Coyote install question

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Hi all. My father is coming in a week and a half and I would love to put the engine in with him.

What must I make sure to complete before doing so?

Things already done:
- forward battery mount (no wiring mods for it)
- brake lines
- fuel lines
- rear harness wiring (got the other harnesses through the firewall but that’s it)
- foot boxes (minus outside panel and DS top)
- use whatever hardware came with the FFR headers?

Thank you!

[Alan_C]

Anything you would not be able to access with the engine in needs to be done first unless you are prepared to remove it. When I built my MK4, I waited long into the build to install my 4.6L DOHC engine which is the same width as the Coyote. I felt fortunate it was one and done for me. The engine went in and has never come out in the 11 years the car has been on the road. Although not traditional, the modular motors are great in the Cobras. Better are the all aluminum block engines like my 4.6L DOHC and the Coyote. If you have not thought about aftermarket side pipes, get the GasN polished SS side pipes. Not cheap, but better quality, looks, and sound make the upgrade more than worth it. I had CAT/J-pipes on mine and together with the GasN side pipes the car sounded great and not really any different from a SBF. Good luck on the install.
I assume you are changing the oil pan and possibly the oil filter mount. Make sure these are done and install the oil pressure and water temp sending units for your gauges.

[Stangarang]

Any inulating/sound deadening should be done ahead. As well as the computer location.
Michael

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Thank you. Some answers to your questions:
- I got the Coyote from FFR, so the oil pain and filter mods are already done
- I was told the oil pressure and water temp sending units can be easily done with the engine in place
- the only insulation in the engine bay will be wrapping the headers with titanium wrap
- computer location is set
- I do have GASN sidepipes (black)

Anything else?

[Stangarang]

Thank you. Some answers to your questions:
- I got the Coyote from FFR, so the oil pain and filter mods are already done
- I was told the oil pressure and water temp sending units can be easily done with the engine in place
- the only insulation in the engine bay will be wrapping the headers with titanium wrap
- computer location is set
- I do have GASN sidepipes (black)

Anything else?

Looks like you should be set. The alternator has to be removed to get the headers on though.
Michael

[Indy Shu]

Do the sending units. It doesn’t take long and much easier now. Determine where your ground(s) will attach and prepare them as you may want to do some drilling. There’s just not much room after the engine goes in.

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Ah yes, engine grounds. Good point!

the dolly the engine is on does not allow for sending unit install as it’s in the way. Maybe I’ll hoist the engine, install the sending units, and then drop in car.

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Looks like you should be set. The alternator has to be removed to get the headers on though.
Michael

Thank you, I had no idea.

[Al_C]

Are you running power steering? If no, ignore this reply. If yes, check the pulley on the pump and ensure it is in line with the drive pulley on the crankshaft. It is much easier to get the pulleys lined up when the engine is out. Hopefully, everything will be correct, but you never know... Ask me how I know.

[michael everson]

I've never had to remove the alternator to install the header.
Mike

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Are you running power steering? If no, ignore this reply. If yes, check the pulley on the pump and ensure it is in line with the drive pulley on the crankshaft. It is much easier to get the pulleys lined up when the engine is out. Hopefully, everything will be correct, but you never know... Ask me how I know.

Thank you, I made sure it was lined up. ��

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

I've never had to remove the alternator to install the header.
Mike

Excellent. It’ll make life much easier. Thank you, Mike.

[facultyofmusic]

Congrats on getting this far! Sounds like the perfect father & son activity (I'm definitely jealous)!

I documented my engine install process here with some tools that came in really handy and some points of caution. Give it a read if you have a moment. Since you got your engine from FFR you very likely have their engine lift brackets and chain. I ran into an issue where I couldn't back out the bolts on the engine brackets after engine install and had to cut out the bolts. More details here.

Have fun!

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Excellent write ups! I just read through them both and will re-read them again. I will start by cutting that bolt shorter.

And I am also going to read your wiring posts.

[Tooth]

Only thing that is a pita is the headers. Definitely put the sending units in, but you can still reach them in the car. I did not remove my alternator.

Things I messed up that caused some extra time that day:

Put my engine mounts on backwards.

Couldn't find my transmission mounts.

Other than that it wasn't bad.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Make sure that you disassemble the motor mounts and install the FFR spacers.

Jeff

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

I will confirm the engine mounts aren’t backwards, I wasn’t 100% sure.
Spacers installed.

[cdurbin328]

I did mine by myself and there really wasn't much to it. You can access most anything with the body off the car.

[runamuk]

Make sure to install the drive shaft with the engine/transmission.

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

That's actually one of a couple of questions I have.

What/when is the easiest way to install the driveshaft? The manual has just one sentence regarding the driveshaft, not very useful. The adapter plate and trans A frame support are already installed. Seems like the driveshaft angle is not an issue for IRS?

Second, I'm confused about one thing. The rubber piece at the end of the transmission, seems like I can remove it or leave it. If I remove it, I need to make sure not to damage the rear seal. Where is this seal? How do I protect the seal?

I have a Gen 3 and TKX from FFR.

Thank you!

[edwardb]

That's actually one of a couple of questions I have.

What/when is the easiest way to install the driveshaft? The manual has just one sentence regarding the driveshaft, not very useful. The adapter plate and trans A frame support are already installed. Seems like the driveshaft angle is not an issue for IRS?

Second, I'm confused about one thing. The rubber piece at the end of the transmission, seems like I can remove it or leave it. If I remove it, I need to make sure not to damage the rear seal. Where is this seal? How do I protect the seal?

I have a Gen 3 and TKX from FFR.

Thank you!

You should be able to install the driveshaft after the engine/trans is installed. Takes some jockeying around to get the proper angle, but the slip joint should go in and then swing up to the diff. Seems like a number have posted recently about having to take additional measures. Hasn't been my experience if the driveshaft is the right size. I personally add the A-frame after everything is in. It's just one more thing to get in the way as you're installing the engine. And it's not hard to add. But lots of guys put it in first. Your choice.

Some Tremec transmissions have a plug that needs to be removed. I haven't done a TKX. But TKO did. T-56 didn't. Supposedly it can be left in and pushed forward when the driveshaft is installed. Personally, I'd remove it. Don't confuse though with the rubber ring on the end of the transmission. That's meant to stay. Be careful to not damage it. Not hard if you're reasonably careful.

You shouldn't have an issue with pinion angle. But still need to check it. You will almost for sure need a spacer between the transmission and the rear mount. My experience has been about 3/4" is required.

[Mat1asBEV&ICE]

Thank you, Paul. Since I am going to install the headers just before the engine is resting on its mounts (per your and other's recommendation), I think I will try installing the driveshaft at this time as well.

This rubber piece that I am holding is the part that can be removed, correct?
IMG_2189 copy.jpg

[edwardb]

Thank you, Paul. Since I am going to install the headers just before the engine is resting on its mounts (per your and other's recommendation), I think I will try installing the driveshaft at this time as well.

This rubber piece that I am holding is the part that can be removed, correct?
IMG_2189 copy.jpg

Correct. The outer ring remains.

[Lidodrip]

I have a TKX and I would second removing the rubber plug. Like Paul, I installed the drive shaft after the engine/transmission was installed. I struggled for quite a while until I realized that the plug came out and was different than the seal. Once the plug was out, things got much better.

James