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Moderator
Autocross shocks…
This a special case, I get that, but for those of you running autocross with probably much stiffer springs than stock (800/450 for me), are adjustable shocks are worthwhile purchase?
I drive my car on the road regularly so being adjustable seems like it would give me flexibility to adjust on track days. And/or do more tuning
Today I have the stock cheap non adjustable konis. Not sure if roadsters are the same but there are also a different color adjustable koni option for hot rod. So another question would be.. are those still the correct one for these stiffer springs or would I need a differently valved shock for 800lb springs? Also hear of qa1 and Viking..
I can only imagine I’d get a lot of math if I tried to speak to a shock company but figured the roadster/coupe autox guys could give me pointers since we’re so similar?
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Hi James, Re: Adjustable Shocks and varied car usage....................
When I was still using #007 for track days I found the adjustable QA1 shocks worked really nicely. I set them stiffer for the track which did two things: 1) improved turn-in at the corners and 2) got the "floaty" feeling above 100MPH to go away.
When I was through, I just set all four shocks back to their 'street' settings for comfy daily driving. With AutoCross you probably won't be reaching very high top speeds so #2 above may not matter. But, #1 will be important.
I'm using the single adjustable QA1 shocks. There's 18 positions for the valve adjustments from full soft to full firm. For the street I set the fronts at 3 clicks from full soft and the rears at 4 clicks from soft. For the track I used to set the rears to 8 clicks from soft and the fronts at 6 clicks. That tamed the car at speed and still allowed for track irregularities.
Hope this helps,
Tom
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Moderator
Helps a lot Tom thanks. Curious what springs you ran?
I also do some track work but not much. It a a lot more expensive than in Europe where track time was cheap!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Member
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
This a special case, I get that, but for those of you running autocross with probably much stiffer springs than stock (800/450 for me), are adjustable shocks are worthwhile purchase?
I drive my car on the road regularly so being adjustable seems like it would give me flexibility to adjust on track days. And/or do more tuning
Today I have the stock cheap non adjustable konis. Not sure if roadsters are the same but there are also a different color adjustable koni option for hot rod. So another question would be.. are those still the correct one for these stiffer springs or would I need a differently valved shock for 800lb springs? Also hear of qa1 and Viking..
I can only imagine I’d get a lot of math if I tried to speak to a shock company but figured the roadster/coupe autox guys could give me pointers since we’re so similar?
Hey Road Racer.
Shocks have a range that they will adequately control a spring. Outside that range you need a re valve.
Yes you can get into the wheel motion ratios and stuff like that, but I would consider the surface you are driving on and what your goal is.
Autocross is normally on pretty smooth pavement, not going over corner curbs or braking into rippled pavement on a race track.
Your shocks need to do less work to keep the wheels on the ground.
You can add stiffer springs to control body roll and weight transfer but again depending on your situation for autocross you might want to consider anti roll bars instead.
Unless you are having difficulty controlling the pitching of the car weight when hard braking you will be amazed at how much bite you can control with a good ARB.
XTF #2
build start date June 19 2023
GTM # 344
Build Start December 2010
First track day April 2013
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Moderator
Yeah I have front and rear sway bars already.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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James,
I've run the QA-1 single adjust on my Superformance cars. Nice shocks and many friends were running them or the QA-1 double adjust.
I've talked to the tech guys at Viking. http://www.vi-king.com/default.asp
They have single, double, triple and soon quad adjust units. Viking has good tech articles on their shocks & tuning on the site.
I'm a ways off from needing shocks but my plan is to run their double adjust Berserker Series as these were recommended for a track/street setup.
Jim
2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.
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Moderator
Thanks Jim, I’ll give them a call and see how that goes
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Helps a lot Tom thanks. Curious what springs you ran?
I had 9" x 450lb/in on the fronts and variable rate 12" x 175-350lb/in rears.
Since I no longer "track' the car, I've dropped rates to 9" x 350lb/in at the fronts and have 12" x 250lb/In at the rear. I use a little bit higher shock stiffness both front and rear with the softer springs. I made this change a year+ ago before heading off on the 2600 mile 2022 Hot Rod Power Tour. The more compliant ride was just right for my aging carcass!
Best wishes,
Tom
PS: Remember that I live in the Northern Tundra where roads suffer from Freeze/Thaw cycles each year. (Wisconsin) So, ride comfort was a pretty big priority back when I first started driving #007.
Last edited by Tom Veale; 09-08-2023 at 09:42 AM.
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Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Yeah I have front and rear sway bars already.
WHere can one get these mystical sway bars?
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
Just 1 More
WHere can one get these mystical sway bars?
The easiest answer is to read my build thread.. neither are “off the shelf”.. but they’re close to it. Minimal fabrication and zero welding..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Just to post here, I've had some conversations in DM's here, and QA1's (double adjustable) seem recommended, so I'm looking into those..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Just to post here, I've had some conversations in DM's here, and QA1's (double adjustable) seem recommended, so I'm looking into those..
I just got mine from MCBParts.com, they are cheaper than anyone, Call them, Tell Kim Frank sent you. QA1 shocks # DD403 and QA1 Spring Caps 9018-113.
Last edited by Just 1 More; 09-12-2023 at 02:47 PM.
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I got the DBL ADJ black Koni's on my car and I would say the car gets used mostly on the street with 3-4 auto x events and a couple track events a yr on average. When I first got them It didn't seam that bad to remove one end of each shock to adjust while changing the track wheels and tires. But that became chore. I run the Koni's at a point were it is making the street ride just a little more harsh than I would like but that makes it a les than optimum on auto x. Sway bar's stiff as I can make them tunning with the rear bar and tire pressures only at events, true run what I brung. Wish I would have bought the QA-1's I think they would be reachable without jacking the car, maybe not I don't know. Anybody else know? seams pertinent to the shock topic at hand.
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Originally Posted by
Matt Ries
I got the DBL ADJ black Koni's on my car and I would say the car gets used mostly on the street with 3-4 auto x events and a couple track events a yr on average. When I first got them It didn't seam that bad to remove one end of each shock to adjust while changing the track wheels and tires. But that became chore. I run the Koni's at a point were it is making the street ride just a little more harsh than I would like but that makes it a les than optimum on auto x. Sway bar's stiff as I can make them tunning with the rear bar and tire pressures only at events, true run what I brung. Wish I would have bought the QA-1's I think they would be reachable without jacking the car, maybe not I don't know. Anybody else know? seams pertinent to the shock topic at hand.
As far as the QA1's being reachable, you mount them upside down to put the adjusting knobs at the top.
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