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Thread: Don's 35 Extended Build

  1. #1
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    Don's 35 Extended Build

    Our build has begun on our 35 Extended Cab. We took delivery very early on Feb 8. meeting Stewart Transport 1/4 mile from our house (as we live at the end of a dead end gravel road with a couple of tight turns).

    We placed our order on August 16, 2022.

    I will eventually start an official build thread over in the proper place with details on our objectives for the build and the options we chose. But for now, here is where we are at.

    • All the front suspension is installed
    • Front brakes are installed
    • pedal box is in
    • steering rack with tie rod ends installed
    • fuel tank may go in today


    The cab is still on the chassis. I'm working somewhat out of sequence due to back ordered (POL) and missing parts.

    Now here is my first question regarding Front Upper Ball Joints.

    There have been quite a few differences between the build manual and the kit. For instance the front upper ball joints screw into the control arm from the spindle side of the arm, where the joints on the lower arm are pre-welded in.

    I'm looking for some advice on these ball joints.
    • What torque spec to use
    • should they have a thread locker applied
    • they are 1-7/8 inch across the flats of a square drive. What tool would you use for this


    I followed Erik's build on the SEMA truck but I assume he blasted through his build in order to get to the show. And I don't recall seeing details like this in his videos.

    Helpful or encouraging comments appreciated.

    Don

  2. #2
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    I would not use loc-tite on anything until I was sure it wasn't coming back apart; as a first time builder and tinkerer, I have taken almost everything apart at least once and a few times on some assemblies. the CA / spindle ball joints and tie rod ball joint connections use castle nuts and cotter pins - seat them snug and back the nut off til you can get the cotter pin thru the hole in the ball joint stud; too tight and they will bind

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  4. #3
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    I got a response from F5. They said that no loc-tite required, no need to buy a special socket, just place the ball joint flats in a vise and use the rest of the upper control to tighten it up.

    P1030580 (Large).JPG

    Don

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    Don's 35 Extended Build - Condenser Mounting

    I have not posted very often about my build. Things are going kind of slow because of missing (MIK) parts and backordered (POL) parts. But I have managed to get to the grill area.

    My question involves the Condenser brackets.

    What I think I have is the following:
    • Regular truck grill
    • Regular truck radiator
    • "New Style" condenser with hardlines attached #35049
    • "New Style" upper condenser brackets #35172 & 35173
    • "New Style" lower condenser brackets #35175 & 35176


    Here is a mock up picture

    NewCondenser&Brackets.jpg

    If you notice, the lower brackets have a predrilled hole and the upper brackets have a pre-made 'T' slot.

    Does anyone know how these should be positioned? I think I might have them close to being correct, as to left vs. right, but not sure.

    Of course the Build Manual for the A/C Option really does not address the "newer" parts (condenser and brackets). I'm just wondering if anyone has used these yet?

    Don

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    Grill / Radiator MORE issues

    Mocking up the radiator on the grill they seem to be incompatible.

    Here is what I see.

    IMG_0935.jpg

    I have positioned the radiator centered on the lower grill tab. And the upper part of the radiator looks like it will clear the Cowl Support bracket.

    But the grill upper tab mounting hole is off the edge of the radiator mount tab.

    IMG_0936.jpg

    Measuring the distance between the outside holes on the grill I have 13-15/16, center to center. Measuring the total distance across the outside edges of the radiator tabs I have 14-3/8.

    And they expect 1/4 holes to be drilled in the radiator tabs? That leaves almost nothing between the edge of the hole and the edge of the tab.

    In addition, the upper radiator tab is only 2 inches wide, the lower one is 2-3/8 wide.

    This looks like a BIG design problem to me.

    To add to this I don't seem to have the radiator mounting hardware, such as the spacers that mount it off the grill tabs.

  7. #6
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    Radiator part numbers

    I think I may have discovered the problem. I may have the wrong radiator.

    GrillAssembly.JPG

    Looking at the attached document I received from F5:

    The Grill is #33006. That's the same part number as in my Pack List.
    The Radiator is #33243. The Radiator part number in my Pack List is#34289.

    In addition, looking back at the picture I posted of the rad I have, the fan mounts onto those four studs, where in the assembly drawing above it mounts to "Fan Brackets".

    I don't have the fan yet, mine is a MIK part. But it's supposed to be #34389 where the assembly diagram shows #10668.

    At every step of my build so far (and it's only been less than 60 days) it seems my kit is the "red headed step child" of Factory Five.

    I'll see if I can get Tech Support to review this message thread.

  8. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    It was a couple years ago so might have changed. But my truck came with Griffin Radiator 9D-11278-00, Factory Five part number 34289.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Top Cowl Brace and Radiator

    Continuing with my mockup of the radiator area. I added the cowl brace to the grill to see how much room I had to move the radiator toward the top of the grill.

    If I get that upper radiator tab centered over the two mounting holes of the grill, the radiator touches the cowl support.

    CowlBrace.jpg

    Doesn't look right to me.

    I am assuming that the rounded tank of the radiator goes UP as the bung of the temp sensor would be in the bottom tank. I think I have seen pictures of this orientation, otherwise the temp bung would be at the top.

  10. #9
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Unless something's changed, that's not like the radiator that came with my truck kit two plus years ago. Reference the Griffin part number from my previous post. Don't have a direct on picture of it, but you can see from this pic it's very different than yours and clears that cowl brace by quite a bit. It was a tight fit with the A/C condenser, grille, and getting the angle right.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Could you measure the width of the upper radiator mounting tabs? Looking at the two bolts that mount your radiator to the grill, there is no way I could get them positioned to be so far from the edge of the tab. As mentioned above, my upper tabs are only 2 inches wide, barely enough to cover the grill mount holes.

    Yea, looks like a very different radiator, even though the part number supposedly matches.

  12. #11
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    That radiator is for the 35 deluxe nose not the regular nose. You can see it on Day 34 video

    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  13. #12
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    I have the same radiator as you and when I complained about it I was basically told everything is fine ,make it work. Tabs are just too small.

  14. #13
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    Could you measure the width of the upper radiator mounting tabs? Looking at the two bolts that mount your radiator to the grill, there is no way I could get them positioned to be so far from the edge of the tab. As mentioned above, my upper tabs are only 2 inches wide, barely enough to cover the grill mount holes.

    Yea, looks like a very different radiator, even though the part number supposedly matches.
    A little hard to measure precisely since mine is all together. But as best I can tell, in the range of 18 inches bolt centerline to centerline.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew View Post
    I have the same radiator as you and when I complained about it I was basically told everything is fine ,make it work. Tabs are just too small.
    I think the only way to "make it work" would be to fasten the radiator with only 6 bolts, not using the top most bolt on the radiator. The hood hinge bracket mounts on that upper grill mount with two bolts. And I would have to figure out how to capture/sandwich the condenser mounting bracket in there.

    The other alternative is to use a flat head bolt just for the radiator top hole, making a new hole in the grill. The hood hinge would still use the original two holes.

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    I ended up with some ½ holes bridged with washers. Halfa**ed set up IHO.

  17. #16
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    I got the "official" answer. Drill extra holes and make it work.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    I got the "official" answer. Drill extra holes and make it work.
    Don,
    I have the regular type grill with the pointed bottom and it all fits together with just enough clearance to mount everything including the A/C condenser. Are you installing full fenders? When I ordered mine I was told that if you want the full fenders you need the standard grill, not the deluxe grill that you have.
    On another topic, have you received your missing parts for the running board mounting? I am still waiting for mine. Got the missing power steering package today. Still quite a few other outstanding parts on the OP list.

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    I got the "official" answer. Drill extra holes and make it work.
    Don,
    I have the regular type grill with the pointed bottom and it all fits together with just enough clearance to mount everything including the A/C condenser. Are you installing full fenders? When I ordered mine I was told that if you want the full fenders you need the standard grill, not the deluxe grill that you have. I think The grill you have is part#34914 , the deluxe grill not the standard part#33006. I think they sent you the wrong grill if you are installing hood, side covers and full fenders.

    On another topic, have you received your missing parts for the running board mounting? I am still waiting for mine. Got the missing power steering package today. Still quite a few other outstanding parts on the OP list.

  20. #19
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    Correct Grill & Radiator?

    Here's what I know.

    I ordered the full fender kit (#35244) and the Engine Cover kit (#34617) .

    I think I have the correct grill, see the pictures earlier in this thread. As confirmation, here is the box the grill came in.

    Grill_PN (Medium).JPG

    The part number is #33006.

    It might be the incorrect radiator (#34289). I have no way to prove that's what was in the box. But I'm not the only one that has seen this issue and the F5 response is just drill extra holes to mount the radiator.

    I'll mount the grill on the truck today and hold the front fender up to it to see how things match up (w/o the cowl).
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  21. #20
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    [/QUOTE]On another topic, have you received your missing parts for the running board mounting? I am still waiting for mine. Got the missing power steering package today. Still quite a few other outstanding parts on the OP list.[/QUOTE]

    I have NOT received ANY of my MIK (missing) parts (except for shock mounting bolts). I have received a copy of the Sales order showing that the parts have been submitted to the Warehouse for shipping.

    I have also NOT received ANY of the POL parts.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    That radiator is for the 35 deluxe nose not the regular nose. You can see it on Day 34 video
    Yea, I looked at that video again and the radiator I have looks like yours.

    I tried to mock up the grill area on the truck with the radiator behind the grill. With the grill pulled as far away from the frame as possible and the radiator lifted right up against the cowl brace, this radiator hits the frame under the bottom edge.

    It just doesn't fit.

    I would have to lift the grill / grill mounts on the suspension bolts up to try to get the radiator to clear the frame.

    Thanks for your reply.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  23. #22
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    I double confirmed with engineering.. there are specific radiators for each nose... you cannot mix and match.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    I double confirmed with engineering.. there are specific radiators for each nose... you cannot mix and match.
    And I just got an email from F5 that says for the 35 Truck, the radiator is the SAME whether you have the standard grill or deluxe grill. They also said that on the 33 Hot Rod the radiator is different between the two grills.

    So I really don't know what to believe. But I know I'm going to have a hard time making this one work, especially with the condenser in front of the radiator. If I take the top of the grill and push it toward the windshield, I'll get more space at the bottom to clear the frame. But I don't know at this point how that will affect the engine side cover alignment, interface with fenders or the engine hood.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  25. #24
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    all I can tell is that having built both and speaking with engineering (not email) there are 2 radiators available - the deluxe radiator is smaller
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  26. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    And I just got an email from F5 that says for the 35 Truck, the radiator is the SAME whether you have the standard grill or deluxe grill. They also said that on the 33 Hot Rod the radiator is different between the two grills.

    So I really don't know what to believe. But I know I'm going to have a hard time making this one work, especially with the condenser in front of the radiator. If I take the top of the grill and push it toward the windshield, I'll get more space at the bottom to clear the frame. But I don't know at this point how that will affect the engine side cover alignment, interface with fenders or the engine hood.
    I have both radiators for the 33 Hot Rod, Mine came with the 32 grill and radiator and I changed to the 33. This is the 32
    20221227_154809.jpg

  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    It was a couple years ago so might have changed. But my truck came with Griffin Radiator 9D-11278-00, Factory Five part number 34289.
    I contacted Griffin and got a response. They have not made that 9D-11278-00 radiator for F5 since 2020. It was a "special" for F5 not a standard unit. They told me if I wanted one I would have to go through their "custom" shop. That means I would have to submit a detailed drawing to them for the part I want them to make and the cost would be about $1200.00.

    That's not going to happen because I don't have the confidence that I could specify what would work accurately enough.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  28. #27
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Any reason not to contact FFR and get the correct Radiator?
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    Any reason not to contact FFR and get the correct Radiator?
    I have tried three separate times (Tech Support and Customer Service) and again today. They insist I have the correct radiator.

    I have the condenser mounted in the grill and I have the fiberglass cowl fitting the grill. Tomorrow I'll drill holes in the radiator tabs, fit the spacers, and mount that. Then see how this hole thing is going to work on the truck including with the hood hinges.

    Thanks for asking.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

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    So I’m just starting on the radiator. What did you end up doing and is it working? Thanks, just two weeks into my build. DonS

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    Quote Originally Posted by DonS View Post
    So I’m just starting on the radiator. What did you end up doing and is it working? Thanks, just two weeks into my build. DonS
    I did get the radiator to fit, barely. There is less than 1/4 inch of clearance between the fan and the shock bolts. And probably the same amount of clearance between the bottom of the radiator and the frame. It's a tight fit.

    IMG_1013.jpg

    I used the Factory Five condenser and condenser brackets. But I made all my own spacers to mount the radiator to the grill, on top of the condenser brackets. My spacer sizes ranged from 0.625 to 0.750. The grill mounting areas are NOT in the same plane so each spacer turns out to be a unique size.

    This would be my advice:

    • Make sure your grill support brackets mount to the frame aligning with the UPPER suspension holes, regardless of how you setup your suspension.
    • Mount the grill as far forward as you can using the elongated holes on the grill support brackets
    • Mount the radiator as high as possible on the grill. I have about 1/4 inch of clearance between the radiator and the grill surround bracket. This allowed me to get all eight radiator mounting bolts to be placed on the radiator mounting tabs.


    I checked my grill location by setting the hood in place to make sure I still had some material to trim for proper gaps and to check the angle of the grill with the hood.

    IMG_0957 (Medium).JPG

    Also, I did not follow the F5 build procedure, did my own thing.

    I hope this helps.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

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    Thanks so much. still trying to line everything up, the radiator tabs are very short. Not sure I can get all 8 bolts in, maybe partial on the top holes. DomS

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    Quote Originally Posted by DonS View Post
    Thanks so much. still trying to line everything up, the radiator tabs are very short. Not sure I can get all 8 bolts in, maybe partial on the top holes. DomS
    My bottom two were right on the edge. So I must have the rad higher up in the grill.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  34. #33
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    My bottom two were right on the edge. So I must have the rad higher up in the grill.
    Hey Don.... in your last photo.... It looks like your hood hinge bracket is on top of your radiator mounting tab? Can you clarify or take a closeup pic for me?

    Check my build thread in my signature as I just posted this same issue/question.

    thx Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  35. #34
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    Mark,

    There is so much confusion in the build manual about which is the LEFT or RIGHT hinge bracket. Initially I mounted them forward against the condenser brackets. However, then the hinge pivot point interferes with the fiberglass cowl. So the left and right had to be reversed and placed on top of everything else.

    I had the hood in place when I did my testing so things seem to fit OK now.

    IMG_1040.jpg

    I did move my grill as far forward as possible in those slotted holes.

    IMG_1041.jpg

    Placing them as shown in my photos sure seems like the wrong thing to do because everything that happens in front of the hinge bracket (such as spacer size) affects the pivot point. But that looks like the only way that works.

    Don

    - sorry about the rotation on the pictures. Me and the iPhone rarely get along.
    Last edited by DonImbimbo; 05-16-2023 at 01:02 PM. Reason: pictures
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  36. #35
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    Mark,

    There is so much confusion in the build manual about which is the LEFT or RIGHT hinge bracket. Initially I mounted them forward against the condenser brackets. However, then the hinge pivot point interferes with the fiberglass cowl. So the left and right had to be reversed and placed on top of everything else.

    I had the hood in place when I did my testing so things seem to fit OK now.

    IMG_1040.jpg

    I did move my grill as far forward as possible in those slotted holes.

    IMG_1041.jpg

    Placing them as shown in my photos sure seems like the wrong thing to do because everything that happens in front of the hinge bracket (such as spacer size) affects the pivot point. But that looks like the only way that works.

    Don

    - sorry about the rotation on the pictures. Me and the iPhone rarely get along.
    Thanks Don.... I can swap the brackets like yours (which is the opposite of the manual for the truck!!) However, since you put your brackets on top of the radiator tab, that means you lost 3/16" filler from the bracket? So did you add washers or something to make up the bracket thickness? Or did you just tighten the mount screw down so tight that you bent the radiator bracket to fill the void?

    What about your lower tabs? The 7/16" spacers aren't enough. How did you fill that void?

    thx Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  37. #36
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    This might give you a better idea of what I did.

    IMG_0973 (Medium).JPG

    I made my own spacers, each one a custom length. But I think they ranged from 0.650 to 0.750 inch.

    The bottom most spacer is missing in this picture, I had to order more material.

    The hood hinge bracket mounts on top of the radiator tab as in my previous pics.

    (and so now the thumb nail is correct but you select it and it rotates, I can't win)
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  38. #37
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonImbimbo View Post
    This might give you a better idea of what I did.

    IMG_0973 (Medium).JPG

    I made my own spacers, each one a custom length. But I think they ranged from 0.650 to 0.750 inch.

    The bottom most spacer is missing in this picture, I had to order more material.

    The hood hinge bracket mounts on top of the radiator tab as in my previous pics.

    (and so now the thumb nail is correct but you select it and it rotates, I can't win)
    Thx again Don, but in the new pic you sent, the hood hinge bracket isn't installed? Assume it's just an earlier picture the the bracket is installed on top of the radiator mounting tab. My concern with the hood bracket on top of the rad tab vs on the condenser/grill tab was the hood bracket push out too far and then the hood not fitting??? Can that be adjusted for in some other step?

    I'm going to leave my setup as is for now..... as it matches and follows all 3 manuals (Truck manual for a truck radiator and hood hinge bracket setup, the Coyote Engine Manual for the truck and the Coyote A/C manual). As I proceed with the build, in particular the hood and hinge, I'll adj there if needed.

    Mark
    Last edited by mkassab; 05-17-2023 at 07:41 AM.
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  39. #38
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    Mark,

    Earlier in this thread I posted a picture of the hood fitting with the grill / cowl. I did this to verify that the hinges would work.

    And yes, the last picture shows the spacers under the radiator tab but the hinge bracket is on top of the radiator.

    This was the only solution to getting the hinge pivot to not interfere with the fiberglass cowl.

    Around page 406 in the build you will notice that they have the hinges done the way I did them. The "part #1" in the drawing shows in the table as "Right Hinge" but clearly it is on the left. Part #6 is in the table as "Left" but is on the right.

    So whatever works for you.

    BTW - edwardb also has the hinges on his truck as I am doing them.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

  40. #39
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Don, et. al.,

    I still think how I have it set up matches the manual.

    Page 409 is the Hot Rod.... but page 408 is the truck setup with the 90* bend facing outward... see below pic

    Screenshot 2023-05-17 144543.jpg

    The manual also shows the bracket on top of the radiator tab, however, the radiator tab is on the grill tab directly with no spacers.... which is what my setup is... see pic

    IMG_2110.jpg

    The way you have yours now, I think, is grill tab, condenser tab, spacer, radiator tab the bracket with 90* bend facing inward.

    Hope this helps

    Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  41. #40
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    I saw the "blue truck pic" and noticed that they have the hinge stop bolt in backwards, probably because it collided with the cowl, which is what happened with my first install.

    Then I changed my setup to match what others have done. I also completed the entire setup of the hood hinge with the hood, and all went well.

    So ... to each his own. Whatever works for you is the correct way for you and your build.
    1990 Mustang 5.0 5sp, 2021 Bronco Sport Badlands, 1935 Extended Cab Build, 347 & 4R70W

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