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Engine Accessability
It seems like the sequence of events is to build chassis, install engine and powertrain, then drop body on top
When you are done it looks like it is very hard to get to the engine to ever service anything after you have built it
How common is it to pop the entire body off when doing repairs (so long as you have a hoist) ?
If you designed it correctly at the initial build, with a few major bolts and nice quick connects for all the wiring ....has anyone done that?
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Depends on the engine you put in. If it's a Windsor small block, it's not a big deal. Probably better access than a late model Mustang. It's pretty easy to pull the engine without even taking he hood off.
But with a Coyote, FE, or (worse) a Lima motor, access can be quite difficult.
Taking the body off will literally take all day and 2-3 people. If you're lucky.
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I expect to remove the body when necessary.
Jim
2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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If you are doing a Coyote build, try to add accessibility features during the build.
While I am not building a MK4 right now, I have made some mods to my 1970 Mustang Coyote powered restomod to make the engine as serviceable as possible. One example, to remove the alternator, you must rotate the alternator toward the left side frame rail. I added a notch to the frame rail in my Mustang to accommodate room for the rotation. I have a hydroboost system in the Mustang and it would be PITA, to say the least, to raise the engine off its mounts in order to remove the alternator otherwise. Other mods to consider would be to have access panels for the Wilwood master cylinders if so equipped.
Good luck with your build and planning for serviceability.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
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Senior Member
Removing the body is not hard if you assembled it with that in-mind (make sure to install quick-disconnects on the lights), but it is time-consuming.
My body is currently off while re-installing my fresh 347 build, installing a new firewall, re-routing heater hoses and installing a mechanical throttle linkage, and some changes behind the dash.
If it's a SBF, it's easier to service it with the body on. If it's a Coyote or similar, depending on the issue, it could be a wash to remove the body, just more work. (for the record, I hate installing the windshield)
Last edited by MPTech; 01-03-2024 at 11:33 PM.
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
MPTech
for the record, I hate installing the windshield
These are gold for the windshield. https://fortesparts.com/product/fact...ield-brackets/
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Post Thanks / Like - 2 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Originally Posted by
MPTech
(for the record, I hate installing the windshield)
Don't we all. Worse yet is replacing it after one cracks, just adds pain in the wallet too.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
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Senior Member
If you're doing major engine work, e.g. an overhaul, maybe pulling the body is an option. But (a) it's possible to pull the engine with the body on, and (b) don't underestimate the effort to pull the body. Lights, yes. But also windshield, doors, side pipes, roll bar(s), front and rear quick jacks or bumpers, hood, trunk lid, splash guards, you get the idea. And don't forget possible wear and tear and what is usually a more expensive than you thought paint job. I would never consider pulling the body for routine maintenance. Changing oil, spark plugs, etc. have varying degrees of difficulty depending on the engine. But all still very manageable and not remotely worth removing the body.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
I had to replace my engine block mid build and though it is not a Ford power plant removing it was not an issue with the body on.
The good news is is I have tons of friends & family that love to wrench on anything which causes us to often get in each other's way.
What Happened:
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
Removal:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k
Reinstallation:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8
Just be careful and try to not step on your pal's toes when tackling the task.
Also, watch your pinkies and other squishable body parts.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 01-05-2024 at 08:20 AM.
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Not a waxer
Although working alone I can have a body off 2 hours after driving a car into the shop (done it a time or 2 ) I wouldn't do it. Also, it won't go back together nearly as quickly...we're talking 8+ hours for reassembly, adjustment, etc.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 01-05-2024 at 09:28 AM.
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Senior Member
Mark, change the windshield, or change an oil pan?
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint