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Thread: Coupe R Removable Nose

  1. #1
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    Coupe R Removable Nose

    Hello all!!,

    We received our Coupe R kit end of June last year and now have a drivable chassis!! We are building the car as a dedicated track car for time attack. Working on the body now and trying to get ready in the next 60 days or less to do our first track day. I did a search looking for ideas on a removable nose since it will not lift all the way up with the front splitter still attached. Has anyone done this or is it better/easier to remove the front splitter?? Any feedback is greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks

    Robert

  2. #2
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    For some reason I don't think it should be that difficult. But then "thinking" gets me in trouble all the time.

    Since the hood pivots there should be a way to make removable pins. Then there are the clamps on each side in the back and these only need to be released. These 4 places should be the only hard points. Then a connector on each side for the lights and you should be done.

    But then maybe I'm making it too easy.

    Jim
    2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
    2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.

  3. #3
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    Dark horse racing in Georgia is building one for the TransAm series and they permanently mounted the splitter to the chassis so the nose can be lifted off. A slick setup for a race car. Let me check with him and see if I can post pics.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim1855 View Post
    For some reason I don't think it should be that difficult. But then "thinking" gets me in trouble all the time.

    Since the hood pivots there should be a way to make removable pins. Then there are the clamps on each side in the back and these only need to be released. These 4 places should be the only hard points. Then a connector on each side for the lights and you should be done.

    But then maybe I'm making it too easy.

    Jim
    Thank you for the quick reply. We have been investigating this path but wanted to see if anyone had actually done it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rsnake View Post
    Dark horse racing in Georgia is building one for the TransAm series and they permanently mounted the splitter to the chassis so the nose can be lifted off. A slick setup for a race car. Let me check with him and see if I can post pics.
    If you can that would be awesome!! Thank you!!

  6. #6
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    Here are some photos of what they did.
    2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg
    Hope this helps.

  7. #7
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    On another note, they also enclosed the air duct from the nose to the radiator with no gaps for air to escape.
    My solid works research proved that this takes the coupe aero to another level compared to what we can do with the tilt hood.
    You can see this in photo 4. This car will be running 180+ mph on some of the long straights.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rsnake View Post
    On another note, they also enclosed the air duct from the nose to the radiator with no gaps for air to escape.
    My solid works research proved that this takes the coupe aero to another level compared to what we can do with the tilt hood.
    You can see this in photo 4. This car will be running 180+ mph on some of the long straights.
    Many, many thanks for this!!!

  9. #9
    Senior Member rhk118's Avatar
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    Here's a good link from jkrueger who fitted an R-type nose and custom splitter to his Gen 2. He made his removable to get in and out of a trailer using Dzus connectors. Here's a link to his post about it. Can't believe I remembered this post but hopefully it helps you!

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...a-Gen-II-coupe
    Last edited by rhk118; 03-04-2024 at 04:31 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhk118 View Post
    Here's a good link from jkrueger who fitted an R-type nose and custom splitter to his Gen 2. He made his removable to get in and out of a trailer using Dzus connectors. Here's a link to his post about it. Can't believe I remembered this post but hopefully it helps you!

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...a-Gen-II-coupe
    Thank you!! This is awesome!!

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  12. #11
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    What I did in the pictures - a combination of four dzus fasteners and two quick-release pins.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ight=aero+nose

    https://www.grainger.com/product/Qui...riginal=410K32

    Dave
    Gen III #17
    20,500+ miles...

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  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tabor View Post
    What I did in the pictures - a combination of four dzus fasteners and two quick-release pins.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ight=aero+nose

    https://www.grainger.com/product/Qui...riginal=410K32

    Dave
    Gen III #17
    20,500+ miles...
    So you are removing the splitter/splitter dam and not the entire nose correct?? Then lifting the nose to acces the engine compartment??

    Thank you, by the way, for posting this!! Great looking car and nice video!!

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RPMG View Post
    So you are removing the splitter/splitter dam and not the entire nose correct?? Then lifting the nose to acces the engine compartment??

    Thank you, by the way, for posting this!! Great looking car and nice video!!
    Correct - I remove the air dam and then tilt the nose as usual.

    I'm no longer running the splitter and without it I can tilt the nose forward enough to do most work/inspections, etc.

    Attached are some more pics - I had some plates made from aluminum to reinforce the quick-release pin connections.

    You may also consider doing some sort of nose hold-down pin setup if you stick with the tilt hinges.

    If I had a second nose to play with, I'd consider cutting out a center section/hood like the roadster - held in by 4 pins. Team in Asia did this:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2rZEpACLAw

    Dave
    Gen III #17
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tabor View Post
    Correct - I remove the air dam and then tilt the nose as usual.

    I'm no longer running the splitter and without it I can tilt the nose forward enough to do most work/inspections, etc.

    Attached are some more pics - I had some plates made from aluminum to reinforce the quick-release pin connections.

    You may also consider doing some sort of nose hold-down pin setup if you stick with the tilt hinges.

    If I had a second nose to play with, I'd consider cutting out a center section/hood like the roadster - held in by 4 pins. Team in Asia did this:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2rZEpACLAw

    Dave
    Gen III #17
    Many thanks for these pics!! I had not thought of that pin placement.

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