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Thread: Overhaul-A Different Approach

  1. #1
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    Overhaul-A Different Approach

    High level of frustration with my steering setup on the 33 Hot Rod. I have completely taken it apart and reinstalled it 3-4 times inn the past few years, read 6-7. I have experienced a complete failure at 60 mph and several lesser issues resulting in loss of stability, loose components, and generally disappointing ****. First up, I did not get a good start with the first assembly. Instead of reading and making sure I understood the instructions and the process of linking the steering shafts to the rack and pinion, I just slapped it together and hoped for the best. It held for a while but over time problems would crop up. My most consistent problem seems to have been the rack input shaft and the 26 spline steering U-Joint slipping resulting in lots of lag and looseness in the steering. What ever the case, it wasn’t right and I wasn’t helping. After nearly 100,000 miles the problem was compounded by the rest of the U-Joints developing a lot of play. We surmised flex of the chassis over Texas concrete road joints was playing a role in dragging backwards pressure on the 26 spline unit, encouraging it to slip down the input shaft and eventually wearing out the splined receptacle, causing damage to the shaft from the set screw being drug along with it. Compounding the problem has been the Covid pressure on the supply chains and sometimes difficulty in contact ting the right people who could help. First and foremost, FFR has been magnificent trying to help me cope with a problem I mostly created and lacked the knowledge to articulate accurately to them.

    Talked all this over with some custom Rod Shops in the DFW area and decided to strike a new path. Borgenson makes quality parts and significantly makes a telescoping shaft we felt would take pressure off the chassis flex affecting the steering shaft setup. Issue was the Borgenson telescoping unit was a two piece shaft 1” DD on one end and 3/4' DD on the other. It is essentially a 1” DD shaft with a 3/4” DD shaft set inside it. Not quite that simple as there are a series of stops and safeties that prevent the shaft from coming apart and so forth. However, when I got a Borgenson 3/4” by 1” DD U-Joint on the telescoping shaft, it seemed to bind the FFR original U-Joint that came right out of the firewall by overwhelming the bend angle to greater than 30 degrees. To be exact, we calculated the actual bend with the telescoping shaft to be 37 degrees. I called around for a U-Joint that would give me at least a 40 degree bend. Borgenson has one but does not advertise it, you have to ask them directly for it. The other alternative was a double joint which would have required a third shaft support bearing. I opted for the special single joint. This joint is massive. Another issue is the snugness of the fit of the 26 splined socket around the rack input shaft. The Borgenson unit is snug enough that I had to encourage it to slip onto the shaft. when set in position, there is no wiggle. It does differ in overall length from the FFR unit so had to cut a longer 3/4” DD shaft. Essentially we replace all three shafts and U-Joints shown in the FFR Gen I manual. After a test fit there was initially some binding but we were able to address it. The knuckles on the U-Joint actually were contacting the edge of the DD shafts when installed flush with the U-Joints. Backing them down to about 1/32 to 1/16 from flush solved most of the problem with a little radiusing required on the 3/4” to 1” DD joint.

    We set the system up centering the steering shaft in the rack. We set the system up first without dimpling the DD Shafts and tested it. Next we dimpled the shafts, reinstalled and tested again. Finally, we Locktited everything in the final install. Stability of the car is remarkable, there is no wandering back and forth in the lane, even on rougher surfaces. I take my hands off the wheel and the car tracks straight without wandering off to one side or the other. There is no lag in the steering wheel or system. I have never experienced such a good feel in the overall performance of the steering system. I am certain that had I waited for and purchased FFR parts the result would have been just as good but I would not have been able to use the telescoping shaft. Mixing and matching the parts did not work well, you may have seen earlier posts I made concerning this. This whole setup is about geometry and safety. I do think the Borgenson 26 spline shaft is worth a look for better fitment on the rack input shaft. As usual, I will continue to drive the hell out of the car and see if the good lasts.

    GOPR0223.jpgGOPR0217.jpgIMG_1535.jpgIMG_1534.jpegIMG_1533.jpeg
    Last edited by wrp; 03-23-2023 at 05:18 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Glad to hear you spent the effort to get it right. I was always concerned about the geometry of the shafts, especially where the last joint attached to the rack. It became more of an issue when I added the electric assist. I dimpled the shafts, double nuts and Loctite but still experienced loosening of the joints over time. My final solution, after having the joint fall off the rack while backing out of the garage, was to apply a tack weld of the joint to the rack input shaft. Ended up selling the car and hope the problem was solved. I wonder why if FFR has the racks custom built, they didn't come up with a better alignment for the steering shaft.

  4. #3
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    Not to hijack but... Your coolant recovery tank mounting caught my eye, Do you have a post/thread already on the install and mounting?

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cob427sc View Post
    Glad to hear you spent the effort to get it right. I was always concerned about the geometry of the shafts, especially where the last joint attached to the rack. It became more of an issue when I added the electric assist. I dimpled the shafts, double nuts and Loctite but still experienced loosening of the joints over time. My final solution, after having the joint fall off the rack while backing out of the garage, was to apply a tack weld of the joint to the rack input shaft. Ended up selling the car and hope the problem was solved. I wonder why if FFR has the racks custom built, they didn't come up with a better alignment for the steering shaft.
    Sorry to hear you sold your car. I had considered tac welding the joint to the shaft based on your description. Several companies make quality joints that do not have the looseness issues we had in at least the Gen I kit. The FFR staff was great to work with and has been for me for the last 10 years. What exacerbated the issue was my decision to use the telescoping shaft necessitating more reliance on a single manufacturer’s engineered products. I haven’t declared success yet but I am excited. I'm sure it is a challenge to produce a kit and not specify the exact engine and fitment. I would reiterate most of the issues I have had were due to my improper initial and subsequent efforts at setting the steering system up. If I were trying to send a message it would be that this is a complex build. Winging it does not ensure success (that’s not aimed at you, but is aimed at me).
    Last edited by wrp; 03-23-2023 at 08:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just 1 More View Post
    Not to hijack but... Your coolant recovery tank mounting caught my eye, Do you have a post/thread already on the install and mounting?
    One of those instances where necessity was the mother of all.... Initial setup had the reservoir on the firewall. Adding HVAC necessitated the lines coming through at about the only decent place on the firewall to mount it. Fabrication of the bracket was somewhat of a snap. L-Bracket setup with two 1/4 by 20 threaded allen bolts running into threaded receivers on the frame. I have a similar setup for the AC
    Drier on the other side.

    Holley-74.jpgIMG_6186.jpgIMG_6185.jpgIMG_0370.jpegDon Ross Hood Panel-50.jpg

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  9. #6
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    Here is a shot of the system


  10. #7
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    Naturally had to take the car out for several test drives

    Last edited by wrp; 03-23-2023 at 11:50 PM.

  11. #8

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    Im with you all the way. It really affects the joy of driving. I’ve reassembled a few times too and it got better.. and I opted for a chassis support before the last uj. And I got a new rack from FFR. It’s better and good enough - but I still plan for another overhaul at some point.

    Thanks for this!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Im with you all the way. It really affects the joy of driving. I’ve reassembled a few times too and it got better.. and I opted for a chassis support before the last uj. And I got a new rack from FFR. It’s better and good enough - but I still plan for another overhaul at some point.

    Thanks for this!
    Curious as to what the new rack added? Are they now different from the Gen I racks?

  14. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    Curious as to what the new rack added? Are they now different from the Gen I racks?
    No change at all. I got one simply because the internals broke/wore out - you know, the plastic bushings kept coming out and had a lot of slop.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  16. #11
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    That is where I am at also, figured I needed to get the geometry and steering mechanics right before doing the rack.

  17. #12
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    Just got back from the alignment shop. They spotted the coupling at the rack had come loose.
    That’s a splined connection and was tight when I put it all together.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  18. #13
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    A lot of folks are using a joint that utilizes a pinch bolt instead of the set screw. The pinch bolt rides in the radiused groove in the rack to keep it from coming off, this is how the OEMs do it.

    Also, FFR is supplying a twisted double D for the upper shaft. They have found that having one pair of joints out of phase makes for less binding and smoother overall action.

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  20. #14
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    That is great and thanks for the information.

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