I plan to assemble, fit gaps, remove from frame, paint, then reassemble. My last project I completed about a year ago was a Jeep CJ7 body off frame restoration, and that is the process I used. All the taping in the world still does not give you that "perfect" look of a body painted off the chassis. New bolts going through new paint onto a detailed frame is awesome. However, you will need to be extra careful during final assembly to prevent scratching that new paint, but with a little caution, it will all come together nicely. Paint is more flexible that you may think.
Seems the pros who produce the best results & have done many many cars go with body off.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
I've had them done both ways. No question the most common is body off. By a wide margin. As Jeff said, handled with reasonable care there shouldn't be any risk to the paint. The shops that have done mine body on expressed concern that it would go back on in exactly the same place and preserve the gaps, alignment, etc. I haven't found that to be an issue at all. Painting body on also involves a lot more work masking everything off and even then there's likely to be additional overspray, dust, etc. to clean up.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Be sure your painter makes up some brackets or something so the parts, especially the doors, are painted in the orientation they will be installed in. I have heard several times that metallic paints can look different if one part is sprayed while vertical and another while horizontal.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Be sure your painter makes up some brackets or something so the parts, especially the doors, are painted in the orientation they will be installed in. I have heard several times that metallic paints can look different if one part is sprayed while vertical and another while horizontal.
Of course your painter wants to keep it on; less work in the long run. Assuming they're on the hook for body removal and installation, of course.
I'm DIY, so I'm painting my body myself and more than likely it'll be installed. Mostly because I don't have tons of space to store everything while I do the work. I plan on doing all the body trimming work before I install it, then after installation the doors/trunk/hood will all be aligned and sanded. While they're all installed I'll do everything (bondo to clear coat).
In my case, body off. The body was on and off the chassis quite a few times in the process, so I got pretty good at being careful with it. The reason that the inner body is covered is that I did an aluminum paint drybrush effect on the inside to mimic mill-finish aluminum panels.
As for cracking, given that the bodies expand and contract due to temp changes and sunlight, your painter should use an appropriate flex agent.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
Of course your painter wants to keep it on; less work in the long run...
You couldn’t be more wrong. If painting with the body on the chassis the doors, hood, trunk lid, sidepipes, windshield, roll bars and bumpers all have to be removed. At that point you’re looking at an additional 5 minutes to lift the body off and set it on a buck (don’t believe me…look up the video I posted of me removing a body solo). That versus HOURS spent covering and masking if the body is left on which in the end impedes access to spray door/hood/trunk jambs, cockpit perimeter and inside wheel wells. But hey, what do I know—-you do you
I have painted over 750 FFR roadsters "Body Off".....but I will say this,,, If your painter is more comfortable (Body on) then let him do it the way he is most comfortable with. I would be happy to talk to him if you like to help him have his concerns met. I remember the first time I did "Stripes First". Never ,ever had I done a Z-28 , SS Nova,SS Chevelle or AMX with shadow mask first. I would never do them first after what I have learned over the years.... 951-676-0191 Jeff..."Da Bat"....Miller
You couldn’t be more wrong. If painting with the body on the chassis the doors, hood, trunk lid, sidepipes, windshield, roll bars and bumpers all have to be removed. At that point you’re looking at an additional 5 minutes to lift the body off and set it on a buck (don’t believe me…look up the video I posted of me removing a body solo). That versus HOURS spent covering and masking if the body is left on which in the end impedes access to spray door/hood/trunk jambs, cockpit perimeter and inside wheel wells. But hey, what do I know—-you do you
Jeff
Perhaps then I should reconsider. My logic behind my thoughts was that I'll be driving my car in gelcoat for a few months. I can do a lot of the body work during that time. But when I start the whole paint process I'll need somewhere to store both the car and the body for however long it takes me to do all the work. I certainly can't swap out locations of each since the body is strapped to the ceiling of my garage right now.
Initially I wasn't planning on making it all fit in a weekend either, and I'm not interested in leaving my Cobra outside overnight for any length of time, especially without the body on it. If the counterpoint to that is masking off a bunch of the car, to me that's worth it. I'm only working with a 2-car garage here and during the paint I'll convert it to a paint booth (the best I can anyway).
The hood, doors, and trunk will be removed, of course. I'll build some trees to hold them vertical for spraying.
…I'll be driving my car in gelcoat for a few months. I can do a lot of the body work during that time…
Just as a warning, once you crack through the gelcoat or start adding filler you should take the car off the road. Open fiberglass and filler are permeable and and road grime or contaminates that get into the surface can come back to haunt you later.
As for orientation here’s how I do them; doors vertical, hood, scoop and trunk horizontal just like they get installed.
Hit us up with questions and we’ll try to help!
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 03-08-2023 at 09:12 AM.
Just as a warning, once you crack through the gelcoat or start adding filler you should take the car off the road. Open fiberglass and filler are permeable and and road grime or contaminates that get into the surface can come back to haunt you later.
As for orientation here’s how I do them; doors vertical, hood, scoop and trunk horizontal just like they get installed.
Hit us up with questions and we’ll try to help!
Jeff
This is my favorite way to learn a lesson; directly from someone else's experience. Thanks Jeff! Multiple things there I had not considered. Might have to kick my wife's car to the curb (literally) while I paint the Cobra.
All, as usual, a very productive and helpful input.
I have painted over 750 FFR roadsters "Body Off".....but I will say this,,, If your painter is more comfortable (Body on) then let him do it the way he is most comfortable with. I would be happy to talk to him if you like to help him have his concerns met. I remember the first time I did "Stripes First". Never ,ever had I done a Z-28 , SS Nova,SS Chevelle or AMX with shadow mask first. I would never do them first after what I have learned over the years.... 951-676-0191 Jeff..."Da Bat"....Miller
Thanks for your generous offer Jeff. I will let him know and urge him to reach out with his questions
Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods
Thanks guys, looks like dealer's choice. I'll have a gallon, I'm figuring that's enough for the whole car but on the chance it's not I was just going to go satin black on the insides of doors/trunk/hood.
Thanks guys, looks like dealer's choice. I'll have a gallon, I'm figuring that's enough for the whole car but on the chance it's not I was just going to go satin black on the insides of doors/trunk/hood.
If you’re doing stripes you need 1 quart of stripe color plus 1 gallon of body color. This will be enough for underside of hood & trunk and inside doors. If you’re not doing stripes add another quart of body color.
Related question (sort of). What color are people painting the insides of the doors, hood, and trunk?
Can't say its universal but most of the guys in my group have the whole car,except for the underside, in body color.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
Yeah, I've seen hundreds of these builds and can't remember more than a couple that weren't body color everywhere.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Body off definitely unless you want to spend hours of masking off everything including all the way to the floor. Overspray gets everywhere including on the frame, wheel wells, radiator etc...
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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
