Like so many others, from what I’ve seen on the forums, I’m not thrilled with the position of the Whitby pedal. When bleeding, it was hitting the front of the foot box before the crossmember behind the pedal arm could stop the travel. And it sits way low with an odd angle.
So there will be some modification to that in the future—not sure whether I want to torch and bend it, cut and reweld it, or modify the Wilwood pedal for use with the system. I’ll likely start with the Wilwood pedal mod first and see how I like it, since the pedal is in my unused parts bin anyway.
I also got the Forte QR windshield brackets installed, along with my Aeromotive Fuel filter. I still can’t finish the fuel system though, because some of the fittings are on back order with Summit.
Once I get the pedal situation squared away, I guess I’ll move on to the wiring harness next, which should fill up a good amount of time while I’m waiting on the fuel fittings. I also need to figure out how I’m going to do the foot box vent fans.
Last edited by Mbufford; 01-21-2024 at 09:29 PM.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
I had a little time to tinker in the garage this evening before the wife got home. I originally planned on just trying to mock up some options for the Wilwood pedal mod. But, I ended up liking the first thing I came up with, so I’m keeping it. I will, however keep the Whitby pedal just in case this setup fails for some reason.
Since I was just tinkering, I didn’t take any in-process pictures. But basically, I just took a chunk of 5/8 steel rod I had sitting around (same diameter as the eye on the booster pushrod), drilled and tapped through it, drilled the pedal after figuring out where it should go, and bolted it on with a grade-8 5/16 bolt. I put it in the pedal box, and as soon as I hooked the eye on it, I decided to keep it like that. So, I removed it, drilled a hole for a cotter pin, and reinstalled.
I had a little time to tinker in the garage this evening before the wife got home. I originally planned on just trying to mock up some options for the Wilwood pedal mod. But, I ended up liking the first thing I came up with, so I’m keeping it. I will, however keep the Whitby pedal just in case this setup fails for some reason.
Since I was just tinkering, I didn’t take any in-process pictures. But basically, I just took a chunk of 5/8 steel rod I had sitting around (same diameter as the eye on the booster pushrod), drilled and tapped through it, drilled the pedal after figuring out where it should go, and bolted it on with a grade-8 5/16 bolt. I put it in the pedal box, and as soon as I hooked the eye on it, I decided to keep it like that. So, I removed it, drilled a hole for a cotter pin, and reinstalled.
fantastic idea on the pedal - you should send this to whitby, maybe they'll take your idea so folks don't run into this anymore - it blows my mind how far back that pedal sits, it's just unsafe in stock form
Over the last couple of weeks I haven’t had much time on the car. But I did manage to get the wiring harness mostly in place. I did have a fairly productive weekend with the wife out of town and rain all weekend.
1st—the ABS module mount I made was originally painted with VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. After my bleeding episode, it got some brake fluid on it and ruined the paint. So I painstakingly and carefully drilled the rivets and removed the mount from below. Over the past week, I ordered the Eastwood powder coating gun and materials. So, I stripped and coated the mount, and reinstalled. Much better now! IMG_0883.jpeg
From there, I moved on to installing the ABS wiring. As a side note, I wanted to have an ABS warning indicator in case something goes wrong with the system in the future. I searched and searched, and hadn’t found anyone who’d pulled this off. So, I started downloading Ford schematics and figured out that the only way to have an ABS light with the 2007-09 Mustang systems is to have the instrument cluster module. So, I went to a junk yard and pulled the IC from a 2008. I disassembled the cluster, chunked all the housing pieces, removed all the needles and other parts that stand off from the circuit board, removed the ABS warning LED and soldered on lead wires to the terminals. I wrapped the whole thing in tape to avoid any off-chance shorting potential. IMG_0882.jpg
Then I got some sheet aluminum and built a box for it. IMG_0881.jpg
I hadn’t put much thought into where I would locate the module until after I built and painted the box. After dancing around the car for a while, I realized that it’s almost perfect size to act as a dash support on the passenger side. So, that’s where it went. IMG_0884.jpgIMG_0885.jpgIMG_0886.jpg
Having everything else roughly wired in for the system, I figured now would be a good time to test the system before wrapping and securing the wire harness I put together for the system. So I made some temporary connections with different wires to simulate the car with the ignition on, hooked up to Forscan, and ran all my checks. I’m happy to report that everything is normal, just as it was when I had it set up on my test bench. I was also able to verify that all 4 wheel speed sensors are functioning by manually rotating the brake rotors and watching the Forscan monitor. And the ABS light works perfectly—if I disconnect one of the power wires or a wheel sensor, the light comes on and disappears when I remedy the problem. So, I went forward with finalizing the wiring harness and clamping it all down. IMG_0887.jpg
I’m still waiting on back ordered fittings before I can run my fuel lines. But I did get some tandem hose clamps off amazon a couple weeks ago. Only problem is that they’re shiny metal. And I want them to have the black rubber like the clamps that came with the kit. So, I played around with some heat shrink, and they turned out pretty good. IMG_0888.jpg
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
I’ve been really bad about not posting updates. So, this will cover everything I’ve done in the last month. So, I’m going to have to do a few posts to catch up, since we’re limited to 10 pictures per post.
I finished all of the electrical work, except for engine wiring (I don’t have my coyote, computer, and harness yet) and gauges (I’ve ordered a waterfall bubinga veneer for the dash, and will do all the gauges after that’s finished). As part of this work, I set everything up to be controlled by relays and switched by billet buttons.
I also set up some blue LEDs for my courtesy lights under the dash, as well as some in the engine bay and another under the trunk. I mounted a couple of the lights on the center dash mount I made, and also added a USB multi-port, and a dimmer knob for the dash lights. I also set up my battery disconnect. (Edit: I just realized this picture is upside down, which could be very confusing! This is the center dash support and the disconnect is on the panel in front of the tunnel)
I also set up a hidden switch to disable starting the car. Though I have the battery disco, I wanted a security measure like this so I don’t have to routinely switch off the disconnect every time I go anywhere.
I set up and tested my ie427 turn signal, which fits and works great. I wasn’t a big fan of the bare aluminum parts, so I powder coated them. Looks much better.
I finally got my fuel lines done. After getting tired of waiting for the back-ordered fittings to come in, I cancelled the order gathered the hose and fittings I did receive, and drove off to Summit Racing. I was able to return the parts and walk out with everything I needed. I had previously installed my fuel regulator, pump, and filter. So, this was just a matter of building the lines and connecting them. I had already ordered some tandem line clamps, so I powder coated them and got everything installed this weekend.
I capped the outlet on the fuel regulator and engaged the pump to leak-test the system. I count myself lucky that I got no leaks the first time around!
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
I also set up the foot box vent systems. They’re operated by a single button and a dpdt relay for each side. Activating the switch engages the fan and the electric valve to open, and turning the switch off engages the valve close. Surprising how much air these move.
I also got around to doing some sheet metal work today, notably getting the passenger side floor in, and got a patch put together to close off the ebrake hole.
Last edited by Mbufford; 03-11-2024 at 11:13 AM.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
This is another long-overdue post. Most of this is essentially my running notes from when I was figuring out the ABS before I got my kit. I’ve also added some updates where appropriate.
As I plan my soon-to-start build, I’ve been trying to plan as carefully as possible. I’ve identified certain thing I absolutely will modify from the kit. Among those things is adding ABS and traction control. So, my education starts. I’ve spent many hours researching the options. And I’ve settled on a build with the late 2000s ABS unit, alongside a RaceTCS, using the same sensors.
RaceTCS just released the V3. I looked around and there is really not any info available about the new unit. the best part of the V2, which they’re still offering, is that you can connect it to a laptop to run the programming. There’s no info about the V3, other than what’s on their website, and nothing indicates you can plug a usb into it. I messaged them asking if you can interface a laptop with the V3.
RaceTCS responded to my message, and apparently, the V3 does exactly the same thing as V2, and has a usb cord integrated into the wiring harness. But, the V3 box is sealed, so it can be mounted in locations like under the hood. With my intended mounting spot, this isn’t needed. But, see the updated notes below re: using V3 with the Coyote.
The 2015 IRS speed sensors, BRAB406, work alongside the 2007-09 front sensors, BRAB291, with the 2008 GT500 HCU in John George’s setup. There have been several posts showing this setup working across the forums, and responses asking about why the system will take the 50-T front signal along with the 80-T rear signal and operate okay, with no real explanations. I suspect this happens because the ABS module logic is just looking for the presence of a signal, a 1 or a 0, as opposed to differential signals (i.e. 40khz vs 80khz) like a traction control does. Granted, this is purely speculation. But John’s setup works, and this is the only rational reason I can think of.
I’d been keeping an eye on eBay for the 2007-2009 GT500 ABS module and HCU for some time because I’ve read they’re getting hard to find in good condition. I ran across one that looks like the car barely had any miles before it was wrecked. Seller told me the donor car had 87k on it. The wiring harness was still with it too—big score from what I’ve read. Others who had to order a harness had to use a different part number and move some wires. With this, I should be able to just splice and move on the next part. Got the set for $150 shipped, which seems a good deal from the condition and price I’ve seen on similar units. The top shell of the connector is cracked at the neck, but I taped it up and it works. If I run across one at a salvage yard, I’ll replace it. But it’s nothing I’ll lose sleep over. (Update: I found one at a salvage yard).
Since I want to also add the RaceTCS system, I may need the front and rear reluctor rings to be the same number of teeth-because traction controllers generally need equal inputs to measure against one another. If I were just planning to do the ABS, then I wouldn’t need to worry about modifying the rear setup. But, running both systems parallel off the same sensors, should work—I’ve seen where others have done similar things.
Since the BRAB291 front sensors work with this HCU, there’s no reason to think the BRAB290 rear sensors wouldn’t work as well. So, the only problem is getting 50-T reluctor rings for the rear to match up with the 50-T rings that come on the FFR front axle. I’ve found posts showing the rings on the cv stubs, and the sensors mounted on the pumpkin.
Seems easy enough—until I try finding the rings. I found some posts out there indicating the rings from T-Bird SC or the Mark VIII IRS will work.
So, I found a pair of takeoff MK VIII stubs with rings. It was $50 shipped for the set, so I figured why not. Assuming I can get the rings off without damaging them, they should fit on the FFR stubs—if I end up going that route.
I found in the RaceTCS V3 manual, that you can change the ring tooth count for each wheel. So, as long as the BRAB406 sensor will work with the TCS unit, I shouldn’t need to mess with rings at all. I believe the 406 is a VR sensor (as opposed to a 3-wire hall sensor) so it should work. I ordered the sensors and will need to bench test against abs and the tcs before installing both. Of course, I’ll need to get the RaceTCS module to do that…
I have the Forscan cable and software, but I need a 2005-2009 Mustang profile before I can connect to the unit for testing. I’ve asked for help on the Mustang forum and from Forscan support.
I was able to get a Mustang profile from Forscan support, which they asked me not to share with anyone because it was a customer-submitted profile and has his VIN. Though, the profile appears to be for a V6 Mustang—why would anyone buy such a thing!? If I run into any problems with testing once it’s fully set up, I’ll just go “test drive” a 2007-2008 GT500 and plug in to “make sure there’s no codes” and get the profile. plus, I’d get to play with a GT500 for a few minutes.
With the profile issue, I think I’ll just find a 2009 GT for sale and do the test drive profile capture. I’m also considering picking up a used instrument cluster to see if I can turn it into a useable module for the cobra to give me the abs warning light. From what my research has shown, that is the only way to get a warning light on this version of ABS because it is operated as a can bus command from the ABS to the instrument cluster.
Updates: I did go test drive a 2008 GT500 for the profile, which worked just fine. Also, as previously mentioned in another post, I did get the instrument cluster. I removed everything from it, and soldered some lead wires to the ABS light terminals, and it tested perfectly when hooked up to my new ABS warning LED (If I disconnect a sensor or interrupt any of the various power inputs, the light comes on). I still don’t have the RaceTCS because I still don’t have my engine, and, by the looks of it, I’ll end up having to go with a gen 4 Coyote. Since they haven’t tested and verified functionality on the gen4 yet, I’ll hold off on ordering that unit until they have verified that it will work. I did go ahead and run a cable spliced into the sensor wires, and I have power and ground available near where the unit will be mounted. So, I can drop it in at anytime without any difficulty, even after the build is complete.
Last edited by Mbufford; 03-11-2024 at 11:14 AM.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
Thanks. I’m getting dangerously close to not having much left that I can accomplish without my power train. With the coyote limbo happening now, and my lack of funds to buy now, I’m thinking I’ll drop the body on and start on the body work while I save up for the power train.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
You’re doing some amazing work!! Can’t wait to see the finished car. You’re not too far from me. I live in Whitesboro. My plan or hope, is to do the build school and place an order early next year.
You’re doing some amazing work!! Can’t wait to see the finished car. You’re not too far from me. I live in Whitesboro. My plan or hope, is to do the build school and place an order early next year.
Thank you, and welcome to the fold. We have a great network of local builders in DFW. While you’re waiting, and presumably saving, to make your order.
I’d suggest you take the time between now and then to get your shop/garage ready for the build, get whatever tools are needed that you don’t already have, and work on getting a chassis dolly and body buck ready for delivery day. Once I get my wheels powder coated and get tires mounted in the next several months, I’ll be done with my dolly and would be happy to pass it along to you (I got it from one of the other local builders).
One thing I wish I had set up before I got my kit is the ability to powder coat smaller parts at home. I just got the Eastwood dual voltage gun and a largish toaster over about a month ago, and it’s been super useful. For the larger parts and panels, we have a great PC company in Dallas that is very cost effective for large quantity jobs, like all the panels at once.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
Thank you. Would you mind providing the PC company in Dallas? I’m making a list of extra tools to make things easy now and trying to make a list of things people have done that I want do on my build (when i get to that point).
Thank you. Would you mind providing the PC company in Dallas? I’m making a list of extra tools to make things easy now and trying to make a list of things people have done that I want do on my build (when i get to that point).
The company is Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas. It’ll be a bit of a drive for you, but the savings is worth it—I had ALL of my panels done for $300. As for extra tools that are handy to have, the list is long and there have been some previous posts about that topic. One of the things I have, which I haven’t seen mentioned, that has been used a tremendous amount is a work bench DC power supply. I’ve used that thing to test (and troubleshoot where needed) every component and electrical system on the car before buttoning them up. In the same vein, a decent multimeter is a must. It doesn’t have to be a high-end Fluke or anything, and even an old analog style would work fine.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
The company is Crosslink Powder Coating in Dallas. It’ll be a bit of a drive for you, but the savings is worth it—I had ALL of my panels done for $300. As for extra tools that are handy to have, the list is long and there have been some previous posts about that topic. One of the things I have, which I haven’t seen mentioned, that has been used a tremendous amount is a work bench DC power supply. I’ve used that thing to test (and troubleshoot where needed) every component and electrical system on the car before buttoning them up. In the same vein, a decent multimeter is a must. It doesn’t have to be a high-end Fluke or anything, and even an old analog style would work fine.
The one I have is a Vlifree DCP5A. If I were buying it for this project, I’d get something with a higher current capacity than 5 amps. But, this one has worked—it just doesn’t have enough current to operate multiple systems at once—and it barely works the E-Stopp brake.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
Made some ground this weekend, as I work toward getting the chassis ready for the body to go on. I finished up the majority of the metal—I think I have everything on that I need for the body to go on, except for the dash.
Speaking of the dash, I got my veneer laid down, trimmed up, and the first sealer coat applied. I’ll have to sand it and apply another sealer coat tomorrow. The next day, I’ll start the varnish coats. I should have it ready for gauges and installation by next weekend.
Looking really good. Love the dash. What is the red electrical block you have on top of the passenger side foot box? I like how have your wiring nice and neat.
Looking really good. Love the dash. What is the red electrical block you have on top of the passenger side foot box? I like how have your wiring nice and neat.
Thank you!
The red block is just a terminal buss bar for my battery power. Instead of running multiple wires to the alternator, they all run to the bar, and I’ll just have one 4 gauge wire running to the alternator. It’s electrically the same as the standard install, it just cleans up wiring a bit. You should also be able to see in some of the other pictures that I put ACC power and ground buss bars behind the dash as well. This is for the same reason—just to make the wiring easier and cleaner.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
The one I have is a Vlifree DCP5A. If I were buying it for this project, I’d get something with a higher current capacity than 5 amps. But, this one has worked—it just doesn’t have enough current to operate multiple systems at once—and it barely works the E-Stopp brake.
Yeah, a 10-amp supply should be sufficient for most purposes—I just wouldn’t try to start the car with it! Even for applications that would draw more than 10 amps, like a heater, it will still generally function, just not to its potential.
As an example, if I dial back to 3 amps and hit the e-stopp, it will still trigger and actuate. It just won’t fully engage. At 1amp it will trigger on and barely move, but will not cycle off. Even at 5a, it doesn’t engage fully, but does enough for me to test and set the system. I spent more time than I should have playing with that, but I was curious.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
Not much of an update. I bit off a bit more that I knew with varnishing my veneered dash. I had no idea how temperamental of a finish that stuff is. Long story short, I applied what was supposed to be my final coat in my “dust free” booth immediately after I set it up, and ended up with dust all over the finish. So, I sanded the next day and applied a new final coat. Apparently high humidity is a very bad thing for varnish until cured. Yesterday, I completely stripped it and started over.
On the good side of things, in collaboration with Mike Bray, we got this steering wheel emblem together and I love it. Mike designed it and had it 3d printed, and I sanded/polished/painted. IMG_1117.jpeg
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
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Originally Posted by Mbufford
