Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  2
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Wiring sanity check: Coyote with vintage gauges

  1. #1
    Senior Member mmklaxer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kennebunk, ME
    Posts
    292
    Post Thanks / Like

    Wiring sanity check: Coyote with vintage gauges

    I'm getting a little more comfortable with the wiring scheme. Looking for two relatively easy confirmations:

    This coil of wires is in the Chassis harness. The blue and orange go to the Coyote green and blue wires that are part of the green wire 6-plug. I'm good there.

    Confirmation #1: The purple tach wire is the one that runs to the #4 cylinder. The instructions read that the purple wire is in the sending unit harness, but it's not. I'm assuming they mean to run the purple wire from the chassis harness forward into the engine bay within the sending unit harness to keep it clean, then it exits the convolute at the #4 cylinder while the rest of the sending unit harness goes forward to the appropriate sensors.

    Confirmation #2: The two speed sensor wires would be the ones that connect to the transmission speedometer geared unit if necessary. Since I have the GPS vintage gauges, I don't need that speedometer sending unit. Can I just eliminate these two wires? I don't see them referenced anywhere.

    IMG_2610.jpg

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    facultyofmusic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    651
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yessir that's correct. As for the speedo sending unit harness, instead of removing them I repurposed them for components I wanted to talk to in the trans tunnel, e.g. my reverse lockout solenoid.
    Mk4 Roadster: Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, T56 Magnum. Build thread here.

  3. Thanks mmklaxer thanked for this post
    Likes toadster liked this post
  4. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,590
    Post Thanks / Like
    As already stated, both your statements are correct. Two additional comments. First, there's nothing magic about using #4 for the tach. You can use the trigger wire from any cylinder. Doesn't matter. Use the one that routes the wires the way you want them. Second, don't forget to program your tach per the Speedhut instructions. For this setup you'll use the 1/2 Pulses / rev. setting. Which is not the factory default. I've seen many (maybe not you ) forget this step and their tach doesn't read correctly.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. Thanks toadster thanked for this post
  6. #4
    Senior Member mmklaxer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kennebunk, ME
    Posts
    292
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    As already stated, both your statements are correct. Two additional comments. First, there's nothing magic about using #4 for the tach. You can use the trigger wire from any cylinder. Doesn't matter. Use the one that routes the wires the way you want them. Second, don't forget to program your tach per the Speedhut instructions. For this setup you'll use the 1/2 Pulses / rev. setting. Which is not the factory default. I've seen many (maybe not you ) forget this step and their tach doesn't read correctly.
    Oh, there's a very good chance I would fall into that category....LOL!

    Thanks for the heads up!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

FFMetal

Visit our community sponsor