Brian's Jersey Shore Cruising Car - Page 160

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Hello. As an introduction, my name is Brian and I would like to start posting a build thread as others have done here to help me document my process through the project.

I actually have very minimal experience working on vehicles in my past. I did attend the build school in order to help with the confidence of taking on such an endeavor.

I am also going to try and stick as much to the book as possible in order to keep organized and hopefully on the right track which is why I am actually posting and will continue to change my title with the page numbers of my current position in the manual.

I just wanted to get this intro out there and started so that I can hopefully continue to post incrementally as I have already ordered the kit, received the delivery and started the work but I will try and catch back up with posts in the correct order.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Order Summary

Complete Kit Roadster MK4

Notable Options:
302/351W Mounts
Installing Manual Clutch Release
Headers: 302 stainless steel 4-port
Uncoated/Bare Side Exhaust
2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit
Front & Rear IRS Shocks
2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
31 spline driveshaft for small 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission
Power steering kit
Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style GPS Gauges
Upgrade: Diamond Stitched Leather Seats
Powder coated chassis – Black
Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear & Mickey Thompson Tires, 245/40R18 Front and 295/35R18 Rear
14” Wood Steering Wheel
Mk4 Body with Cut-Outs
Vinyl Dash with Glovebox molded
Wind Wings
Brake Duct Wire Mesh
Over-Rider Kit
Floor Mats
EFI In-Tank Fuel System
Roll Bar Grommets
Heater-Defroster
Seat Track
Diamond Stitch Door Panel
Assembled Side Louvers

I think that summarizes the main items but I could have missed something in there.

Plus there are some additional items that I still need to order.

[BUDFIVE]

Welcome and good luck—it’s a fun ride..

[MPTech]

Good Luck! Sounds like a good plan. It will be a nice build

[Rockman]

Good luck with the build!

I finished my MK4 with very similar options in 2022 and I am just down the road off Route 70 in Manchester.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Good luck with the build!

I finished my MK4 with very similar options in 2022 and I am just down the road off Route 70 in Manchester.

Hello. Thanks for the reply. That is great to hear.

Would love to hear more about the process with New Jersey as well. We are not far from each other at all.

I have looked into where the Cobra Breakfast people meet in the past but haven't had an opportunity yet to join.

[Rockman]

This Sunday, 3/10, is a NJ/PA Cobras breakfast at:

Time to Eat Diner
270 US-202 North
Bridgewater, New Jersey
(908) 704-9221

We sit for breakfast at 9:00, so most arrive around 8:30 to 8:45. The weather forecast is for rain early Sunday so I will probably not attend.

[RandyNJ]

The Cobra breakfast club is a great group of guys. I started attending their get togethers about a year ago. Picked up a used MK3 late last year, still working out the bugs.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

This Sunday, 3/10, is a NJ/PA Cobras breakfast at:

Time to Eat Diner
270 US-202 North
Bridgewater, New Jersey
(908) 704-9221

We sit for breakfast at 9:00, so most arrive around 8:30 to 8:45. The weather forecast is for rain early Sunday so I will probably not attend.

Hello. Thanks so much for that information.

I had found a post where they share that information as well but unfortunately this past weekend did not work out for me. But I do hope to join there one day even during my build process.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

The Cobra breakfast club is a great group of guys. I started attending their get togethers about a year ago. Picked up a used MK3 late last year, still working out the bugs.

Hello. Thanks for reaching out.

That is nice to hear. I look forward to being able to attend sometime soon as well.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 49

As it started out, I was able to do much of this first section on the front end of the car.

PXL_20240211_190451722.jpg

PXL_20240213_012831659.MP.jpg

With that being said, everything went along smoothly as I remember from the build school.

I did end up with some extra parts though.

First was easy as these were just some extra spacer washers for the Lower Control Arm as I only used (1) on each side but was supplied with (4) total so I had (2) extras.

PXL_20240306_215314300.jpg

The next ones were (2) Snap Rings that I believe are for putting the boot on the Lower Control Arm but my particular part from Factory Five already came with the boot attachment seen in the picture so guess that I never had anything to install it to.

PXL_20240306_215326394.jpg

Then we had these (4) 12 Point Bolts that came with the Spindle but I believe that these might be for the standard brakes install, while I had ordered the Wilwood Brake Package.

PXL_20240306_215342408.jpg

Otherwise, at the Build School, they spoke about installing the Steering Rack out of order at this time. So I did that as we have the Power Steering.

PXL_20240211_190457180.jpg

Got that all in to place but again came across an extra Nut in the package with the Cotter Pins. I saw in the Manual that it mentions if the Tie Rod has a Locknut instead of a Castle Nut but ours had a Castle Nut so maybe that is what it was from as I have (2) of those.

PXL_20240306_215356715.jpg

And that was pretty much it from our first go at it.

1. I was unsure though if you grease all fittings later in the build as it does not seem to mention that?
2. When putting together the Coil-Over Shocks it talks about starting the Set Screw but no mention of actually tightening that down yet and not sure if that happens later in the build as well?

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 58

So for the next step in the process, we went after tackling the Front Wilwood Brake Option. This came along with a couple hiccups.

The first of these had to do with putting the Rotor and the Hat together. We were going along putting each bolt in and using the Red Loctite but all of a sudden one of the bolts did not want to cooperate and actually snapped before even getting to the point of getting torqued down.

20240301_124423-COLLAGE.jpg

Thankfully, we were able to extract the remaining portion of the bolt with the help of a local shop, even with the Red Loctite and then got a new bolt to place in there.

Then next, I had no idea that I was supposed to have Safety Wire or a Safety Wire Pliers, so I had to order those from Amazon after travelling to every store around looking for it with no luck.

PXL_20240303_193419806.jpg

So those two things set us back a week but then we got back on track with the Safety Wire and installing the Rotors and Calipers.

PXL_20240302_205901201.jpg

But then I had posted to the Main Forum to ask a question about the Red Loctite for the Brake Caliper Bracket because I noticed that you have to remove the Caliper in order to change the Brake Pads but was advised either to just use the Red Loctite or get the Orange Permatex which is stronger than Blue Loctite but does not require heat to remove.

PXL_20240302_205922594.MP.jpg

So after getting all of that in order, we tried with the wheels.

PXL_20240302_211029338.jpg

And then started to joke around that we were 50% done with the build now that we have (2) of the (4) tires on.

PXL_20240310_220447296.jpg

[Mike.Bray]

Page 49

As it started out, I was able to do much of this first section on the front end of the car.

PXL_20240211_190451722.jpg

PXL_20240213_012831659.MP.jpg

You're going to need to shorten the rear tube on the upper A-arm to get the proper caster for power steering. Jeff will probably jump in here with his copyrighted dimension sketch for you.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

You're going to need to shorten the rear tube on the upper A-arm to get the proper caster for power steering. Jeff will probably jump in here with his copyrighted dimension sketch for you.

Hey. Thanks so much for the heads up.

I just took a look at the measurements again after you mentioned this. I guess I wasn't paying enough attention to the "Rough Alignment" because I had figured that I would at some point have to bring it to an actual alignment shop in order to get everything that I had done correct.

But I see now that it appears as I have reduced the rear down to the absolute minimum, that it would not even allow for much adjustment at a professional shop.

So I assume that doing the shortening of the rear tube is to allow for that extra adjustment ability?

[jts359]

Hi , We drove our MKII to the Atlantic Sea food restaurant on Channel drive a couple weeks ago , Their Tuna bites are great , I'm in Beachwood if you need a hand . Ed

[Mike.Bray]

But I see now that it appears as I have reduced the rear down to the absolute minimum, that it would not even allow for much adjustment at a professional shop.

So I assume that doing the shortening of the rear tube is to allow for that extra adjustment ability?

You won't be able to get to 7-8 degrees caster without reducing the length of the rear tube on the upper A-arm.

If you machine the round bosses back to the hex on both ends that should get you there. So from memory you will be taking about 3/16-1/4" off each end.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Hi , We drove our MKII to the Atlantic Sea food restaurant on Channel drive a couple weeks ago , Their Tuna bites are great , I'm in Beachwood if you need a hand . Ed

Hello. Thanks so much for reaching out.

Yes the Atlantic Offshore Fishery has amazing Tuna Bites. We have had those multiple times. Also not a bad Lobster Roll.

I really do appreciate it and will be sure to reach out. I still have to go through all the information that I have collected about New Jersey specific rules.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

You won't be able to get to 7-8 degrees caster without reducing the length of the rear tube on the upper A-arm.

If you machine the round bosses back to the hex on both ends that should get you there. So from memory you will be taking about 3/16-1/4" off each end.

Thank you so much. That information is greatly appreciated.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 112

A couple of weeks ago I was actually able to get some work on the back end Independent Rear Suspension but then came to a little bit of mis-match parts issue.

First, with the help of a neighbors scissor jack, the Center Section went in very nicely.

PXL_20240306_215458187.jpg

Then was able to put together many of the main arms and links.

PXL_20240310_220531668.jpg

You can even see the very official looking bungee cord attachment for the toe link.

PXL_20240310_220552282.jpg

Of course the bungee on the other side could not be matching.

PXL_20240310_220609690.jpg

So what seemed to be the issue is that I had these extra parts with (2) larger M16-20 x 110MM bolts and then (2) M14x2.0 flange nuts as well as (2) Left Hand Jam Nuts.

PXL_20240312_013049602.jpg

Reached out to Factory Five and they were able to send me over the ones that we needed so were able to wrap that up the following week.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 116

Just this past weekend, were able to finish off the rear end components starting with putting on the Wilwood Brakes.

PXL_20240407_223101688.jpg

Then got everything aligned and Loctite applied.

PXL_20240407_223109880.jpg

From there it was putting on the wheels to check for all clearance okay.

PXL_20240407_223145101.jpg

The outside looks good as well.

PXL_20240407_223153885.jpg

Then began to route the E-Brake wires up and over.

PXL_20240407_223751992.jpg

But then I stopped with the attachment through the frame because at the Build School, they had said that in New Jersey the E-Brake line cannot go below the main frame tube like the instructions.

PXL_20240407_223806763.jpg

So I am going to attempt the edwardb Modification when I get to the point of putting together the E-Brake Handle.

PXL_20240409_232705255.jpg

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 127

While I was waiting for some of the parts, I did get some work done on the Pedal Assembly.

PXL_20240409_232542580.jpg

I really did not know where I was supposed to find these Button Head Screws mentioned in the Manual.

PXL_20240316_203607618.jpg

So I ended up going to the big fastener bag.

PXL_20240316_203543980.jpg

Grabbed these Buttom (Haha) Heads. Not sure if they are for something else.

PXL_20240316_203555038.MP.jpg

And then used these to secure because I had not found these anywhere else either.

PXL_20240316_203548167.jpg

And then came the next stop as I had ordered with my kit the Manual Clutch Option. But when looking at my notes from the Build School, they mentioned that the BluePrint Engines which I was planning on using would utilize a Hydraulic Clutch Option.

PXL_20240409_232548894.jpg

So I placed an order with Factory Five for the Hydraulic Clutch materials as well as a 2nd reservoir for the brakes and a Windshield Wiper Kit and that is all on the way.

[F500guy]

I still have trouble figuring out where the hardware is, some come an assembly kit with the bits some don't and I am collecting a bunch of parts because 1/2 the time I just go to ACE and get what I need for the item, can never seem to find the correct ones or sometimes want a different screw/bolt/nut/washer....

[SuperFlyBriBri]

I still have trouble figuring out where the hardware is, some come an assembly kit with the bits some don't and I am collecting a bunch of parts because 1/2 the time I just go to ACE and get what I need for the item, can never seem to find the correct ones or sometimes want a different screw/bolt/nut/washer....

Yes this seems to be very true as I have found some in the box that I am working on while I end up having to grab other from an alternate location.

I just hope that I am using the right ones and like you said, if I need to go to the store to grab some extras, I have no problem doing that as long as I have the right ones for the job.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 138

Some of the extra parts that I had ordered from Factory Five have arrived so was able to finish up some of the Pedal Assembly.

One of the things that had come from the Build School was not to cut down the master cylinders, but I do not remember why.

Was unsure about how much to screw in the elbow fittings at the back of the cylinders? I had seen another post that talked about cracking the cylinder because it is a tapered fitting?

PXL_20240413_185252145.jpg

Also still need to adjust the balance bar.

PXL_20240413_184432388.MP.jpg

Had trouble finding the hardware that matched the manual. These were listed as the correct size but they just appear different in the manual.

PXL_20240413_185311465.jpg

And then once the accelerator pedal is attached, it appears in the manual installed in different orientations with both the upper arm on the left as well as on the right and bent.

PXL_20240413_185301056.jpg

So then this is what it all looks like now together.

[SuperFlyBriBri]

Page 160

Per the Build School experience, the steering rack was already installed earlier with the other work on the front end.

PXL_20240421_203956500.MP.jpg

So the manual talks about installing this on the engine side.

PXL_20240421_204030913.MP.jpg

And then it specifically talks about where the steering shaft should align.

PXL_20240421_203452065.jpg

But after installing everything, it just would not align so went to the forum for some tips on installing with the power steering rack.

PXL_20240421_203501619.MP.jpg

And now we have the flange bearing mounted on the inside face of the footbox with the same orientation for the set screw flange.

PXL_20240421_203507452.jpg

But then on the interior, because of the pedal box bracket, we have this installed slightly askew.

PXL_20240421_203516117.jpg

And then working our way up to the top pillow block, not sure yet if washers should be used to raise the steering wheel for comfort while driving.

PXL_20240421_203523646.jpg

So might just not fasten this down yet.