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Thread: Tell me about QA1 shocks

  1. #1
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    Tell me about QA1 shocks

    Hope all had a great holiday!

    Hear many on here talking about QA1 shocks.
    Picking up my ‘33 in a couple of weeks. Is there an issue with the Koni’s that come with the kit?
    I’m doing full fenders, so I will assume that I will want more ride height. Will the Koni’s do it?
    Tires I’m thinking of are 305/25/20 rear and 245/40/18 up front
    TIA
    Guy

  2. #2

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    No nothing wrong with the stock konis.

    Like all upgrades the qa1’s are “better and adjustable” (I just upgraded to qa1’s after 3 years on konis) but you may never need them.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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    I would wait until you have the car built and have a few miles on it before making a decision on whether you want to upgrade.

    My Speedstar is still is not finished but I have been driving it around the neighborhood and so far I find the front suspension fine as is but the rear appears to be pretty harsh. I will likely go with a softer spring in the rear but won't make that decision until I have a couple hundred miles on it.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
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    I upgraded to QA1s and it was best decision I could have made. Konis are hard to adjust and honestly the only thing that can be adjusted on them is the ride height, there is no way to adjust the compression & rebound like on QA1s. Also, it's a whole lot easier to swap them during the build than after the 33 is done. Just my opinioons.

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

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  8. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    I upgraded to QA1s and it was best decision I could have made. Konis are hard to adjust and honestly the only thing that can be adjusted on them is the ride height, there is no way to adjust the compression & rebound like on QA1s. Also, it's a whole lot easier to swap them during the build than after the 33 is done. Just my opinioons.

    Jim
    Jim is absolutely correct. Mines not on the road yet but doing the swap now was easier than doing it once built. And if you're asking about it, you already know you want to do it.
    QA1 shocks # DD403 and QA1 Spring Caps 9018-113, QA1-9HT400 springs. I bought mine from Matt and Kim at MCBparts.com cheaper than anywhere else you'll find.
    20231024_193059.jpg

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    The rear shocks on my 33 are so harsh that the wheels come off the ground when I hit bumps. I think they are simply unsafe. My QA1s are going on this weekend. To change the shocks you will need to cut a hole in the trunk to access the bolts. I already did this when changing the springs. There is a post stating that the mounts on the axle will need to be modified (cut down a little for spring clearance) I will find out shortly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Gompper View Post
    To change the shocks you will need to cut a hole in the trunk to access the bolts. I already did this when changing the springs. There is a post stating that the mounts on the axle will need to be modified (cut down a little for spring clearance) I will find out shortly.
    Is that a Gen 1 thing because my Gen 2 has all kinds of room to access the top shock mounts. Also, FFR supplied an 8" long spring. There is ample room without modification for a 10" long spring and may be even 12" long spring.

  11. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgc333 View Post
    Is that a Gen 1 thing because my Gen 2 has all kinds of room to access the top shock mounts. Also, FFR supplied an 8" long spring. There is ample room without modification for a 10" long spring and may be even 12" long spring.
    I just swapped mine on my Gen 2, went with DD701 and a 12HT250 12" spring. No need for cutting any holes for access.

  12. #9
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    How much do yall figure for a full QA1 swap? about $2,000?

    Might be worth it for the double adjustability.
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  13. #10
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    Mike,
    Just FYI: if you have your part numbers, Kim @ MCBParts.com was able to get me QA1's cheaper than anyone else. Shoot her an email and see what she can do for you. [email protected]

  14. #11
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    Cutting holes may depend on if you have a straight axle. I changed all 4 Koni’s on my Gen 1 without any cutting, but that may be cuz I’ve got the IRS setup.

    The other problem with the Koni’s is changing the ride height. It’s almost impossible to hold the black tube (lack of access in the front) while you are trying to adjust the ring nut with the spanner wrench.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  15. #12

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    I cut a hole to remove mine more easily. Not strictly necessary but I don’t have a full lift (quickjack lifts it ~12-18”?) so cutting a small hole make removal of bolts easier (and I don’t care about the hole) I cut mine in the vertical panel behind the wheel.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  16. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The other problem with the Koni’s is changing the ride height. It’s almost impossible to hold the black tube (lack of access in the front) while you are trying to adjust the ring nut with the spanner wrench.
    Gee, I use the spanner to hold the adjustment ring and turn the threaded sleeve by hand to adjust the ride height. There is so little room up front to try and turn the spanner. I do let the wheels hang free when I do this.

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