator assembly.... problem is, the manuals, i.e., both the '35 Truck manual and the FF A/C Install manual does not match at all the current product/parts that FF has designed, manufactured and shipped. So, here's my confusion.

In the pic below, you see I've attached the mounting tabs to the A/C condenser and setting in the grill. All good here.



In the next 2 pics, you see the tabs on the actual radiator have a pretty tall gap.... ~3/4". The 2 hood brackets that goes on the top tabs are 3/16" and the spacers FF supplied are 7/16".... so all good for the top bracket/tab install.

My question is, how do I fill the gap on the bottom tabs? All my spacers are all the same 7/16".... so, not sure how I fill with gap as I don't see anything else to install on the lower/bottom tabs in the manuals. Sure, I can add my own spacers.... but I think I'm missing something here!!!

Any input here most welcome..... HELP.





Once I get this solved, I'm also going to build a fan shroud so the exposed radiator above and below the fan is covered, thereby forcing all the air flow through the radiator when the fan is on vs the fan pulling warm air from the surrounding open area around the fan's diameter. I assume that's been done before by some.... so any input, pictures, or drawings would help me not reinvent the wheel.

Thx Mark

[Pat Landymore]

I purchased one from Replicaparts made for the 33 Hot Rod and modified it slightly to fit the truck. Please see post 466 on my build page.

Cheers!

[mkassab]

I purchased one from Replicaparts made for the 33 Hot Rod and modified it slightly to fit the truck. Please see post 466 on my build page.

Cheers!

Thanks Pat... I just contacted Mike at Replicaparts for my radiator shroud. I may mount mine differently than you did.

Mark

[mkassab]

OK, So far, here's where I'm at. Per the manual, for the truck specifically, the Hood Hinge Bracket clearly sets on top of the condenser/grill top tab (and oriented as shown with the 90* bend facing outward), followed by the 7/16" spacer and then the radiator tab and screwed down..... and it looks like the next two pictures.

This shot is view looking up along the grill/rad and the hood hinge bracket mounted where the manual says to.



This next shot is a top down view of the same assembly as the above pic



However, others, like Don, say the hood hinge bracket should be reversed left and right (i.e., 90* bend facing inward) and the bracket on top of the radiator tab? My concern here is if I move the bracket up (i.e., closer out towards the firewall) the Hood itself would also be pushed toward the firewall/rear of the truck.... Unless, the bracket move out can be adjusted for in another set??

ANY Comments here would really help me.

On page 408 of the truck manual, the pic below is shown and this is exactly how I have setup now.



One last pic showing the bottom tabs where I used the 7/16" spacer and washers to make up the thickness of the bracket. However, If I do end up NOT following the manual and placing the hood hinge bracket on top of the radiator tab, then the washers on the lower tab may not be needed (as I'd still need more than the 7/16" spacers to fill the ~3/4" gap/space between the rad tab and the condenser/grill tab.



Until I can receive concrete info, I'm going to leave my setup as is for now..... as it matches and follows all 3 manuals (Truck manual for a truck radiator and hood hinge bracket setup, the Coyote Engine Manual for the truck and the Coyote A/C manual). As I proceed with the build, in particular the hood and hinge, I'll adj there if needed.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

While having the radiator assembly setting in the chassis (pic below), I decided to start the fabrication of my front bumper. I figured anything I could do to help prevent smashing my front grill and surround is worth it for me... especially since this will be my daily driver. I must give credit to user Sbda4 (Greg's 35 Hot Rod Truck) for the conceptual bumper design.



I first started with 2x2x1/8" angle iron for the front structure



Then focused on the rear structure by cutting the bolt on mounting plate the rear structure will be welded to. So with the removal of these three bolts and the 2 nuts from the front structure, the bumper assembly can be removed.



Then I added the rear structure to the rear mounting plate (above)



Today, I'll fabricate the actual bumper. I'm still making up my mine to use pipe or square tubing. I'm also thinking of adding some triangulation support from the front to the rear structure (e.g., attach some support metal to the lower part of the front structure to the upper part of the rear structure.... may be an overkill, but what the heck?)

Tune in tomorrow to see what I came up with.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday, as shown above, I had the base sub-assembly pretty much completed and was able to complete the actual bumper layout. I ended up using 1.25" sq tubing. I didn't go with round tubing since I didn't have a tubing bender and felt the square tubing made better angle cuts and cleanup. I first put a piece of cardboard under the nose of the radiator/grill assembly and made a trace of the nose. I cut 1.25" wide strips of paper, to act as the steel sq tubing, to layout on the cardboard trace to determine what I liked best. I then cut the strips of paper and used them as templates to layout on the sq tubing to make my cuts.

Below is the results of the cuts and laid out on my welding table. I first use a Sharpie to mark my welding table with the correct inside width and a centerline and position for the angle cuts. Once laid out, I then C-clamped the pieces to the table.



Once I tacked welded, I made a test fit to the chassis



This shot shows the test fit from the front. For me, it will provide the "warning" before I scrap the noise on a curb, etc.



After I was satisfied with the position, I tacked welded the bumper to the subframe I made. After the tack welds, I removed the 3 nut/bolts from the rear mount plate and the 2 control arm bushing nuts and the entire bumper assembly was easily removed for final welding. Take note I added my 3/4" angle iron bracing from the lower front section to the upper rear section.



Once welded, I then broke out the heavy duty grinder to make the welds disappear and look like one solid bumper. I'll clean and acid etch the assembly and get it painted with acid etching primer. I'll end up using flat black on the bumper assembly to help make it less visible. Using paint vs powder coating will allow for easy touchup when (not if) I bump into something.



I'm still not sure what's on the agenda today? So, you can be a little surprised tomorrow when I report out and update tomorrow. One item I'm thinking about is moving the radiator overflow tank to the left side of the radiator.... I saw on Walace18's build that's what he did and one less thing on the firewall.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

As usual, the current '35 Truck manual doesn't match the current design and build of the truck. Case in point is the picture below from the manual. I'm installing the bed/cab panel on the frame and where the cab will set on the panel. The issue is, since the extended truck was offered, the current design/frame doesn't match the picture. The panel is about 1" too long on each side See pic 2 below.

Pic from manual... the "green" part is the panel I'm referencing.



The pic below shows the actual panel laying on the bed and how it's too long and needs to be cut.



This is an inside the cab pic showing the panel lip bent up to "hug" the inside of the cab back section



The cab fiberglass that hangs out the back and sides of the cab is about 3". The top needs to be cut back to where there's about 3/8" left and the sides needs to be about 1.5" remaining vs the 3". I used my multi-tool to cut the fiberglass. It worked great and had minimal dust from the cuts. I also used this tool to cut the rear valance.



Lastly, to hold it all together, I used clamps and ratchet strraps for fitting before I start drilling holes. Can't tell you how many times I took measurements... quadruple checks!



Stay tuned,

Mark

[mkassab]

Now that I have the truck's bed "mostly" installed.... I needed to see the ride height to determine the rear exhaust options and ready to install the air bag mounts. To do this, I had to mount the wheels/tires to the chassis. I still need to fiddle with the coil over height adjustments, but this is close enough for what I needed.

I don't have any wheel spacers yet.... so this exercise allowed me to determine what I needed for the wheel offset/backspacing I have. I didn't need any spacers for me to mount the rear wheels. For the rear's, the measurement from the bed side to the outside of the tire was 12.5". Measuring the fender, it allows for 13.5" However, for the fronts, for the wheels to clear the calipers, I had to put 1/2" worth of washers on each lug stud. So, I ended up ordering 3/4" wheel spacers for the front and rear.





And the rear close up.



Today will have me focus on the exhaust and air bag mounts. I also need to determine if I can install a hitch receiver.

Stay Tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

I spent more time on the exhaust than planned. Lots of cutting, test fitting, etc. I was able to get the exhaust out the rear as planned. With the diff/axels at their lowest point, I was able to go up and over the axels and under the Panhard bar. I ended up with a lot of room for axel/suspension upward movement. Everything is tack welded. I have two exhaust hangers installed and had to order two more to complete the job today (if the delivery shows up earlier enough).

This first pic is at the mufflers looking to the rear



The next pic is a closeup of the driver's side loop up over the axel



Here's another angle showing the passenger side



Lastly, the exhaust tips I chose coming out the back under the rear valance.



Today, I want to try to start the air bag mounting, but also need to level-up the bed sides and add more mounting bolts.

More to come,

Mark

[mkassab]

I had a few PMs asking about the "ring" looking objects on my exhaust pipes about 12" from the exhaust tips... i.e., what are they?

So, I thought I'd answer here for all. They are Mishimoto V-Band Clamps MMCLAMP-VS-25 purchased from Summit Racing. See pic below. The purpose is a quick disconnect at the V-Band. I had to installed them there to allow me to remove the exhaust later if needed vs cutting the exhaust pipes. I've used in the past and they work great with no leaks and no rust since they are Stainless Steel with a precision ring fit.

So my exhaust system is basically four sections.... 1) headers, 2) mid-section (H-Pipe/resonators), 3) rear-section (mufflers/loop tail pipe) and 4) exhaust tips.



Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday, I spent fabricating and installing the AirLift Air Bag/Springs. As you might recall in earlier posts, I had to wait to do this until I had the weight on the wheels and the truck bed on to determine where I had room to install them and not cause any interference. Now that those two conditions were met, I proceeded with the install. I bought some basic air bag/spring universal mounting kit and using scrap steel laying around the shop, I was able to complete the install.

First, I laid out on the axel some tape and marked the mounting points (so I can grind off the powder coat for welding the base plates) and I marked where the inter lip of the bed side was. A key point during the fabrication process was keeping in mind I had to be able to remove the air bags for any servicing/replacement and thereby, need access to the lower and upper mounting bolts. Since I didn't have a full weight load on the bed of the truck, I slightly compress the air spring without the top mounting plate to set the 2" angle iron against the bed frame and clamped into place to tack weld it.





This next picture shows the mounting plate setting on the axel with two 1" square tubes to raise the air spring off the plate to allow access to the two lower mounting bolts. On top of the sq tubing is the air spring base plate. When I complete all this, these three parts will all be welded together and to the axel.



After tack welding the top 2" angle iron to the frame, I compressed the air spring a little more to slip in the top mounting plate under the angle iron and tack welded it.



Since the upward forces could be pretty high, I added additional support framing to brace the top place. I used more 1" sq tubing and some 3/4" angle iron. Any upward force would then transfer through the 3/4" angle iron and the 2" angle iron to the truck's frame.



When I take everything apart to finish the frame painting, I finish welding all this add-on bracing.

I'm getting close to the point where I'll tear down all the installed items off the frame and then prep/paint the frame. To help me do this, I bought an additional engine mounting stand. I'll use the two engine stands, one attached to the front of the frame and one attached to the rear of the frame, for a makeshift rotisserie that will allow me to rotate the frame and make it a lot easier on me.

Stay tuned... much more to come.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Well, the disassembly of all the parts I've installed to date has begun. I believe I've completed all the fabrication/welding on the frame (i.e., hopefully I didn't forget anything!). If I did forget or overlooked something, I can always still weld, but would have some cleanup and repainting if needed. I can always try bolts/screws/rivets vs welding if it doesn't compromise quality or safety. What the disassembly did prove to me was I could take all this apart vary easily.... the picture below shows a lot has been removed from the frame and I only spent a few hours doing it myself, including the engine/trans removal. The only thing left to remove is the front suspension, cab and firewall. I know you can see the rear tires in the pic below, but if you look carefully, the rear-end/tires are off the ground and free of the frame (i.e., 3 point linkage a shocks disconnected) and the rear-end assembly sitting on jack stands.



My goal today is completing the disassembly and any remaining parts from the frame (including the cab) and the frame mounted to the two engine stands. This will allow me to finish all the welding followed by cleaning the frame, priming and paint. Once paint is done and cured well, I'll start putting it back together again.

Not looking forward to the above work, but getting it done will be a big milestone.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday was spent completing dismantling of the truck frame of anything attached to it. I do, however, still have to pop out the steering column and the gas tank.



With the Cab sitting on its top (I can Lizard Skin it while it's off with both the heat and sound treatment products)



Here's a shot of the frame now installed on the two engine stands.



And here with it rotated a bit. I can get pretty much a full 90* but then the rear part of the frame hits the support arm/legs of the engine stands. Today, I'll try to offset the attachment point of the rear stand to the frame so I can rotate a full 180* (fingers crossed)



I did get all the welding completed.... so over the next few days, I'll focus on cleaning the frame, i.e., grinding/sanding (to clean up some welds and removal of any weld splatter and metal scale/rust), POR15 Metal Cleaner, POR15 Metal Prep (acid wash), primed and painted.

Next week may be a little light on updates.... I'll let the paint cure a bit over several days and our two grandsons from Florida are flying in to spend a few days with us..... so I'll be playing "Grandpa".

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Not much to report on, except I did move the rear engine stand mounting point on the frame over ~5" from center..... this allows clearance for the truck's frame to clear the engine stand crossarm/leg. At this angle, the frame bottom will be very easy to work on, drill the holes for the bottom aluminum skin, etc.



The roll bar hitting the floor prevents full rotation. Also, to hold the rotation point, I had to rachet strap the roll bar to the lift's arm.



That's it for today. Cleaning and prep continue.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday, I spent washing the frame with POR15 Metal Cleaner followed by POR15 Metal Prep Acid wash. Then, this morning, I redid the POR15 Metal Prep, kept it wet with the POR15 Metal prep to let the acid do it's thing for a good 20 to 30 minutes and them power washed it to rinse clean per the instructions. Once fully dried, and I'll also use compressed air to dry in all the nocks and crannies, I'll apply the POR15 Metal Rust Preventative, followed my UPOL #8 Acid primer then final paint.

I know everyone like pictures.... so here's a few.







My goal is to get two light coats of POR15 Metal Rust Preventative on today followed by a few light coats of primer. Then finish coats tomorrow.

Stay Tuned, Mark

[mkassab]

So far, I have the frame coated with POR15 Metal Rust Preventative and coated with UPOL #8 Acid Primer. Later today, I'll get a coat of paint on it. The roll bar will be a different color vs the rest of the remaining frame. But a few pics of the frame with the primer on it. It's a satin black primer that looks pretty good.





close-up of roll bar



Thx Mark

[mkassab]

I completed the frame painting using a rattle can over the POR15 and Primer. The color is Charcoal Metallic. It came out better than I thought for a rattle can. But like I've always said, I'm not building a show truck, but a daily driver.

Here's two pictures



Close-Up



I'll let it cure a few days now while on the engine stands before putting it back on the lift and starting the build. Perfect timing with the grandkids coming Sunday for the week.... however, I may be able to "sneak" some time in for the build? I do still have to clean-up the diff/rear-end and paint the Air Spring bases I welded on the axel tubes. Also, I have to paint the bumper I made, so I do have a few odds and ends to complete while the paint cures.... Not to mention the garage cleaning after all the paint dust on the floor.

Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday was a sunny day and since I had to clean the garage and put away some tools & get better organized, I set the frame out in the Sun to help the curing process. The frame's paint looked even better in the Sun, so I thought I'd post a couple of pictures.





While the paint continues to cure and still on the engine stands, I can rotate the frame that allows for good access to the underside to install the lower floor pan aluminum skins. So that's my goal for today.

Mark

[mkassab]

I had a grand vision to get a lot done yesterday.... but events dictated otherwise. I did get the shop cleaned up a bit. I finished the welding and painting of the Air Spring based on the rear-end axel tubes.



I acid washed the front bumper I made with POR15 Metal Prep, primed with UPOL #8 acid primer and painted Flat Black.



I then started the drilling and mounting of the aluminum skin on the bottom of the frame. It's all drill and ready to go. Once I get the top skin drilled, I'll then apply bead of 3M Marine 5200 adhesive/sealer between the bottom skin and the frame and pop rivet in place. Followed by rolling the frame back to level and inserting the insulative panels with 5200 spread on both sides followed by the top skin sealed and riveted in place.



So, as stated above, today's focus will be completing the floor panels and insulative panels. If time permits, I'll get some other minor items installed while on the engine stands, e.g., rear oil cooler/fan, E-Stopp emergency brake, etc. I'm still waiting for my plastic gas tank cover from F5 from my MIK list.... so that's preventing me installing the tank. I also have to determine what I'm doing with the firewall panels... paint or clear coat, or what?

Stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

Completing the floor.... here's what I did.

Bottom aluminum panels.... I drilled 1/8" holes every 2" for the bottom and then used the panels to act as a template to drill the frame. I did 2" spacing for the extra strength and water sealing qualities. Once all drilled, I removed the panels, cleaned them and the frame bottom... followed by applying 3M 5200 adhesive. I placed a pop-rivet in each hole first before any use of the pop-rivet gun. I have several Milwaukee battery tools already, so I picked up two additional tools only (no extra batteries or chargers), i.e., Pop-rivet tool and their Caulk gun. What wonderful time savers!!!



With the bottom panels completely installed, I'm able to rotate the frame to start the installation of the insulative rigid foam panels



This next pic shows the foam panels installed and me applying 3M 5200 to install the top aluminum panels using the same process I used to do the bottom panels (except, I place the rivets every 3" per the manual). Again, using the Milwaukee caulk gun was a huge time saver. The gun has settings for speed of the caulk coming out and auto backup of the plunger after you release the trigger.



Lastly, the top panels are completely installed.



A couple of side notes. You may have noticed two different colors of the 3M 5200. I had several tubes of a Mahogany color before I started using the white. Also, I plan to apply seam sealer on the bottom edges of the panels and over each pop-rivet as additional water sealer. I'll also coat the bottom panel with an undercoating of some sort.... I'm thinking of using some truck bed coating on the underside panels. I'll do this while the frame is on the engine stands for ease (on me) of applying the seam sealer and panel coatings. Once this step is completed, I can remove the engine stands and put the truck back on the lift.

I'll be selling the two engine stands and the two tall jack stands used to complete the exhaust since I have no use for them any longer and they take up too much room to store if I don't intend to use them again.

Grandsons coming tonight.... so updates may be limited over the next few days.

Stay tuned..... Mark

[Pat Landymore]

I really like your use of two engine stands. 👍🏼

Wish I’d had the same thought while building my ‘35 and would highly recommend what you did to anyone building an FFR that doesn’t have access to a lift etc.

I finally got smart last year and did the same type of home built rotisserie for my latest Foxbody Mustang project. Same issue you had…couldn’t totally invert the bare body but it was a total game changer for me.

Congrats on the great progress with your build.

Cheers
Pat

[mkassab]

I really like your use of two engine stands. ����

Wish I’d had the same thought while building my ‘35 and would highly recommend what you did to anyone building an FFR that doesn’t have access to a lift etc.

I finally got smart last year and did the same type of home built rotisserie for my latest Foxbody Mustang project. Same issue you had…couldn’t totally invert the bare body but it was a total game changer for me.

Congrats on the great progress with your build.

Cheers
Pat

Thanks Pat

Mark

[mkassab]

Good day yesterday. I finished the underside seam sealer and truck bed undercoating. That allowed me to remove the two engine stands from the frame and the frame is now back on the lift and ready to reinstall all the parts I took off it.

First, I cleaned, scuff padded and sanded the bottom aluminum skin before applying the seam sealer and undercoating. I seamed sealed all seams top and bottom (including the FF welded in sheet metal bottom floor pans) and the bottom pop-rivets caps.



And the rear sheet metal pans



For the top skins, I seamed sealed the center seam and the outside left & right including the large cutouts for the frame welds



Lastly, I mixed the 2 part epoxy truck bed liner (U-POL Raptor bed liner product) used for the undercoating and put on two thick layers to get to the correct mil thickness. Not only will this protect the bottom from any corrosion, but also help with sound and heat. Later in the build, I'll apply Lizard Skin sound and heat to the inside of the cab (i.e., floor, firewall, doors, rear of cab and the cab itself). I'll also add a layer of other sound/heat sheet material (butyl rubber and aluminum stuff).



Today.... start reinstalling the suspension, etc.

Mark

[mkassab]

With the grandkids here, I've had limited time to work the truck build... but they do sleep in and I get out a couple hours each morning..... Today, they fly back home to Florida.

I have the rear-end, 3 point linkage and shocks reinstalled, the entire front suspension reinstalled and starting the firewall. I cleaned, scuffed, primed and painted the aluminum firewall a bright silver (pic below). I'm working the engine bay while the engine is out for easy access to installed "stuff", e.g, brake lines, brake rear bias control, etc.



So, a lot more to share coming soon.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Good day yesterday.

First up, I ordered a raw steel steering column with my '35 truck order and my intension was to paint it the same color of my wheels and the body beltline. However, the raw steel had a nice brush finish to it.... so I just used a red 3M scotch pad to freshen it up and cleaned with acetone. I used VHT ceramic disc brake clear gloss to brighten it up and seal the steel to protect from corrosion. It came out great.



On the firewall side, I have the WilWood brake bias installed and plumbed to the master cylinders. I also completed the plumbing of the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinders. For both the brake lines and brake fluid lines through the firewall I used 3AN bulkhead fittings for the brake lines and 5/16" barb bulkhead fittings for the brake fluid reservoir connections vs just drilling holes and running the hoses through the firewall holes. You'll also take notice I made some brake/master cylinder bleed lines from the output of the brake bias unit back to the brake fluid reservoir. I used the steel lines FF supplied for this purpose. This way, when I "bench" bleed the master cylinders I'll also be bleeding the brake lines and brake bias at the same time. I'll also run a line from the clutch master cylinder to the reservoir. When I get the trans/engine back into the chassis, I'll run a line from the clutch slave cylinder throw-out bearing to the reservoir to bleed the slave cylinder.



The next 3 pictures are the brake pedal/master cylinders setup/plumbing. It was much easier doing all this with the cab off the frame. I was able to connect and tighten everything with ease and also ensure no hose was near or rubbing any moving part. I used zip-ties to keep things tight.



Top view showing a little more detail



Bottom view showing pedals and hoses



Today, I'll connect the oil cooler, oil thermostat, remote oil filter to be ready for the engine install. I'll also connect the lower firewall panels to the top aluminum floor panel with 3/16" pop-rivets and then seam seal them. The steering column will be installed along with other misc items. I need to make a clutch pedal adjustable stop while I have easy access to this area.

More to follow,
Mark

[mkassab]

Quick update.

I fastened both the left and right sides floor pans to the lower firewall sections with Five each side 3/16" pop-rivets. I clamped them together then drilled for a good firm tight fit.



I then Seam Sealed both the tops and bottoms. While I had the seam seal out, I also applied seam seal on the inside of the firewall around the frame holes (that go through the firewalls) and the sq tube area on each side of the floor pan/fire wall panels. Obviously, my goal, when the cab is 100% complete, is to have an Air and Water tight sealed compartment.



Lastly, for my Clutch Pedal stop (that's adjustable in/out) I chose the spot just behind the clutch pedal and below the frame cross member. I would have liked to drill and tap the cross member, but my FF serial number is there. It's a very simple setup... i.e., 3/8" x 2.5" socket head with a jam nut/washer on the inside of the firewall and a nylon-lock nut/washer on the outside. Since my Hydraulic Clutch Slave cylinder can only be extended to a certain point, this pedal stop is required. Also, notice my serial number.... after I POR-15'd and painted the frame, I sanded the area where the serial number is and then clear coated that area. Therefore, this area is protected from rust and the serial number is highlighted for easy viewing.



Stay Tuned
Mark

[mkassab]

I made a lot of misc odds & ends progress yesterday... most of which isn't "Post" worthy. But I did want to share two items that may help others with ideas towards their builds.

First up, with my Oil System (i.e., 5 hoses, remote oil filter, oil thermostat and oil cooler/fan) all connected, less the two engine in/out connections, I proceeded to pressure test the system for any leaks. I bought these two AN10 plugs (with one of the plugs having an air valve stem installed). The Plug goes in one of the two hose fittings and the Air Plug in the other. I put 80 psi in the system and I checked the air pressure several times over several hours to make sure is was holding. I'm happy to say, it passed the test. I'll do the same with the fuel lines and gas filters when it comes time.

Picture of the two plugs installed



Second up, I made a paper template of the bed frame. The reason I did this is to help be determine the mounting points of the stainless steel bed provided in the FF kit and the aftermarket BedWood system I'm installing. My plan is to install the ss bed sheet is such a way I can easily remove it in case I have to get access to the oil cooler/fan, gas tank senders, E-Stopp emergency brake, etc. I'll need to determine the ss bed sheet mounting points to the frame.... I'll do this by laying the paper template on top of the ss bed sheet and taping it down in place. Then, I'll lay out the BedWood frame on top of the paper to transfer the mounting points to the paper. I want the BedWood system to be mounted firmly, but also easily removeable. I'll document all that later in this build thread. I also plan to have the gas filler mounted on the right rear fender vs the bed floor. FYI.... I did received my BedWood system two weeks ago. It took about 6 weeks to receive after I ordered it. And because our truck beds aren't a standard size, it had to be custom built. I ended up ordering the Black Walnut wood with polished SS ribs/hardware and I also ordered some extra Black Walnut for 4 posts and bed rails (I still need to determine how to mount the posts to the bed side walls). I also ordered my wood unfinished as I plan to apply 2K auto grade gloss clear coat to the wood. Using 2K auto clear provides the best protection to the wood with it's UV protection in the clear. It also makes it easy to sand and buff to get the best polish shine just like it would on the truck's body. I'll just use the same polish/synthetic ceramic coatings on the wood that I use on the truck's paint. The Black Walnut should go very well with the pastel light green I'm painting the truck.



More to follow, so stay tuned and subscribe to this thread if you haven't already subscribed.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

I received my 3/4" front and rear wheel spacers. While installing them, I first had to determine how much length to cut off the stock lug bolts.... in my case, I had to cut ~5/8" using my angle grinder cut off wheel. I then installed all four and torqued each lug nut to 90 ft lbs.



The next job took me several hours.... I finished my brakes.

I first "bench bled" the three master cylinders as I outlined above in a recent previous post. Then I installed all the brake lines I made earlier. I still had to make the front right and left brake lines, which I did. Once all brake lines were installed at a four corners and the two front line and the single rear line were setting loose/unconnected at the WilWood brake bias unit, I was ready to disconnect the brake bleed lines I made from the brake bias unit one at a time (Note: this is the messy part, i.e., once you disconnect a brake bleed line, gravity kicks in and the brake fluid starts to run out of the brake bias unit). So, with rags at hand and a small catch can, I first removed the rear bleed line to connect the "waiting" rear brake line. Trying to be quick, with very slippery brake fluid all over my fingers, I got the rear line connector threads started and tighten. I then proceeded to the first front brake line followed by the other front brake line.



Rear brake line junction... i.e., the main brake line runs to the Brake Line Lock, then to a T-fitting, and then to the left and right brake calipers.
(Note: the two ss braided hoses you see are the oil cooler in/out lines to/from the oil thermostat)



From this point, I bleed the brake lines at all four corners, starting with the right rear (longest run from the master cylinder), then to the left rear caliper. Followed by the front right then the front left. I'll bleed again before my first drive.

Check in tomorrow for todays activities.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Big bummer today.... I got the engine/trans back in the chassis. Went to install the drive shaft for the first time and BAM... Screenshot 2023-06-13 130445.jpg the fricken thing is too long.

I sent this note to Madison and Dan G at FF:

Hi Madison and Dan,

I finally got to the stage to install my drive shift.

BTW, here's the link to my truck build thread on the ff forum:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...w-Gen-3-Coyote

Ref the two attached pictures.... pic 1 (2223) shows the drive shift yoke bottomed out in the trans and pic 2 (2224) shows the rear-end diff end being ~1.5" too long. Given the yoke wouldn't be bottomed out against the transmission for the final install.... so that would make the drive shift about ~2.5"+ too long.

When I measured the center of the front universal joint cap to the center of the rear universal joint cap on the drive shaft it measured ~39.5". I'm thinking it should be about ~37" center to center u-joint cap?

Again, ref my order, I have the Gen 3 Coyote eng, Quicktime Bell housing and the Tremec 6-speed Magnum transmission model #11010

IMG_2223.jpg

IMG_2224.jpg

I'll update once I hear from FF

Mark

[mkassab]

A major milestone was passed yesterday.... the Coyote Engine and Tremec Magnum 6-spd trans back in the chassis and installed. As I mentioned in the above post, the drive shaft shipped with my kit was too long and I'm waiting on FF's response. I did get the Clutch master cylinder connected to the Tilton Hydraulic throw-out bearing and bled. While doing this process, I also set my Clutch pedal stop and confirmed the Coyote clutch switch (that came with the Ford Performance ECU kit/harness) is engaged with the clutch pedal is depressed.

This first pic shows the engine smoothly gliding back in place. This is really a easy step for one person (i.e., me) to do. The engine hoist with the engine tilt device makes easy work of it all. I use a ratchet strap on the tail of the transmission to help guide and keep the trans/engine straight.



Here's a shot of the back of the engine and the wire harness neatly tucked away within the various engine components. I zipped tied them in place as you see it.



And this last picture shows the clearance between the firewall and the engine..... It's a good 1" of space.



I plan on this being the final install, i.e., I'm not removing the engine / trans again.... at least that's the plan.

Today.... I'll focus on connecting the steering components, power steering drive, oil lines to the engine, fuel pressure regulator and fuel line to the engine, Headers/exhaust installed, Headers wrapped with heat tape, etc. Once the exhaust is installed, I can finish the rear-end install with the Panhard Bar and Air Bags. I can't install the gas tank yet as I'm still waiting on a backordered gas tank bottom cover from FF. With any luck, I'll have the tank cover in a couple weeks.... or it could be a couple months according to Madison at FF.

As I write these posts, I realize just how much more I have to do... e.g., A/C System & hoses, electrical, Heater hoses, radiator/hoses/coolant, etc. All good stuff.

Later,
Mark

[mkassab]

While installing the steering U-Joints I had an issue with the joint that connects to the steering shaft coming through the firewall. The shaft coming through the firewall, has a bearing that's housed in an out and inter bearing flange cover. The flange cover on the outside firewall was interfering with the U-Joint jam nut. So I marked the flange cover where the jam nut would hit, took it apart and ground the flange enough to eliminate the interference (see pic below).



Here's the completed steering shaft installed with the modified flange (sorry it's rotated 90* counter clockwise.... but you can see the mod).



Next, I started the Header install prep by wrapping them with DEI Engineering Titanium 2" Exhaust Heat Tape Wrap. This product can handle heat up to 1800 degs, can help reduce heat in the engine bay and by retaining the exhaust heat in the headers/exhaust, will help engine performance. Also, this product doesn't require soaking in water like competitors fiberglass products.

This pic is the back side of the left header wrapped in it's raw color.



Here's the front outside of the left header.



Lastly, a top view by the header flange showing the ss zip-ties.



I then coated the wrap with a DEI Silicone Hi-Temp spray product that helps seal the header wrap and adds an aluminum color to the wrap.... I'll show all that in tomorrows update as it needs two coats and the last coat will go on today.

Stay tuned,
Thx Mark

[mkassab]

As I mentioned in the last post, I coated the header wrap with a DEI Silicon Heat/sealer product.... this is it.



In preparation for the header install, I added a ss washer to each Stage 8 Header bolt, coated each bolt with anti-seize. For those not familiar with Stage 8 I'd suggest a quick Google. Bottomline, Stage 8 offers different types of locking devices, i.e., once a bolt is installed and torqued, you add a locking tab to the bolts end that prevents it from backing out/loosening. Great product as I've used them for every build I've ever done.



I installed the left (drivers) side header first. No problems as it slipped in easily from under the frame and up to the install position. The headers in the pictures are all coated with the DEI Silicon product. I was able to get my torque wrench on 6 of the 8 bolts using various methods, e.g., straights socket, swivel head socket, crows foot. The other two with a combination of allen wrench ball head (i.e., each Stage 8 bolt head is a 7/16" and a 5/32" hex head) and/or various wrenches. I had to do my best by hand to torque as the torque wrench wasn't an option. The wrap thickness didn't help matters at all.



Next was the right (passenger) side header. Well, the wrap thickness prevented the header from slipping in..... so, I had to remove the engine mounts on both sides and jack up the engine using my floor jack to lift the engine up about 1.5" to get the header in. I placed a piece of 3/4" plywood on the bottom of the oil pan to spread out the load. It was a lot of extra time consuming work, but it all worked out. Also note the top engine mount bolt.... for extra clearance with the header pipe, I ground down the bolt head by 50%.



To finish out my day, I ran and installed the emergency brake cables to the E-Stopp electronic emergency brake unit and connected the cable ends to the connection block with set screws. I also add a cable clamp for an extra secure connection.



Today, the rear section of the exhaust still needs final welding. Then the exhaust will get installed, along with ???? (haven't made my mind up yet).

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

I finished welding up my exhaust system and now have it all installed. At each joint where two parts meet, I used Permatex Ultra Copper infused RTV High Heat Silicone.... i.e., This Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone adhesive is designed to provide a waterproof, flexible, weather-resistant seal around metal. It's designed for temperatures of up to 700 degrees F. It's just one more step to help ensure a sealed, no leak, exhaust system. I lightly tighten the nuts/bolts.... let the silicon set for a day and then tighten all the way. This helps preventing a lot of Silicon from squeezing out of the joints.

I provided a few pics of all the exhaust pipe/muffler insulation to help further reduce heat/noise from entering the cab to supplement the header wrap. I applied the foil backed fiberglass insulation from the header collector back and over the mufflers under the truck bed.







I suspect many of you will think this is an overkill, and it may be, but this truck is intended to be my daily driver, not a show car, and I want as much sound/heat insulation as possible.

Today, while under the truck, I'll fasten the brake lines, oil lines, etc with line clips. And even though I can't install my gas tank yet, since I'm still waiting for the bottom gas tank cover from FF, I'll run the gas lines (fuel supply and the return line) from the engine back to the tank and get them clipped in place. I guess while I'm at it, I'll run the battery cables also.

Stay tuned.... more to come,
Mark