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Thread: GTM #534 Build Log

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoeless View Post
    Hands down the best setup is the CTS-V Alternator and bracket with Shane's belt tensioner. Especially if you are going with a bit higher HP.

    Make sure you get the right alternator as Cadillac changed over mid year and the old one needs a PWM signal to turn on and that's the one I got as I can control the output voltage with my ECU. There are a few large threads on the other forum with details you can read up on.
    I'm assuming the main reason to use CTS-V alternator is for the voltage output adjustment?

    Currently the engine is a stock LS2, should be making around 400 HP. I do have plans to make a bit more power, with something along the lines of AWD. I'll definitely look into the CTS-V. Still waiting for the C5 AC compressor/bracket to come in, so I can install it before dropping the engine in.

  2. #2
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    What I might be worried about is that I try to avoid having solid elements at 90 degrees to a screwed in element because this gives leverage to allow the screwed in element to be unscrewed. Does that make sense? Just curious...why not use the "bubble flare" like you discussed previously?
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    What I might be worried about is that I try to avoid having solid elements at 90 degrees to a screwed in element because this gives leverage to allow the screwed in element to be unscrewed. Does that make sense? Just curious...why not use the "bubble flare" like you discussed previously?
    That makes a lot of sense. It's actually one thing I'm worried about while putting this together.

    I'm planning on using the bubble flare line on the inner-most MC. Because that's the one interfering with the frame. Other 2 MC (middle and far right) will have a banjo.

    I may have to come up with a solution to prevent the T from unscrewing due to vibration or other effects over time...

  4. #4
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    Here is a picture before the current redo. It is really pretty straight forward. It just requires a bit of finagling around, particularly on the front, to get through the frame work and hooked up to the radiator.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Here is a picture before the current redo. It is really pretty straight forward. It just requires a bit of finagling around, particularly on the front, to get through the frame work and hooked up to the radiator.
    It looks like you have it routed through the wheel well. I'll have to put a wheel on the car to check the clearance.
    Did you have any issues when putting the body on the car?
    .
    Last edited by ohmygosuness; 09-21-2023 at 12:04 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohmygosuness View Post
    It looks like you have it routed through the wheel well. I'll have to put a wheel on the car to check the clearance.
    Did you have any issues when putting the body on the car?
    .
    Nope. There is lots of room. I did put aluminum shields over the tubes where debris would hit them from the spinning front wheels as a precaution.
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Nope. There is lots of room. I did put aluminum shields over the tubes where debris would hit them from the spinning front wheels as a precaution.
    This is good info. I was also wondering about the debris. Thanks.

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