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Thread: Break Master Cylinder Leak

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    Break Master Cylinder Leak

    Hi all - during my initial test drives I noticed a couple drops of break fluid dropping into my driver foot box. I isolated the leak to the rear MC (I have dual setup). I popped the rod boot off and sure enough it had fluid in it and also a strange white gunk. I included a pic for reference. Anyone ever see this and/or have any idea what I’m dealing with here?

    Thanks again for the tremendous support.

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    Senior Member F500guy's Avatar
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    The white gunk is grease, if you get fluid there in the boot, the seal is leaking or leaked when you first started. seems others have a shared experience in past posts.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Agree likely the front seal is leaking. I had one do that too on the front brake MC in my Coupe. Upon close examination, the seal had a defect. Probably when it was molded. If a Wilwood, they have rebuild kits that replace everything except the housing for about $30. Easy to install with just a snap ring. The .75" Wilwood that was in my Coupe (from the kit) used Wilwood Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit 260-10514. If something more, e.g. the bore is damaged, a whole new MC is required.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    The word is brake.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    There’s a reason I buy all the unwanted mc’s posted here! Been through a couple of failed ones - you need a spare on the shelf
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
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    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    There's a reason I changed my master cylinders from Wilwood to Tilton.
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    The word is brake.
    You always say what I'm thinking to myself Rick!
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

  10. #9
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Bray View Post
    You always say what I'm thinking to myself Rick!
    Wildwood
    FF5
    castor
    breaks
    tow in
    Hildebrand



    Feel free to add more



    Jeff

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    Tool Baron frankeeski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Wildwood
    FF5
    castor
    breaks
    tow in
    Hildebrand



    Feel free to add more



    Jeff
    Picture Alblum


    Frank
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  13. #11
    Senior Member SJDave's Avatar
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    One of my 3 Wilwoods leaked, after taking it apart the bore in the cylinder had several voids, air in the casting. The had chewed up the seal.

    Replaced it with a Tilton, world of difference in quality, bores are hard anodized, Wilwoods raw aluminum.
    Mk 3.1 #6616 Complete Kit, July 2008 Start, Gromm Racing 347, TKO 500, IRS, Carmine Red / Wimbleton White
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    Sorry ….brake ……not break! I cleaned it up and it doesn’t seem to be leaking anymore. Is it best to rebuild or replace or just keep an eye on it? Is it possible this leak occurred just during priming? I’m not a fan of ignoring brake line leaks but I also don’t want to rip this apart if not necessary.

  15. #13
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zanman View Post
    Sorry ….brake ……not break! I cleaned it up and it doesn’t seem to be leaking anymore. Is it best to rebuild or replace or just keep an eye on it? Is it possible this leak occurred just during priming? I’m not a fan of ignoring brake line leaks but I also don’t want to rip this apart if not necessary.
    If you think it's possible the leak may have come from a spill during the build (or whatever) then probably OK to go forward. But if it's really leaking, it's not likely to heal itself. During the build it's pretty easy, although a pain I know, to remove the MC and check it out. Way harder once the car is all together. Once you have the MC out, it's literally a single snap ring to pull out the piston, check the seals, etc. If in doubt, I'd be doing that.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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