2021 Ford F150 -> XTF pre runner build log

[kabacj]

I'm in!



When I saw the factory five XTF at SEMA I knew it was in my future.




My experience building the GTM into a super unlimited race car that I documented here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...+modifications


gave me a huge respect for Factory Five engineering. In the GTM kit, I was delivered an incredibly capable platform that I and others were able to build into a winning race car AND an insane street car. It was my first ever car build, my first ever race car build, and many more first ever things. The fact that I was successful was all about the foundation I started with and the community here that encouraged me and helped me along.



I have been waiting for years for a V8 raptor like the Raptor R. For me, a V8 is mandatory.

I wanted a truck that was more about the well-rounded experience vs just the bragging rights stat sheet. TRX… its cool and fast, but it’s not what I want.

I wanted a truck with all the nice infotainment features that come in a new vehicle AND next level capability on and off road. For me , cars and trucks are just as much about the total user experience as the numbers on the spec sheet. The user experience is especially important as a daily driver. Ford has invested millions and millions of dollars making the F150 into the best selling truck in America so it’s a great place to start.

Considering what I want , what are my choices? Pay a stupid premium for a raptor R. Wait and hope the Raptor R some day sells at its 109k sticker price which is still kinda high considering what you can buy for $109,000 dollars … or build exactly what I want using the Factory Five XTF… and here we are.





This will be a daily driver toy not just a weekend toy.

Its gotta jump high.





Jumping things is really fun, and having a full size pickup that can fly is unique.

Power needs to be respectable but its not going to be a drag truck. 37 inch tires really ruin your strip times so ill focus on optimizing performance as a pre runner.

Although I'm really far from the desert, the desert is one of my favorite places. Ill move west soon enough so I might as well build the truck ill want when I get there.





Step 1

Find a good F150 to base my build on. Unfortunately Ford does not make it easy to know exactly what you get on a truck, but after doing lots of research I landed on the below.



Requirements

V8- even a stock motor can be boosted to very impressive levels and sounds great

Lariat trim- I think this is the sweet spot for features that will carry over to the XTF

FX4- drive modes and drive train that are helpful in an off road truck

9.75 inch rear end 3.73 gear ratio

Max Tow package – so I get bigger rear brakes, more cooling capacity in the engine and transmission and the heavy duty 9.75 axle

360 camara- this tech is so cool and actually not common on new cars. Ford has a great system.

Sync 4 – I like the giant screen

Pro Power onboard – its handy to have a decent generator built into the truck





I was looking for a low mile truck and something that is corrosion free. I want this thing to fly apart without any difficult rusted nuts and bolts.

I cast a wide net 250 miles around my house and found 5 trucks.

I landed on this one.



10,000 miles on the clock. Got an oil change every 3000 miles according to CarFAX.

It had the panorama roof and nice sound system as a plus.

it has the tow package , but the hitch is pristine... It never towed anything.

It barely had anything in the bed

And the body is absolutely perfect.



I drove it home. 22.6 MPG on the 120 mile drive home. pretty good!

[kabacj]

Now that I found a foundation for my build it was time to collect the parts needed for the kit.

When Ford builds an F150 with the Max tow package where you get bigger rear brakes, enhanced engine and transmission cooling and a heavy duty 9.75 rear axle you also typically get the 36 gallon fuel tank.

The bigger tank is definitely useful when you are pulling a load and getting poor gas milage, however the 36 gallon does not fit in the XT1. In the kit the fuel tank is relocated toward the rear of the truck and mounted perpendicular to the center line of the truck . The 36 gallon is too long to fit across the frame.

Here are the tanks side by side.

[IMG][/IMG]

In addition to swapping the 26 gallon tank from a 2015 to 2023 F150 I also needed to order a 26 gallon fuel pump from Ford. Changing the fuel pump will allow the computer to calculate the distance to empty and the sending unit is calibrated to the fuel level of the 26 gallon tank.

I’ll cover the tank swap when we get to that point.

[kabacj]

I like the idea of having a generator along with me at all times so I looked for an F150 with the pro power option. Pro power gives you two outlets with 20 amp service in the bed.

In order to get the bed off these accessories as well as the LED bed lights need to be removed.

[IMG][/IMG]

The thing about any of the accessories and gizmos on this truck is everyone of them needs to be moved over to the XT-1 build or the truck complains either on the dash info screen or via the Ford Pass app or both.

[IMG][/IMG]

[kabacj]

After pulling all of the wire mounting christmas trees out of the bed the next step is to pull the bed off. This will be a father son project, so my son started pulling all of the bed bolts.

[IMG][/IMG]

After pulling the tail lights there was simply one bolt holding he fuel filler pipe that needed removal.



Using an engine crane the bed was easily lifted off. From there the bed can be carried by two people without a problem.

[IMG][/IMG]

Next we pressure washed the frame and drive line while keeping the open wire loom ends in a plastic bag to prevent them from getting wet.

[IMG][/IMG]

[kabacj]

With the bed off next is pulling apart the grill and fenders.

You are going to need some good trim removal tools as everything on this truck is designed for quick assembly.... but not necessarily quick disassembly.

pulling out the wheel well liners might help me see what's going on in the grill area so they came off first. Now at least I could see how things were attached.

[IMG][/IMG]

next easiest thing to pull off was the bumper. lots and lots of sensors here.


[IMG][/IMG]

I'm pretty sure these are part of the radar system that helps you maintain your cruise control distance as well as sees things that you are going to hit and does something.... nobody says it works super well, but whatever. Oddly it lowers your insurance premium , so it must have some usefulness.

i

3 hours into the disassembly and we decided to call it a night. We backed the truck into the garage that we spent the earlier part of the day cleaning out. The truck JUST fits. Everything is big with this build but lets see if i can do it in one side of my garage.

[IMG][/IMG]

[kabacj]

Looks like Road and Track came out with an article on the XT1 yesterday

http://https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a44298958/ford-f-150-factory-five-xt1-kit/

The next AM was a work day for me so my son was responsible for completing the front end tear down.

In no time at all I got a text with these pictures.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[kabacj]

After pulling out the grill you need to remove and save the grill shutter motor for re attachment later.

I forgot to take a picture with it installed, but this is where it sits in the shutter mechanism

[IMG][/IMG]

the splines in the motor fit into the drive axles that move one left and one right shutter. All shutters are connected by a pretty elegant mechanism that snaps on and off easily




Because i have been traumatized by plastic parts that break when you try to disassemble them I was a little scared to do this , but I tell you, ford has come a long way with their plastic materials science. The shutters are just pliable enough that you can bend the shutter vain in the middle by pulling on it and prying at the edge and it just pops out without breaking!! What a concept!

pry here and bend the shutter from the middle and it pops right out.

[kabacj]

First question for the group.

I am being very careful to make sure to keep track of anything that is plugged in because the trucks computer seems like it does an inventory of every item that it expects to be connected at startup. I also notice that it does a verification that sensors are in range. That's a reasonable thing to do..

one of my tasks today is to plug everything back in and check the truck with a scanner and verify that the truck thinks everything is OK. After that the motor and trans come out and the cab comes off.

oddly i found this one plug that does not go to anything. The plug actually goes to the white block off which is attached to this bracket. The plug is right in the area of the headlight and if it did plug in somewhere it seems like that's where it would reach.

anyone familiar with what it is? unless you took the truck apart you probably would never see it. My google searches come up dry.

[michael everson]

I cant even imagine taking such a beautiful truck apart. I would guess you can recuperate some of the cost by selling off everything you don't need?
Mike

[kabacj]

I cant even imagine taking such a beautiful truck apart. I would guess you can recuperate some of the cost by selling off everything you don't need?
Mike

Hey Mike,

Yeah I think I can sell off the bumpers, bed, fenders stuff like that because those are the parts you most often damaged in a fender bender. All the parts are pristine condition so they should make someone happy when they swap out a damaged part.

I'm not going to lie saying It doesn't hurt me a bit to take apart such a nice truck . The truck is wonderful , but it really needs something... a little spice.

I think this project is really going to solve that problem. Haha

[kabacj]

Because i am paranoid that somehow I messed up the electronics. The truck complains a lot when moving it around without all the sensors attached. For example, it will not go into drive when the hood open sensor is disconnected.

I plugged everything back in for a test.



Success!

I also got an accessory backup camera like you would use on the back of a trailer or camper shell. This will allow me to retain the 360 camera with the tailgate on or off.

[kabacj]

OK now it’s time to really take the plunge of disabling the truck and getting ready for my kit delivery this week. As I said before, it’s hard to take such a nice truck and turn it into a non working pile of parts… but I know it’s going to be worth it. Here goes!

First is the exhaust. Wow that was easy. Removing the hangers from the frame and loosening the clamp the muffler twisted right off!





That was EASY! The truck sounds better too.

Next is the rear end. A few more bolts and it’s free.



It’s probably not necessary exactly at this point in the build but it’s just two hanger bolts and the quick disconnect fuel line fittings so we also dropped the almost empty gas tank. According to the truck I had 8 miles of range but feels like there are a few gallons left in the tank.




Now the truck needs to come out of the garage for the next step. I dont have my kit yet which includes casters to roll the truck without a rear axle so I simply used the casters i use to jockey the cars around inside the garage under the rear springs.

[kabacj]

Ok now the hard part. Getting the body off the frame. As a beta builder I’m just trying to figure this out. I’m not representing the fact that this is safe or the best way to do it. It’s just what I did . (Legal disclaimer over now on to the fun)

When researching this part I saw many videos of lifting an F150 body off the frame. Ford drop the body directly on during assembly. This should be easy… famous last words.

Since it was 5.00 in the evening on Sunday, I figured this is a good time to start lifting the body off the frame.

Step 1 was orienting the body so I could insert the factory five frame either from the back of the body or the side depending on what happens with my attempted lift. Next we get the body on jack stands



We basically lowered the frame to get the body on the stands by removing the front wheels.



Next i inserted the lifting frame under the body. You need to get the body high enough to clear the transmission which is the highest part of the frame drivetrain assembly.



Then using the engine crane and straps we slowly lifted the frame a few inches at a time resetting the 2x4 stilts at each new height.



And we have successful separation !!

[Higgybulin]

Definitly sketchy! But I'll give you points for ingenuity! You have my attention!
Higgy

[kabacj]

Definitly sketchy! But I'll give you points for ingenuity! You have my attention!
Higgy

Haha. Higgy

Both my son and I had nightmares on Sunday night that we would wake up to the truck on the pavement on Monday AM.

But to be honest now that the monument to the F150 greets me every AM on my way to work and when I get home I'm getting used to the idea of having the truck body up there.

It’s actually very very stable.



If this giant boat is ok why isn’t a tiny truck body ok?




Just think of the wood platform as a giant jack stand… seems kinda normal now… maybe?

This is how I convince myself stuff like this is OK. Ha

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey John...just sayin'





Jeff

[JohnK]

If this giant boat is ok why isn’t a tiny truck body ok?

Is that your boat? Now you've got my attention! She's a beauty!

[kabacj]

Hey John...just sayin'





Jeff

Haha. You got me Jeff for sure. I originally planned on taking the truck down off the stand I had casters and plywood pads built into the lifting frame but. It kinda looks good to me in the driveway.

Nobody has mentioned anything to me about it, but Saturday I’m sure they all will come by to see what’s going on this time.

[kabacj]

Is that your boat? Now you've got my attention! She's a beauty!

Hey John

No I wish that was my boat. I have a Catalina 22 with a swing keel. I lifted that boat 4 feet in the air to drop the keel and repair it. That’s why I was pretty sure I could lift an aluminum shell a few feet up. The boat still floats so hopefully the truck lands safely too.

[kabacj]

So it’s 10.00 at night on Sunday and we got the motor and frame out from under the body. I under gunned the lifting frame. Making a 6.5 by 8 foot rectangle using only one 2/4 allowed too much flex for my comfort, so I ended up laminating another 2x4 inside the original frame to make everything much stiffer mid lift. That and figuring out how to get the frame / motor as low as possible and how to move it all around took some time.

But we got it done.


It was too late to drop the body down on to the casters like I had planned so it’s going to stay there for a week.
The next step is to free the motor/ transmission and front differential from the frame.




I plan to lift the whole assembly up and drop it into the factory five frame that should arrive on Friday.

[kabacj]

Today is the day!

Customer frame number two is on its way from Factory Five right now! The crew left at O dark 30 to beat the holiday traffic. I can’t wait!

[kabacj]

The guys rolled in bright and early which was excellent. Some quick teamwork and we had all of the boxes unloaded.



Next we rolled the frame off the flatbed adjusting the loading ramps to account for the offset of the casters.



In no time we were unloaded. Time to get building!!!… oh after I go to work. I really need to adjust my priorities.

[kabacj]

As many of you know. The day after delivery is mostly about where am I going to put all this stuff.

After we got over that hurdle, it was time to get into the final disassembly.

First item was getting the motor free of the chassis. I am trying to avoid taking anything apart that I can, so that made lifting a bit awkward.. and quite heavy. Of course I realize now that the coyote is annoying to lift as there are lift points and hooks that make the lift easier. Oh well its been done without the proper lift hooks before. I needed to add straps all over the place to make it balance and some are just backup without much load like the one over the manifold. Ugly, but it works. I ordered the lift hooks for next time.



we took apart the front suspension and pulled off the hubs, uprights brakes etc to re use. We are accumulating a pretty big pile of parts that will not be reused.



While my son focused on disassembly. I started working on the rear axle housing. First clipping off the shock mounts as we wont need those. I love plasma cutters.







Then a quick clean up of the axle. removing the remainder of the lower shock mounts



Then removing the rust scale on the cast iron housing. Let me tell you a needle scaler is the best thing for this job. It can get into all the nooks and crannies and makes the housing ready for paint in no time. It does make a huge racket, but it does a great job. each one of those needles acts like a hammer and pulverizes the rust leaving clean metal. Its only good on heavy metal parts as it would deform sheet metal very quickly.

[kabacj]

Now that the motor is out it was time to start swapping parts directly into the XT-1 frame that I have outside.

Two bolts and the power steering rack is out of the F150 and into the XT-1



The CV axles are removed to be replaced by longer units from factory five. Removal of the CV axles also make the front differential easier to move HOWEVER don't tip the differential too far toward the drivers side or gear oil will pour out. Don't ask me how I know.



after a little clean up, both the front diff and steering rack were installed.



With that out of the way now it was time to swap the frames in the garage. Out with the bare F150 frame and in with the XT1. With the XT1 in the garage it was time to drop the motor and transmission into the frame. This was a pretty easy step with the body out of the way, although all the wiring and plumbing made the process slow as I did not want to snag anything and damage it. We installed the cats and torqued everything to spec. This thing is really flying together.



Next on the list.....

[kabacj]

Its unbelievable that its possible to bolt on 710 hp with a factory warrantee. If ford installs this ford performance parts (its really a whipple) super charger you can get a 30,000 mile warrantee. Iv read that ford thinks it will last 100,000 miles using this tune and configuration. The internal combustion engine is not dead yet !!

Since Factory Five are a Ford Performance Parts dealer, I ordered the "Ford Performance Parts" super charger to come along with the kit. Three BIG boxes.



The first step of the install was to remove the stock intake manifold. Oddly some of the sound attenuation foam surrounding the fuel rails was ripped off in bits here and there. We found out were it went !



Some mouse thought the valley between the heads was a good place to build a home. No poop in the valley so he did not stay there for long, but I guess this is to be expected when you get such a low mile truck . It sat in the garage a lot.

the next step is final assembly of the super charger. I guess because it comes with so many variations whipple/ Ford think its easier for the customer to add the details before install. Well that takes some time. We were being very careful to make sure we followed the instructions to the letter as this was going to be a once and done job. Things like adding the orange silicone sealing tubing and the black O ring between the intercooler and rotors are user installed items.



With that done it was time to drop the blower on the motor.




There was much rejoicing!

Set aside the fact that the user needs to do final assembly of the unit, one of the most impressive features is how factory this setup is. Look at this new thermostat housing on the left. Its clearly designed by a company with lots of resources (Ford). This housing allows me to run my dual alternator Pro Power setup and run a super charger. Very nice!



Done. This job is much much easier to do on a motor that is outside the truck. Whipple really packed the blower into every space available. Sure you can do this install in the engine compartment, but when you have the motor out already I HIGHLY recommend doing the install then. Of course bigger power is available with more aggressive tunes, but then you need to get into changing the crank and beefing up the whole system to make it live a long time.

[Erik W. Treves]

you will love that whipple - I had one on my last truck and had over 45,000+ miles on it and it just kept going!

[J R Jones]

I am surprised that Ford does not call out a cam shaft appropriate for boost. That is leaving some performance on the table. How much boost does this deliver? Compression is not reduced?
My son has supercharged two Lexus V8s for a Supra; the first with an earlier Ford blower. DIY is a challenge. The second engine is (Whipple) blown hard enough that it required a stronger bottom end and reduced compression.
jim

[Erik W. Treves]

The stock bottom ends on the these will go up to 800-1000hp all day long. My gen2 made 650hp at 12 psi - burnouts with the trailer attached... The coyotes are missing a bit of torque - but they love forced induction -

[kabacj]

Now that the motor is complete its time to put the cab on the frame. The fourth of July was on and off thunder showers here in the northeast so we were delayed a bit getting started. The sun came out and we got to lifting

its funny how having the body 30 or so inches up is really no big deal now.. at least it does not feel like a big deal. A few lbs of 3 inch deck screws and this platform is rock solid. The boat jacks really help in the front as well as additional support points although they are time consuming to adjust as we lift. One side I was lifting with a high lift jack and the other was the engine crane lifting the back then the front. Slowly stepping up 6 inches at a time.




We kept resetting the legs downward every 6 or 8 inches of lift to ensure that if something failed the body does not have too far to fall. My 18 volt dewalt impact got a workout.
And like a glove! we are 43 inches up and the motor/ chassis rolls right under with loads of clearance. haha. That was easy... well not that easy, but its possible.



After lowering back down to 25 inches or so I need to re configure the platform to clear the transmission which is quite a bit higher than the chassis.



thankfully there weren't any fireworks with the lift, but now it was time to call it quits an go see some Fireworks.

[dukegrad98]

Given the amount of labor and the amount of lumber, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be worthwhile for builders to rent a telehandler or similar equipment to simply lift the cab assembly off the Ford chassis and onto the XT1 chassis. Around here you can rent a 6,000lb telehandler for about $250/day. I've even thought about whether it would be possible to use the forks on my Deere tractor, but I'm not sure my model could handle the weight of a fully outfitted cab.

Cheers, John

[kabacj]

Given the amount of labor and the amount of lumber, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be worthwhile for builders to rent a telehandler or similar equipment to simply lift the cab assembly off the Ford chassis and onto the XT1 chassis. Around here you can rent a 6,000lb telehandler for about $250/day. I've even thought about whether it would be possible to use the forks on my Deere tractor, but I'm not sure my model could handle the weight of a fully outfitted cab.

Cheers, John

I agree with you John. A forklift of some sort is a much faster and safer option.


This exercise was more about testing an idea, than getting it done the easiest or best way. I can borrow a fork lift for free from a friend.

The cab is front heavy, but it’s not especially heavy. I bet a garden tractor could lift it. Let’s find out.

I’ll pull out my racing scales and get corner weights and total weight.

[kabacj]

Well this cab is not a feather weight! You will need a reasonable size tractor to lift it. It’s definitely above what a mini tractor is rated to lift to full height. Since the tractors are not rated for what they can lift to half height, we might need more testing



Note that this weight includes the 2x4 platform so let’s subtract 250 lbs . 1,572 lbs. Thats pretty heavy!

The other thing to consider is the distance between the cab and the bed structure and the cab and the motor is less than one inch when the cab is on its mounts. The final fitting requires decently fine positioning. A fork lift has fine adjustment on all axes. Thats a plus.

You also can’t put the cab down fully as the bottom of the cab is concave. When supported on forks the cab is still 8 or 10 inches from home. The final drop will need to happen off jack stands using floor jacks.

Interesting results .

[dukegrad98]

Thanks for that awesome post! I had wondered about the total weight of the cab, and now I've got a real good idea -- really appreciate that. And you're right, that's just beyond what I'd be comfortable doing with my tractor that has a loader/forks. (Unfortunately my larger tractor that could easily handle that weight lacks a loader setup.)

As far as the shape of the cab and the clearance of forks, etc... Just thinking out loud, but if you were using a telehandler, I wonder about rigging it from above? Of course that requires all its own precautions, but it lets you avoid those issues underneath when you're trying to set it down.

Thanks again for a great post and letting us follow along on your early build.

Cheers, John

[kabacj]

As far as the shape of the cab and the clearance of forks, etc... Just thinking out loud, but if you were using a telehandler, I wonder about rigging it from above? Of course that requires all its own precautions, but it lets you avoid those issues underneath when you're trying to set it down.

Thanks again for a great post and letting us follow along on your early build.

Cheers, John

John I think its possible to lift the body from above. I think you are on to something as Ford also lift the body from above hooking into holes in the body that still allow access to the cab to frame mounting holes.



For our purposes, I think we want to use straps instead of a rigid frame so that would require some sort of spreader setup.


I
While I would not want straps pressing against the outside of the doors, you could open the doors and run the straps directly down from the spreaders under the truck and back up. Its also possible to rig up the cab like this.



the front section of the truck its plenty strong to support the truck. We lifted with a strap going to the two corners behind the headlights right above the radiator without issue. We also lifted the front using the boat jacks under the radiators. Both work fine.

[kabacj]

Now the truck is getting heavy. The frame motor and cab are getting to be a bit much for the casters. The factory five provided casters worked great with the frame and motor, but the cab was the straw that broke the camels back. Rolling the cab became much more difficult.

I tried another set of casters I have, also not rated for 1,500 lbs each. The rubber tires rolled a little bit better on the pavement .



It’s time to put the wheels back on. I’ll start with the rear axle. After clipping off the shock supports that will not be used.





Next the rear cover comes off and the axle brace is installed and cover replaced. Ford uses M9-1 bolts on the housing. These bolts are nearly impossible to find! Factory five sourced them , however they are not ready. I figured rather than waiting id just get some from McMaster Car. They dont even stock them! Oh well I’ll just use the Ford bolts. They are too short, but I can still catch 4 or 5 threads. Enough to compress the RTV sealant

Big gears in this 9.75 rear.



I got the 3.73 electronic locking rear differential as part of the FX 4 package.

After the housing bolts are installed next you need to drill out the spring pads to accept the mounting bolts for the axle brace.




Slow drill speed and cutting oil and it’s not a terrible job. Just takes some time.

[kabacj]

In my effort to consolidate all the parts and organize / stage the items I need for each part of the build I probably misplaced some hardware. That meant I could not find the bolts needed to attach the axle brace to the axle.

One of the nice things about having a donor truck is it’s also a hardware store of fasteners. The leaf spring bolts are almost exactly what is needed to mount the axle brace ..except they have a shoulder near the head of the bolt that is wider than the needed 1/2 inch. We can’t let that stop us . I loaded the bolt into the lathe.



After a few turns we had the 1/2 inch bolt that was needed.



This is going to work just fine as a temporary solution.



Once the bolts were snug I almost had all the threads on the leaf spring bolts. Pretty nice! I’m sure the bolts in the kit will show up as soon as I find the box i moved them into.



Ok that’s done.




Time to move the axle under the truck. Now it’s really heavy. Casters help here to roll the axle with wheels attached.

[J R Jones]

Careful with bolts. The shank length/diameter is engineered for stretch at torque.
Bolt strength is in part the result of surface hardening.
jim

[RoadRacer]

A tip I use - put a blue dot on the bolts that are torqued. So later you can quickly see the ones you haven't.. like these "temp" ones you'll forget to replace

[Papa]

Now the truck is getting heavy. The frame motor and cab are getting to be a bit much for the casters. The factory five provided casters worked great with the frame and motor, but the cab was the straw that broke the camels back. Rolling the cab became much more difficult.

I tried another set of casters I have, also not rated for 1,500 lbs each. The rubber tires rolled a little bit better on the pavement .



It’s time to put the wheels back on. I’ll start with the rear axle. After clipping off the shock supports that will not be used.





Next the rear cover comes off and the axle brace is installed and cover replaced. Ford uses M9-1 bolts on the housing. These bolts are nearly impossible to find! Factory five sourced them , however they are not ready. I figured rather than waiting id just get some from McMaster Car. They dont even stock them! Oh well I’ll just use the Ford bolts. They are too short, but I can still catch 4 or 5 threads. Enough to compress the RTV sealant

Big gears in this 9.75 rear.



I got the 3.73 electronic locking rear differential as part of the FX 4 package.

After the housing bolts are installed next you need to drill out the spring pads to accept the mounting bolts for the axle brace.




Slow drill speed and cutting oil and it’s not a terrible job. Just takes some time.

I found some expensive M9-1 bolts that are 30mm long here:

2pcs M9 x 1 x 30 mm Titanium Ti Screw Fine Thread Bolt Allen Hex Socket Cap Head/Aerospace Grade https://a.co/d/fk9tauv

[kabacj]

A tip I use - put a blue dot on the bolts that are torqued. So later you can quickly see the ones you haven't.. like these "temp" ones you'll forget to replace

Great advice James.

Careful with bolts. The shank length/diameter is engineered for stretch at torque.
Bolt strength is in part the result of surface hardening.
jim

You are right Jim. Who knows what the specifications for the bolt were before I modified it and now that it’s been trimmed down. I’m not a materials engineer, however the suspension of a 6,000lb truck that will be airborne is probably not the place to experiment with bolt strength.

I found some expensive M9-1 bolts that are 30mm long here:

2pcs M9 x 1 x 30 mm Titanium Ti Screw Fine Thread Bolt Allen Hex Socket Cap Head/Aerospace Grade https://a.co/d/fk9tauv

Thanks Papa, Those were the only ones I could find as well, however they are pretty expensive for a temporary solution. I was sure ARP or someone would make a bolt for this application. The Ford Performance cast iron cover is both stiffer and also holds more fluid. In theory the added stiffness will stabilize the differential and the added volume will aid in cooling. It seems Factory Five had to special order the 9M-1 bolts as the size is not common.

Thanks guys for the input.