top or bottom holes?

[Just 1 More]

Reading the manual, and wondering if you guys have played around with the different mounting locations and what your results were. Is it best to do as the manual says or have you found something better?
Screenshot 2022-12-23 143641.jpgScreenshot 2022-12-23 143618.jpg

[peterh226]

Reading the manual, and wondering if you guys have played around with the different mounting locations and what your results were. Is it best to do as the manual says or have you found something better?
Screenshot 2022-12-23 143641.jpgScreenshot 2022-12-23 143618.jpg

What version of the Manual do you have? Mine does not even show the options for mounting at the front and I've spent a lot of time fighting them and call with FFR. I also needed to get new end link for the lower control arms that moved the bolt out from contacting the frame like yours appears to be.
The Steering rack instructions (your image) are not in anything that I have.

[Just 1 More]

What version of the Manual do you have? Mine does not even show the options for mounting at the front and I've spent a lot of time fighting them and call with FFR. I also needed to get new end link for the lower control arms that moved the bolt out from contacting the frame like yours appears to be.
The Steering rack instructions (your image) are not in anything that I have.

Rev 3G January 2020

Screenshot 2022-12-23 153904.jpg

[peterh226]

Rev 3G January 2020

Screenshot 2022-12-23 153904.jpg

I need to get a copy of that PDF I guess.

[Mastertech5]

Download the electronic version. It will be the latest version. My manual instructs you to put the rear LCA bolts in upside down to clear the frame when suspension hangs with the lower holes. If you want it low and sleak and occasionally scrape your exhaust use the upper holes. The truck and full fender Hot Rods use the lower holes and anyone that would rather have a little more ground clearance, like me. The steering rack needs to be in the same set of holes that you choose to use for your suspension and shocks. All should be upper or lower. If you chose lower to get more ride height and cut the top hole off on the LR lower mounting tab for rack clearance, there's no going back.

[Just 1 More]

Download the electronic version. It will be the latest version. My manual instructs you to put the rear LCA bolts in upside down to clear the frame when suspension hangs with the lower holes. If you want it low and sleak and occasionally scrape your exhaust use the upper holes. The truck and full fender Hot Rods use the lower holes and anyone that would rather have a little more ground clearance, like me. The steering rack needs to be in the same set of holes that you choose to use for your suspension and shocks. All should be upper or lower. If you chose lower to get more ride height and cut the top hole off on the LR lower mounting tab for rack clearance, there's no going back.

So really the only difference is about an inch of ride height. It'd be nice to find a way to use the lower holes and not have to cut the bracket

[Mastertech5]

When you move the rack down to the lower holes it hits that one bracket so you have to cut it down about 1/2". The manual warns you not to use the upper holes for the rack and the lower ones for the suspension. Bump steer would occur I would think.

[JimLev]

If your using full fenders and running boards, the outside edges of the running boards are a good inch lower than the frame.
I have Gen 1 so my only option was to use the coilovers to raise the ride height so the rb’s don’t scrap going over the berm at the end of the driveway and speed bumps.

[peterh226]

I'm running full fenders and the extra ride height helps. The version of the manual I had with delivery (Rev 3B) did not have this information in it. The update to the drawing was not recorded as a revision change when incorporated into a newer revision of the manual (sometime at or before Rev 3G).
Something more to tinker with.

[peterh226]

I continue to have problems with binding when I attempt to use the lower mounting holes for the rack. I'm about ready to move the rack up again. Any comments???

[Mastertech5]

I continue to have problems with binding when I attempt to use the lower mounting holes for the rack. I'm about ready to move the rack up again. Any comments???

The holes you use should all be the same, all upper or all lower for your steering and suspension.

[peterh226]

The holes you use should all be the same, all upper or all lower for your steering and suspension.

That’s what I did but can’t get rid of the binding.

[Mastertech5]

What's binding the steering shafts? If one of the shafts is in a joint too far it will lessen the angle it can go to before it
will bind. When you move the rack it will change the angle of the lower joints. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you look to see if one of the shafts ends is rubbing in a joint or the rack pinion splined shaft. The shafts should not extend beyond the opening you can see into.

[peterh226]

I believe I have found the source of the binding.
With the rack in the lower position, the angle required by the ujoint is more than it is designed for. I can see indentations in the joint where it was binding. I can also believe that variation in the clearance groove in ujoint might allow some to work, others to quickly wear enough away, and others to stay bound up.
IMG_1677.jpeg
This is looking down on the top of the joint. Hard to see this view.
When I switched the rack back to the upper holes (I’m so glad I have a lift now) everything is smooth and feels good.
Now to adjust the alignment, again, and see if this change survives a driving test.

[Mastertech5]

You may encounter bump steer.

[DanQ]

I am at this exact stage myself. I will be running full fenders and running boards, so I need to use the lower mounting holes (slightly higher ride height) and yes, all the lower holes must be used for control arms, coil overs, and steering rack. I also read the part of trimming off 1/2" from the rear, drivers side lower control arm to clear the steering rack (it will not fit until it is trimmed), but just could not do it until I spoke with Tech Support. Once I had their blessing, it got trimmed and the rack bolted right in.
I am also having a very slight bind feeling in the steering (at 12:00 and 6:00) , and have been trying to locate the problem. Those Borgeson joints are designed to operate up to a 35 degree angle, and both the first joint out of the firewall and the last joint at the rack are almost at that angle. I tried shimming the lower two rack mounting bolts 1/4" to rotate the rack up, reducing that angle, but it did not change anything. It is not a tight bind, but when I rotate the steering wheel with the vehicle on stands, it does get slightly heavier in spots. Just looking at the snake path of the steering shafts, I can't believe it isn't worse.

[peterh226]

This sounds like what I was seeing. The lower rack position is a couple of degrees beyond what I think is the design envelope. Moving it up puts the joints in a much better geometry. I know that I may have some bump steer, but that is better than a joint binding up.
Kinda bummed out with all of the troubles. I got my toe-in set ok but I need to check the caster as the centering is prettt weak and it wanders a bit. But at least no binding.