818 Shift Cables Maintenace

[Dave 53]

I have the FFR long *** shift cables and aluminum shifter. After 13,000 miles, it feels like it's taking more effort to shift gears to the point that it's becoming unbearable. The 3 - 2 downshift is particularly difficult. When I disconnect the shift cables from the transmission linkage, I can easily find each gear working the shift forks directly, so I'm theorizing the cables are to blame and probably need a cleaning and lube.

I have a boat that has a diesel engine and a push / pull cable system similar to my 818 shift cables to shut the engine down. After many years, it too became difficult, so I sprayed a bunch to WD40 into the cable housing because it's what I had aboard. It was better for a few pulls until it totally seized up! Still can't figure out why that happened. So, before I go spraying some product that I happen to have... is there a procedure and preferable products to use to get the shift cables back to new? Or do they have a 14,000 mile life.

[lance corsi]

Dave, the cable liner is usually the culprit. Teflon liners are the best. The type of cable is important also, as far as the smoothness of the outer surface.
For a really good feel, maybe think about shifter shafts instead of cables.

[Dave 53]

Dave, the cable liner is usually the culprit. Teflon liners are the best. The type of cable is important also, as far as the smoothness of the outer surface.
For a really good feel, maybe think about shifter shafts instead of cables.

Sounds like you are saying replace my cables. Have you done shafts? Any pictures?

[J R Jones]

Dave, Your description suggests your cables run forward from the shifter and turn 180 degrees routing to the back. This adds length and bends to the cable. There is virtually no wear in straight sections. With cable tension (pull) there is friction and wear on the inside of bends. With cable compression (push) the wear is on the outside of the bends. This opens tolerance and causes slop. Wear particles can build up and when the liner wears through, the cable rubs on the metal case. Cables routed aft from the shifter are shorter with fewer bends.

[Ajzride]

Lance and I have both done solid shifter linkage. The feel is amazing, shifts are very crisp. But it’s a lot of work, the compromise is to get a shifter that routes the cables out the back like an MR2, which cuts the cable length by a third and eliminates the u-turn in the cables.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Shift-Linkage

[autostang]

I have been running the long cables and aluminum shifter the last 4 years. At one point my shifts were getting more difficult and it turned out to be the ball stud on the forward/back motion backing out and actually coming in contact with the base plate. It might be worth double checking. That being said, this winter I have switched over to a solid linkage going straight back with a 3ft long shift cable in a mostly straight line and am blown away by the reduction in shifting effort. It was a bit of an under taking to retrofit though.

[Dave 53]

I have been running the long cables and aluminum shifter the last 4 years. At one point my shifts were getting more difficult and it turned out to be the ball stud on the forward/back motion backing out and actually coming in contact with the base plate. It might be worth double checking. That being said, this winter I have switched over to a solid linkage going straight back with a 3ft long shift cable in a mostly straight line and am blown away by the reduction in shifting effort. It was a bit of an under taking to retrofit though.

Can you share more details on what you did? I'm up for the challenge.

[STiPWRD]

Dave, I also went with the straight cables and MR2 shifter. You can have my original FFR cables (unused) for the price of shipping.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...42-MR2-Shifter

[idf]

I also have a set of unused FFR cables you can have for the cost of shipping if you decide to go that route. Also have a VCP K-Tuned shifter and associated parts I removed from my car I'd like to sell.

[Dave 53]

I also have a set of unused FFR cables you can have for the cost of shipping if you decide to go that route. Also have a VCP K-Tuned shifter and associated parts I removed from my car I'd like to sell.

Thanks for the offer on the long cables. I had all of my left side body panels off not long ago and if that was still the case, I'd take you upon it. I wasn't horribly disappointed with the long cables, when they were new and fresh, so the idea of an easy swap (because the body was already off) to buy some time might have worked. But knowing there is a better option to the long cables will haunt me. I need to move in that direction.

I just realized you're the same guy selling the VCP K-Tuned shifter on the for sale forum. I PM'ed you about it. As I mentioned, I have a VCP K-Tuned shifter and cables that was given to me, but not the transmission parts. So fabricating the transmission parts is an option. Might I ask... why are you selling? Have you got a better system now? Are there downsides to the VCP K-Tuned shifter. Would I be wishing for something better down the line?

Then there is the Zero Decibel $1,200 option...

[Jetfuel]

Dave, when I picked up my 818 it has been sitting for a while and the shifting was kind of hard with the long cables.
Removed the spring ball lock ends and the first rubber dust covers at the transmission.
Removed just the dust cover by the shifter
Installed a piece of rubber hose about 20” long and I believe it was 1/2” ID over the cable and secured it tightly with a worm clamp, filled the hose with alcohol and using a blow gun with a rubber tip pressurized the cable pushing all the moisture forward and collected it in a white rag under the shifter end.
Did this several times with shop air. The final push was a dry run using nitrogen followed by a run with WD40
It work like I thought it would. Done this on 40 years old airplanes for a while
Hope this help

Jet

[Dave 53]

Dave, when I picked up my 818 it has been sitting for a while and the shifting was kind of hard with the long cables.
Removed the spring ball lock ends and the first rubber dust covers at the transmission.
Removed just the dust cover by the shifter
Installed a piece of rubber hose about 20” long and I believe it was 1/2” ID over the cable and secured it tightly with a worm clamp, filled the hose with alcohol and using a blow gun with a rubber tip pressurized the cable pushing all the moisture forward and collected it in a white rag under the shifter end.
Did this several times with shop air. The final push was a dry run using nitrogen followed by a run with WD40
It work like I thought it would. Done this on 40 years old airplanes for a while
Hope this help

Jet

Makes sense to try this first. On my boat too. Great tip! Thanks! Is the nitrogen step essential?

Cleaning and lubing my current cables will be an easy improvement. Fabricating the missing parts for the K-Tuned system I have will take some time, but it be a further step up. Zero Decibel would be awesome, but $$$$. Solid shifter linkage done right would probably feel the best, but take LOTS of time. I need to do some shift feel vs time/$ area under the curve cost benefit analysis.

[idf]

Thanks for the offer on the long cables. I had all of my left side body panels off not long ago and if that was still the case, I'd take you upon it. I wasn't horribly disappointed with the long cables, when they were new and fresh, so the idea of an easy swap (because the body was already off) to buy some time might have worked. But knowing there is a better option to the long cables will haunt me. I need to move in that direction.

I just realized you're the same guy selling the VCP K-Tuned shifter on the for sale forum. I PM'ed you about it. As I mentioned, I have a VCP K-Tuned shifter and cables that was given to me, but not the transmission parts. So fabricating the transmission parts is an option. Might I ask... why are you selling? Have you got a better system now? Are there downsides to the VCP K-Tuned shifter. Would I be wishing for something better down the line?

Then there is the Zero Decibel $1,200 option...

I was never able to adjust the K-Tuned shifter to give quick, sure shifts from 1st to 2nd gear despite many attempts. I was unsure if the problem was internal to the transmission, or to the shifter, cables, etc. Opted to purchase the ZDB shifter partly to avoid having to pull and rebuild the transmission. The ZDB shifter resulted in improvement, but not complete. Ultimately had ZF Design build me a new transmission which along with the ZDB shifter works great. I suspect the K Tuned would now also work well.

Also responded to your PM.

[Dave 53]

As I mentioned, I have a K-Tuned shifter and cables that were given to me, but I'm missing all the other parts to make it work. I just hung up with Wayne at Very Cool Parts (his website is down - he's working on it) and he's going to set me up with the missing parts! I should be able to get it all installed before my next track day on April 22, although, it may be some time before I remove the old cables since that will require taking off body panels and a door.

I was looking for an easy clean and lube solution which Jetfuel provided - thanks! I had sort of forgotten I had parts of a K-Tuned system, but now I'm motivated to make it work. Project creep.

Thanks to all for your input. I always appreciate the wisdom of this forum.

[STiPWRD]

I should be able to get it all installed before my next track day on April 22, although, it may be some time before I remove the old cables since that will require taking off body panels and a door.

If you cut the old cables in half, you might be able to avoid removing the body.

[aquillen]

Cleaning them like Jet described will probably bring back your joy. But if you are dying to fab -

starting at thread 116 to 125 you can review my project. FYI shifts sweet, even without air assist that I added near end of my project (it's doc'd too but less info).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post368080

[Jetfuel]

The nitrogen is not a requirement…unless you’re planning to drive for 4-5 hours at -25-30*F where the moisture within the cables tend to freeze

Jet

[Dave 53]

Heading to Thunderhill Raceway tomorrow! Was hoping to have the K-Tuned shifter installed by now, but I'm still missing some parts. My car was still drivable, but on track, it had become a real issue. Especially 3-2 downshift because it was taking so much effort and the shifts were very slow which made heel toe blips hard to do and I suck at it even when the shifts are smooth and fast. Even if it was only for this weekend (because I hope to have my K-Tuned shifter installed before my May 12 date at Sonoma), I decided to clean and lube the long cables as described by Jetfuel hoping for improvement.

My car has just over 13,000 miles. The degradation in performance was very slow, so it's one of those things you don't really notice over time until it's really bad. I would say if you have about 8,000 miles, maybe even less, DO THIS CLEAN AND LUBE SERVICE NOW! Now it shifts like butter! If I hadn't already started the K-Tuned project, I would be fully satisfied with the shifting performance now (as predicted by aquillen).

My process...
1. Rubber tubing on Amazon. 1/2"ID. Get 2 meters. I bought 1 meter, but I blew the hose up 3 times and was down to 1 foot when I was lubing the second cable.
2. Remove the center counsel cover for access to the cable nut area and place rags under the area where the alcohol and lube will drip out.
3. At the transmission, I removed the cable mounting bracket from the tranny and the in/out cable from the bracket. Note adjustment nut positions before removing nuts. I still needed to do a bit of adjusting after even though I had reassembled just as it was before disassembly, but it was close.
4. Lube the cable shaft before slipping the little black dust covers off the shift cable shaft. I had one fall apart on me before I figured out to use some lube. It had hardened and was brittle.
5. Hose clamp the rubber hose to the cable. Same for the air compressor side. I dialed the compressor back to 30psi.
6. Add alcohol (or lube) to the hose. Blow the hose up a bit like a balloon, then exercise the shifter and observe what is or isn't dripping out of the shifter end of the cable as the balloon deflates. Wear eye protection. One of the times when the hose blew, it sprayed alcohol all over my face. Another time the hose clamp blasted off into the garage black hole. Maybe even consider ear protection because when it blows, it's like a shot gun. Better yet, just go slow and be patient. In the picture, that's way too much air and it's probably on the verge of blowing. Blow up the hose to half the photo size or less.
7. After flushing the alcohol through, blow out with just air. It was fairly easy to tell when the alcohol stopped dripping out. I blew out more air for a bit just to make sure. The catch rag had just a little bit or fine metal shavings and not too much black gunk.
8. Blow in the WD40 while occasionally exercising the shifter until it comes out the other end.

Like all projects, I could do it a second time in 1/3 the time. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do maybe every 5,000 - 8,000 miles.

Much thanks to Jetfuel for the tip!shifter enema.jpg

[Bicyclops]

WD40 is a horrible lubricant. Use LPS2 or Boeshield.

Ed