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Break Master Cylinder Leak
Hi all - during my initial test drives I noticed a couple drops of break fluid dropping into my driver foot box. I isolated the leak to the rear MC (I have dual setup). I popped the rod boot off and sure enough it had fluid in it and also a strange white gunk. I included a pic for reference. Anyone ever see this and/or have any idea what I’m dealing with here?
Thanks again for the tremendous support.
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Senior Member
The white gunk is grease, if you get fluid there in the boot, the seal is leaking or leaked when you first started. seems others have a shared experience in past posts.
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Senior Member
Agree likely the front seal is leaking. I had one do that too on the front brake MC in my Coupe. Upon close examination, the seal had a defect. Probably when it was molded. If a Wilwood, they have rebuild kits that replace everything except the housing for about $30. Easy to install with just a snap ring. The .75" Wilwood that was in my Coupe (from the kit) used Wilwood Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit 260-10514. If something more, e.g. the bore is damaged, a whole new MC is required.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
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Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Senior Member
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Moderator
There’s a reason I buy all the unwanted mc’s posted here! Been through a couple of failed ones - you need a spare on the shelf
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
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My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
There's a reason I changed my master cylinders from Wilwood to Tilton.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
rich grsc
The word is brake.
You always say what I'm thinking to myself Rick!
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Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
Mike.Bray
You always say what I'm thinking to myself Rick!
Wildwood
FF5
castor
breaks
tow in
Hildebrand
Feel free to add more
Jeff
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Tool Baron
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
Wildwood
FF5
castor
breaks
tow in
Hildebrand
Feel free to add more
Jeff
Picture Alblum
Frank
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
I will never forget My Buddy Paul.
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Senior Member
One of my 3 Wilwoods leaked, after taking it apart the bore in the cylinder had several voids, air in the casting. The had chewed up the seal.
Replaced it with a Tilton, world of difference in quality, bores are hard anodized, Wilwoods raw aluminum.
Mk 3.1 #6616 Complete Kit, July 2008 Start, Gromm Racing 347, TKO 500, IRS, Carmine Red / Wimbleton White
Mk 3.1 #6756 Complete Kit, May 2016 kit completion, Smeding Alum. 427 Stack Injection, TKO600, Custom Silver/Blue (SOLD)
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Sorry ….brake ……not break! I cleaned it up and it doesn’t seem to be leaking anymore. Is it best to rebuild or replace or just keep an eye on it? Is it possible this leak occurred just during priming? I’m not a fan of ignoring brake line leaks but I also don’t want to rip this apart if not necessary.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
zanman
Sorry ….brake ……not break! I cleaned it up and it doesn’t seem to be leaking anymore. Is it best to rebuild or replace or just keep an eye on it? Is it possible this leak occurred just during priming? I’m not a fan of ignoring brake line leaks but I also don’t want to rip this apart if not necessary.
If you think it's possible the leak may have come from a spill during the build (or whatever) then probably OK to go forward. But if it's really leaking, it's not likely to heal itself. During the build it's pretty easy, although a pain I know, to remove the MC and check it out. Way harder once the car is all together. Once you have the MC out, it's literally a single snap ring to pull out the piston, check the seals, etc. If in doubt, I'd be doing that.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.