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Parts not supplied by FFR
Hi, new to forum, will order the Mark IV kit next month, after reading parts of different builds, it seems like a lot of people change out various parts for other vendors parts or the parts weren稚 supplied by FFR. Does anyone have a list of what additional parts I need to purchase or replace from another vendor, and if replacing, why so? Just trying to soak it all in. I知 really looking forward to building this bad *** car. I知 old so it will be my last project. I知 retired, so hope to finish within a year. Thanks for help and info.
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I found this thread that might help:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Upgraded-Parts
As for what isn't included in the complete kit:
1. Engine
2. Transmission
3. Rear end
4. Wheels & tires
5. Battery
6. Paint & body work
7. Shipping
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Papa
And then you discover Breeze
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 3 Likes
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Many decisions will be based on what you want the car to be when completed. A street cruiser will be different from a track car.
What are you planning to start with, the base kit or complete kit? What engine are you planning? Transmission? 3-Link, 4-Link or IRS? Brakes?
It's good to get the plan organized ahead of time but don't assume that the plan will be static.
Please tell us where you are located. This helps other owners identify if they can assist face to face.
Welcome to the party. I'm old too. Retired and not sure when I'll finishing my build.
Jim
2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.
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I am moving back to Oregon by the end of next month, will order Mark4 complete kit then. Haven’t decided between a built version of 302 or built 351, but will be with Tremec 5speed. Street use only, reaction time too slow for the track. As others in the forum have said 400 to 450 horsepower in this light a car could be a handful, so motor won’t be extreme. I’ve read a lot of really informative posts on the forum, I’m sure I will read many more before completion. It seems like people like the Wilwood pedal box and Forte accelerator linkgage. Thanks for the replies.
L
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Senior Member
1969Camaro
Welcome to the forum and to "the build".
My kit completion date is Feb 24. Stewart Transport called me on the 14th to tell me they plan to pick up the kit on the 21st and have it here in Oregon by the end of the month. I'm located about 30 miles SW of Portland. I'll be blazing the trail for you. Also there is another builder about 10 miles from me. When your kit arrives reach out and we'll try to connect.
Rebostar
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Welcome, many here swap out the FFR side pipes because they have been described as painfully loud and most end up wearing ear plugs while driving with them. You can get a credit on your order if you tell FFR that you do not want them. Most here replace them with Gas-N side pipes which from what I have read they are beautiful pipes and they have a different pitch or tone to them then the FFR pipes which is easier on the ears. I already have tinnitus (ringing in the ears) so I opted for the Boig Quiet Pipes. From what I read they seem to bring the decibels down a little lower than the Gas-N. I think they sound great and look great. They are loud enough to send a message, but also will not bother you on long drives. The only downside is that they come in bare steal and they need to be finished. One other upside is that mine bolted on to my FFR headers without the use of shims. They were a perfect fit. Good luck on your journey and enjoy every minute of it.
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Other than the side pipes, what should I not order with the kit that another vendors part is better? Still haven’t decided on which engine, and whether to go with the original look 15in wheels or the 17. Another question, what do most of the members do about the aluminum panels, powder coat or paint, would need to do that before start drilling holes. Breeze does make some cool things, such as the cubby hole and fan shroud, and battery relocater. Ideas appreciated, don’t want to buy same part twice.
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Senior Member
mark and drill your panels before painting/powdercoating. I painted mine w/ rustoleum hammered paint, but I know lots of others will powder coat. I painted any wheel well sides with truck bed liner. Others will polish w/ scotchbrite and coat w/ sharkhide to keep the aluminum look to the panels.
recommended products that I used:
From Breeze: upper and lower radiator mounts, radiator shroud, seat mounts, front battery box, offset steering rack bushings, lower radiator tube bracket
From Forte: mechanical throttle linkage, custom braided SS fuel lines
From Everson: front radiator aluminum, seat belt bezels, steering column trim bezel
probably more that I'm not thinking of
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Now you've done it! You just gave up permission to help you spend your money, not that we usually wait for permission anyway.
My recommendations:
Get ALL the Breeze radiator stuff (top & bottom mounts, shroud, cowl piece).
Breeze seat mounts.
Use WeatherPack connections on all your lights. Mike Everson offers a kit and provides a loaner tool.
Gas-N pipes.
Russ Thompson (RIP) turn signal now produced by another person.
Things I wish I'd done:
Breeze front battery mount (I did the one in the trunk and it's a pain to replace the battery!)
Drop trunk
Heater/defroster (didn't need it in low-humidity Colorado, but moving to high-humidity Missouri and will likely regret not having a defroster for those early morning drives)
Last edited by Papa; 02-19-2024 at 03:07 PM.
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Senior Member
x2 on drilling all your aluminum before powdercoating. That's what I did, and they turned out great.
As for your original question, there are just so many variables and options, it's hard to give you a complete list of what you'll need to buy. But the basics have been covered. Check out Breeze Automotive for many additional parts that enhance our build, or make life easier. FWIW, I bought the complete kit with IRS and Coyote bits. I paid around $30k in April 2023. I'll have an additional $10k-$15k in options before I even buy an engine and tranny package, or bodywork and paint. I bought the Wilwood brake kit after the fact, and will soon buy wheels and tires. Also upgraded my gauges after the fact (spec'ed my complete kit with the zero-charge platinum gauges). I upgraded to some custom gauges from Speedhut for around $1500. I plan on having around $75k-$80k in mine when it's all said and done. I don't have a budget, fortunately. I just spend a chunk at a time, then wrench while I save more pennies for the next go-round of options, etc. It'll cost what it costs and it'll take as long as it takes. I'm having a blast building when I have time here and there.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago.
Got Corvettes out of my system, and now back after 18 years to build a MkIV.
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, 427 Stroker, Holley Sniper 2, Hyperspark, TKX, IRS, Wilwood Big Brakes
Here to learn, contribute, and have fun!
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More questions
I really appreciate all the responses to my posts, helping to decide on various parts. I initially was just going to go with the manual steering, a light car, why would you need power steering? After reading through various threads, it seems like a lot of builders are using power steering because of being able to get more castor with the power steering. I don稚 understand that. Are the front end parts completely different manual to power? Also it seems like a lot of the builders had issues making the powersteering pump fit without interfering with other parts. So that really leaves me in a quandary, what do I do? I知 not being cheap, who knows how much this build will cost when complete, but I refuse to pay $500 for a stupid mount for pump, that痴 ridiculous. Anyway, I知 glad there are a couple guys in Oregon just receiving their kits, if they will have me I will be on their doorstep, getting their advice in person. Thanks again for all the help.
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With a manual rack, most folks have 3-4 degrees of caster, as it gets more difficult to turn at low speed with more. With a power rack, this can be increased to 6-8, which provides a bit more stability for straight line driving.
the front suspension parts are the same for either setup, just the rack, ps pump and bracket, and front end belt assembly are different. Completely your call as to which you want but the reality is most of us are not professional drivers in our mid 20s so ps is a nice feature. I suspect it would also greatly assist resale if that ever arises.
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Senior Member
I have manual steering and only notice challenges when the car is stationary or moving really slowly (3 point turn, parallel parking, etc). Lots of hand over hand cranking of the wheel in these situations, but don't have any issues once the car starts rolling.
having more caster allows the car to track straighter at high speeds, but I have no issues w/ mine up to 80-90mph, and that's with a home alignment. Front suspension parts (upper control arms) also need to be shortened a bit to get more caster but otherwise the parts are the same.
EPAS is an intriguing option if you wanted something in between.
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Senior Member
My standard PS spiel: It's not about effort and your man card is safe. It's all about front end geometry. Yeah, makes it easier to park and get into the garage. But that's a secondary benefit. As already stated, other than the steering rack, no changed parts. Just different alignment specs. I've had both manual steering and power steering. The difference is dramatic. Won't build without it. For those that have manual steering and are happy with it, that's great. But I'll bet you would find the PS setup an improvement if you tried it. The pump setup varies a lot depending on the engine you're using. If you're planning one of the more common engine choices, there are demonstrated solutions. Don't know about $500 brackets. Agree that sounds expensive. But can't comment further. Given the cost of a build, and the difference it makes to the driving experience, I wouldn't leave power steering out for budget purposes. Find something else to cut if you have to.
Last edited by edwardb; 02-20-2024 at 02:44 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Not a waxer
What edwardb said. It’s not because the manual steering effort is too high, it’s because the power steering will also you to set the car up to drive better.
Jeff
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25th Anniversary #9772
here's my list of 'kit parts' and at the bottom of the page, my 'extra' parts - some are from vendors on the site like Breeze that augment the kit build tremendously, others are purely aesthetic/add-on choice
https://cobradreams.com/original-lis...-the-roadster/
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Senior Member
I find this question very interesting and you are getting some great responses here. I have been a student of these forums for many years but I really feel for the new builders jumping in and building. Sure it can be done as many do exactly that so keep asking questions! Breeze/Replicaparts.com/Forte are my top three sources for extras that improve the build quality. I will add two items to the list... if backup lights and windshield sprayers (to go with wipers) are required where you live you will have to source those items yourself. I'm using the mini cooper backup light as many before me have done. I noticed your comment on brackets for the steering pump and like you I had sticker shock when looking at accessory drive kits. I'm building up a 302 stroker and I have sourced all my accessory brackets from Mike Forte. If you want a serpentine system with tensioner he offeres a kit that fit the style of my build (no bling) and his prices beat everything else I could find. He has much more than listed on his website but you have to be patient when working with him.
Last edited by Jonathan D; 02-29-2024 at 08:30 AM.
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The following are the items I purchased from Breese:
70810 Gas Pedal Kit, Breeze EzeMount Dogleg with Wilwood style Pedal Pad ラ 1
70561 Engine Compartment Battery Mounting Kit, Mk3/3.1/4 Roadster ラ 1
70772 Radiator Fan Shroud for Roadster ラ 1
35455 Koolmat Insulation Kit for Mk4 Roadster, 14 piece ラ 1
70779 Hood Scoop Fastener Set with Acorn Nuts ラ 1
Wedgelock Pliers ラ 1
Wedgelock Temporary Fastener - 1/8" ラ 75
Wilwood Remote Brake Balance Bar Adjuster ラ 1
70752 Cockpit Storage Cubby Kit for Mk4 Roadster ラ 1
Offset Rack Mounting Kit for FFR Roadster and Coupe ラ 1
Wedgelock Temporary Fastener - 3/16" ラ 5
Billet Aluminum Side-View Mirror Set with Polished Finish, Made in USA ラ 1
70602 Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats ラ 1
70781 Power Steering Hose and Fitting Kit for use with Driver Side Mounted Ford Pump ラ 1
70805 LED Exterior Front Lighting Kit for Mk4 Roadsters that came with Rectangular LED Taillights ラ 1
70558 Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator/Shroud Mounting Kit ラ 1
70551 Lower Radiator Support Kit ラ 1
70753 Dead Pedal Kit ラ 1
Fuel Filter/Regulator and Single Line Kit for Sniper in Roadster (Direct Mount) ラ 1
70734 190 LPH In-Tank EFI Fuel Pump with 3/8" Outlet ラ 1
Radiator Cowl Cover Kit for use with FFR Hinges ラ 1
Dash Support Bracket Kit ラ 1
70748 Fuel Line Assembly, EFI Pump to Filter, 3/8" - 3/8" Quick Connect ラ 1
Craig
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