After Market Ignition Switch-Beware Update!!

[F500guy]

So I decided to go for an aftermarket ignition switch, but there was some issues along the way, so I thought I would share and maybe save someone the grief I had to deal with. I was not super excited about the kit provided switch, not very nice with the cast metal metal parts. Worked great for testing but I wanted a little better looking piece in the dash. I went with a mustang replacement from the mid 60's that are available at multiple places. As I mentioned in my build post, everything seemed great until I went to install it in the dash. The cylinder would not seat in the switch and I ended up destroying the original cylinder trying to get it to work. There was a review at the web site that someone else had this issue, so not just me. The tolerance of the bezel is not great and the spring force causes the switch to push back in the dash to far so that the cylinder will not seat properly. This also caused issues with the hole I cut in the dash due to the force I was using trying to get it installed, damaged the little area that is supposed to stabilize the bezel and keep from rotating. I also noticed that the bezel was damaging the carbon fiber and creating scratches around the hole. I also noted that the back side of the dash where I located the switch was not completely flat. I got it to function, but a lot of trouble along the way.

Resolution:
1) I ground a bit of the back side of the dash to make a flat area for the backing ring
2) Cut the spring to reduce the pressure that forces the switch back in the dash
3) Repaired my original hole with some epoxy filler, I plan to put a dab of epoxy on the back side if the bezel to permanently install it in the dash-this should never need to be pulled out of the dash.
4) I found some manufacturing remnants on the back side of the bezel that needed to be filed off flush-due this first to reduce scratching
5) cleaned up the cylinder retainer ring that engages the switch and added more grease to ensure it will function smoother
6) color in the scratches, they are pretty minor and no one else would notice unless they looked closely, could have ended worse.
P3090021.JPG

[mrglaeser]

The Mustang Ignition does look nice, but it adds a lot of time to get it wired and installed compared to the Kit parts. In Mustangs they are installed into a steel stamped lower Dash that is pretty robust. I installed the switch with the dash off being careful to hold the canister in place by hand. It was a PIA and I practiced putting together the parts a dozen times outside of the dash. Also I would suggest watching the normal mustang install video as the mechanism has some tricks to it. You need to pre line up the rotating assembly in the canister so when you insert the locking cylinder it all lines up.

[F500guy]

I did all that as well, and it physically would not fit when assembled in the dash, just a warning, some may work fine, but some may not.

[mrglaeser]

I did all that as well, and it physically would not fit when assembled in the dash, just a warning, some may work fine, but some may not.

Totally get it. Mine Barely worked with Aluminum Vinyl wrapped dash. I wish I had thought of cutting the spring down a bit.

[Lidodrip]

I used the same type of ignition switch with the carbon fiber dash and didn't have a problem. The one I used was made by ACP - not sure if brand makes a difference or I happened to just get lucky. I did sand down the back to make everything flush/fit better.

James

[F500guy]

I thought I would post an update to this as , well I still was dis-satisfied after working over the switch. It still would stick in "start" and not be very "snappy". Thanks To James's post about ACP, went on a buying splurge and purchased 2 new bezels form across the web as well as another ignition switch. One Bezel was from ACP, the ignition switch was also a different packaging or manufacture.
IGN Bezel.JPG

I found the spring in the second switch to be approximately what I had cut down in the original switch I received, so no standard there.

I measured the Bezel setback that ignition switch nubs would ride in. And, surprised-Not really, they are all a bit different. The largest difference was between the ACP and no-name brand and it was about (.8 mm).

So, I Used the ACP Bezel and the new switch and wow, what a difference, key slides right in and actually works perfectly. So a little more epoxy and I now have a working key that looks great!

[Lidodrip]

Glad it worked out! I also used the ACP headlight switch/knob/bezel and the ACP wiper knob/bezel (with the Specialty Power Windows wiper switch) - all seem to be high quality parts, work great and have a nice vintage look/feel.

James